bean animal overflow question...

overflowin

New member
my new tank is a 220 with a 1" drain and 2 3/4 returns coming up thru the overflow. will the beananimal overflow system work well with this configuration? my return pump is a waveline dc10000ii. i don't think a standard 1" durso would handle the flow... anyone have some input on this for me?
 
A BA system is not suited to a corner overflow, or even dual corner overflows. It is more geared towards custom installations, although in some cases, a "standard" type installation can work. You would be better off looking into Herbie's modification. Just be advised that is will not be as stable, nor as safe, as a BA system, but the silence and flow capacity will be there.
 
The tank doesn't have corner overflows. It's a center overflow, with the 3 bulkheads in it. I know a coast to coast is ideal for a BA system, but I didn't know if it was a requirement. I have looked at the herbie before, just thought the added emergency drain of the ba was worthwhile. That being said, if a herbie will fit in my overflow box, there's no reason I can't extend one of the 3/4 pipes just above the water line, correct? Isn't that the only real difference between the 2?
 
I think you will be fine with that setup but keep in mind the BA has 3 of the same sized drain. So in the case of primary drain blockage, your trickle drain will not be able to handle as much volume and your emergency drain will come into play. Play around with it and test all scenarios to make sure you are covering all bases!
 
You easily could run a herbie style drain with a backup emergency, essentially creating a bean animal. (to me herbies are bottom drilled BA's are side drilled) a 3/4" siphon with a 1" open channel and a 3/4" emergency will get you close to 1,000 GPH. Of course you would need to run your return over your tank.

No need to add any elbows to the siphon or emergency lines just open pipes, do the open channel like BA's diagram with the siphon hose.

Anyway you could increase the hole diameters or drill other holes in the sides near the overflow bottom. I would run more flow than what a 3/4" bulkhead would accomodate, Also a 3/4" hole in that size of a tank makes me think it's not factory built so there is a good chance you can drill the bottom, certainly check first.
 
It's a perfecto tank... I thought about making more holes, but I already have the tank in place and it takes 4 people to move it.
 
The tank doesn't have corner overflows. It's a center overflow, with the 3 bulkheads in it. I know a coast to coast is ideal for a BA system, but I didn't know if it was a requirement. I have looked at the herbie before, just thought the added emergency drain of the ba was worthwhile. That being said, if a herbie will fit in my overflow box, there's no reason I can't extend one of the 3/4 pipes just above the water line, correct? Isn't that the only real difference between the 2?

No, it isn't. Since you are not getting the correct information:

You have to be careful with common information available concerning the Herbie modified drain system, and how it compares to a BA. Even after all these years, too many folks get it completely wrong.

Both systems incorporate a DRY emergency backup drain. No flow is put through this drain, in normal operation. Otherwise it is a plug risk, and not an emergency backup. The Herbie is not stable, and the water level in the overflow will fluctuate, with changing ambient conditions, etc.

Bean noted the instability in the Herbie modification, and took steps to mitigate the instability. He incorporated what has come to be known as an "open channel" into the system to provide a self-adjustment feature. The open channel is a Durso standpipe, (with air hole.) He also used some tubing from the hole to act as a trigger to "trip" the open channel to siphon mode (no air in the line,) in case the both the siphon and DRY emergency failed. Both of these modifications, as well as making the system rock stable, added an additional layer of fail safety, making it the safest drain system in use today.

Siphon drain systems have been around a very long time. They predate both the Bean, and the Herbie, as well as the Durso. Richard Durso, invented the Durso, to both mitigate the water fall into the overflow (why siphon standpipes were being used) but also to mitigate the flood risk involved with siphon standpipes. He did not understand the physics of his design, and the rest, as they say, is history. The rule for running a siphon standpipe was/is never run a siphon without a DRY emergency backup. There is no ambiguity in that rule: DRY is DRY, a "wet pipe," regardless of the amount of "wet," is not DRY, and therefore cannot be considered safe.

Herbie knew the rule. His design incorporated the obligatory DRY emergency standpipe. Bean knew the rule, and even though he added an open channel (durso) to the setup, he still included the obligatory DRY emergency, and in no uncertain terms stated that all three standpipes must be used. Why? Because a drain with water in it is a plug risk. There is no ambiguity in that, and the statistical probabilities are irrelevant. A system is either safe, or it is not safe. A lot of folks are very put off by the lack of ambiguity, believing for some reason that a confusing blend of 100 different ways to to do something is less complicated, than a subject being simply black and white.

Sometime after Bean published his design, suddenly the Herbie was being improperly implemented by allowing a "trickle" of flow through the DRY emergency. An attempt to incorporate the self adjustment feature of the BA, without incorporating either of the safety features. Ignoring the basic safety rule, chancing the odds, however one wishes to look at it. they ignore the fact that if the "trickle of flow" pipe occludes the system is going to flood, and there is nothing to prevent it.

