booster pump for RODI

Do I have to get a certain GPD booster pump? Or do the GPD not need to be matched up with the GPD of my RODI unit?
 
I'd recommend getting one of these:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/1-4-aquatec-8800-booster-pump-kit.html#tab-full-details

I'm on a well too, and my house pressure is too low to run an RO membrane efficiently. These booster pumps aren't rated in GPD, they just boost your pressure to the membrane. They are adjustable, so you can match the pressure output to that recommended for your membrane.

Edit to add: LOL Pseudo beat me to it! Make my recommendation a second.
 
Agree with the Aquatec 8800. When you plumb the booster pump place it between the carbon filter and the membrane. This way the sediment and carbon filters will protect the booster pump from any particles that could damage the pump
 
Thanks everyone!

It's kind of annoying because when I do make water I hook up the RODI unit to the faucet so it's portable. The booster pump is going to make that even more annoying now. I may find a place to install the unit
 
I wanted to comment on a few things in this thread.

Line pressure on houses fed by a well will always fluctuate. Why? Because the well pump is contolled by a pressure switch. The most common switches:
turn on at 30 psi and off at 50 psi, or
turn on at 40 psi and off at 60 psi.
The on and off pressures can be adjusted, with limits, at the pressure switch.

Booster pumps are often specified for a max gpd of the RO system. For example, the Aquatec 6600 is for systems of 50 gpd and less, and the Aquatec 8800 is for systems 120 gpd and less. But yes, the Aquatec 8800 can be made to work with a 150 gpd membrane if you use a vendor that knows how.

Plumb the pump in after your prefilters, and after a strainer. The primary reason to do this is to avoid affecting the prefilter housings with high pressure. The strainer is an inexpensive but effective way to keep any "chunks" of carbon that come off the carbon block from getting to the pump. "Prefilter" = any filter that touches the water prior to the RO membrane. Here's a generic diagram:
Buckeye-Hydro-HP-Booster-Config_zps372b9df8.png


Feeding your RO system from a faucet adapter is a convenient option, but be prepared to loose pressure in the faucet, and through the adapter.

In nearly all situations, avoid using a self-piercing saddle to feed your RO system - there are much better options available. Don't use a self-piercing saddle if you are feeding a booster pump.

Russ
 
Feeding your RO system from a faucet adapter is a convenient option, but be prepared to loose pressure in the faucet, and through the adapter.

In nearly all situations, avoid using a self-piercing saddle to feed your RO system - there are much better options available. Don't use a self-piercing saddle if you are feeding a booster pump

+1

When using a saddle valve the water comes from the pipe through a small hole. I like to use the the cold water pipe going to the washing machine and use a "Y" fitting with 2 valves. One for the washing machine and the other for the RO/DI. You can buy them at Loews or HD
 
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