B-Ionic
- Thread starter michael_cb_125
- Start date
Tweaking it in what way?
Changing doses of B-ionic won't impact algae, but IMO it negates the primary advantage of a two part system, which is that you do not need to constantly monitor everything to keep things just fine (assuming that salt mixes used for water changes are not skewing things up or down).
For example, if you start off at appropriate levels of calcium, magnesium, and alkalinity, and dose B-ionic or other two parts to maintain alkalinity, then calcium and magnesium will follow along with little concern or measurement, at least for a substantial period of time.
But if you start using uneven doses, you'll have to measure constantly, and while that sounds best, it really turns out to not be, and folks end up on a roller coaters of elevated and depleted levels of things, they run the risks of kits not giving appropriate answers, etc.
So in general, I really think it is best to stick to equal parts of daily dosing unless calcium actually rises above reasonable levels, or falls below them (say, 380-500 ppm).
For example, if you start off at appropriate levels of calcium, magnesium, and alkalinity, and dose B-ionic or other two parts to maintain alkalinity, then calcium and magnesium will follow along with little concern or measurement, at least for a substantial period of time.
But if you start using uneven doses, you'll have to measure constantly, and while that sounds best, it really turns out to not be, and folks end up on a roller coaters of elevated and depleted levels of things, they run the risks of kits not giving appropriate answers, etc.
So in general, I really think it is best to stick to equal parts of daily dosing unless calcium actually rises above reasonable levels, or falls below them (say, 380-500 ppm).
Don-Coraleone
New member
i add equal parts and my alk always raises to high.
i add equal parts and my alk always raises to high.
Then you should be adding less. You should always determine the dose of a two part based on the need for alkalinity. You should also not be adding pH buffers or other alkalinity supplements, although I have no reason to assume you are.
If calcium is low, say due to a low salt mix like IO, then you should correct that separately with calcium chloride, and not try to fix it by using one half of a more expensive two part additive system. It is the wrong tool for that job. In my system, for example, I use Instant Ocean, and I manually boost it before use with Dowflake to boost calcium and MAG flake to boost magnesium.
There are not other substantial ways that calcium will be too low, at leas tin the short term, when dosing equal parts of a quality two part.
Then you should be adding less. You should always determine the dose of a two part based on the need for alkalinity. You should also not be adding pH buffers or other alkalinity supplements, although I have no reason to assume you are.
If calcium is low, say due to a low salt mix like IO, then you should correct that separately with calcium chloride, and not try to fix it by using one half of a more expensive two part additive system. It is the wrong tool for that job. In my system, for example, I use Instant Ocean, and I manually boost it before use with Dowflake to boost calcium and MAG flake to boost magnesium.
There are not other substantial ways that calcium will be too low, at leas tin the short term, when dosing equal parts of a quality two part.
Reefer07
New member
I am still trying to get my calcium in balance with my alk.
My alk is always steady between 3.0 and 3.5 (4.0 after a WC with IO but I recently switched so I won't be having this problem anymore.
If my calc. is real low I don't like to follow the reef chemistry calculator because it says to add a ridiculous amount. Either that or I am just having great difficulty reading the test kits.
I have the seachem one that is supposed to go from pink to blue. However, after a reasonable level it turns to a dark purple. If I want a blue then I have to put more titrant in and I get a real high level.
I just don't understand how my calcium can be all over the charts.
Also, how often should an average reef tank have to be dosed?
My alk is always steady between 3.0 and 3.5 (4.0 after a WC with IO but I recently switched so I won't be having this problem anymore.
If my calc. is real low I don't like to follow the reef chemistry calculator because it says to add a ridiculous amount. Either that or I am just having great difficulty reading the test kits.
I have the seachem one that is supposed to go from pink to blue. However, after a reasonable level it turns to a dark purple. If I want a blue then I have to put more titrant in and I get a real high level.
I just don't understand how my calcium can be all over the charts.
Also, how often should an average reef tank have to be dosed?
If my calc. is real low I don't like to follow the reef chemistry calculator because it says to add a ridiculous amount. Either that or I am just having great difficulty reading the test kits.
