Brown algae problem for 1.5 years now, help

Zwagerman

New member
Hi all,

Since i have changed from a 50 gallon tank to a 120 gallon tank i'm fighting a hard brown algae with some purple/red algae.

I'm lost, tried different technics from cutting back light time, using different algae treatments and changing water every week. Nothing seams to help and i'm reaching the point of giving up this amazing hobby.

see the picture and please any suggestion is welcome.

Greetings Roel Zwagerman from the Netherlands
 

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IMO I would just take out the affected rock. If it doesn't have any livestock on it and boil it. You are gonna have a mini cycle prolly but it will rid you of it completely. That or try garf.org. They sell specific clean up crews for each kind of algaeic problem. Worth a shot also.
 
It's unfortunately also on the sandbed, windows and pumps. I don't think that in this case boiling the stones is going to be effective.
 
It's unfortunately also on the sandbed, windows and pumps. I don't think that in this case boiling the stones is going to be effective.

Search the forum for palytoxin poisoning. Actually, I believe that there is a stickied post in the zoanthid forum. DO NOT BOIL stuff from your tank.
 
Search the forum for palytoxin poisoning. Actually, I believe that there is a stickied post in the zoanthid forum. DO NOT BOIL stuff from your tank.

yes, do NOT boil anything from your tank. Plenty of things that are harmful when inhaled from an aerosol state. Can you get a close up picture of the algae?
 
1.5 years and we beat this stuff all the time, doesnt matter what genus it is, I can kill it and save the tank. Just did for another poster

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2082359&page=54

Read the whole thread, it can save your tank. Worth your time. You need to start with a test rock treatment, not a whole tank treatment. I've outlined this about 20 times in the thread, be sure and read it all to answer your questions then hit me back up for follow up questions not discussed in the thread. Your invader is either a photosynthetic algae, which does respond to what our thread repeatedly shows, or its a bryozoan that wont. Pretty simple to tell by lifting out and treating a single rock. Results will show if applicable in 48 hours.

After reading all 55 pages just to absorb every critical detail that pertains to your tank, the way to join up the thread and get a custom shot free is just post a full tank shot so I can see wall to wall what we have here. I can tell from the pic above we can beat this 95% chance. Pretty good at following through w predictions :)

Good luck in whatever you choose!!
B
 
Thanks all.

@Brandon429, i'm going to read al the pages and tonight i will post some pictures of the tank in this thread.
 
Zwagerman thanks for posting! We really just enjoy the challenge of cleaning these kinds of tanks. Your initial pictures above didnt show sensitive species so I thought this looked promising. I hate for anyone to have to take over an hour to read our drivel lol but truly there are so many details to pick up, if I was a large tank owner thats the investment to make. The best part of the whole thing is there is no big investment of time or risk to your tank to try this. Its so simple. You just lift out your easiest rock you can get to, apply some peroxide to it out of the tank, only on the algae target area, let sit for a few minutes, then rinse off well in clean saltwater from a bucket, and place the rock back in the tank without manually removing any of the target.

The thread shows in tank work and application we may consider after the results of the test rock are shown. Mainly, the read discusses the 5 or so intolerant animals and how to work around them:

-solitary anemones like sebae or heteractis can be stressed
-cleaner shrimp, lysmata, are the most sensitive animal in the reeftank to our technique they must be planned for accordingly
-Xenia are stressed, anthelia cousins
-coralline can be lightened but will grow back
-decorative macros in a sump or refugium for obvious reasons

Let us know of any concurrent treatments you are running such as a new gfo reactor etc


Then for three days we watch that spot...its death rate, the non impact to the surrounding corals will make you at ease with the next set of treatments etc. a single rock test is no particular commitment. If there is anything untoward in that test you don't like, we can stop etc. but I think you are going to like this :)


Zwagerman you know something interesting Ive seen as a repeating pattern in all these posted tank issues? We have been told as reefkeepers than when an invasion happened, there was a water parameter to blame. Getting algae X means X variable was out of whack, so we spend all this time working around the algae and never actually dealing with it directly. We make changes to otherwise acceptable tank chemistry, affecting all the inhabitants, just to follow old school outdated rules that didnt permit us to act on the algae itself. This line of thinking got us up to sixty pages of wrecked tanks so far.

Sometimes, an invasion is a matter of import and nothing else. I can introduce several types of algae such as gelidium to perfect param low nutrient sps tanks and get them infected too. When an invader is present among great water params, we don't stress the tank but getting even lower numbers, we remove the target.

