Yeah, also now that you posted the channels you're outputting on, I'd probably try to keep blues on one channel and whites/colors on another. That's one thing that I also did that I do not regret, is that I have all RB on one channel, then CW, NW, R, G, V on the other channel. The "colors" channel mixes nicely, and if I want a whiter look, I turn those up (100% is 700mA on that channel, I still run them at 45%). If I want a bluer look, I can turn the colors down. I don't think mixing white and blue on one channel will be helpful, and should be avoided, as you can't control coloration as much then.
Best design for this hybrid light
- Thread starter Webmanny
- Start date
CrazyEyes
New member
Use as many channels as you possibly can, I mean even though you can get away with running whites with the other colors if you can run everything on it's own its going to make a world of difference, especially when it comes time to fine tune the color you want. Nothing quite as frustrating as wanting the tank to be a little bit more white and having the others at the same intensity.
Webmanny
Active member
Complete agree with the channel suggestions. I am potentially going with 3 channels for now, but could go up to 4 channels with my controller. If you see the second option I provided above, White will be on its own channel and the other two channels will be available for the other color combinations.
Webmanny
Active member
You are correct the controller does have 5 channels. I somehow forgot about that. As far as the drivers go... I don't use them. I use a power supply and the controller acts as the driver. The controller, along with the power supply act as a current driver instead of a voltage delivery system.
Alitoo_81
New member
T5's on the outside is what I would do and with quality reflectors you can still cover the led area with some t5 light.
Here's my hybrid
Nice, do you have SPS? are they colored and growing?
thanks
MrHarvard
"ship it"
Let me start off by saying I have ran several different kinds of lights, made a few LED fixtures, and researched the topic for more hours than I can count. I love the hybrid idea and I think it's hands down the best combo for a reef tank. I think you have way more LEDs than you need and I would suggest changing your T5 bulb selection to ATI blue plus. My thoughts on led selection are a little different but that's just me. I always refer back to the most successful tanks I have seen and what they are running and I ask lots of questions. Good luck with the build looks like it's gonna be killer.
Webmanny
Active member
I agree on the overkill of LEDs, but I think overkill is underrated. I will run these at 30% to begin and increase as needed.
As far as the T5 selection, I like your idea. Just to make sure I understand. You are suggesting that I run two Blue Plus instead of one blue and one purple?
As far as the T5 selection, I like your idea. Just to make sure I understand. You are suggesting that I run two Blue Plus instead of one blue and one purple?
MrHarvard
"ship it"
Yes sir that is my suggestion. In regards to overkill I did the same exact thing and built a monster and regretted it. If anything cut back on the number of whites and increase your RB. If you have any experience with LEDs you know how tricky it can be to get them dialed in so all corals are happy and your not cooking them. If you haven't already do a quick par estimate on what your building maybe that will change your mind.
Daimyo68
Active member
Curious if you have thought about a MultiChip design.
I built a T5/LED Hybrid about 6 months ago using the Lumia 5.2 chip. The fixture is a Tek 8x54w. I removed the 2 center T5's, and in their place, installed a 3"x46" aluminum heatsink with the 2 Lumia 5.2's on it.
Ran all 6 of the T5's at first, and have since turned off 4 of them and just run 2 ATI Blue+ T5's and the Lumia's.
I'm impressed with the Lumia's (they are the closest I have used so far in getting a 14k Pheonix look), color and growth is great. I would turn off the T5's all together, but coral growth forces me to use the T5's due to shading from colonies, and the fact that my 2 LED's are centered above my reef. My tank is 48x30, and if I had known that I would be happy with the results of the Lumia's, I would have built it using 4 of them alone and got even coverage everywhere.
At some point, I will build another fixture and utilize 4 Lumia's.
Couple images of my fixture: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=23786115#post23786115
I built a T5/LED Hybrid about 6 months ago using the Lumia 5.2 chip. The fixture is a Tek 8x54w. I removed the 2 center T5's, and in their place, installed a 3"x46" aluminum heatsink with the 2 Lumia 5.2's on it.
Ran all 6 of the T5's at first, and have since turned off 4 of them and just run 2 ATI Blue+ T5's and the Lumia's.
