Blueline E-ballast and Aquacontroller

[plaz]

We have 3 250 watt HQIs on blueline e-ballasts (about 2 years old). Several threads site problems with using the AquaControllers with e-ballasts. Have those noise problems been resolved, or are we out of luck?

Thanks!

 

[simon.007]

I use the Direct connect and have no issues. I do not trust the life of my tank to wireless non-feedback control module.

Thanks
Simon

 

[plaz]

Thanks Simon!
I didn't want wireless - didn't realize that was the one with the problems. Do you use the DC Heavy Duty or regular?

 

[Carlos]

For the price difference, get the DC8. It is already a HD connector. I dont know why they still sell the regular DC4s. Not worth the liability if you ask me.

Carlos

 

[simon.007]

I got 1 DC4 and one DC4H (heavy duty) for my chiller and lights.

I want to get a DC8 for the pumps and H2O solenoid + fans +....

Thanks
Simon

 

[jnarowe]

In my case, I can only use 3 Heavey Duty DC4s because my 1000W MH lamps draw too many amps. That's why they still sell the HD DC4.--J

 

[Aquaduck]

The DC4's and DC4HD's still have a useful purpose when you want to switch larger currents. Here are the device ratings:

DC8: Outlet can switch 6A max
DC4: Outlet can switch 8A max
DC4HD: Outlet can switch 12A max

All Direct Connect units have a maximum combined current draw of 15A.

 

[jnarowe]

And so that is why I need $450 worth of power strips! Where's the rope?--J

 

[plaz]

Agreed... the $$$s add up all too quickly!!!

The info on the amps each outlet is able to switch is a big help!
One question related to that:

My chiller is rated at
Electric Power 375 Watt
Cooling power (watts) 790 watt

To understand how many amps that is, would I just take the 375 and divide by 120 (3.1 amps) or do I need to add something to the watts for startup? Or... should I be using the cooling power of 790 watts (6.6 amps) and if so... does anything need to be added to that... ie would it take a DC4 or a DCHD4 for the chiller?

Thanks in advance!

 

[jnarowe]

Doesn't the chiller have the amps on the label?

 

[plaz]

Good thought - but it doesn't. I'll call the place I bought it from tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[jnarowe]

Call the place? Look it up on the net bro...then you'll actually get an answer. Google the make & model, find the manufacturer's web site, and check the specs.--J

 

[plaz]

Tried that. It is a Titan 1500 by Aqua Medic. All the specs I can find just list the 2 wattages.

 

[jpf71]

Open the outer shroud. the specs should be inside.

 

[jnarowe]

Cheater.

 

[plaz]

I talked to Aqua Medic techical assistance. The Titan 1500 is listed at 3 amps. The Technician said to be really safe, use 5 amps (to cover start-ups).

However, I then talked to Neptune. He said those ratings were way too low and to assume 10 amps to cover it safely.... which will mean buying a DCHD4 in addition to the DC8... bummer, but if I decide to use the control for the chiller I don't want to be unsafe!

 

[jnarowe]

PLAZ: First of all, what the hell does a Neptune rep. know about the Titan 1500 that the Aqua Medic Tech. doesn't? I smell a rat!

I am wondering if they aren't trying to unload those DCHD4 units. I would either follow the equipment techs. info. or find the machine info. tag and look for yourself. SOmething doesn't add up, and I am concerned about it since Neptune directed me to get 3 - DCHD4s.--J

 

[jpf71]

Besides, do you really want to trust the unreliability of the aquacontroller (not turning on, turning on and off, not turning off, etc.) I would use a separate controller for the chiller. Aqualogic and Medussa are two great ones.

 

[jnarowe]

That is a good point too. I am trying to bundle as much together as possible so that I can get warnings and controll the system remotely and the III Pro can do that on a wireless connection. That is a primary issue for me. I think over time I will install some back-up sensors to keep everything in line though.--J

 

[Aquaduck]

Measure the inrush current with a current meter. If you don't know how ask an electrician to do it for you.