Will
Premium Member
First let me just say that this method is VERY risky, and it can result in the loss of many, many organisms. Please do not even consider trying it unless you are ready to succumb completely to Bryopsis. This is just my experience, and I only observed it in two aquariums. It may have just been good luck, so please do not attempt this unless it is as a last resort!
This summer, I had some pretty major problems with Bryopsis. I'd had it for a good year or so I guess, and it was reaching the worst that it had ever been, especially in my Caribbean biotope (which is unforunate, because the Bryopsis that was infecting the tank came from Indo-Pacific rock!). I struggled with pulling it out manually, and I increased my water changes, and I tested, tested, tested... Everything that is ever suggested for Bryopsis. Even bought a tang, conch, nudibranch... Nothing really worked until we moved.
Both of the tanks were moved about 10 miles to my new house. This new house is larger than the old one, and that got my parents paranoid about running the air conditioner a lot (yes, crazy ain't it?). My tanks unfortunately had a few days of well above 90 degrees F (probably nearing 95). Yes, I lost a lot. Actually I lost every Acro, a lot of softies, and pretty much anything not hardy as hell. It sucked, but I'm over it.
Anyway, I did notice one thing... All of the Bryopsis in both tanks over a few days turned whitish and began to come loose from the rocks. I collected it each day, and low and behold, the Bryopsis was gone! Every bit of it from both tanks, completely disappeared. Still hasn't returned to this day, and that's been about 4 months.
So, it's my theory that Bryopsis has a relatively low threshold for unnacceptable temperature range. Over sustained high temperatures, Bryopsis died in my case. I don't know if that is the case for all species, but it was for mine.
If someone wants to try this method of Bryopsis removal. I suggest removing ALL of the delicate tank inhabitants (Fish, corals, inverts, etc. Basically everything but the rock and sand if you really want to be safe.) before attempting the procedure. Then when everything delicate is removed, raise the aquarium's temperature to around 92 degrees F and let it sit like that for three or four days. I guess the exact temperature and duration are something that would need to be played around with, but hopefully this will work for others.
Once the Bryopsis does die, it'd be a good idea to perform a few large water changes, to add some carbon, and to skim vigorously. Always a good idea to keep the nutrients low if you can (some say excess nutrient levels are the cause of Bryopsis in the first place, but I strongly diagree; those who have struggled with Bryopsis know it is relentless even in good water quality).
Hopefully this will be of use to those of you who are at wit's end with Bryopsis. It's bad stuff, but this method worked for me and may work for others. Like I said though, it's something bordering radical, and it has not been tested scientifically or anything. Just a bit of anecdotal experience that can hopefully benefit others who have struggled with Bryopsis like I did for so long.
Good luck and happy reefing,
-Will
This summer, I had some pretty major problems with Bryopsis. I'd had it for a good year or so I guess, and it was reaching the worst that it had ever been, especially in my Caribbean biotope (which is unforunate, because the Bryopsis that was infecting the tank came from Indo-Pacific rock!). I struggled with pulling it out manually, and I increased my water changes, and I tested, tested, tested... Everything that is ever suggested for Bryopsis. Even bought a tang, conch, nudibranch... Nothing really worked until we moved.
Both of the tanks were moved about 10 miles to my new house. This new house is larger than the old one, and that got my parents paranoid about running the air conditioner a lot (yes, crazy ain't it?). My tanks unfortunately had a few days of well above 90 degrees F (probably nearing 95). Yes, I lost a lot. Actually I lost every Acro, a lot of softies, and pretty much anything not hardy as hell. It sucked, but I'm over it.
Anyway, I did notice one thing... All of the Bryopsis in both tanks over a few days turned whitish and began to come loose from the rocks. I collected it each day, and low and behold, the Bryopsis was gone! Every bit of it from both tanks, completely disappeared. Still hasn't returned to this day, and that's been about 4 months.
So, it's my theory that Bryopsis has a relatively low threshold for unnacceptable temperature range. Over sustained high temperatures, Bryopsis died in my case. I don't know if that is the case for all species, but it was for mine.
If someone wants to try this method of Bryopsis removal. I suggest removing ALL of the delicate tank inhabitants (Fish, corals, inverts, etc. Basically everything but the rock and sand if you really want to be safe.) before attempting the procedure. Then when everything delicate is removed, raise the aquarium's temperature to around 92 degrees F and let it sit like that for three or four days. I guess the exact temperature and duration are something that would need to be played around with, but hopefully this will work for others.
Once the Bryopsis does die, it'd be a good idea to perform a few large water changes, to add some carbon, and to skim vigorously. Always a good idea to keep the nutrients low if you can (some say excess nutrient levels are the cause of Bryopsis in the first place, but I strongly diagree; those who have struggled with Bryopsis know it is relentless even in good water quality).
Hopefully this will be of use to those of you who are at wit's end with Bryopsis. It's bad stuff, but this method worked for me and may work for others. Like I said though, it's something bordering radical, and it has not been tested scientifically or anything. Just a bit of anecdotal experience that can hopefully benefit others who have struggled with Bryopsis like I did for so long.
Good luck and happy reefing,
-Will
