Building My 375gal Glass Reef

Tom, looks like it´s not only cheapper, but it could prove to be more efficient (Split Chiller).

Reasons:
1- You cold down the water inside (or near the aquarium)
- Transporting water from one side to other usually is not very effective.
2- Your chiller is outside the room, with better air and temperature exchange
- No sound, heat or humidity inside the room.

I really like it !!

My only question now is Why don´t go for 12000BTUs or more ? there is such a significant price difference ?

As they will really cool down faster the aquarium... energy will be not an issue...
 
Leonardo - the fight hasn't been going well, at all. I've tried a number of things - from constant manual removal and shortening my lighting period, to raising the pH (a little). To be honest, I've been scared to get too radical. My corals all have 9 months growth behind them and I've been afraid of damaging them. Three days ago I began (trying) to hold the pH at 8.55 using a combination of kalkreaktor and a kalk slurry. This has proved to be a very difficult endeavor. Check out my thread in the Chemistry Forum

BTW - Leonardo, what kind of an effect on SPS/LPS do you think 36 hours of complete darkness would have?

Hello Tom, I tried to keep the pH at 8.5 myself also, and it is almost impossible.
Using Balling, kalkreactor with oversaturated Kalkwasser, good ventilated room and outside air on the skimmer intake I can barely keep it at 8.3 in the early morning. During the day it rises to pH 8.6
Although I have a very mild outbreak, I can't see any improvement yet. Currently I stopped Carbon dosing completely and began to use GFO again, and increase the amount in steps, very slowly.
A 36 dark period won't harm the SPS, I tried in once myself. After that I did build up the lightcycle slowly to prevent a light shock.
I'll check the link in the Chemistry forum.

Good luck! Leonardo
 
... My only question now is Why don´t go for 12000BTUs or more ? there is such a significant price difference ?

As they will really cool down faster the aquarium... energy will be not an issue...
The reason for going with 8000BTU is that Ted (reefrubble) was kind enough to provide a titanium coil that is sized for approx. 8000.
 
Leonardo - thanks for the input on the dark period. Good thinking on phasing in the light. I hope I can get rid of this stuff - it's completely ruining my enjoyment of my system. Bad .. bad .. bad ... :(

When I think about how much worse you must have felt after your bad luck, last year ...
 
Leonardo - thanks for the input on the dark period. Good thinking on phasing in the light. I hope I can get rid of this stuff - it's completely ruining my enjoyment of my system. Bad .. bad .. bad ... :(

When I think about how much worse you must have felt after your bad luck, last year ...

I know Tom, I had some difficult periods also. Several times with AEFW and the timer-failure crash last year. Good thing is that the reward and satisfaction afterwards more then make up for it. You will win this battle!

Leonardo
 
Please make sure you load up on a quality activated carbon when you turn off the lights. You'll have die off in the tank and these toxines will no doubt cause you issues. i make it a habit to turn off the light in my tank every 2 months for a 1-2 day period. I keep a very small led light going to make sure my fish are not stressed. Cyano and Dino are pretty toxic and when the die off in your tank it's best to run carbon.
Make sure to skim wet too!

PS.. I'm getting a new tank in 2 days... I grabed some ideas from your thread! I'll send pictures when I receive it. I just finished staining and coating my Custom Stand! I'm getting excited!!!!!
 
Hi Tom,

First of all, spectacular build thread you have here.
I have subscribed it since the beginning so I feel for you knowing the hard work you have put in this project...

Nevertheless, I am with Leonardo; I am sure you will get past this obstacle and the satisfaction will be overwhelming.

Regarding Dino´s, I am too currently handling the same problem in my 30G LPS and softies tank. I have been battling Dino´s for a month now, after two weeks trying to keep NPS corals with daily frozen food, several times/day. The skimmer + WC were not enough for the organics and bam: Dino´s. The white sand became red with O2 bubbles spreading the threads of the Beast, the glass was covered in a red web as well as the rocks and corals started to become affected with red strings attached to them.

Before corals were affected, I read and read and tried to apply the following:

- stop feeding corals and reduced feeding on fish
- increase pH with kalkwasser saturating the top off water; ph is always 8.3
- add GAC and change it every two weeks
- water changes of 20L two times/week with detritus in the Sump and Dino´s in the Display syphoned
- wet skimming
- UV filtration for day period
- turkey baster the corals everyday to keep them free of algae and keep the stringy Dino´s suspended to be overflowed and filtered by the UV
- clean the glass and MP10 everyday to remove as much nasties I could

After three weeks with this routine, I have not noticed positive results, much on the contrary. After one hour the lights go on, sand and rock were still red, glass still had the red webs, corals were getting more affected, specially the Zoanthids. I consider myself a patience guy but enough is enough so I rethought my steps, asked why these things would come back after trying to control the organics and decided to go extreme:

- removed all the fish and inverts to the bigger tank to completely stop throwing food in the tank
- increased GAC
- UV filtration for 24h
- covered the whole tank with beach towels
- performed a 20L WC and vacuumed all the Dino´s I could on the sand and rocks
- cleaned the glass and pump
- turkey bastard the corals
- immedeately turned the lights off and left the tank in total darkness for 4 days ( I read that some people went 7 days but I am not that radical)

At the 4th day, I turned the lights on for 6 hours and performed a WC to syphon the dead Dino´s. Corals took the beating and looked good, sand was white again, rocks and glass were clean and the Beast was dead ( or so I thought)...

