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That is not true. The wattage needed to close the contact on the relay is so low that the VA rating for CE certification is well within limits. The load for the pump is on a separate circuit than the load to actuate the relay.

The float switch I linked above is rated for .28 Amperes (resistive) or 30 VA Nominal @ 120VAC, and it's not even close to that to actuate the relay coil. (the coil is 11mA)


Do you have any specs the float we use 12v, is rated for 120v ?

I don't know what , 30 VA SPST means, but 120V sounds like a stretch

But I would not gamble my system with those thin wires and 120 v on decades worth of growth and thousands in livestock

Do as you wish most of us wont, and will not recommend such.
 
Do you have any specs the float we use 12v, is rated for 120v ?

I don't know what , 30 VA SPST means, but 120V sounds like a stretch

But I would not gamble my system with those thin wires and 120 v on decades worth of growth and thousands in livestock

Do as you wish most of us wont, and will not recommend such.

30VA SPST is rated at 120VAC. Meaning a .28Amp draw at 120 Volts. This is max. Since the Coil on the contactor is 11mA to actuate, that is a .011Amp draw at 120VAC.

The wires on these floats are about 22 to 20 Gauge wire (typically) has an Ampacity of about 3 Amps Max, and with a .011 Amp draw for the float switch, that is .003% of the wire's capacity.

Mostly, you are using two plugs because of your personal preference and I can accept that.

But don't mislead newcomers into the idea that it is unsafe, because it is not.

I have had these installed on a much larger investment for a longer period of time, and in that period of time have even dealt with one of the float switches (not the relay) failing and shorting into the water for 3 days. Contrary to what you might think, no harmful effects were had on the tank inhabitants or me when I touched the circuit without knowing of the failure.
 
But don't mislead newcomers into the idea that it is unsafe, because it is not.


Sorry but I will.

It is unsafe. The whole purpose here is to have as few 120v wires going into your tank as possible to reduce the risk of total loss.

In 300G capacity I may have over 20 plugs connected to breakers, but only 2 120v wires going into the water. Heater and one powerhead.

Neither have thin barely insulated wires like these floats.

Its not right to recommend using 120V with those small exposed float wires. That is who no credible aquarium shop sells your 120v option
 
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