Best Battery Back up option for Tunze...GO!

five.five-six said:
Very nice.



Are you an engineer IRL?
Click to expand...



Oh I didn't design it or anything, I just followed instructions from the site and it was surprisingly super easy to do.

Also saying that I did make sure to use a pure sine-wave inverter as I was told way back when I bought my generator some of the electronics may not do so well being run off a modified sine-wave inverter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have a 6055 and a Safety Connector, so I found this old/new battery in the garage. It is a 12v 8AH, Non-Spillable about the size of a brick. I think I bought it years ago for those electric cars that yours kids sit on and ride around the sidewalk.

Would something like that work? If I need something bigger in a pinch I could use one of my car batteries.
 
in preparation for Hurricane Irma and Jose

in preparation for Hurricane Irma and Jose

Double checking my Tunze 6105.5 safety connector setup in preparation for Hurricane Irma and Jose. Supporting both a 75gal and 90gal, this is my battery back-up as follows:

12V 35Ah Duracell Deepcycle SLA battery + Tunze safety connector will run the return pump Tunze 1073.05 during any power failures automatically but for how long?

Adding a 2nd or 3rd safety connector could run more equipment like the Tunze controller 7000 and Tunze 6055/6095 wavemaker(s) but I'll do with just the return pump for now maybe adding the controller too... I also have a battery operated air pump + air-stone combo.

So Tunze pumps are engineered to allow for the choice to run their DC pumps via their jumpers at either 12v, 18v or 24volts.

I run all my controllable pumps at 24v.

If I add another 12v 35Ah SLA battery and run them in "series" achieving the 24v step-up in capacity... then add 7000 controller + additional pump(s). Is 2 batteries overkill or worth the additional estimated runtime?

My return pump's max energy consumption at 24 V equals a max. of 43 watts. I'm unsure of the realtime power draw.

10x(Battery Capacity in Amp Hours) / (Load power in Watts)
_________________________________________
= Run time in hours

10x(35Ah)/43watts=Run time in hours

Series Option: 10x(70Ah)/43watts=Run time in hours

I'm double checking with Roger and/or the folks in the thread for feedback /suggests on this setup?

Thank you!
 
I had my 1073 running at 24v and had two 12v deep cycle marine batteries configured to 24v and maintained with a 24v battery tender. That setup would run a good 2.5 - 3 days with no problems at all. That said, if you add the power heads to that configuration then you'll definitely shorten the life span of the batteries. If it was me, I rather have the 1073 running than power heads. This way you still get filtration, oxygen exchange, and the life in the sump won't die and be put back in the tank once the power comes back on. Others may disagree but that was important to me.
 
I just noticed your math for run time hours. A 35ah battery should last you about about 17 hours or so as the 1073 uses 1.8amps. Having the batteries configured as 24v doesn't give you 70ah but rather it will remain at 35ah. Roger should be able to confirm this. It's one of the reasons I went with the marine deep cycle batteries (122ah). I picked these up from Walmart. Either way, 17 hours is pretty good and you can always change the batteries out if need be.
 
jassimps said:
Double checking my Tunze 6105.5 safety connector setup in preparation for Hurricane Irma and Jose. Supporting both a 75gal and 90gal, this is my battery back-up as follows:

12V 35Ah Duracell Deepcycle SLA battery + Tunze safety connector will run the return pump Tunze 1073.05 during any power failures automatically but for how long?

Adding a 2nd or 3rd safety connector could run more equipment like the Tunze controller 7000 and Tunze 6055/6095 wavemaker(s) but I'll do with just the return pump for now maybe adding the controller too... I also have a battery operated air pump + air-stone combo.

So Tunze pumps are engineered to allow for the choice to run their DC pumps via their jumpers at either 12v, 18v or 24volts.

I run all my controllable pumps at 24v.

If I add another 12v 35Ah SLA battery and run them in "series" achieving the 24v step-up in capacity... then add 7000 controller + additional pump(s). Is 2 batteries overkill or worth the additional estimated runtime?

My return pump's max energy consumption at 24 V equals a max. of 43 watts. I'm unsure of the realtime power draw.

10x(Battery Capacity in Amp Hours) / (Load power in Watts)
_________________________________________
= Run time in hours

10x(35Ah)/43watts=Run time in hours

Series Option: 10x(70Ah)/43watts=Run time in hours

I'm double checking with Roger and/or the folks in the thread for feedback /suggests on this setup?

Thank you!
Click to expand...

The 1073.050 will have very little head pressure at 12V so it likely won't be able to reach the tank, for this pump typically at least 18V is needed for use as a return pump. I would just disconnect the pumps from the 7000, the 7000 would need a back up as well to run and if it is off the pumps won't run, it is not a necessity in an emergency.
 
Thank you Roger, I'm still running the wavemakers off one of the legacy controllers and the return pump is setup in a similar situation. The 7000 is only running the pH and Temp functions for now. Jim was able to correct my math on the amps.

How many watts or amps does the 7000 controller need to run properly?
 
jassimps said:
Thank you Roger, I'm still running the wavemakers off one of the legacy controllers and the return pump is setup in a similar manner. The 7000 is only monitoring the pH and Temp functions only for now. Jim was able to correct my math on the amps.

How many watts or amps does the 7000 controller need to run properly?
Click to expand...

Answered my own question after reading thru the manual I couldn't find it then I looked at the back of the controller 12v 1.6amps input it says.:thumbsup:
 
The power supply is 1.6 Amp 12V but it really uses about 1 Amp and this varies with how many units are connected and how much it is being used, if it is resting and not switching solenoids, etc, it can be a fraction of an Amp.
 
I had a friend hook up my tunze safety connector to a deep cycle marine battery and he had to cut the connector off of the end of the safety connector to hook it up to the battery. Is there another way to hook it up to the battery without cutting the connector off? Whatever he did worked and I only had to run the 6105 for around 24 hours. At first the safety connector was making a clicking sound but it ended up going away. I ordered 2 more safety connectors in case I want to run more power heads in the future but I didn't want him to cut the connectors off it's not necessary.
 
Nothing needs to be cut, you need to make a suitable harness depending on battery type that would attach to the battery, so for a deep cycle marine battery we would buy 2 post adapters, the most feasible would be this type of clamp and this solution here would be as easy as cutting off the cigarette lighter end stripping and tinning the wires and plugging them into the clip that was cut off. Since there are so many types of battery connectors, this final connection we leave up to the end user. By the way, I am not endorsing this seller, never used them it just came up in a google search.

http://www.dx.com/p/alligator-clip-...lighter-socket-adaptor-12v-67406#.WbrWCoprxE4
 
If you are not using them, they would work, for that matter you could wire the charger to them as well so you just have the one set of clamps on the battery.
 
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