Baby Black Ocellaris Photos!

Nagel

Old Salt...
Premium Member
Ok, I grabbed the macro lens tonight and tried some shots. Keep in mind, these little buggers are only 1/4 - 3/8 inch long and thinner than a pencil lead..

A pair next to a 3/8" rigid airline tubing. I lost alot of the clutch (still figuring out rotifer density) but I have 17 left still (and more hatching monday)
pairairtube.jpg


Trio next to the same rigid airline
trioairtube.jpg


Macro shot of an individual (you know how hard it is to focus on something this small thats constantly moving?)
single-closeup.jpg


Macro shot with Auto Levels applied in Photoshop (ps. those little "white crosses" in the water are day old BBS)
single-adjusted.jpg
 
Oh, I forgot to mention, these guys are a 10 days old..
 
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Cool photos! I also breed black ocellaris. Good luck! What day did you loose most of the clutch? What is your temp, light, feeding routine and aeration method?

Jacob
 
I usually lose most during the first week. I am relatively new with clown breeding, so each clutch is a learning experience and I get more clowns further along each time. If they make it to a week, they are pretty stable from there on out, so far at least.

As for the other parameters, Temp is kept at 81 - 82, a little warmer then the reefs here to keep the metabolism up. Feeding routine thus far has been rotifers for the first 5 days, around day 5 I start mixing in some newly hatched BBS, and feed rotis and bbs for at least 2-3 weeks. The bbs do make the babies super active, but any that have made it to the 2 week mark are noticeably fatter and doing ok with the food. Around day 10-12 I start adding some pulverized flakes. I have 7 x 7 week old orange ocellaris that are on flake totally now, and I usually feed 3x a day (morning, evening and night). I lost 6 of my orange babies at the 6 week mark while feeding cyclopeze powder, I guess some of the clumps didn't break down enough and they choked. Water parameters were fine and I could not find any other reason. I do partial waterchanges daily (20%) and with a large reef system here (1000+ gallons in total) I generally swap water between them, as the bio filtration in the reef totally absorbs any nutrients. When I take water from the reef for the baby tanks I run it through a 53 um sieve to keep any nasties from hitching a ride to the babies tank. I then add some RO/DI to lower the salinity to about 1.020 and run a minijet in my bucket to mix the water before I add it back to the babies tank. To add it back, I tend to drip it in at a slow rate, usually taking 1-2 hours to drip 1-2 gallons. Lighting is 24x7 for the first 2 weeks, then I cut it down to 18 hours from there. The day lighting is whatever makes it down from my ceiling flourescents, and night lighting is provided by a simple LED moonlight that provides more then enough light to even see the rotifers. My 7 week olds still get 18 hours a day. Aeration is provided by an airstone, and thats been a learning experience in itself. Too much and you bash the babies, too little and they asphyxiate.

I think most of my losses are due to rotifer quantities so far, I believe I need more for the first week, but like I said, its a big learning experience. As long as each new batch is more successful then the previous one, I'm happy. All my learning on this is from books and this forum, there is nobody local to me that breeds, so its hard to get firsthand experience locally. Stupid things such as rotifer density and air flow rates are difficult to explain with pictures and books, so little by little I make more progress.

BTW, these are my first blacks. I've had the pair for 2 1/2 years now, but this was the first nest we found. They laid another nest 6 days later, so hopefully it will be that regular. My orange ocellaris have been spawning since last august, but it took me most of the fall to get a rotifer program down pat, and I eventually gave up on culturing my own phyto since the high pH was crashing rotifer colonies left and right, even after bubbling CO2 through it to lower the pH. I've settled on Reed's Nanno3600 for the rotifers, and so far its been pretty good for my routine.
 
Holy Moly, I have GOT to get some of those guys. I went lfs touring today, they retail locally for $50 to $60 :eek1:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7048974#post7048974 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by David M
Holy Moly, I have GOT to get some of those guys. I went lfs touring today, they retail locally for $50 to $60 :eek1:

hehe Now you realize why I am so ecstatic that they finally spawned for me. Even more ecstatic that they had a new nest laid 6 days after the first nest hatched :)
 
So a couple questions if you don't mind, did you start with an adult pair or did you just get some little ones & grow 'em out. If so how long did it take?, I hear they reluctant spawners. Finally are they from the ORA stock or another surce?

The only thing that has really stopped me from buying any is the only ones I ever see available are pathetically small, like 3/4", and I figure it'd be years before they produced, if at all. I did get two of the ORA fish about a year ago and neither one made it more than a few days.
 
I shot for decent genetics with my pair. The male is ORA, but the Female is from TMC. They can take a couple years to start spawning and what ever you do don't throw them off as they can take 6 months or more to come back on cycle... IME
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7050434#post7050434 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Atticus
I shot for decent genetics with my pair. The male is ORA, but the Female is from TMC. They can take a couple years to start spawning and what ever you do don't throw them off as they can take 6 months or more to come back on cycle... IME

Yep they are touchy buggers! They take a long time to start and can be hard to keep going.

Yep they are high priced little buggers too. ;)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7050103#post7050103 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by David M
So a couple questions if you don't mind, did you start with an adult pair or did you just get some little ones & grow 'em out. If so how long did it take?, I hear they reluctant spawners. Finally are they from the ORA stock or another surce?