At the 6th day, It resuscitated! Tiny red patches started to color the sand grains to take the lost Glory It once had! The first reaction was: " Not in my watch you won´t, Bit**". Clearly, there were still some organics left but the only affected area was the sand bed. In the same day, I went to the LFS and bought a bottle of MB7, along with a bottle of Vodka. When I got home, I once again rethought my theory but reached the conclusion that injecting Vodka would most likely fuel the algae since it would be another nutrient at the Beast´s disposal and I wouldn´t want that. Oh, what the heck. I´ll just use the MB7 and keep the Vodka for happier days ( or sadder days, depending on the evolution of the situation :sad1: ).

So, new actions have been taken:

- leave the lights for only 6h/day
- remove the UV filter
- return to 20L WC once a week
- turkey baster the sand and rock every day in the nocturnal period to keep the POM suspended in order to feed the corals and the DOM available for Bacteria that, consequently, could be skimmed out or also feed the corals.
- the extra Bacteria introduced by the MB7 would aid in this conversion for feeding and exportation of the system. No extra carbon source is used.

I´m on my 6th day of these newly simple tasks and on the 12th day after the blackout and Dino´s are slowly fading. The rock, corals, glass and pump are 100% clean, corals never looked happier, the sand has still some patches of red but it stays withe for longer time through out the day and this is evident day by day to the point I decided to give a sweet to my LPS corals made of Mysis and Lobster eggs today. I am confident that it won´t take longer until things get back to normal but I won´t be opening the champagne bottle just yet. For now, I can only say that Dino´s are under control but not gone.

Now, I see some details that turned my task easier to control this pest, such as:

- my tank is small ( 30G) so it really helps when it comes to turkey baster, WCs, cleaning, skimming, injecting bacteria, etc
- I only had three small fish and a couple of Inverts that were easy to remove to facilitate maintenance and stop feeding the tank
- it is a tank exclusive for softies like Ricordeas and Zoanthids and LPS like Acanthastreas, Trachyphyllias, Catallaphyllia, Favias, Caulastreas, etc.
- Lighting is composed of 6 x 18W T8
- Flow is also imperative and the MP10 in this tank doesn´t allow dead spots
- It is also imperative that much of the detritus that are suspended with the turkey baster are overflowed and skimmed out of the system or vacuumed with WCs in the Sump

I am sorry for the long post but I figured that the more the experiences, the better. Hopefully, something will work out for you though I know it won´t be easy in such a big system. In the end, you must not let this take you down but, instead, stand and fight it with the persistence and patience of a buddhist monk. The Beast won´t stand a chance!

Good luck. :beer:
André
 
Good luck Tom. We're all rooting for you.

Andre- Thats a great bit of information, thanks for sharing :thumbsup:
 
Lucky, post a link when you get the thread up.

Thanks, Mark. I appreciate it.

André, thank you for going to so much trouble with your post! That is exactly the kind of information that I (and problaby a good number of other aquarists) need - perfect!!
 
Hi,

First of all Congratulations for your magnificent setup!

The problem you have is something like this?

231120092072.jpg

131120092058.jpg

131120092061.jpg

261220092217.jpg

261220092220.jpg



A month ago my aquarium had this problem and nothing seem to work to fight it (watter changes, vacuum, no lights, more watter circulation) until a friend showed me this product:

ESE 500
erythromycinum 500mg


It did wonders!
In just 3 days everything was clean and most important with no casualties of fish or corals!
A single pill is enough for 400l of watter so in my case I divide it.
Be aware that the skimmer will produce a lot of foam.

You can see the result here:
IMG_5858.jpg


There is nothing left!
 
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Frontosa99, What you had was Cyno. , not Dino . They are two entirely different things . cyno. is a bacteria , and erythromycinum 500mg , is an antibiotic , which will kill a bacteria . Dino , on the other hand is not a bacteria , and it is not affected by an antibiotic . Some one correct me if I am wrong . Ted
 
Frontosa99 - thanks for trying to help!Looks like you had a very bad case of Cyano, there! At least it was a pretty color, huh ...

This is what my problem looks like:

Dino-1.jpg


Dino-2.jpg


Dino-3.jpg


Erythromycin is an anti-biotic and, as such, definitely does a great job at ridding a tank of Cyano - which is a bacteria. I used it a couple of times, when I lived in Germany, and it does a great job of cleaning up a tank.
 
Frontosa99, What you had was Cyno. , not Dino . They are two entirely different things . cyno. is a bacteria , and erythromycinum 500mg , is an antibiotic , which will kill a bacteria . Dino , on the other hand is not a bacteria , and it is not affected by an antibiotic . Some one correct me if I am wrong . Ted
Thanks, Ted! You beat me by 4 minutes. :)

On another subject - kinda - I had to take the frag tank, I recently put on-line, back off. It was just too infested with dino. :( Damn this stuff is crap!
 
Lucky, post a link when you get the thread up.

Thanks, Mark. I appreciate it.

André, thank you for going to so much trouble with your post! That is exactly the kind of information that I (and problaby a good number of other aquarists) need - perfect!!

I get my Miracle tank tomorrow! I'll be making a link soon. Thanks!
 
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have a question.

Dino-1.jpg


In this first photo there is a little feather duster does anyone know who to get rid of these? I have a bunch and there not that nice to look at.
 
Hello Tom,

Those DIno´s you have are a different species from the ones I have.
Mine are exactly the same as these.

Those you have are wicked as they don´t have the red or green pigmentation one would expect from a photossintetic organism... :confused:
 
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have a question.

Dino-1.jpg


In this first photo there is a little feather duster does anyone know who to get rid of these? I have a bunch and there not that nice to look at.

A copperband would definitley make a meal of them ;)
 
Hello Tom,

Those DIno´s you have are a different species from the ones I have.
Mine are exactly the same as these.

Those you have are wicked as they don´t have the red or green pigmentation one would expect from a photossintetic organism... :confused:

Agree.

Tom, those are a doozy and I sure wish you success in solving your problem.
 
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