Bio Cube Owner's Thread

Check my list plz

Check my list plz

I have a Biocube, NIB, and I want to make sure I have the correct mods for success... Please check my list:

1.) Blow out the compartment 1-2 restriction for better flow between chambers 1 and 2.

2.) Next, try to put a 'fudge in chamber 2, by taking the black background materile off. Put cheato in this chamber, with a light from in/above/behind tank.

3.) Consider upgrade of standard pump. I plan on Seahorses, so I'll prolly go with a Maxijet 200 to 600. Low flow for the ponies.

4.) No rubble rock in any back chambers, makes a detritus factory.

Q- Are these the suggested (most current) mods for a BC29?

Q- Is there any way to put in an overflow? Or does the tank work well as it is? Should I use LocLine, and add a dual return?

Q- Has anyone noticed large amounts of salt creep on "add on" lights or fixtures? I have a Deltec MCE600 HOB filter, and 3 different light to choose from sitting around the house. I don't plan on useing the stock hood. On my JBJ 24g I get tons of splash on my Sunpod 150hqi. Should I expect the same with a Biocube?

Q- I have an 8g Biocube NIB, that I wanted to use as a quarentine tank. Any suggestions for upgrades/mods you can post or link?

Q- Any other suggestions or mods I've missed? :confused:

-And thanks for any/all replies.

:fish2:
 
I have a Biocube, NIB, and I want to make sure I have the correct mods for success... Please check my list:

1.) Blow out the compartment 1-2 restriction for better flow between chambers 1 and 2.

2.) Next, try to put a 'fudge in chamber 2, by taking the black background materile off. Put cheato in this chamber, with a light from in/above/behind tank.

3.) Consider upgrade of standard pump. I plan on Seahorses, so I'll prolly go with a Maxijet 200 to 600. Low flow for the ponies.

4.) No rubble rock in any back chambers, makes a detritus factory.

Q- Are these the suggested (most current) mods for a BC29?

Q- Is there any way to put in an overflow? Or does the tank work well as it is? Should I use LocLine, and add a dual return?

Q- Has anyone noticed large amounts of salt creep on "add on" lights or fixtures? I have a Deltec MCE600 HOB filter, and 3 different light to choose from sitting around the house. I don't plan on useing the stock hood. On my JBJ 24g I get tons of splash on my Sunpod 150hqi. Should I expect the same with a Biocube?

Q- I have an 8g Biocube NIB, that I wanted to use as a quarentine tank. Any suggestions for upgrades/mods you can post or link?

Q- Any other suggestions or mods I've missed? :confused:

-And thanks for any/all replies.

:fish2:

I think you are off to a good start. I have a BC 14 but I think they are made the same other than size. Might want to take out the false floor in chamber one for better flow. You can add an overflow to a sump it you like but its not really required unless you are keeping something special. You can add locline or a Y splitter to help direct flow. Haven't had seahorses yet so I don't know what kind of flow they need. As far as salt creep I haven't had any problem with it. I may have some where the hood meets the tank up front but it took almost a year to get there. HTH :)
 
picture.php


My 14 at 5 months
 
I have a Biocube, NIB, and I want to make sure I have the correct mods for success... Please check my list:

1.) Blow out the compartment 1-2 restriction for better flow between chambers 1 and 2.

2.) Next, try to put a 'fudge in chamber 2, by taking the black background materile off. Put cheato in this chamber, with a light from in/above/behind tank.

3.) Consider upgrade of standard pump. I plan on Seahorses, so I'll prolly go with a Maxijet 200 to 600. Low flow for the ponies.

4.) No rubble rock in any back chambers, makes a detritus factory.

Q- Are these the suggested (most current) mods for a BC29?

Q- Is there any way to put in an overflow? Or does the tank work well as it is? Should I use LocLine, and add a dual return?

Q- Has anyone noticed large amounts of salt creep on "add on" lights or fixtures? I have a Deltec MCE600 HOB filter, and 3 different light to choose from sitting around the house. I don't plan on useing the stock hood. On my JBJ 24g I get tons of splash on my Sunpod 150hqi. Should I expect the same with a Biocube?

Q- I have an 8g Biocube NIB, that I wanted to use as a quarentine tank. Any suggestions for upgrades/mods you can post or link?

Q- Any other suggestions or mods I've missed? :confused:

-And thanks for any/all replies.