I'm all for nutrient control, and that may work as a fine preventative, but the peroxide technique is a reset button as needed and for many of these tanks it was the only thing that worked. We have a huge chance of fixing this tank and giving you a clean start it will just take some elbow grease and some time.
 
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Peroxide, esp the 35% lab grade has worked great for me. Remember to wear protective eye wear and gloves! Snail armies also help a great deal. Culturing Macros that compete for nutrients is another idea no doubt already mentioned.
Plantbrain is the expert on algae removal (and all things plant). Hopefully he'll see this thread and have something to add.
 
Good call. The first time i got that stuff on my hands accidentally i thought id caused nerve damage

Im for any treatment that one can command well enough to clear the tank. equal successes have been posted with magnesium boosting, marine algae fix, lights out, especially certain tangs, urchins, threads exist for all. you just pick the best one for you and go
 
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Z

Sometimes reefcentral has software issues where I can't see recent posts made to a thread...its happening

So ill try to look again in an hour to see if your post shows. Out in the macro forum this thread is kicked up with your name as the last poster, but when I open the thread there is no post...pm it to me if you can.
 
Because i just started posting on reef central, im not enable to send private messages until i have made 10 post. This is post no. 6, 4 to go :)
 
Zwagerman we are back on now I can see them...

but, Im having to dig through that site to get crucial clues for you since the pics arent a full tank shot taken as of two days ago, they are individual areas of the tank. In your algae problem pics, we see the faint impression of what looks to be lysmata cleaner shrimp tentacles...and then when I click over to the main pics page, I can see him perching in a rock on the back wall, this treatment could kill him if done incorrectly. These are factors to know before we start...now you may ask yourself, how tired are you of the algae? if a 30$ shrimp dies, but your tank is cleaned, is that worth it? there are also ways to treat the tank and not kill him, but they take more work... thats why the long read is worth it.

did you get a chance to read the thread I was curious, I only say that to prevent me from missing critical details like that little shrimpy

your first step is a single test rock, removed from the tank, treated around the coral only on the algae w 3% peroxide from a brand new bottle meant for medicinal use (not hair peroxide for example, or aquaponics peroxide etc)

then you let it sit outside the tank for 2 mins 'cooking' even though it wont bubble much. then you rinse off really well, till its all been cleaned off (the peroxide) and your rock+algae will look the same then you put it right back in the tank. based on how that dies off over 2 days, we move onward. with a good rinse your shrimp cannot die from this method. holler back
 
Hi Brandon

Correct, I totally forgot the pictures of the complete tank. Here are the picture of the complete tank.
 

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we can really work with a setup like that~

your rock scape is not stacked wall to wall, its open and accessible, ideal for this kind of work. The invader is not spread heavily among the substrate its mainly on the pumps and rocks, not terribly overgrown onto corals etc. I cant wait to hear about your test rock work, any rock treated 4 days ago as covered would likely be totally clean of the invader by now, and what we would start watching is the regrowth, if any, then we move on to the rest of the tank. help us get a test rock pic, before and after! I feel confident we can beat this having seen the pics

Your ability to rinse the test rock carefully will determine any issues with that shrimp, but the overall ecosystem can be turned around no doubt and a single test rock will show it. take out a powerhead, pour peroxide from a brand new, unopened bottle of medical grade 3% right all over it, let sit for a minute, rinse that off too and put back in. watch how long it stays clean after all the algae falls off in a few days!

This activity is not different physically than manual scrubbing Im sure you have tried. the difference chemically is that peroxide mangles the photosynthetic machinery of the algae such that it is targeted relatively well, it is a mild biocide that simply kills it while other non target algae/dinos/symbionts arent as readily exposed (corals) since they are embedded in flesh and we know which kinds of coral will tolerate some collateral contact. You do not have sensitive species in that tank that I can see, but we start with the test rock first, and I can be certain there is no risk to your tank if we take this in the controlled steps we've established for the thread.

after the test rock outcome, we move on to discerning your other treatments like GFO filtration, lighting schedule etc to make sure they do not overdrive corals that are undergoing various forms of peroxide application. Undoubtedly, the way you treat this tank is by doing to every rock what you will do with the test rock, thats a zero tank incursion method and most people ignore that plea on the thread and move on to whole tank dosing :)
 
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Even if you wind up not using peroxide be sure and post us follow up pics for whatever you do use, I always like to track any method that works
 
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