Best way to increse SPS color

well look at the experience level of where your advice comes from. I personally have about 1100watts over my 200g. Two x 400w 20k, 2 x 110w vho and 75w Led.

With the additional T5 you mightbbe ok(would have to see in person). But definitely on the lower side IMO.

Have yiu ever taken par readings?
 
well look at the experience level of where your advice comes from. I personally have about 1100watts over my 200g. Two x 400w 20k, 2 x 110w vho and 75w Led.

With the additional T5 you mightbbe ok(would have to see in person). But definitely on the lower side IMO.

Have yiu ever taken par readings?

I am meeting a member of my local club for a par meter... I have been juggling this for a months now and have been told they were fine but I wanted to see just what kind of par I am pushing... It was going to be the defining moment of whether I was going to go 400's or not... My fixtures will allow me to just by getting bulbs and new ballast... I wasnt wanting to spend the money if I didnt have to but I will if the numbers are low... I am growing clams fine and acros on the bottom at the moment but who knows...
 
I never believed it but a lot is coral genetics... I have two different frags of strawberry shortcake from different places and their colors are way different... same environment... they are still relatively new so we will see what happens over time.
 
I think everyone has really hit it right on the head.

Excess nutrient build up will brown out corals quick. Regular water changes of a decent size, aggressive skimming, and not feeding too much. I try to keep nitrates under 5ppm, 10 max. And phosphates between 0.00 and 0.05. And only test with a decent phosphate reader. You may need to add a refugium or gfo if you can't maintain nutrients otherwise. I have both cuz without them my nutrients go up to high.

Flow wise, 2 mp40's and your returns might be enough. It depends on how you plumbed your returns. With a 250g you have plenty of room to add a few more ph's though and it wouldn't hurt

Then calcium, alk, and mag. Testing ca and kh everyday for about 2 weeks with high grade kits and recording the daily changes can really help. I've dialed it in where I can dose and keep my alk between 8-9.

Lighting wise I think you may be lacking. I have 2 250w on my 75g and have pretty decent color. Even with the t5's 770w for 250 seems low. I'd think you'd need at least 1000w. O check out this link too, good read about your reflectors http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-06/review/index.php
 
I hear ya!

For comparison purposes, I had 1840W of light over my 6' 270G (3x400WMH and 4x160 florescent) - not once did I ever burn a SPS, and I never acclimated them to the light when I added coral.

I decided on 400W based on what others were using, and because it appeared at the time I could not upgrade from them (been there done that).


Thats what sucks about haveing so many people with input on here... One min you have great lighting the next they tell you it sux....
 
I hear ya!

For comparison purposes, I had 1840W of light over my 6' 270G (3x400WMH and 4x160 florescent) - not once did I ever burn a SPS, and I never acclimated them to the light when I added coral.

I decided on 400W based on what others were using, and because it appeared at the time I could not upgrade from them (been there done that).



I am glad to see you guys chiming in though... It has been something that I have been juggling for a while now and I knew that the lights I had were not near as high as I would like. I just may go with a 400 later as I have room to upgrade as we go.

I plan to get the par meter and look at what I have. Then compare and look further into it. I will post what I get and maybe can then get more info about what direction to take.
 
I think we may have found the problem here. Control nutrients and increase lighting. I personally have 2 250w mh over my 75g about 8 inches above the water. Either change the 250s over to 400s or add 2 more 250s and get rid of some of the T5 fixtures. I had a hard time with colors in my 40B with only 1 250 over it, the change to a larger tank with more lighting is part of what brought out colors for me.
 
Okay...So I am going to do the upgrade to 400's.... It will put me at 1070... Its the most logical upgrade I can do at the moment without totally changing my lights... That should get me headed in the right direction. I can always add about 200 more watts later and hit that 5w per gallon that most hit...

As far as par... what ballast per bulb do you think would be best.. it is DE HQI....
 
Other than lighting and clean water what is the tried and true method of getting rich colors.

Be VERY picky about what corals you put in your tank...........not all tenuis for example, are the same. Buy in person as often as possible so you can see a coral at it's best. It gives you best idea of what colors it's capable of.

Some corals no matter what, may not do well in your tank...................get rid of them for something else that gives you what you want.

All the rest is just working with your own system to get it working the best it can be............no two systems will be alike or how they color up corals. There are too many variables to count to have a template on how to have colorful corals.
 
I run Icecap but I am pretty sure they went under. Coral Vue makes some nice dim-able ballasts that is the way I would go and run Phoenix 14k bulbs.
 
I have gotten with a guy in my club that has two Coral Vue Dimmable Ballast and the same pendants I have but SE'd. I plan on getting them after xmas.

My biggest question now that I have gone Single ended 400, what bulbs do I need to get...

People are saying Radiums, other are saying XM I prefer Ushio.... I dunno what ones will be the best on the Coral Vue Ballast.
 
For SE bulbs Radium is the only way to go, best SE bulb out there period. You could have just stuck with the DE pendants though.
 
No I couldnt have... I only have 150 par accross my tank 3/4 of the way down... I want to be able to grow SPS on the sand bed if I want. At best I am pushing 200 throughout the tank with the pendants 16" above the water line. It drops fast from 500 in the upper 6" (where I have nothing at all) to 200 at 12"

The 250s are not going to cut it... I dont want to be limited to Hamilton, and Coral Vue 400w DE bulbs.

For the price of replacing the Ballast I am getting Ballast and the same reflectors but SE. By the time I sell I will break even and this upgrade will not have cost me anything but the bulbs.

As for Radiums.... I will have to try them I guess... Its all everyone is saying.
 
But these are the Coral Vue Ballast you were talking about... The Dimmable ones... 400 wats with the Lumen Bright Pendants...
 

Similar threads

Back
Top