:fish2:

Just a thought, is this going to be a seahorse only tank? Just make sure you research the temperature issues for seahorses. The need below 74 degrees and some species even colder. I'm by no means an expert, I'm actually a newb, but that is something I have picked up through reading.
 
Just a thought, is this going to be a seahorse only tank? Just make sure you research the temperature issues for seahorses. The need below 74 degrees and some species even colder. I'm by no means an expert, I'm actually a newb, but that is something I have picked up through reading.

Yeah, thanks. I didn't mention that I'll be puttin a chiller in place, also. I'll be looking for CB Erectus, I'm told by the seahorse folks they are most hearty. My JBJ would run at 77-78 degrees, without a heater. That's what's been holding me back, until now. Well, that and the commitment;)

I live in Michigan, and we get temp swings up to 75 degrees in a day. Yes, you might live in Michigan if you have to run your AC and furnace in the same day:)

A chiller 1/10 to 1/15 hp will be in place prior to any purchase.

:fish1:
 
So.... what do you recommend that I do use? And in what sequence. Anybody?

Water change = decrease nitrates. 50% wc = 50% decrease nitrates. You can also use macro algae in your media rack with an under water light. I believe In Tank sells them as well.
 
I'm thinking I might want to add some more flow to my BC14. I currently have a maxi jet 900 for the return pump with the stock return. I was thinking of adding the hydor flo water deflector on the output just to randomize the flow, and possibly a koralia 1 for extra flow. First; Do I want more flow? My plan is that this will be a mixed reef tank, but my exact stock hasn't been set in stone yet. Also; I like the look of the vortech mp10, but is it overkill for the BC14?
 
I'm thinking I might want to add some more flow to my BC14. I currently have a maxi jet 900 for the return pump with the stock return. I was thinking of adding the hydor flo water deflector on the output just to randomize the flow, and possibly a koralia 1 for extra flow. First; Do I want more flow? My plan is that this will be a mixed reef tank, but my exact stock hasn't been set in stone yet. Also; I like the look of the vortech mp10, but is it overkill for the BC14?

Really depends on the goal. At the least a koralia nano would work for just about anything you might be doing.
 
We just got a BC 14...been up and running for about a month. I did all the typical mods. Yesterday I took the Hydor Flo off..it just restricts the flow too much, even with the MJ 900 upgrade. I also have a Koralia Nano, but when installing< broke the peg on the back of it. What a horrible design on the nano...I will be getting a K 1 today.
 
I think the nano is perfect size, my sand is shifted around every time I move it and I have dunes--it's not a solid, push your hand away flow but a constant, even flow...
 
Nobody has experience with the vortech mp10? All of the electrical is outside of the tank so no heat is added and it has a small in-tank foot print. It also has several different programs to randomize the flow. My worry is that it might be to powerful because it can peak at 1,575 gph, however it is variable as far down as 200 gph. I'm thinking with the hyrdo flo restricting my output (which I don't really see as a bad thing, more time for the refugium to do it's thing) the MP10 will more then make up for it and provide it's own randomization also.
 
I have a MP10 in my 14-gal BC. It has been great. It is high flow but dispersed so it is not as intense as a powerhead with a nozzle. I have mine set about 50%. It is at the front of my tank about 2 in from the top. I have the return nozzle pointed just over the top. This prevent the MP10 from creating a vortex and sucking down air causing a bubble storm. My tank is all SPS, a couple frags of polyps, and some pulsing xenia in the back. I had to shift my rock work to protect some of the softies from the high current.

Putting the foam screen reduces the flow a little. It gets clogged up fast (about 3-4 days) so you definitely want this powerhead in an easily accessible area unless you do not plan on using the foam.

I keep the settings on Reef Crest random.
 
Water change = decrease nitrates. 50% wc = 50% decrease nitrates. You can also use macro algae in your media rack with an under water light. I believe In Tank sells them as well.[/

I understand how water changes work. I was inquiring about the media rack and how other people were using theirs. Intank does indeed have underwater lights. My concern is the temperature increase that people are experiencing when using them. 2 degrees is more than I can handle.
 
I got the double light and my temps were around 2 degrees higher, which is fine now that it's winter... but houston gets warm in the summer and i would HATE to have to run a chiller. I would suggest an LED submersible light, more $ but smarter... as is the trend.
 
IMO 82 is ok if that is the high for the day. My tank regularly runs from about 78 to 82. I keep an external fan blowing on the tank during the day to keep it at 80.
 
Back
Top