I'd also like to know a little info on these as well.

As I've heard that B&W ocellaris clowns don't typically breed (the characteristic I've heard is that they're "too stupid" to breed together), and what ends up needing to be done is to get a single B&W, mate it with a single O&W to produce a brown and white.

After that, then the BR&W is mated with the B&W to produce more B&W. Seems like an insanely complicated process.

But as previously mentioned, at the price these guys go for, it'd be an interesting thing to try.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7052543#post7052543 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by psimitry
I'd also like to know a little info on these as well.

As I've heard that B&W ocellaris clowns don't typically breed (the characteristic I've heard is that they're "too stupid" to breed together), and what ends up needing to be done is to get a single B&W, mate it with a single O&W to produce a brown and white.

After that, then the BR&W is mated with the B&W to produce more B&W. Seems like an insanely complicated process.

But as previously mentioned, at the price these guys go for, it'd be an interesting thing to try.

Your information is 100% off base, incorrect, wrong.
 
John, FWIW, a variation of this idea of crossing due to breeding problems with "pure" B&W O's was reported in the Anemonefishes edition of Coral Magazine (switching one of the pair out for a "normal" ocellaris to "teach" the B&W to spawn), not that I agree with it or many other statements/ideas in that and other articles/issues...

-Matt
 
Their slow response to ideal or near ideal breeding environment is MUCH more likely do to their inbreeding, as this is a classic symptom overly inbred animals, than "they are too stupid to spawn".

I idea of diluting the variant to try to re-energize the line, is not one that is of great success. As you have now re-introduced the A. oceallaris back into the "pure" variant. And has already been proven by ORA, clownfish genetics are VERY unusual.

If someone wants to really re-energize the line, get AU to allow collection and export of WC fish from Darwin again. Oh and make sure there is some fair compensation for the colector that has to swimm with man eaters. ;)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7053805#post7053805 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JHardman

If someone wants to really re-energize the line, get AU to allow collection and export of WC fish from Darwin again. Oh and make sure there is some fair compensation for the colector that has to swimm with man eaters. ;)

How do you properly compensate someone for swimming with sharks and crocs? ;)

I think the idea that the article presented was to use the normal ocellaris only as a teacher, and then to replace it again with the B&W once the ritual was learned, not actually to keep the offspring of the "mixed" pair.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7050103#post7050103 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by David M
So a couple questions if you don't mind, did you start with an adult pair or did you just get some little ones & grow 'em out. If so how long did it take?, I hear they reluctant spawners. Finally are they from the ORA stock or another surce?

They are both ORA's and I bought them 2 1/2 years ago at about 3/4" - 1" (closer to 1"). Both were the same size, and obviously juveniles. The LFS I worked in got a batch of about 20, and believe it or not, these were the 2 left after the first 18 sold. So I didn't even get "pick of the litter". The bosses there made us get last dibs quite often.

They started to differentiate in size about a year after I received them, though they seemed to pair bond early on. They never strayed far from one another. When the female began a major growth spurt, the male began cleaning like a crazy man. He cleaned everything for like a year and a half. Originally I had them in a 30g breeder with no other fish, and a few small RBTA's which they had no interest in. A few months ago one of my local friends (theTiler) had a major tank mishap, and I ended up with a few of his large GBTAs. I put the GBTA's in a cube tank that sits between my wifes and my computer desks and moved them in a few days later. (so in short, there's always constant activity outside their tank). They took an immediate interest in the larger BTA's, and a few months later we noticed the first spawn (we noticed it on the day before the night they hatched, talk about lucky!). I have done ok with the babies, considering I am really a beginner breeder, but 5 1/2 days after the hatch I noticed a new nest.

Mind you, I have not done anything to really induce a spawn. No special foods (they eat Spectrum Thera+ pellets and the occassional frozen hikari mysid cube), no heavy water changes (the tank seems to be on autopilot, and with a low bioload, basically a pair of clowns, pair of redheaded gobies and 4 GBTA's) it seems to do well enough without much interaction. I haven't noticed a raise or lowering of the temp (79.5 pretty stable), and I havent simulated any plankton blooms.

Scott, aka Traveller7, told me his pair were very regular for 6 nests before he moved them, then they decided to take a break.

As for the cross breeding, I haven't needed to teach them a thing. No other clowns have been with them since I've had them, and they just did it on their own. I thought the most recent nest was going to hatch last night (it didn't so tonight is the night), and I noticed something peculiar. I know fry are not immune to anemone stings, and I did notice that for almost 4 hours after lights out, the male seemed to be diligently moving any anemone tentacle that would impede the fry from getting to the surface. He just kept going back and forth, constantly moving the anemone tentacles out of the way. Interesting to watch for sure, since he never did this for just the nest, and both of them seem to love nuzzling in their anemones (they adopted 3 out of the 4, the 4th on the back wall gets ignored)...

I'll keep you posted on how regularly they spawn, and if I make any changes, but for now, it works for them, it works for me, and I'm not going to mess that up. 2 1/2 years is a long wait.

BTW, here's a pic of the happy parents with their BTA's

25ganemone.jpg
 
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