brown algae problem - please help!

eaglesrx

New member
Hello,

Okay, I was wondering if someone can help me out. I have a brown, looks like, slime algae problem. It basically started as soon as I started this tank. It's mostly on my one rock, but appears to be spreading to my other rocks, getting on my sand, clam, and some on the glass. There's also small bubbles where the algae is growing. I also noted some other nuisance algae really starting to flourish. Bubble algae is spreading, this dark, short hair like red algae is starting to grow, too. However, the brown algae is the worst.

FYI: I do still have some coraline starting growing on the back wall and all of my SPS are growing and still very colorful.

Most of the rock was transfered from my old tank of 3.5 years. I have also put in 2 small pieces of rubble rock that I had sitting in my garage for 2 months. Both pieces used to be in my sump of my old tank, so there may have been some dye off in my tank currently. However, I placed both pieces in after the algae started (probably when it was still cycling?).

One of the big rocks did have some green star polyp coral that I couldn't get rid of. So, when putting it in my new tank, I placed the rock with the green star polyp face down into the sand bed. Sand bed is about 2 inches.

I have a ton of amphipods running around, which I can see making channels in the sand. Some worms are starting to move through the sand, too, but, it's still early. I added some small bristelworms 1.5 weeks ago. However, I haven't seen them since adding them to the tank. I think my orchid dotty probably has already gotten them.

Each night some of the algae gets cleared, but then it comes right back the next day.

I just tested all of my levels last night:

-ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate (salifert, seachem, and tetra) are all 0
-Alk is around 2.9 (salifert)
-pH is about 8.2-8.4 (salifert & seachem); with my tetra kit, it tested at 8.8!!
-Salinity is 1.025
-Temp is at 79 (on a controller, and on a digital thermometer)
-calcium = 400 (seachem)

I have 28gallon nanocube (closed canopy with an open "sump" or back chamber area that's been up and running for 3 months. So, I think I'm past the cycling stage.

Filtration: I have a crappy JBJ stock airstone driven protein skimmer that pulls out semi-dark tea colored skimmate each day. I also run a bag of Purigen and a bag of Seachem's Seagel (carbon and phosphate remover), which I washed out both on a monthly basis. I'm also growing chaeto macro in my sump (no sand) with 1 mangrove plant growing on top of it. My cheato's growing very slowly, if at all and has a bunch of "junk" or detritus trapped in it. It has some of the classic, red slime alge on it. I run it on a reverse photoperiod. It's in my middle chamber of my nanocube, so there's a lot of flow moving through the macro. Sandbed is a "live" CaribSea sand.

Additive dosing: I dose 15mL of 2-part Bionic once per day.

I have 2 perc clowns, 1 orchid dottyback, 1 common cleaner shrimp, 4 red-legged hermits, 1 electric blue striped hermit, 1 pacific nassarius snail, 1 maxima clam, 3 turbo snails, and 1 fighting conch.

I did have a red striped small brittle starfish in my old tank that got transferred to my new tank. I used to spot him on occasion in my old tank at night. However, I haven't seen him in the new tank at all. Not sure if he died off and is contributing to the algae bloom.

Photoperiod: 150W MH 20k radiums from 12pm to 9:30pm

Feeding: feed formula 1 pellets once a day

Water changes: 5-10% monthly water changes with Nature's Ocean premixed Nutri-Seawater. I did a 20% water change last week.

Top-Off: Walmart's distilled water. Been using this water for years as my top-off, never any problems before.

Okay, so now that you have all of the details, here are my theories on the cause of my algae:

1. Green Star polyp is still dying off

2. Purigen and Seagel bags are trapping too much detritus and it's not being cleaned enough

3. Walmart's distilled water now has phosphate in it

4. brittle starfish died somewhere

5. 2 pieces of rubble rock added during the cycling period is now contributing to the algae bloom

6. Protein skimmer is just not cutting it and I should upgrade to an AquaC Remora HOB skimmer

7. My Bionic dosing is too much b/c my pH is too high?

Okay, theories 1,2, 4, 5, and 6 don't make sense as my ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are all fine. Theory 3 could be the source of my phosphate even though my test kit measured it at 0. I know it's very difficult to measure organic?? phosphate which is the one that algae uses. I'm not sure about 7. I tested pH with 3 different tests. So, I'm somewhat confident that it's not 8.8. But, I'm not sure how, if at all, my pH would contribute to an algae bloom.