Some of late have tried to mitigate that risk by using the air vent line trigger for the "trickle of flow pipe" or open channel, Durso. However, this is not very well thought out, and although a "step" in the right direction, if the open channel, "trickle of flow" pipe, Durso occludes, the system is going to flood and the trigger is not going to make any difference.

I know Bean has had the open channel fail, not sure if he has had both fail, but I have. If it can happen with us, it can happen with anyone, at any time. It only takes once, and by then, if you have "played the odds" it is too late, and it can be very expensive.

The difference between the Herbie and the BA is the open channel, not the DRY emergency. If you run the open channel, or "wet pipe" on a "Herbie" it is no longer a Herbie, and it is not a BA. It is something else. Folks do it, they claim there are no issues with it. That does not mean it is safe, nor does make it safe. I simply means some folks do it.

Beyond the open channel, the function of both systems is the same, based on size of the opening, pressure head, and friction loss. Some try to make more of a difference out of it, but it is a mis-application of the physics, and misses a few rather important points.

You don't have to read very much to implement either of these systems. In fact, reading too much is part of the problem. The information needed to implement either or both of these systems is on the first page of both original threads, and Bean's is also posted on his website. Bean's thread is very large and cumbersome to go through, reading (and understanding) the first couple of pages is all you need. The rest, fortunately or unfortunately is just rehashing, repeating, redundant questions over and over again. In between the redundancy is some very valuable information however, and skimming the thread is a very good idea.
 
It's a perfecto tank... I thought about making more holes, but I already have the tank in place and it takes 4 people to move it.

Well you should not be trying to move or modify a tank with it fully loaded anyway. That is kinda asking for an accident. To be honest with you, the 40 breeder is a wobbler, or border-line tank size. Unless you are looking to push above 400gph, there is no point to going to the trouble to implement a siphon system. Most likely you will not be pushing >350gph through it, and a single large durso can handle that with few if any issues. It is far simpler and less "confusing" than implementing a siphon system, especially when the information is skewed, and not really in line with the basic design criteria for the two siphon systems.
 
Isn't it a 220 Gallon with waveline dc10000ii or 2,800 GPH at zero head pump, oh two posters, never mind.

You may need to reduce the flow with your pump DC with a controller is too easy anyway. Run a siphon line with 3/4" pipe with a 1" gate valve. (the valves are smaller than the interior pipe even when completely open) Likely you will need to maximize siphon flow. The 1" durso is very small and only gives you a bit of help in terms of running silent. It would be adequate if only the siphon is clogged the emergency will need to be low enough in the overflow to handle all the flow if both are clogged.

If it were me I'd redrill but you may try it and see, completely close the siphon line and see what happens, then block the open channel to verify that the 3/4" emergency will handle the flow without burning up your return or flooding your display. Best to use freshwater for the test.

Uncle has some great points and history lesson for us all I still maintain that a herbie even unsafely operated is still safer than a single durso given the same water flow rate. One thing that should be included in both systems is an overflow lid or firm screen. Snails are drawn like magnets to the siphons. Most can pass through a durso without problem but the gate valve stops nearly all snails creating mass havoc. Which is why an emergency pipe is NEEDED.
 
Isn't it a 220 Gallon with waveline dc10000ii or 2,800 GPH at zero head pump, oh two posters, never mind.

You may need to reduce the flow with your pump DC with a controller is too easy anyway. Run a siphon line with 3/4" pipe with a 1" gate valve. (the valves are smaller than the interior pipe even when completely open) Likely you will need to maximize siphon flow. The 1" durso is very small and only gives you a bit of help in terms of running silent. It would be adequate if only the siphon is clogged the emergency will need to be low enough in the overflow to handle all the flow if both are clogged.

If it were me I'd redrill but you may try it and see, completely close the siphon line and see what happens, then block the open channel to verify that the 3/4" emergency will handle the flow without burning up your return or flooding your display. Best to use freshwater for the test.

Uncle has some great points and history lesson for us all I still maintain that a herbie even unsafely operated is still safer than a single durso given the same water flow rate. One thing that should be included in both systems is an overflow lid or firm screen. Snails are drawn like magnets to the siphons. Most can pass through a durso without problem but the gate valve stops nearly all snails creating mass havoc. Which is why an emergency pipe is NEEDED.

A single durso cannot handle the same flow rate anyway, so it is rather a moot point. I disagree with the logic in that snails are not the only way to stop up a drain. As many problems as you seem to have with snails, maybe it is time to eliminate them from your systems? I did that years ago, a real nuisance they are.
 
No, it isn't. Since you are not getting the correct information:

You have to be careful with common information available concerning the Herbie modified drain system, and how it compares to a BA. Even after all these years, too many folks get it completely wrong.

