Building My 375gal Glass Reef

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13502050#post13502050 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 46bfinGA
Can you post a link to the Stanley door hardware that you purchased??? I did a quick search and did not find the same system you are using to slide the rack out of the way.
McMaster-Carr - part no.: 1223A33. If I had to do it over again, I'd order 1223A8 - same thing with 150lb rating and half the price.
 
I did a little tinkering with the Reeflo Dart needlewheel pump that drives my ORCA 250 skimmer's air. After hearing so much about the amazing increase in air flow it provided, I purchased a custom needlewheel for the ORCA and decided to mount it on the pump. The new NW was engineered by Mike Leonard (Acropora Nut)) of reefspecialty.com. Quite a beast:

New-NW.jpg


I had some questions before I proceeded with the change, so I talked to Mike and got his input. I thought after having gathered all the info, I might as well document a little of how it's done. First thing I did was remove the pump head from the motor:

Opening-Volute.jpg


The stock NW is quite a bit smaller than the one from Reef Specialty and just doesn't look as "mean":

Old-NW-On-Pump.jpg


The NW is mounted on the pump using a long "bolt" that runs axially through the center of the motor. Its exit, at the back of the motor, is evidenced by a fairly beefy head with slit:

Back-Of-Pump.jpg


To remove the old NW - grip the NW with one hand and, using a good sized flathead screwdriver, turn the bolt in a counter-clockwise direction until the NW is loose. Then just spin it off:

Back-Of-Pump-with-SD.jpg


Old-NW-Removed.jpg


More to follow ....
 
At the center of the old NW, you'll find a white ceramic (looks ceramic to me) bushing. It must be removed as it will be used for the new NW:

Old-NW-Center.jpg


The bushing must be removed carefully so that it doesn't chip or crack. That said, removal is simple. Just use a little care. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, grasp the bushing at its edge with the pliers vertical to the face of the NW. Gently rock back and forth while keeping a little pressure on the bushing with the pliers. The bushing will loosen and can then be removed:

Washer-Removed.jpg


Once you have removed the bushing you'll notice it has a rubber grommet around it. This helps it seat in the recess. Place the bushing in the new NW and carefully press it down into the recess with your thumbs. Make sure the bushing is seated all the way into the recess - you can feel when this happens:

Ceramic-Washer.jpg


Take a little silicone grease a smear it on the face of the bushing:

Putting-On-Grease.jpg

Silicone-Grease.jpg


Place the NW on the pump and tight using a flathead screwdriver. Don't make too tight -just until the bushing makes contact with the mounting spring, then 3/4 turn more. All done:

New-NW-Installed.jpg


Replace the pump cover and you'll be good to go ....
 
Thanks for the step by step instructions. That is very helpfull. I have been thinking about changing out my NW with a new one , either that or trying some mesh on the existing one.
 
Great stet by step images.

Mesh is not a good idea with these pumps. I know first hand and have tried different mounting wheels and thicknesses, etc. They just don't last long spinning at such a high rpm. Anyways the NW pulls more air than any mesh prototype I tried and even less turbulence.
 
Tom,
I am so glad I found your thread! :D

We have a lot in common, we too are building a fish room our is 8'X18' I wish it could be a little wider also, but we are at the building property line :(
and our tank is the same size as yours!

You have given me a lot to think about on the lighting.

I LOVE the light frame you built.
This is EXACTLY what I want my husband to build for our new system.
I have been trying to explained to him what we needed.
Now your frames build is what he understands in man terms!! :lol:
Thank you for all the links to where you purchased your material too.
That made it easy for me to go shopping for what we needed to buy :p

did you by chance happen to create a cut list?
 
46bfinGA, Reeforbust - thanks for the compliments. It’s much appreciated.

JRaquatics - thank you Sir. I’ve been following your posts on the ORCA thread. I agree with you completely. There is nothing mesh could do for an ORCA.

edandsandy - thanks for the kind words. I am so jealous of your extra foot. ;) Eight feet instead of seven must be paradise. Sorry, I threw the cut list away â€"œ but I can tell you what I ordered:

4 X item 100-300-C
10 X item 100-304-C
2 X item 100-312-C
6 X item 100-120-4
6 X item 100-150-4

Let me know if you are going to be using LumenBrights. There are some hints I can give you if you really intend to make a frame similar to mine.
 
GlassReef,
thank you so much, this will defiantly get us started!:D

YES, We are interested in the LumenBrights, any hints will be appreciated!

Our tank will be here in 2 weeks, the fish room will be dried in by the middle of next week, so I will be ordering a lot of material in the next few days.
Thanks again!
 
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Tom... I have been following your thread. All I can say is "Amazing". Your attention to details is just impressive.

Just one question for you. I see you are using Lumenbrights. I was wondering how is the spread? Are you getting full coverage front to back on your 36" tank? If yes, how high are they off the water line?
 
GlassReef,

I just received my LB Mini Pendants this week. After seeing your fantastic build I now know how I want to build my lighting frame. I would love to hear about the hints for mounting the LBs you spoke of.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13513352#post13513352 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Typhon
I see you are using Lumenbrights. I was wondering how is the spread? Are you getting full coverage front to back on your 36" tank? If yes, how high are they off the water line?
Thanks for your compliments. To be honest, I can't yet give any definitive answers regarding coverage. My tank hasn't arrived yet.:(

I have measured light "drop off" with my PAR meter. I placed a large (20"X20") LumenBright reflector over a small 48" dia. plastic swimming pool (filled to 10" with water - the max it would hold) so that the bottom of the 400W 12K bulb was 16" over the surface water. By no means a scientific experiment - but I measured an 3% drop off at 12" from the center and an 13% drop off at 18" from center (both measuements at 10" water depth). I chose a 16" height as that is the height I intend to set my reflectors (the bulb, actually) over the water. I don't consider the results to be a problem at all. I'm rather pleased actually.
 
QUOTE:
I found some aluminum rails (made by Stanely). They’re used for sliding closet doors, etc. They come complete with rollers and hardware, and are rated for 250lbs.

how many of these did you order?
 
Thanks for the info. I am planning to use the Lumenbrights over my new 520g Inwall tank.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13513492#post13513492 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GlassReef
Thanks for your compliments. To be honest, I can't yet give any definitive answers regarding coverage. My tank hasn't arrived yet.:(

I have measured light "drop off" with my PAR meter. I placed a large (20"X20") LumenBright reflector over a small 48" dia. plastic swimming pool (filled to 10" with water - the max it would hold) so that the bottom of the 400W 12K bulb was 16" over the surface water. By no means a scientific experiment - but I measured an 3% drop off at 12" from the center and an 13% drop off at 18" from center (both measuements at 10" water depth). I chose a 16" height as that is the height I intend to set my reflectors (the bulb, actually) over the water. I don't consider the results to be a problem at all. I'm rather pleased actually.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13519729#post13519729 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by virginiadiver69
Tom, is the new NW for the 250 only or could I put one on my 200?
It's for the 250 only. Mike (reefspecialty.com) is working on a NW for the 200, should be done soon. You would have to have the larger collection cup - these hot rod needle wheels produce so much air they blow the tops off of normal sized cups.
 
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