Brightwell Salt.

OK, I see what Boomer means. I wouldn't count on there being a substantial drop in alkalinity, but if you are getting a lot of precipitate that keeps happening after mixing, then it might drop a bit. I'm not sure that happens once it is fully mixed up and aerated. :)
 
I will say that i am really happy to have a domestic salt choice that does not try to put my Ca at 550 and my dKH at <7 while running a probiotic system.

You might like to look at MEI salt....its made in Maryland, has relatively calm CA, MAG, ALK numbers (closer to NSW) and is the only salt that is certified to be used in EPA testing of marine animals.

http://www.meisalt.com/products/prod_csmm.html

Its also used by:
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, the U.S. Geological Survey Center, the Gulf Coast Research Laboratories, North Carolina State University, University of Arizona, University of Alberta, Canada, University of Alaska, University of Maryland, University of California, University of Delaware, University of Georgia, University of Kentucky, University of Maine, University of Virginia, Cornell University, Rutgers University, University of Rhode Island, University of Kansas, Exxon Bio-Medical Sciences, AMOCO Corporation - Research Lab, Public Aquariums - Worldwide.


I was sold on this salt when they said it was American made...then i read into it and was pleasantly surprised. Ive bought at least 200 lbs of this salt in the past year or so for my breeder tanks, and its always tested well. I have seen almost no variance...which is nice when you are trying to control variables.
 
FWIW, I find the web site for that mix to be irritating to the point that I wouldn't recommend the mix, but that's just me.

On the same page it claims:

"Complete Duplication of Natural Sea Water"
"Offers complete duplication of natural sea water's major, minor, and trace elements
"

and then goes on to say:

"Calcium and other specific items are enhanced over natural sea water "
"Calcium and other specific elements have been enhanced"
"Except for a dechlorinating compound, there are no other additives"

My favorite is:

"Crystal Sea¨ contains only 100% natural elements "

:lol:

OK, I believe that the last one is true. It likely contains no elements made in a nuclear reactor. :D
 
Especially considering that both Crystal Sea mixes I tested measured about the same and both numbers were not even close to natural sea water.

Just more typical marketing hype. We see it time and time again.

Then again, maybe all of those Universities and Agencies know something that we don't. :lol:
 
My nickels worth on this salt :)

I get a charge out of this claim

Crystal Sea¨ is the number-one selling marinemix worldwide in the combined fields of environmental testing, university research, aquiculture, public aquaria, retail dealers, marine fish wholesalers, and marine hobbyists.

I do not know how to take this comment

marinemix worldwide in the combined fields of environmental testing, university research............Yes, because on upon initial mixing and use it causes the least mortalities rates of the seawater health indicator used by all labs, the survival of sea urchin larvae.


public aquaria, retail dealers, marine fish wholesalers, and marine hobbyists.........No, not even remotely close to IO. As far as and especially public aquariums go yes but that was many, many years ago. You look at all of the worlds largest aquariums that are dealing with 20,000 - 8,000,000 gals of seawater they are IO. The new, just opened, CAS Stienhart Aquarium coral reef display, with live corals, which is 200,000 gals is all IO. 3 of the other largest aquariums in the world, on in Minnesota where I live and the other in Alberta Canada, ~1,000,000 gals and the Georgia Aquarium, the largest period @ 8,000,000 gal, are all using IO. Same for the SeaWorld's, 4 of them, that are million of gals each.

.
that both Crystal Sea mixes I tested measured about the same


Billy
That is because they are exactly the same. The only difference is the Bio-Assay has no dechlor in it.

Randy

I have not been to Bob Spellman's website in ages and do not believe he printed what you just showed. That is more or less open mouth and insert foot :)

About this salt which many do not know.

For many, many years the two #1 salts in our hobby where IO and Forty-Fathoms ( now called Crystal Sea Marinemix). The others were HW Marinemix and Marine Environments. 15 years or so ago all of these have fallen to the side, except IO which has rocketed mostly from just more ads and more money to market it an the same for many of the other "new" salts people use now.i.e, Kent, Coral Life , Red Sea, Reef Crystal, etc..and now even the newer ones, i.e, DD-H2O, Oceanic, Tunze. etc.,

Tom Frakes, an old friend of mine and who knows more about seawater mixes than anybody in the world, who for 30 years was Director of Research and Development and Vice President of Aquarium Systems, the IO and RC people, where he developed these salts, once told me in private many years ago, that analytically speaking he always felt Forty-Fathoms ( Crystal Sea Marinemix) was a better salt than IO.
 
FWIW, I find the web site for that mix to be irritating to the point that I wouldn't recommend the mix, but that's just me.