Thanks for the help, and sorry for the long story. I'll try to take some pics of the algae, but it won't be until sunday evening or so.

Thanks,
Phu
 
One more thing. I did have a 2nd mangrove plant in my refugium area. However, it wasn't growing at all. Don't think it was quite rotting as it was still green (top part that was out of the water was black, though).

Thanks
 
If you have an algae problem then you have a phosphate problem.
Likely the algae is consuming it as fast as it is being imported so that you don't get a measureable reading for it.

You could be overfeeding the pellets still

rock can take up to six months to fully cure depending on the state it was in when you put it in the tank

You are right distilled water can still have some phosphates in it--test it with the salifert and see.

I would believe the salifert test over the other and that would put you pH normal. I doubt that is part of the problem here

First I would increase my water changes to weekly or not every other week for the next while
Secondly I would add a phosban reactor--the two fishes one will hang on the side easily--i just added one to my 30gal--phosban will take care of any phosphates.
From what alot of other reefers have stated purigen and stuff like that just doesn't cut it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11845687#post11845687 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by eaglesrx
One more thing. I did have a 2nd mangrove plant in my refugium area. However, it wasn't growing at all. Don't think it was quite rotting as it was still green (top part that was out of the water was black, though).

Thanks

mangroves--you need alot of them to really notice any reduction in phosphates and nitrates.

Run the chaeto in the fug with the light on 24/7 for a month or so and you will notice a bigger difference.
 
How is your flow in the tank--you need to have the surface area turbulent and should have at least 20-40 times the tank volume in gph.

The flow into the sump--that's a different story--it should match the output of the skimmer--otherwise unskimmed water is being returned to the tank.

I would not think twice about swapping out the protein skimmer for a remora :)
 
re top up water:
tap water--full of minerals and phosphates etc

distilled water--90 per cent of dissolved substances removed(depending how and who does it can contain copper)

r/0 water--95 per cent of dissolved substances removed

r/0di water--100 per cent of dissoved substances removed

If you have been topping up over the years with distilled water then there is the possiblitiy of dissolved substances accumulated in your tank.

You can be a pocket TDS meter for about 25 dollars and test the water you buy
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11845728#post11845728 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by capn_hylinur
If you have an algae problem then you have a phosphate problem.
Likely the algae is consuming it as fast as it is being imported so that you don't get a measureable reading for it.

You could be overfeeding the pellets still

rock can take up to six months to fully cure depending on the state it was in when you put it in the tank

You are right distilled water can still have some phosphates in it--test it with the salifert and see.

I would believe the salifert test over the other and that would put you pH normal. I doubt that is part of the problem here

First I would increase my water changes to weekly or not every other week for the next while
Secondly I would add a phosban reactor--the two fishes one will hang on the side easily--i just added one to my 30gal--phosban will take care of any phosphates.
From what alot of other reefers have stated purigen and stuff like that just doesn't cut it.

Thanks for the input. I'll test my distilled water. I think one of my club members mentioned that wal-mart distilled water has some phosphate in it. I'll test it when I get a chance.

If my rock is still cycling (even though it was already cured and in my old tank for 3.5 years), would it still release phosphate?

Water changes are key. I'll start increasing.

Phosban reactor: would love to add one, but I feel that if I can remove the source, I won't need the phosban reactor for now.

We'll see. Tahnks!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11845741#post11845741 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by capn_hylinur
mangroves--you need alot of them to really notice any reduction in phosphates and nitrates.

Run the chaeto in the fug with the light on 24/7 for a month or so and you will notice a bigger difference.

Agreed. I'll start running it 24/7. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only reason you run a reverse photoperiod on your fuge is to reduce heat from the fuge light and stabilize pH drops at night. But, running it 24/7 shouldn't harm anything, except possibly increasing temps from the light, correct?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11845783#post11845783 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by capn_hylinur
How is your flow in the tank--you need to have the surface area turbulent and should have at least 20-40 times the tank volume in gph.

