Building My 375gal Glass Reef

As always, this thread is one that keeps everyone's attention riveted to it. Thanks for the detailed explanation on both the reactor and your overflow.

I've been on your site for a while now and I can tell you it is really well done. Since you have such an amazing tank, it's really nice to see a site dedicated to giving some information about it and helping others achieve similar results with detailed instructions.

Kudos on the site Tom.
 
How long have you had the gutter guard in front of the overflow? The reason I ask is that I have heard that it quickly becomes overgrown with algae (a la ATS) and blocks the overflow.

Thx,

Dave.M

I agree with Mark (mpoletti), it's not really a problem. I do have a little coraline growth on mine, but I can just pop it out and scrub it with ScotchBrite. Takes 2 minutes. The straight glass in conjuction with the Gutter Guard is really the best overflow combination I've used.
 
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As always, this thread is one that keeps everyone's attention riveted to it. Thanks for the detailed explanation on both the reactor and your overflow.

I've been on your site for a while now and I can tell you it is really well done. Since you have such an amazing tank, it's really nice to see a site dedicated to giving some information about it and helping others achieve similar results with detailed instructions.

Kudos on the site Tom.

Well thank you very much, Mark (mseepman). That's very kind. Although I thoroughly enjoy working on the site, I do feel guilty for not paying as much attention to this thread as I probably should.

I have plans for a few cool articles on the site. I'll be doing a really in depth page on a RO/DI ATO. Step by step with detailed wiring diagrams, part lists, etc. Should be possible for those hobbyists with absolutely no knowledge of electronics to build one- no problem.

I'm also planning to go heavy on videos for the DIY projects. Also, I've noticed that a lot of beginners get a little confused when it comes to using test kits, so I thought I'd make some videos showing exactly how to it done, including titration, etc. Should be fun and, I think, useful.
 
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It's great to have you back at RC like I said earlier your the man. I've learned allot and I thank you for all the time you have put into this thread and for sharing your knowledge.:celeb3:
 
Thanks guys - very much appreciated.

BTW: I may have a little good news. I've been doing everything possible to to get my 'trates and 'phates down as close as I can to zero. I'm running large amounts of GFO and changing it out often. I've had bio-pellets (EcoBak from Jon Warner) on-line for about 6 weeks.

Looks like it might be paying off - I'm sure I'm seeing a die back of my dinos! Too soon to know if it's going to continue, but I've got my fingers crossed. :)
 
Tom,
I know you already posted this, but, what's your website address so I can follow you along there too?

Thanks
 
Thanks guys - very much appreciated.

BTW: I may have a little good news. I've been doing everything possible to to get my 'trates and 'phates down as close as I can to zero. I'm running large amounts of GFO and changing it out often. I've had bio-pellets (EcoBak from Jon Warner) on-line for about 6 weeks.

Looks like it might be paying off - I'm sure I'm seeing a die back of my dinos! Too soon to know if it's going to continue, but I've got my fingers crossed. :)


I have my fingers and toes crossed! :thumbsup:
 
Greenmaster - thanks! Compliments always welcome.:)

JASON L. - If your talking about dinoflagellates, I don't really think any of us know for sure. Other than keeping your nitrates and phosphates (nutrients, in general) as low as possible, there no sure fire ways to avoid them. Sad, but true.
 
Tom,
Just went through your whole website and I can only say, WOW!

Congratulations, all the information provided and the easy navigation make a guest really welcomed, also loved the tank status page, well done.

Take care.
 
Thanks Juan Pablo. Nice to hear. I'm starting to get quite a few hits a day now. I hope it continues to grow. I'm working on a Word Press based comments system. Should be done soon.
 
I couldn't tell you how many times i have looked through your threads (from the beginning) and loved every bit of it!!!

Now,
How are the DINO's going?

my LFS has 2 frag tanks that they had a sand substrate in for years, and they did a full overhaul. now they are bare bottom with black egg crate. They began to have Dino's and fought and fought and never could get them to go away. they pulled the egg crate out numerous times and tried everything. this past week, they replaced the existing 250 and 400w 12k reeflux bulbs with new 12 k bulbs. this time, they dimmed the ballasts and yes, it makes the 12k's look blue, but all the dino's went away!!! the reflection from the bare bottom and the 100% bulbs, were making the problem worse. they cut back the intensity and everything went away!!!

i know you run the same dim-able ballasts and if you are at wits end and would like to try the dimming of the ballasts to see if it works for you, then have at it.
your running 4-400's with Fantastic reflectors (which is pumping some light in the tank) as well as 8 t5's which is also pumping in the light.
so your tank should still survive with the ballasts dimmed. especially with the 400's on a 24" tall tank and being soo close to the water.

like i said, its worth a try if you would like to. (plus it doesnt cost any money)

just another opinion


and great thread by the way. (love the website as well)
 
...my LFS has 2 frag tanks that they had a sand substrate in for years, and they did a full overhaul. now they are bare bottom with black egg crate. They began to have Dino's and fought and fought and never could get them to go away. they pulled the egg crate out numerous times and tried everything. this past week, they replaced the existing 250 and 400w 12k reeflux bulbs with new 12 k bulbs. this time, they dimmed the ballasts and yes, it makes the 12k's look blue, but all the dino's went away!!! the reflection from the bare bottom and the 100% bulbs, were making the problem worse. they cut back the intensity and everything went away!!!

i know you run the same dim-able ballasts and if you are at wits end and would like to try the dimming of the ballasts to see if it works for you, then have at it.
your running 4-400's with Fantastic reflectors (which is pumping some light in the tank) as well as 8 t5's which is also pumping in the light.
so your tank should still survive with the ballasts dimmed. especially with the 400's on a 24" tall tank and being soo close to the water. like i said, its worth a try if you would like to. (plus it doesnt cost any money)

That's an interesting idea, thanks. The light does get quite a bit bluer when the ballasts are dimmed all the way. I think I'll give it a try. The dinos do seem to be dying back a little lately. Maybe this could be the nail in the coffin. :)
 
My first inclination is to say yes. As you know, I've been having ongoing problems with what I assume is a type of dinoflagellate algae. I've been fighting it for over 10 months now. About 4 weeks after I started running the EkoBak the dinos started to decline - and the decline seems to be holding. I attribute this to lower nutrients. No way for me to prove it but, indications are indications.
 
My first inclination is to say yes. As you know, I've been having ongoing problems with what I assume is a type of dinoflagellate algae. I've been fighting it for over 10 months now. About 4 weeks after I started running the EkoBak the dinos started to decline - and the decline seems to be holding. I attribute this to lower nutrients. No way for me to prove it but, indications are indications.

Tom , I'm very glad to hear that . Looks like your hard work is paying off .
 
there is a big controversy on the pellets. most claim that it is a temp solution... Vs like a Sulfur De-Nitrate reactor which keeps on keeping on. (this is for nitrates) but do the pellets remove other things? i have no experience with them, but my sulfur reactor does work!
just another option...
 
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