Battling Dinos!!! (Almost quit, getting second wind!)

CaptainFlyingFishGuts

CaptainFlyingFishGuts

Rock Arranger
Premium Member
Finally determined that it's dinoflagellate I've been battling for a while. I should have tried to id it a while back, but I just thought it was a brown slime algae of some type because I waited too long to change my DI filter. I've changed the DI cartridge a while back and recently changed my lights. (11 months on T5s.) I ordered a BRS reactor and some GFO. It arrives tomorrow. I'm going to go get a PO4 test first starting the GFO though because I've been reading some threads about dinoflagellate and I'm finding conflicting information. One thread was saying that 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates were the reason for dinoflagellate and that they should be raised a tiny bit to get rid of the stuff. Another thread suggested that the dino need PO4 to grow and suggested running GFO. Any experience here in the STL area with this pest and how has anyone beat it. I'd hate to think that a good skimmer and scheduled water changes are hurting my tank, except it would lower my maintenance if that was the case.

I
 
CaptainFlyingFishGuts said:
Finally determined that it's dinoflagellate I've been battling for a while. I should have tried to id it a while back, but I just thought it was a brown slime algae of some type because I waited too long to change my DI filter. I've changed the DI cartridge a while back and recently changed my lights. (11 months on T5s.) I ordered a BRS reactor and some GFO. It arrives tomorrow. I'm going to go get a PO4 test first starting the GFO though because I've been reading some threads about dinoflagellate and I'm finding conflicting information. One thread was saying that 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates were the reason for dinoflagellate and that they should be raised a tiny bit to get rid of the stuff. Another thread suggested that the dino need PO4 to grow and suggested running GFO. Any experience here in the STL area with this pest and how has anyone beat it. I'd hate to think that a good skimmer and scheduled water changes are hurting my tank, except it would lower my maintenance if that was the case.

I
Click to expand...

I have heard to raise the KH?
 
Quote, "Dinoflagellates are a nasty problem that have driven some aquarists to consider leaving the hobby. Treatments often take a considerable period of time, and are not always effective. Nevertheless, the best known ways to treat problem dinoflagellates are to reduce nutrients and to raise pH, especially with limewater."

(http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-11/rhf/index.php)
 
I had it for about 4 months when I first set up my tank. Tried everything I saw posted. PH, lights off etc. This is what worked for me..

1: Light out for 5 days, covered the tank, Sump light off also!!!
2: Sucked out all I could see before lights out.....
3: Did not feed for 5 days while lights out.
4: Bought a 2 spot bristle tooth tang @ SS. He ate it!
5: Repeat steps 1 thru 3 again after 2 days of light.

Not sure what one thing worked but it is all gone now. So either these worked for
me, or it just burned itself / ran it's course...

It sucks but just keep at it, UGLY stuff..
 
Last edited:
GFO and reactor arrived today. Started raising PH last night. PO4 test kit and carbon ordered tonight. I may do a two day blackout, but all my corals are doing pretty good, so I don't want to risk that yet till I try some other methods.
 
dinos

dinos

I am by no means an expert but I have had the same problem this last month or so. From talking to several people at different LFS and research I have been told to reduce light amount (length of time on) increase my KH and PH and to stop water changes until it is under control. It appears to be working.

Don't take my word for it, but use the info to start asking others questions.
 
I've tested phosphates tonight and nitrates last night and both are 0. I was starting to question the test kits so I added a drop of soap to my phosphate test water and it turned blue like I would expect.

My plan is now what you said keh9qd. 2 days of lights out, continue to increase my KH & PH, and running carbon to reduce the toxins.

Should I be looking to downsize my skimmer? I read a thread that claimed that 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates will cause dino problems. I have an Octopus Extreme 250 on a 120g with 6 fish. It pulls out some good stuff, but maybe too much. I guess I could start feeding more. I never thought I'd read a thread that suggested dosing with nitrates and phosphates, but it was on here.
 
CaptainFlyingFishGuts said:
Should I be looking to downsize my skimmer? I read a thread that claimed that 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates will cause dino problems. I have an Octopus Extreme 250 on a 120g with 6 fish. It pulls out some good stuff, but maybe too much. I guess I could start feeding more. I never thought I'd read a thread that suggested dosing with nitrates and phosphates, but it was on here.
Click to expand...

You're just getting a False-Negative on your testing. You can't get a reading because the dino's are taking it out of the water column faster than you can get a sample. Waterchanges will increase fuel dinoflagellate growth so only do as much as you need to replace the water removed while siphoning them out. Don't add nitrates nor phosphates to your tank....there's already plenty of them in there.

Siphon
Kill the lights for several days
Run your GFO
Keep your pH elevated by dripping Kalkwasser

This will solve your problem for you
 
TDS readings are 0.
SG = 1.025
Ca = 400
dKH = 8.51
Mag = 1365
NO3 = 0
PH = 8.25

I've been running the GFO for the last week and I've done two 48 hour lights out periods. The lights out periods help, but they come back pretty quick. I'm thinking of wrapping the tank with blankets to eliminate any lights and leave it like that for 3 days. What do you mean by several days inwall? At what point am I going to start damaging my corals, clams, etc?
 
I had the same problem. Someone turned me on to a product called Special Blend. It is pure bacteria that eats up the extra nutrients in the water. It helped me with me problem. I am a firm believer in this product. The only bad thing about this product is it smells really bad. Don't do it if your going to have company over that day.
 
By the way, I'm working on increasing calcium and dkh by increasing my dosing amounts. I'm up to 1.05mL per gallon per day. I'm going to need to switch to a calcium reactor at some point.
 
OK don't consider my opinion. Dino is not from phosphates or from nitrates. They live off of silicate. Which is from too much nutrients. When doing a water change your adding nutrients. When feeding the fish your adding nutrients. By turning off you lights does nothing. By adding kalk is helps brake up the nutrients for the skimmer to skim out. Running carbon also helps to remove nutrients. Adding bacteria to eat the access nutrients equals no dino.

Please go to Sea Scape and ask for Dawyn. He is a water chemist.
 
I've been considering your suggestion. I googled it and just wanted to make sure I know what I'm adding. I'll talk to seascape about it as well. I very much appreciate the suggestion.
 
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