automatic water change
- Thread starter DRThompson
- Start date
Sacohen
New member
Ok I started the thread.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=22342649#post22342649
Lee I know you have a list of things in that mind of yours.
Let's see what come up.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=22342649#post22342649
Lee I know you have a list of things in that mind of yours.
Let's see what come up.
I asked the seller to defer the shipping since we were away. Have to see if I can find some tracking info...
Can I use 1/4" drip irrigation line for the long runs? Amazon has 100' roll for under $8. I need to run 3 lines and at least a cat-5.
I'm thinking of setting up another RA at the mixing station to control a solenoid to my RO/DI (backed up by the float valve) use that to automate the fill/mixing process. Multi-level water level sensor to watch both barrels. And a salinity module to control the exact SG of the make up water. The challenge will be how to get two RAs to talk to each other.
I decided I will not use the ATO water usage to drive the AWC. I'll save the extra head for QT tank or Frag tank when the time comes. Once I get this working, I'll pick up another pump to refill the ATO. But want to get the lines run the first time.
Sacohen
New member
You don't have a salinity probe on the tank already?
Roberto told me the unit is only capable of handling 1 salinity probe, but if there was a way to have 2 RA's talk to each other that's a different story.
1/4" drip line should not be a problem.
I went with 3/8 in. O.D. x 1/4 in. I.D. x 20 ft. PVC Tubing from HD for $4.44.
Roberto told me the unit is only capable of handling 1 salinity probe, but if there was a way to have 2 RA's talk to each other that's a different story.
1/4" drip line should not be a problem.
I went with 3/8 in. O.D. x 1/4 in. I.D. x 20 ft. PVC Tubing from HD for $4.44.
automatic water change
I don't have a salinity module today. Don't really need one. My salinity doesn't really budge and I check it during WC... Lol that will have to change..
i'll let my one day future mindstream take care of that
The other thing is that my ATO is gravity based so I wouldn't be able to DO anything except send an alarm
My runs are probably going to be like 100' possibly even longer...have to do some geometry...
I don't have a salinity module today. Don't really need one. My salinity doesn't really budge and I check it during WC... Lol that will have to change..
i'll let my one day future mindstream take care of that The other thing is that my ATO is gravity based so I wouldn't be able to DO anything except send an alarm
My runs are probably going to be like 100' possibly even longer...have to do some geometry...
All I'm using is 1/4" ice maker/RO tubing from Home Depot connected to the pump with drip irrigation hose barbs, leak free even without zip ties so far in testing.
Our pumps came with the (A60-G) non-food grade tubing:http://www.masterflex.com/Product/Masterflex_Norprene_tubing_A60_G_L_S_16_50_ft/HV-06404-16
I'll be ordering the food grade stuff though not that the FDA approval probably means much for reef keeping but why risk it for saving a few cents per foot of tubing. (A60-F):
http://www.masterflex.com/Product/Masterflex_Norprene_Food_tubing_A60_F_L_S_16_50_ft/HV-06402-16
I did find tubing cheaper on US plastics but I'm not absolutely sure it's the right size, probably, but it's only a little cheaper per foot, though, you can buy 10' instead of 50'....... I figure I'll re-sell the extra.
It also seems to matter how long the runs are on this pump setup (or the tubing is just more worn on one head) as the longer tubing run pumps slower in my test so far, just a few oz per gallon by eye ball, but enough I need to test further before setting up the AWC. I'll check again tomorrow night with equal tubing runs.
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So the masterflex tubing is for the heads or you using it for the full run? Thats pretty pricey to use for the full runs...I would only need a few feet to use on the heads and then go to the ro lines for the rest of the trip. Lmk if you have enough extra and I can share some of the cost.
I have quite a distance to travel, hope this doesn't cause an issue for me. Just mailed the seller asking for some tracking info.
I have quite a distance to travel, hope this doesn't cause an issue for me. Just mailed the seller asking for some tracking info.
No, just for the heads, cheap 1/4" RO/DI (icemaker) tubing from the hardware store for the runs.
Doh, just tried to place pump head tubing order and the pesky web site wont run any of my cards, GRRRRR
I'll have to call them tomorrow I guess,, the delays are killing me, LOL!