Well, if you do not add the indicated ridiculous amount, you will never correct the problem.
When you test new salt mixes with your kit, what do you get?
Also, how often should an average reef tank have to be dosed?
With B-ionic, most folks do every day. A few do every 2 days.
Well, if you do not add the indicated ridiculous amount, you will never correct the problem.
When you test new salt mixes with your kit, what do you get?
Also, how often should an average reef tank have to be dosed?
With B-ionic, most folks do every day. A few do every 2 days.
Reefer07
New member
Ya, something is weird. I have only been dosing my tank once a week. Or having to dose it according to the tests. Usually I will do my water change and it will bring the alk. up to 4.0. After that I wait a few days till it gets down to 3.0 and bring it back up to 3.5 ml/eq. Then I do my WC and it starts the cycle over again.
However, for my calcium, I am just having a really difficult time reading the kits. Sometimes it says 350ish like the other day or other times it will be in the high 400's.
However, for my calcium, I am just having a really difficult time reading the kits. Sometimes it says 350ish like the other day or other times it will be in the high 400's.
The calcium is not jumping around like that without massive dosing. That is test error.
Alkalinity will only slowly decline if you do not have much demand (i.e., no fast growing hard corals or coralline algae).
Top off water, if tap water, can have significant alkalinity in it, as do many additives that not everyone realizes, such as anything that hopes to boost or maintain pH.
Alkalinity will only slowly decline if you do not have much demand (i.e., no fast growing hard corals or coralline algae).
Top off water, if tap water, can have significant alkalinity in it, as do many additives that not everyone realizes, such as anything that hopes to boost or maintain pH.
Reefer07
New member
I use RO/DI for everything.
I use a seachem test kit. The problem is it claims it is supposed to turn to blue from pink. However, after being pink for a while it turns to a darker purple at what seems to be a reasonable CA lvl. If I make the solution turn blue though, that is when my CA is up around 500.
I don't have too many SPS yet but a decent amount of LPS. My coralline is also starting to build up nicely. Tank is just over 5 months old.
I use a seachem test kit. The problem is it claims it is supposed to turn to blue from pink. However, after being pink for a while it turns to a darker purple at what seems to be a reasonable CA lvl. If I make the solution turn blue though, that is when my CA is up around 500.
I don't have too many SPS yet but a decent amount of LPS. My coralline is also starting to build up nicely. Tank is just over 5 months old.
I've not used a Seachem calcium kit in many years, so I can't help with it. Sorry.
Don-Coraleone
New member
i never battle this promblem in my larger tanks only in my 30 cube.
I don't test most chemicals very often, but when I do I typically use either Salifert (magnesium and calcium) or Hach kits (silicate, phosphate, chlorine and chloramine). Some things I now test with my own methods, such as alkalinity via pH titration. Salinity is via conductivity. pH is via a pH meter.
Obviously Dowflake is ok to use now ( could never finish that thread nor did i want to make it longer...lol)
I thought there was a elevated levels of bromide or something.
I saw that www.bulkreefsupply has a DIY 2-part that uses :
calcium Chloride
Magnesium Chloride
Soda ash (Sodium Carbonate)
Magnesium Sulfate
How is this??? ( im sure shipping would be crazy)
I thought there was a elevated levels of bromide or something.
I saw that www.bulkreefsupply has a DIY 2-part that uses :
calcium Chloride
Magnesium Chloride
Soda ash (Sodium Carbonate)
Magnesium Sulfate
How is this??? ( im sure shipping would be crazy)
Obviously Dowflake is ok to use now
Why do you conclude that? There are concerns about elevated bromide if you use it for daily supplementation.
It is very likely that the Bulk Reef and Buckeye Field Supply materials are OK to use, but I've not personally analyzed them in detail.
Why do you conclude that? There are concerns about elevated bromide if you use it for daily supplementation.
It is very likely that the Bulk Reef and Buckeye Field Supply materials are OK to use, but I've not personally analyzed them in detail.
Oh, yes, it is perfectly fine for that initial salt mix use, but not necessarily the daily two part use.
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