Building My 375gal Glass Reef
- Thread starter GlassReef
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virginiadiver69
New member
This thread is being saved in my "tank builds" favorites folder. I'm planning a build myself and I'm stealing...er, I mean borrowing your light frame design.
Brandan
Member
Wow. Talk about immaculate work. . . I think when/if I set up my 400gallon I will do a light rack that is similar to yours, the whole setup is very reasonably priced and looks very clean. Do you notice any flexing even with all of the weight? I am tagging along for this one! Can I ask what you do for a living, your craftsmanship is very nice!
Brandan - thank you. No there is no flexing at all. The aluminum tubing I used is very rigid. When I lived in Europe, I built a stand for my 240gal using it. I'm retired - I couldn't afford this hobby if I had to buy gas to go to work. 
Used to be part owner of a software company.
Used to be part owner of a software company.
tigerarmy40
New member
any chance you could post or send me a link to the company you went with to purchase the light rack material! that is some pretty cool stuff
Wow Glassreef, your tank is crazy big, I love it!
Thanks for giving me a link.
Thanks for giving me a link.
tigerarmy40
New member
oops, saw it on previous page! thanks
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Tom
Again I am amazed at your planning and execution of this light hood. You obviously thought everything out in advance of buying materials and starting the build. Great job. I have one question. I am planning to use the Aqua III but I will have a basement equipment room. I am assuming that to control the PH. water top off, pumps etc the controller will have to reside in that room. If I want to control the lighting with this unit as you did, what's the limitations on how far away the power block can be from the controller? Also do you intend to use the Aqua III to monitor the high level in your tank? The one thing I am afraid of is the overflow getting blocked by a snail say, and the return pump continuing to run and flood my sun room :eek1: :eek1: :eek1: . What are your thoughts on this scenario?
Thanks
Alan
Again I am amazed at your planning and execution of this light hood. You obviously thought everything out in advance of buying materials and starting the build. Great job. I have one question. I am planning to use the Aqua III but I will have a basement equipment room. I am assuming that to control the PH. water top off, pumps etc the controller will have to reside in that room. If I want to control the lighting with this unit as you did, what's the limitations on how far away the power block can be from the controller? Also do you intend to use the Aqua III to monitor the high level in your tank? The one thing I am afraid of is the overflow getting blocked by a snail say, and the return pump continuing to run and flood my sun room :eek1: :eek1: :eek1: . What are your thoughts on this scenario?
Thanks
Alan
IridescentLily - Thanks - that's very kind.
EnglishRebel - Mornin' Alan, thank you for the kind words.
Neptune states that the DC8 should be connected using a cable no more than 10' long. That said, I will be using a cable that is at least 25' long to control my lights. I have "manufactured" my own cable using CAT5E twisted pair data cable. I went to Home Depot and bought a crimper for 4 strand (Western Digital type) telephone connectors (the same connector used on the ACIII) - think it cost about $10. I also bought some CAT5E cable and a few telephone connectors.
When you open up the CAT5E, you'll find pairs of wires which are twisted together. You can be sure of the pairs because they are color coded by pairs - usually 1 solid blue (for example) and 1 striped blue. You only need to use 2 pairs for your controller cable (any 2). Just strip back the cable 1/2" and untwist the 2 pairs you've chosen (you can cut back the unused wires). Note that you should not strip the insulation off the individual wires you will be using. Flatten the 4 (untwisted) wires with your thumb and forefinger, and insert then into a telephone connector. Insure the individual wires are seated in the connector. Then, just use the crimper to fasten the connector to the wires. Do the same thing on the other end of the cable - just make sure that the wires are placed correctly - using numbers instead of color, for simplicity - if the wires on one connector are 1234, they should be 4321 on the other.
To get a feel for the dependability of such a cable, go to the Neptune sponsor forum, here on RC and search for CAT5E. You'll get plenty of ideas.
As for level control: I won't be controlling the high water level of my tank using the ACIII (only because I decided to go in a different - not better direction), but I will use the ACIII to control the low water level of the sump. Using a ACIII breakout box and a float switch, I'll monitor the water level in the sump. When the water level drops below the switch the controller will turn the return pump off.
EnglishRebel - Mornin' Alan, thank you for the kind words.
Neptune states that the DC8 should be connected using a cable no more than 10' long. That said, I will be using a cable that is at least 25' long to control my lights. I have "manufactured" my own cable using CAT5E twisted pair data cable. I went to Home Depot and bought a crimper for 4 strand (Western Digital type) telephone connectors (the same connector used on the ACIII) - think it cost about $10. I also bought some CAT5E cable and a few telephone connectors.
When you open up the CAT5E, you'll find pairs of wires which are twisted together. You can be sure of the pairs because they are color coded by pairs - usually 1 solid blue (for example) and 1 striped blue. You only need to use 2 pairs for your controller cable (any 2). Just strip back the cable 1/2" and untwist the 2 pairs you've chosen (you can cut back the unused wires). Note that you should not strip the insulation off the individual wires you will be using. Flatten the 4 (untwisted) wires with your thumb and forefinger, and insert then into a telephone connector. Insure the individual wires are seated in the connector. Then, just use the crimper to fasten the connector to the wires. Do the same thing on the other end of the cable - just make sure that the wires are placed correctly - using numbers instead of color, for simplicity - if the wires on one connector are 1234, they should be 4321 on the other.
To get a feel for the dependability of such a cable, go to the Neptune sponsor forum, here on RC and search for CAT5E. You'll get plenty of ideas.
As for level control: I won't be controlling the high water level of my tank using the ACIII (only because I decided to go in a different - not better direction), but I will use the ACIII to control the low water level of the sump. Using a ACIII breakout box and a float switch, I'll monitor the water level in the sump. When the water level drops below the switch the controller will turn the return pump off.
acropora nut
Member
Hi Tom,
The lighting rack look's amazing... Great job on the tank build and we need MORE PIC's!!!!
Mike
The lighting rack look's amazing... Great job on the tank build and we need MORE PIC's!!!!
Mike
acropora nut
Member
Tom,
Call me anytime...
Mike
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
I guess I didn't understand how the power bricks work. I now see that you just plug them into a regular outlet and the CAT V cable provides the communications for switching. I guess their 10' recommendation was because of possible data loss over greater distances. I will certainly check out the Aqua forum.
Thanks
Alan
Thanks
Alan
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Thanks for the clarification as I thought it was a data loss issue.
Alan
Dudester
Premium Member
I am very pleased to have found this thread. My new system will be very similar to yours, and I'll be following this with interest. It seems as though you've 'stolen' ideas that are still in my head 
.
I really like your "umbilical cord," what material is that made of?
This is going to be spectacular! What am I saying ... it already is.
.I really like your "umbilical cord," what material is that made of?
This is going to be spectacular! What am I saying ... it already is.
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