On the same page it claims:

"Complete Duplication of Natural Sea Water"
"Offers complete duplication of natural sea water's major, minor, and trace elements
"

and then goes on to say:

"Calcium and other specific items are enhanced over natural sea water "
"Calcium and other specific elements have been enhanced"
"Except for a dechlorinating compound, there are no other additives"

My favorite is:

"Crystal Sea¨ contains only 100% natural elements "

:lol:

OK, I believe that the last one is true. It likely contains no elements made in a nuclear reactor. :D

I have yet to see one company not advertise there product contains only natural elements...:lol: I guess its something we are all used to seeing.

Especially considering that both Crystal Sea mixes I tested measured about the same and both numbers were not even close to natural sea water.

Just more typical marketing hype. We see it time and time again.

Then again, maybe all of those Universities and Agencies know something that we don't. :lol:


But that's why i like crystal sea, every mix is the same :)
 
For many, many years the two #1 salts in our hobby where IO and Forty-Fathoms ( now called Crystal Sea Marinemix). The others were HW Marinemix and Marine Environments. 15 years or so ago all of these have fallen to the side, except IO which has rocketed mostly from just more ads and more money to market it an the same for many of the other "new" salts people use now.i.e, Kent, Coral Life , Red Sea, Reef Crystal, etc..and now even the newer ones, i.e, DD-H2O, Oceanic, Tunze. etc.,

Tom Frakes, an old friend of mine and who knows more about seawater mixes than anybody in the world, who for 30 years was Director of Research and Development and Vice President of Aquarium Systems, the IO and RC people, where he developed these salts, once told me in private many years ago, that analytically speaking he always felt Forty-Fathoms ( Crystal Sea Marinemix) was a better salt than IO.

This was all my point was.

Someone mentioned a desire to purchase a US made salt that tries to replicate NSW levels. Brightwell is one option (with fuzzy numbers), MEI is another, and i am sure there are more than i can list on both hands and feet :)

In my case, and with my setup i like knowing the salt will always mix up to the same specs. I have breeding pairs of fish, and some larvae...im not concerned with Ca and Mag levels. So long as alk/pH measure up and stay consistent and i can afford to keep using it (which is why i like MEI, its marginally cheaper than IO) im happy :)
 
I ALWAYS say salt is a CHOICE Hy :) And do not disagree with your point at all.
 
It would be interesting if one were to ask the manufacturer if they provide the concentrations of the heavy metals in their salt mix and see if they provide the information. In essence, put their money where there mouth is. :D
 
I am very sorry, I use the cheap test kits. I am using API right now.

I mixed 460 grams of salt in 3 gallons of RO/DI water and got a 1.031 on my refacto.

PH-8.4
KH-9.5,10 It just wasn't there with 9 drops.
Cal-480
I don't have a Mag test right now.

These numbers are after about 2 hours of mixing. I will test again tomorrow if you folks would like.

So, I added water to get gravity down to 1.025 since this is where I run my tank. Re-tested and this is now what my test kit tells me.

PH- 8.2
KH- 7,7.5 Again it just wasn't there with 7 drops.
Cal- 380-400

I have the "bag" so IDK if it is mixed better then a bucket or if I just have a different LOT number. I mixed it for about 4-5 hours on Sunday and I didn't mix it at all yesterday. Since I am home sick today, it has been mixing.
 
Mix a gallon of salt up with ro/di @ 1.026 and let me know what you get for cal, alk and mag.

I can pretty much tell whats up after seeing your numbers. :)
 
Mix a gallon of salt up with ro/di @ 1.026 and let me know what you get for cal, alk and mag.

I can pretty much tell whats up after seeing your numbers. :)


How long would you like it to be mixed? I can hold it for a while or not. Doesn't matter.

Ok, 2:30 PM. 134 grams of salt in 1 gallon of RO/DI.
 
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Ok, 1 gallon at 1.026

Alk- 8
Cal- 400

As I mentioned before I don't have a Mag test. I am a poor reefer.

I hope you get something out of this cause I am lost. The only thing I can think of, is the gravity is getting away from folks. IDK, I am no scientist and I am certainly not a smart person by any means.
 
I'm thinking you need new test kits.

What brand kits for cal and alk and how old are they ?

Age, IDK. I have looked at the bottles for expriation dates but there wasn't anything that made any sense. I looked at the website to get a clue and I couldn't find anything there either.

They are API kits. I have had them a while now and am just about out of tests. So new ones are in the near future. They seem pretty consistant to me. If they are bad, would they be all over the place or would they still be consistant?
 
I'm not quite sure what you mean, but when kits fail, they seem to deliver a consistent, but incorrect, result. So if you run the test three times, you'd get about the same value each time.
 
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