I have recently had an out break of what I'm pretty sure is bryopsis. I thought it was just hair algae but none of my critters would touch the stuff and it kept getting worse and worse. I have read up on all the stuff on RC I could find on it and a lot of it is quite confusing and contradictory. So the questions I have are these. Is there any animal that will eat the stuff? I was thinking of maybe getting a sea hare and trying that. I have started increasing my mag with the brightwell magnesion and have it up to around 1450 and rising. Is that going to do anything? I've also been pulling out what rocks I can and squirting the weed with hydrogen peroxide. Again is that going to help? My last resort option is to nuke the tank and bleach everything and start over. But my rock has tons and tons of critters and sponges I don't want to lose. Any help would be appreciated. I'm sure all of you that have had this know how frustrating it is. Thanks in advance.
Bryopsis outbreak
- Thread starter twahl
- Start date
speedo2wet
Sharks!!!!
Funny thing is, I am going through this process now too. I finally figured out it was Bryopsis from the feather individual fiber look and there is even a blue hue to the new growth. I placed a chocolate chip star fish in there but have not seen progress except it would rather eat the Aptasia I have. You can put the sea lettuce Nudabranches in there but unless they are big it will grow faster than they can eat. I've learned that after a while this stuff just grows no matter if lights are on or not. I've been told no to use chemicals or bleach. You can try the Mag increase, Some people claim to only use Marine Tech M product. I only dumped my left over 1/4 of a gallon home made mag into the tank and shut off the pumps and have seen a slight difference. My plan is to cook the rocks and here is what I have been told. Take a large garbage can, place all your live rocks inside and fill it up covering the rocks with water from your tank, put the lid on it and let it sit for a month or so in the garage or where ever. This will deplete the nutriants, kill off the bad stuff but keep your rocks alive with good bacteria. Now wash off the rocks with regular water, empty the can (it will smell bad) place the rocks back in, fill it with fresh salt water, place a pump or two and let it run for a week. Your rock should be all clear to be placed back in the tank. I just took all my rock out, moved that coral, scrubed the rock with a tooth brush, washed it off and placed it back in the main tank. I have not done the garbage can yet but in the next few days I will which will also make my tank move much easier than it would have been. This way will also keep your critters and sponges. Keep me posted and yes it is frustrating.
Thank you for your fast reply. That sounds a lot better than completly killing my rock. What do I do about getting the stuff out of my overflows and such. It's not growing on the sand but it is in my sump and growing in and amongst my chaeto. With the rocks removed will the rest of it just die off in the tank? Again I really appreciate your help.
brandon429
Well-known member
it does no good to bleach out a tank when it can just be imported again on any frag. we have to deal with this pest in tank.
both methods, the mg boosting and the peroxide have literally tons of documented success on all major forums. post a full tank shot if you would like and Id like to offer a few details based on what the pics show. it can be hard to fully eliminate from a setup, but if it is bryopsis thats an obligate hitchhiker so once its beaten, it can't come back until the next re import. You nearly have to treat it to beat it, anyone that got lucky with a cuc would not be able to replicate that success for you, chemical options are the best we know of. the largest peroxide use thread on rc is called pico reef pest algae problem challenge thread if you want to search. there is equal success in using mg boosting, both options have pros and cons.
both methods, the mg boosting and the peroxide have literally tons of documented success on all major forums. post a full tank shot if you would like and Id like to offer a few details based on what the pics show. it can be hard to fully eliminate from a setup, but if it is bryopsis thats an obligate hitchhiker so once its beaten, it can't come back until the next re import. You nearly have to treat it to beat it, anyone that got lucky with a cuc would not be able to replicate that success for you, chemical options are the best we know of. the largest peroxide use thread on rc is called pico reef pest algae problem challenge thread if you want to search. there is equal success in using mg boosting, both options have pros and cons.