I'm impressed with the Lumia's (they are the closest I have used so far in getting a 14k Pheonix look), color and growth is great. I would turn off the T5's all together, but coral growth forces me to use the T5's due to shading from colonies, and the fact that my 2 LED's are centered above my reef. My tank is 48x30, and if I had known that I would be happy with the results of the Lumia's, I would have built it using 4 of them alone and got even coverage everywhere.
At some point, I will build another fixture and utilize 4 Lumia's.
Couple images of my fixture: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=23786115#post23786115
MrHarvard
"ship it"
Exactly what I would do!! I'm currently looking for an old T5/MH fixture. I'm currently running a AI Prime over my 29g cube and I want to remove the MH housing from the old fixture and replace it with my prime. In addition I prefer the pucks because the grouping of the LEDs all in one spot.
Webmanny
Active member
OK. You got my attention.
How can I do a PAR estimate? What do I use?
I have a PAR meter and with my current LED light, I'm a bit on the lower side. Please note that the current light is pushing 144 watts using 48 LEDs, which some would say is overkill. However, PAR measurement show the bottom of the tank at less than 80 PAR in some areas. Just FYI, tank is 21" deep.
The funny thing is that everything is growing great. The only issue I have is coloration and that is where the hybrid light comes in.
I would love to get this built 100% right. Therefore, any feedback you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
How can I do a PAR estimate? What do I use?
I have a PAR meter and with my current LED light, I'm a bit on the lower side. Please note that the current light is pushing 144 watts using 48 LEDs, which some would say is overkill. However, PAR measurement show the bottom of the tank at less than 80 PAR in some areas. Just FYI, tank is 21" deep.
The funny thing is that everything is growing great. The only issue I have is coloration and that is where the hybrid light comes in.
I would love to get this built 100% right. Therefore, any feedback you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
Webmanny
Active member
I love your build by the way, but these LEDs are a bit more expensive than I'm looking to drop on this light. Like I said before, my current light does a great job at growing my corals and I get great shimmer from them too.
My issue is color and that is why I'm looking to combine my current setup with some T5 bulbs.
I wish I had the cash to get these multichip LEDs, but at $100 each, it falls out of my hobby category expense.
Daimyo68
Active member
No doubt, the puck style setups can get pricey.
What kind of controller/power supply are you using? You might be able to just get away with buying a CPU heatsink/fan, and a multichip.
I've setup these Lumia's using meanwell eln drivers and an apex, and also using the meanwell LDD drivers with the Storm and StormX controllers.
Give us a list of what you have so far contoller/power supply wise.
It might not be as expensive as you think.
Also, fyi. The Lumia's cover a 24"x24 area, I can confirm that statement from them. If i didn't have the issue of shadowing from colonies, I would be satisfied to run just the 2 of them alone over my tank.
Also, for those who are curious, My par value on the sandbed, is roughly 100-115 if i remember correctly, (my tank is 24" high, with a 1" deep sandbed) with just the leds running. It's more than enough to keep a purple passion acro sitting on the sand with awesome color.
And, I am not a salesman for the Lumia, or affiliated with them in any way. I'm just extremely happy with them.
What kind of controller/power supply are you using? You might be able to just get away with buying a CPU heatsink/fan, and a multichip.
I've setup these Lumia's using meanwell eln drivers and an apex, and also using the meanwell LDD drivers with the Storm and StormX controllers.
Give us a list of what you have so far contoller/power supply wise.
It might not be as expensive as you think.
Also, fyi. The Lumia's cover a 24"x24 area, I can confirm that statement from them. If i didn't have the issue of shadowing from colonies, I would be satisfied to run just the 2 of them alone over my tank.
Also, for those who are curious, My par value on the sandbed, is roughly 100-115 if i remember correctly, (my tank is 24" high, with a 1" deep sandbed) with just the leds running. It's more than enough to keep a purple passion acro sitting on the sand with awesome color.
And, I am not a salesman for the Lumia, or affiliated with them in any way. I'm just extremely happy with them.
Daimyo68
Active member
The fixture is roughly 5" above the tank.
1 will be more than enough for a 20x20 tank, and you will most likely run them way below full power in a 12" deep tank.
I run all channels at 100% except for the whites. I run them at 35%, so I get the 14k look. If i run the whites at 100%, they are too much, imo
1 will be more than enough for a 20x20 tank, and you will most likely run them way below full power in a 12" deep tank.
I run all channels at 100% except for the whites. I run them at 35%, so I get the 14k look. If i run the whites at 100%, they are too much, imo
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