The flow into the sump--that's a different story--it should match the output of the skimmer--otherwise unskimmed water is being returned to the tank.

I would not think twice about swapping out the protein skimmer for a remora :)

Oh yeah, I forgot to talk about my flow! 2 MJ1200's and 1 koralia nano. gives me 32x turnover. decent, could be better though.

Yeah, I'm on the fence about the skimmer. The airstone one is still pulling out tea colored skimmate. So, is that enough?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11845832#post11845832 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by capn_hylinur
re top up water:
tap water--full of minerals and phosphates etc

distilled water--90 per cent of dissolved substances removed(depending how and who does it can contain copper)

r/0 water--95 per cent of dissolved substances removed

r/0di water--100 per cent of dissoved substances removed

If you have been topping up over the years with distilled water then there is the possiblitiy of dissolved substances accumulated in your tank.

You can be a pocket TDS meter for about 25 dollars and test the water you buy

Hmm, I'll have to look into a TDS meter. Thanks!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11845853#post11845853 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by eaglesrx
Agreed. I'll start running it 24/7. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only reason you run a reverse photoperiod on your fuge is to reduce heat from the fuge light and stabilize pH drops at night. But, running it 24/7 shouldn't harm anything, except possibly increasing temps from the light, correct?

no you will get a rapid growth of chaeto and phosphate uptake that way

this method is safe for chaeto--but not for caulerpa algae--it will go sexual on you if it gets to much light

I run of 25 watt energy saver bulb--that's all --no heat

IMG_4527.jpg


IMG_4521.jpg
 
hey thanks for the info on the fuge photoperiod.

just curious, how do you have your sump setup? overflow to your protein skimmer, to your fuge, then to the return pump?

Thanks,
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11845869#post11845869 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by eaglesrx
Oh yeah, I forgot to talk about my flow! 2 MJ1200's and 1 koralia nano. gives me 32x turnover. decent, could be better though.

Yeah, I'm on the fence about the skimmer. The airstone one is still pulling out tea colored skimmate. So, is that enough?

your right that is a decent flow

if its pulling out skimmate it is doing its job. I don't know if you would be satisfied with it personally by the description of your tank and everything you are doing--you have a class A tank and I don't think you can say that about that skimmer:)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11846062#post11846062 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by eaglesrx
hey thanks for the info on the fuge photoperiod.

just curious, how do you have your sump setup? overflow to your protein skimmer, to your fuge, then to the return pump?

Thanks,

IMG_4520.jpg


IMG_4519.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11846064#post11846064 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by capn_hylinur
your right that is a decent flow

if its pulling out skimmate it is doing its job. I don't know if you would be satisfied with it personally by the description of your tank and everything you are doing--you have a class A tank and I don't think you can say that about that skimmer:)

Well, I'm okay with the skimmer, sort of. Granted there are better skimmers out there. However, I like the fact that it doesn't require a pump, so it helps to keep my temps down, especially in such a small tank.

Is a tea colored skimmate enough? Should it be pulling out more? It could be darker. I figured if I'm still getting an algae bloom, the current skimmer isn't cutting it. What do you think?

Thanks,
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11846074#post11846074 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by capn_hylinur
IMG_4520.jpg


IMG_4519.jpg

like your setup. Mine's going from overflow, to fuge, to protein skimmer to return pump. would like to switch things around.

We'll see.

thanks
 
have you ever heard of seen or heard your chaeto turning white if running your fuge light 24/7? I've heard some macro algae turns white if running it under continuous lighting.

thanks,
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11859282#post11859282 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by eaglesrx
have you ever heard of seen or heard your chaeto turning white if running your fuge light 24/7? I've heard some macro algae turns white if running it under continuous lighting.

thanks,

that is probably caulerpa algae--when it goes sexual(rapid release of gametes which quickly cloud the water.

I have never had any problem with chaeto with the light on 24/7.

Once I filled my refugium with it--I had to stop the 24/7 light because I was getting some red cyano .
Turning the lights off for48 hours and cranking up the flow through the skimmer got rid of that
Now I run the lights 16 hours a day and once a week crank up the flow through the fuge to clean it out a bit
 
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