Both systems incorporate a DRY emergency backup drain. No flow is put through this drain, in normal operation. Otherwise it is a plug risk, and not an emergency backup. The Herbie is not stable, and the water level in the overflow will fluctuate, with changing ambient conditions, etc.

Bean noted the instability in the Herbie modification, and took steps to mitigate the instability. He incorporated what has come to be known as an "open channel" into the system to provide a self-adjustment feature. The open channel is a Durso standpipe, (with air hole.) He also used some tubing from the hole to act as a trigger to "trip" the open channel to siphon mode (no air in the line,) in case the both the siphon and DRY emergency failed. Both of these modifications, as well as making the system rock stable, added an additional layer of fail safety, making it the safest drain system in use today.

Siphon drain systems have been around a very long time. They predate both the Bean, and the Herbie, as well as the Durso. Richard Durso, invented the Durso, to both mitigate the water fall into the overflow (why siphon standpipes were being used) but also to mitigate the flood risk involved with siphon standpipes. He did not understand the physics of his design, and the rest, as they say, is history. The rule for running a siphon standpipe was/is never run a siphon without a DRY emergency backup. There is no ambiguity in that rule: DRY is DRY, a "wet pipe," regardless of the amount of "wet," is not DRY, and therefore cannot be considered safe.

Herbie knew the rule. His design incorporated the obligatory DRY emergency standpipe. Bean knew the rule, and even though he added an open channel (durso) to the setup, he still included the obligatory DRY emergency, and in no uncertain terms stated that all three standpipes must be used. Why? Because a drain with water in it is a plug risk. There is no ambiguity in that, and the statistical probabilities are irrelevant. A system is either safe, or it is not safe. A lot of folks are very put off by the lack of ambiguity, believing for some reason that a confusing blend of 100 different ways to to do something is less complicated, than a subject being simply black and white.

Sometime after Bean published his design, suddenly the Herbie was being improperly implemented by allowing a "trickle" of flow through the DRY emergency. An attempt to incorporate the self adjustment feature of the BA, without incorporating either of the safety features. Ignoring the basic safety rule, chancing the odds, however one wishes to look at it. they ignore the fact that if the "trickle of flow" pipe occludes the system is going to flood, and there is nothing to prevent it.

Some of late have tried to mitigate that risk by using the air vent line trigger for the "trickle of flow pipe" or open channel, Durso. However, this is not very well thought out, and although a "step" in the right direction, if the open channel, "trickle of flow" pipe, Durso occludes, the system is going to flood and the trigger is not going to make any difference.

I know Bean has had the open channel fail, not sure if he has had both fail, but I have. If it can happen with us, it can happen with anyone, at any time. It only takes once, and by then, if you have "played the odds" it is too late, and it can be very expensive.

The difference between the Herbie and the BA is the open channel, not the DRY emergency. If you run the open channel, or "wet pipe" on a "Herbie" it is no longer a Herbie, and it is not a BA. It is something else. Folks do it, they claim there are no issues with it. That does not mean it is safe, nor does make it safe. I simply means some folks do it.

Beyond the open channel, the function of both systems is the same, based on size of the opening, pressure head, and friction loss. Some try to make more of a difference out of it, but it is a mis-application of the physics, and misses a few rather important points.

You don't have to read very much to implement either of these systems. In fact, reading too much is part of the problem. The information needed to implement either or both of these systems is on the first page of both original threads, and Bean's is also posted on his website. Bean's thread is very large and cumbersome to go through, reading (and understanding) the first couple of pages is all you need. The rest, fortunately or unfortunately is just rehashing, repeating, redundant questions over and over again. In between the redundancy is some very valuable information however, and skimming the thread is a very good idea.
Uncle,
Thanks for the history lesson, I learned alot. I have a quick question that I think I already know the answer to.

My original plans were to make the center overflow on my new tank into a Bean style drain design. I know that this style overflow is not as efficient as a C2C, but it was what I was stuck with. Unfortunately, the tank came cut for 2 - 1" drains and 2 - 3/4" returns (I was originally told 3 - 1" drains and 2 - 3/4" returns). Is there any configuration that I can use that would be feasable? Say, the full flow and siphon on the 1" pipes and both 3/4" pipes kept for emergency (I would take the returns over the top)?
 
Or the 2 - 3/4" pipes as the full flow and siphon and the 2 - 1" pipes as the dry emergency and the return? What kind of flow would that allow to the sump?

What I'm looking for is the best of all worlds: silence, failsafe design, and ability to carry as much flow as possible. Hoping for 8-10 times turnover to the sump in a 140 gallon tank.
 
Ya, i would either do as the post above this one, where the 1" is your emergency, or use the valve on the 1" to dial it down to the flow of a 3/4' pipe or a little less.
 
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