Brown Fuzzy Algae

[THolleyH46]

Hi, I've got this brown fuzzy algae growing all over my tank and covering everything. I can't keep it under control, it has killed all my SPS and now other things are starting to perish. I have been changing water regularly and the tests all come up good. Anyone have any experience with this or know how to kill it off? It grows back as fast as I can scrub it off.

 

[ryan_paskadi]

How old is the tank? Has it cycled completely or do you keep adding livestock? Do you feed to much? Do you have a sump? Macro algea?

Tests may be coming up good becuase the algea is feeding off all the nitrogen. Tests are good when there is no visual indication in the tank, but more often you can tell from algea growth and coral growth if your tank parameters are good.

Standard response would be to not add livestock of any kind for atleast a month, better to go longer. Reduce your feeding. Keep up with water changes, Skim wet, Ensure you have proper conditions in your sump for macro algea growth.

 

[jmait769]

Are you adding any additives or over feeding? Is the skimmer adequate for the tank load? What are you using for flow? What are you using for top off (Tap water or RO/DI)? Are you adding Kalk? What is the pH level? Sorry for all the questions but I'm thinking either the top off water is adding excess nutrients to the system or the kalk is if you are using that.

Jay

 

[strayvoltage]

All good questions being asked, but I think it is better to try to identify what it is you have before trying to figure out how to get rid of it. For the most part the treatment will be the same and the cause is probably the same but not always. How about a picture of the bad stuff? When you say all tests come up good, what all are you testing for that is good?

Try a black out for about three days and don't feed the tank, or feed the very least you can for the fish. None of the fish are going to die if they don't have any prepared food given to them for a couple of days.

 

[psuedopimp]

my problem was my ro/di filters were pretty old, caused alot of problems. let us know if you need a specific test that you don't have. the group is pretty good at loaning out their stuff.

 

[pnavarro170]

If i asked a question of importance like this i would have checked or responded already. haha.

 

[deehz]

All of the above questions if answered, can possibly lead us to determining what is possibly going on with your system. You stated that the "test are good". Like Ryan said, the algae is feeding of the nitrogen and nutrients such as phosphates and growing exponentially, this why you are getting a "positive" reading. This is what seems to be happening but cannot be determined. Do you have a DSB, canister filter, filter socks/sponges/floss?

Algae does not need much light to grow. What it needs are nutrients that it can feed on. What I would do if you have fish, is cut your feeding to a minimum, feed your fish every other day and keep up on the water changes. If you can provide more info, that would be great and we could get to the bottom of the issue. Good luck!

 

[THolleyH46]

I have a sandbed, skim wet in the sump and use RO/DI water. I'll take some pictures. I've been reefing for 9 years and I've never encountered this before. Last night, nitrates crept up. Will do another water change tonight/tomorrow. Have to refill the trash can.

 

[THolleyH46]

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[ryan_paskadi]

How old is this set up? Are you using a deep sand bed? When is the last time you changed your bulbs?

Since you have been reefing along time you know we can only make thoughtful guesses as to the problem and how to fix it.

I have had similar looking algae in a system I had. I could not get rid of it, but I think it was becuase my bulbs were old, my skimmer was inneficient and I had a fairly deep sand bed with to much built up detritus. I know that the coral reef bought my whole system and added many of the rocks to their display tank. My issue was not shared by them to my knowledge and they still have some of my rocks and corals in their display.

I have read and understand that a our live rock and deep sand beds can accomodate to over feeding, or a high bioload from over stocking by increaseing the amount of denitrifying bacteria living with in them. Eventually though (1-3 years) there is a build up of organics and inorganics in the sand and rock and your water quality can plummet inexplicably. This is how an otherwise thriving system can crash overnight.

Not sure if that is your problem but it might be.

If you dont narrow down the issue you may want to consider replacing your sand bed or some of your live rock.

 

[THolleyH46]

Its about two years old. The halides may need replacing. The sandbed is there but it's not that deep. I did notice my nitrates were high last night, I will do another water change tomorrow. I also turned the lights out after they went out tonight, so I'll go dark tomorrow and see how that goes. This algae is killing all of my corals, real pain.