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New tubing came in today and I've got it installed in the pumps. I have discovered a similar issue to what Sacohen has experienced with certain supplies now working better than others. Just kind of sits there under a cold start with the new tubing, after a kick start though it will start back up fine, slowly at first then normal.
I need to contact Ametek/Pittman to get the exact specs on the motor and gear assembly as I cant find them online (older model I guess)
Fiddling around with this should keep me occupied and distracted from doing anything else productive this weekend :lolspin:
If anyone needs some of the tubing I bought shoot me a PM I have some to spare.
I need to contact Ametek/Pittman to get the exact specs on the motor and gear assembly as I cant find them online (older model I guess)
Fiddling around with this should keep me occupied and distracted from doing anything else productive this weekend :lolspin:
If anyone needs some of the tubing I bought shoot me a PM I have some to spare.
Just an update, they will keep coming as I've got nothing better to do tonight, I'ts freaking cold here (33 degrees), well light jacket weather anyway
Pump @ 24v with new tubing moves water very accurately (I thing the tubing install matters as someone else pointed out) three heads pumped as follows over 30 min (+/- 10ml):
1980 ml
2030 ml
1989 ml
Close enough! Now just need to toy around with the start up issue. Perhaps the tubing just needs to "break in" a little bit, otherwise I may have to rethink my idea of changing water to my frag tank with the third head and just use a separate pump setup for the frag tank anyway I'll be doing my first automatic water change tonight! (from and into 5gal buckets only 2 heads, but still it'll be working at least, still waiting on the float switches for un attended use)
Off to figure out an intake strainer for the sump.
Pump @ 24v with new tubing moves water very accurately (I thing the tubing install matters as someone else pointed out) three heads pumped as follows over 30 min (+/- 10ml):
1980 ml
2030 ml
1989 ml
Close enough! Now just need to toy around with the start up issue. Perhaps the tubing just needs to "break in" a little bit, otherwise I may have to rethink my idea of changing water to my frag tank with the third head and just use a separate pump setup for the frag tank anyway I'll be doing my first automatic water change tonight! (from and into 5gal buckets only 2 heads, but still it'll be working at least, still waiting on the float switches for un attended use)
Off to figure out an intake strainer for the sump.
I have not yet, they have wired leads, red and black, and I'm a little afraid to try as it could damage things on some motors, I'm waiting to get the manufacture specs before doing anything experimental to the motor.
I'm pretty sure it's just a startup torque issue, maybe just because the motors are old and have probably been run close to their normal useful life. They were made back in 2006 assuming I'm reading the date code on the motor correctly.
Not worried about the motor, just if there were some electronics under the cap that might matter. Probably not, but doesn't hurt to wait till Monday to call the manufacturer
Only a bit concerned about it as some of the DC pump motors I've been researching lately explicitly state that they can be damaged by hooking up the polarity in reverse.......
The motor model number should be fine either way but I've not been able to identify what the suffix on the end of the model number indicates in this case. Some have encoders and what not that could be damaged. Model is Pittman/Ametek GM9236E816 24vDC
I've found hundreds of variations on the Ametek 9236 motor with all kinds of different specifications E816 would suggest possibly an encoder of some sort but I've not been able to find anything yet.
I'ts been said I over think things but hey, better safe.....
The motor model number should be fine either way but I've not been able to identify what the suffix on the end of the model number indicates in this case. Some have encoders and what not that could be damaged. Model is Pittman/Ametek GM9236E816 24vDC
I've found hundreds of variations on the Ametek 9236 motor with all kinds of different specifications E816 would suggest possibly an encoder of some sort but I've not been able to find anything yet.
I'ts been said I over think things but hey, better safe.....
Sacohen
New member
I think I may have found the right PW for my motor.
Its 12V 2amp this has started fast and strong every time I've tried it so far.
The other 12v 2 amp tried would turn it every time, but it barely turned.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/WrDgfVNdHuY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I'll check it out over the next couple of days.
Its 12V 2amp this has started fast and strong every time I've tried it so far.
The other 12v 2 amp tried would turn it every time, but it barely turned.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/WrDgfVNdHuY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I'll check it out over the next couple of days.
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