Best way to dial back my return pump?

pw154

New member
I have an Eheim 1262 return pump, how can I dial it back a bit to reduce flow? Should I just plumb a ball valve in after the pump's outflow on the return line?
 
That works, however bow does your return come into the tank? Any chance you could place locline on it and shoot it in different directions?
 
I did mine with a gate. IMO it's easier to control the flow than with than a ball. Also, I have heard about ball valves getting stuck (salt, other buildup) and a gate would be easier to break free if that happens.
 
Doesn't restricting flow from the pump cause damage?

Why not add another line with a valve that goes back to the sump, that way you're not restricting your pump but you can reduce the flow into the display tank.
 
Putting a PLASTIC valve on your 'up' line will slow things down: it will not hurt your pump. It's only as if it were having to lift the water higher up. Use plastic hose clamps underwater. You can safely use metal ones above water. Using a valve on your 'down' line can reduce gurgle, but you MUST be sure it never clogs, or you can find your tank overflowing. And during early stages of a tank, and with hair algae, clogs do happen!
 
As others have said, a ball or gate valve will work.

Another option would be to see if anyone locally is looking to trade up and could give you a 1260 or similar pump in good condition and maybe a few bucks too. It could save you a little electricity and you wouldn't have to modify your plumbing.
 
Another option is to purchase the 1260 volute, as 1260 and 1262 are interchangeable, only difference between the two pumps, and the volute is like $10
 
I have a 1260 and dialed it back to match my skimmer pump. I put a "T" half way up the return line and then a ball valve to bleed off some water back to the refugium section. It works nicely.
 
Tee off back to your sump. Why make your pump work harder than it has to? Personally, I would not put a valve on the line down to your sump.
 
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I'd want to take advantage of the extra pump power by plumbing a manifold to, say, a Phosban reactor, calcium reactor, and/or bio-pellet reactor. That would lower the gph by 100-200gph for each reactor.
 
Tee off back to your sump. Why make your pump work harder than it has to? Personally, I would not put a valve on the line down to your sump.

I put a "T" on my return line so that I don't restrict my pump when I match it to my skimmer pump. If you just put a valve on your return line from your pump you are making it struggle. Doing it my way you are just bleeding off some extra pressure back over to the center compartment in the sump. I might not be explaining this right, I'll have to make a diagram. I thought that everyone did it this way.
 
I thought that putting a valve above your pump was just like adding head pressure? Does a pump with 3' of head last longer than a pump with 12' of head?

I may be off, but everybody I have talked too said it was fine to add a ball or gate valve to the top. I still plan to do it on mine lol.
 
I'd want to take advantage of the extra pump power by plumbing a manifold to, say, a Phosban reactor, calcium reactor, and/or bio-pellet reactor. That would lower the gph by 100-200gph for each reactor.

This is the best option IMO. Even if you don't have one NOW, you can always plumb it now and be ready for it in the future. Wish I had done that. I am bringing 2 reactors online and need to alter my return plumbing now! :furious:
 
Pardon my crude diagram. This is what it should look like.
<a href="http://s851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/steamman05/?action=view&current=image001.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/steamman05/image001.gif" border="0" alt="Flow diagram"></a>
 
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