 

[strayvoltage]

You should notice a difference after one day with no light, but would notice it a lot more after three days with no light. If you take notice to it I am sure you will se that there is far less algae in the morning before lights on. I could be wrong but that algae is very light driven.

 

[THolleyH46]

Day two with no lights. I guess there's a little improvement but still a bunch of alage. I'll leave it dark for three. In the interim I ordered some new 400w 20k MH bulbs off of ebay. Hopefully those are here by Wedn or so and make a difference also.

 

[strayvoltage]

The new bulbs may help but you will still have to get the nutrients down. A funny thing I have noticed about new bulbs is that they put out more uv and that seems to kill a ot of algae. It is also what can cause problems for the corals if you just turn on the lihgts like always and don't cut back a little bit and work back up to normal.

When you turn the lights back on after three days of being off, make it for only a few hours a day for a week or so then add an hour a day each week for a few weeks.
All of this is of course JMO.

 

[THolleyH46]

Today I started running acitinics only, still have the algae. I have two 96-watt PC florescents/blue that supplement the MHs. I don't think the acitinics will worsen the algae, what do you guys think? I'm going to go ahead and leave the MHs off until I get the new bulbs.

 

[deehz]

Here are some threads that I found that you may want to read. I hope I don't get in trouble for this!!!!:lol2:

http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...ting-pesky-dinoflagellates-cyanobacteria.html

The battle against unwanted algae is a constant one, you for success, you need to attack it on all sides. Since this is a common question, I present by popular demand -

DaveK's Standard Lecture #2 - Algae Control


Algae control comes down to controlling nitrates and phosphates. If you have a problem with algae it is because these two nutrients are out of control. Do not think that just because your test kits read zero or low values that you do not have a problem. In many cases the algae is removing the nutrients and growing. This is why there is a problem.

Here are possible sources of nitrates and phosphates -

Feeding, especially flake food and not rinsing frozen foods before feeding.
Using tap water to mix salt. Always use RO/DI water for this.
"Dirt traps" and "nitrate factories" in the system.
Low quality carbon can leach nutrients.
Low quality salt can sometimes add nutrients. This is unusual today.

Here are possible ways to remove nitrates and phosphates -

Water changes. Change 1/2 the water and you reduce the nutrients by 1/2.
Skimming. Remove the waste products before the biological filtration need to break then down.
Nitrate and phosphate removal products.
Deep sand beds.
Refugiums.
Algae Scrubbers.

Each of these has advantages and disadvantages. Most people that control algae well use many of the above methods.

There are also other items that can effect algae growth rates.

Good clean up crew.
Other livestock that eats algae.
Low general water quality, especially when the readings are off.
Lighting, sometimes you can reduce it, especially in FO or FOWLR systems.
Old light bulbs. Colors change as they age and this can be a factor.
Water flow. More flow will often help keep algae down.
Manual removal. Very important, especially when there is a big problem.
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[jmait769]

Today I started running acitinics only, still have the algae.

I know the pain. I went thru something similar last year. What are the parameters running at now? I hope it is just the light but wonder what process may have caused this? I could never figure mine out completely and decided it was poor circulation, bad bulbs and possibly bad RO/DI filters. Could have been all of these coming together at one time I do not know. Good stuff deehz posted! Hope this works out quickly for you!!

Jay

 

[evanparsons]

What are "dirt traps" and "nitrogen factories" that could be in a system?

What are "dirt traps" and "nitrogen factories" that could be in a system?

"Dirt traps" and "nitrate factories" in the system.

What are "dirt traps" and "nitrogen factories" that could be in a system?

 

[deehz]

What are "dirt traps" and "nitrogen factories" that could be in a system?

Its anything that collects waste and uneaten foods such as: bare bottom tanks, shallow sand beds, rock rubble, media that claims to "eat waste", canister filters, filter socks, sponges, dead zones in your tank due to inadequate water movement, etc. All these collect waste and then the processes of converting that food into NO3, PO4 NH4, NO2.