coralsnaked
New member
Bryopsis can be beaten back out of your tank. IME I have found that the multi prong attack works best. One start reducing Trates and Phates thru less importation and more exportation. Keep them hungry. Second quickly raise the Mg w/ Kent, because it is suspected it is a by product in the Kent that helps w/ Bryopsis eleimination, not really the Mg itself. Raise it quicjkly to 1800 -2000ppm. And it takes a lot to do it. Visit the calculater sites to figure out how much you will need. Still safe for all other critters. Start the manual removal process. If you can remove the rock to do it then do so. Only takes a few minutes out of water and should not hurt inverts or rock itself. The mature bryopsis needs to be removed and the root scrubbed clean. If outside the tank then use a dropper to place some peroxide on the spot. Then rinse w/ saltwater. If not just scrub the root. DO NOT pull this stuff and let it float in tank as it will spread like fire.
After a multiprone attack is complete then keep the Mg up for at least 4 weeks. And it may take up to 3 months. If it regrows then repeat process until it stops coming back.
After a multiprone attack is complete then keep the Mg up for at least 4 weeks. And it may take up to 3 months. If it regrows then repeat process until it stops coming back.
cakemanPA
New member
I brought some into my tank a while back. I tried to boost my mag with other additives to no avail. What finally worked for me was using Tech M. I have no idea what makes it work, but it did. I saw no signs of it working for a week. Then I noticed the bryopsis thinning a bit and some bleaching out. In a week after that, it was gone and has not come back.
Coral that's exactly what I did to make it spread! I only had a little growing on my rocks and around a birdsnest coral and during my last water change I started plucking. Little pieces made it past me and now in less than two weeks its everywhere! I just started reading Brandon's suggestion on the pico reef challenge, WOW. I think I'll be reading that for the next few hours. Over 1000 posts. I also have an algae growing all over my powerheads and back wall. It's fuzzy and short like 1/8" or so. Is that just young bryopsis? My nitrates and phosphates are zero. At least according to my test kits. I'm going to order up some tech m and start using that too. I was told the brightwell was the same but I don't want to take any chances so I will use the known fix. I really appreciate everyone's help.
tylersarah
Member
There are many different types of Bryopsis and Tech M only works on some, it's a luck of the draw. If you search for my "7 month algae battle" thread you can see pictures of how terrible my tank looked. I narrowed the problem down to phosphate leaching Brute containers that I used to hold RO water and once I switched to HDPE plastic containers I increased Mg to 1700-1800 with Tech M for a couple months and most of the algae died. Additionally, I do a weekly 20 gal water change and changed GFO biweekly. A purple stylo began to loose coloration, so I backed off on the Mg before all the algae died, but now that the phosphate level in the tank is <.05 ppm I figure the system will rid of the rest. Currently, my tank looks beautiful! (Well, I think so..)
Moral of the story: test phosphate levels and figure out why you have an algae problem and attack the source, then fix the mess in the tank.
Moral of the story: test phosphate levels and figure out why you have an algae problem and attack the source, then fix the mess in the tank.
brandon429
Well-known member
they needed your statements about brute cans leaching in this thread
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2286012
yes that tank looks great wish it were mine!
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2286012
yes that tank looks great wish it were mine!
Brandon, I've read all of the post on the pico challenge and over the last few days I have been pulling out what rock I can and spot treating with peroxide as in the pico thread. I've also done some underwater spot treatments for rocks I couldn't pull with a syringe. Here's my problem, I am now showing nitrites in my tank. Like .25. I have not shown nitrites or nitrates in my tank for years. My tank is 120 gallon with a 40 gallon sump. Have I killed my nitrifying bacteria with the peroxide? Any help would be greatly appreciated
brandon429
Well-known member
Twahl
Just saw your reply, let me get some clarifying info real quick
Are you using API test kits
There isn't a way for peroxide to target only the group of bacteria that produces nitrite from ammonia, if there is bed kill ammonia will show first. The comparison is akin to using erythromycin in a reef tank, bed kill shows as a recycle in the tank. And, these bacteria don't die and stay gone, they replenish quickly, at these temps in the order of every 20 minutes.
Post a full tank shot, that gives needed details
As you can see from the thread, filter bed loss is not part of our range of treatments although I'm not sure how peroxide in solution affects colorimetric test kits.
How much (milliliters) were you using for the in tank doses and how often? It would be very hard to surpass what some of our heaviest dosers were doing in the thread
If you do show ammonia, at .25, again I'm thinking API testing and the full tank shot will easily show in fish behavior and polyp extension details. Fret not
I bet we will be just fine. Lemme know!Thank you for the quick responses. Yes I am using the API test kit. I'm rinsing all of the rocks that I can get out before they go back in. It's the ones I couldn't pull that would have introduced the peroxide to the tank. I was using a 5ml syringe and maybe used that 5-6 times under the water. I have ordered 2 gallons of tech-m from foster smith, who happen to have it on sale now for $22 a gallon, but I also ordered my kids a 29 gal biocube with it so it has to go ground and won't be here for a week. If I add some cycle or one of the other bacteria boosters do you think that would help? Or should I just not sweat it since I'm still showing 0 on ammonia? The peroxide is working awesome and killing the stuff off pretty good but there are spots I can't get so I'm hoping the tech-m will finish it off. I don't really have a lot of it to begin with but I've seen the pics of those that have it out of control so I'm hoping to nip it in the bud. Thanks again for everyone's help. I live in a remote area of our state and have no where else I can turn for help so you guys are a godsend.
brandon429
Well-known member
Go ahead and use the tech m its no problem, no bottle bac needed you are fine. As long as you zap it clean with either method its fine, I used to lift out rocks or drain my tank down and burn it off with gas grill lighters lol
Your cycled tank is a permanent source of mixed species nitrifying bacteria it will never need boosting as long as you have it unless you dose antibiotics for fish disease, which is always done in qt tanks for that reason. Let us know when you beat the rock lettuce it can be a tricky battle sometimes
The dose of peroxide you used is no problem.
Your cycled tank is a permanent source of mixed species nitrifying bacteria it will never need boosting as long as you have it unless you dose antibiotics for fish disease, which is always done in qt tanks for that reason. Let us know when you beat the rock lettuce it can be a tricky battle sometimes
The dose of peroxide you used is no problem.
Update.... So I have been treating with the tech m for almost two weeks now. I have kept my levels upwards of 1800+ though I had to go out of town for a few days and my wife let it get down to about 1700. It's up over 2000 now and I am seeing new growth!! I even have the stuff growing back on the birdsnest and live rock that I treated with peroxide. Do I still just need to have more patience and keep up with the tech m. I have used a gallon and a half already. Should I pull what I can again and treat with peroxide? I'm getting way frustrated. I wish I could figure out what makes this stuff so indestructible and apply that to my lawn!!
speedo2wet
Sharks!!!!
Check out the other bryopsis thread, I've got some posts on there. The problem w bryopsis is that once it becomes asexual it does not need nutrients or light. It's nasty. In a nut shell I increased my mag (randy 2 part), basically threw in a half gallon. Took out the rocks and scrubbed with a toothbrush and washed the rocks. I would suggest not to pull the stuff out while its in the tank unless all pumps are off and you can syphon every bit of it out. Then get a few nudibranches to eat it- they will. Now my rocks are cleaned off and bare. It's a horrible battle my friend.
speedo2wet
Sharks!!!!
DopeCantWin
Active member
I wouldn't. I just had an outbreak in my 210. I threw in some Tech M. I didn't even raise it enough to actually have to test it. I figure it went to 1500, probably less. I think you need to solve your other issues before wasting any more money on Tech M. I'm running a large Skimmer and Chaeto in the sump. What's your pH? I couldn't solve this issue this easily in my 90 which had a sand bed, creating a great place for crap to be stored. Just a thought...
brandon429
Well-known member
you have the option to retreat or let it progress, we don't promise a one off kill just a control method. anything that accomplishes a total eradication of bryopsis was lucky, or everyone would just use that method and get the same results. have to keep experimenting with whichever you like.
DopeCantWin
Active member
Could you get a close up picture so we could confirm it's Bryopsis?
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