Most people use an orange lens filter and/or post process in software. Certain phones also have great white balance correction built in - most iPhones and google pixel come to mind. Having said that, I suck at aquarium photography.
Building out a Red Sea Nano
- Thread starter Genetics
- Start date
This^^^. The Orphek camera lenses are popular. I use them in most of my shots even with my halides (by blue LED strips always trio up my white balance)
Haven’t had the tank for a month yet and already tired of changing out the filter socks. Looking for an alternative I ordered an acrylic replacement. Sadly it didn’t fit as it was too long.
Couldn’t find one that fit my nano so dusted off the old 3D printer. Surprisingly there is quite a bit of equipment that is now printable. Here’s where I’m at on the print cycle… only 20hrs left.
Couldn’t find one that fit my nano so dusted off the old 3D printer. Surprisingly there is quite a bit of equipment that is now printable. Here’s where I’m at on the print cycle… only 20hrs left.
Any link on this filter? Specific wavelength? I have my old Nikon and wonder if I can find this filter in a screw on form.
KrakenReef lid arrived and is on with the feeder adapter.
One clown readily eating the second is not as feisty and has me a bit concerned. Both are hiding in the shaded area of the aquarium. Don’t know if lights still too bright. Went ahead and dropped the intensity off the 60w fixture to max 30%.
Water values today:
NO3 - 0ppm
PO4 - 0.09ppm
Alk - 10.1dKh
Ca - 420ppm
Mg - 1240ppm
pH - 8.11
My guess is the vinegar in the ATO water dropped nitrates to zero. Phosphates still linger after today’s water change. With alkalinity finally higher I feel comfortable adding phosphate binder.
Not much going on from here out for a few weeks as I need to let everything stabilize and working on making sure the clowns stay healthy.
One clown readily eating the second is not as feisty and has me a bit concerned. Both are hiding in the shaded area of the aquarium. Don’t know if lights still too bright. Went ahead and dropped the intensity off the 60w fixture to max 30%.
Water values today:
NO3 - 0ppm
PO4 - 0.09ppm
Alk - 10.1dKh
Ca - 420ppm
Mg - 1240ppm
pH - 8.11
My guess is the vinegar in the ATO water dropped nitrates to zero. Phosphates still linger after today’s water change. With alkalinity finally higher I feel comfortable adding phosphate binder.
Not much going on from here out for a few weeks as I need to let everything stabilize and working on making sure the clowns stay healthy.
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85b is the filter. 85a even works although the result will have more remaining blue. I sometimes put them both together and need no post processing. Mine are 58mm vivitar that I got off ebay.
I will shop around thanks!
Never had an issue with either. Some say asterina will munch coral but I’ve never had an issue
I had the white variety without issue. Just wondered if the black variety was somehow different. Seems like they are not obligate corallivores. I can’t think of the term, where they prey on injury or dying, but that’s my guess with peoples’ observations.
That I can confirm. A dying coral they will gladly go to. Mine have done that, but I knew the coral was already dying long before they started at it.
Looks grainy. Did you crop a bigger picture (this works way better with RAW images) or is your ISO set too high maybe?
It's been a decade since I took any macro images. I did have my ISO set high but that was due to me attempting to minimize movement blur. Also yes I did crop these pictures from a larger image. They were originally captured in RAW. Post processing in Photoshop 6. Seems like I have much to learn again in this arena. Also this was taken on a Nikon D70. Its 6 megapixels but that may not be enough.
Frankly on my phone they look great (was on a 24" screen before). Maybe it's just a resolution thing then.
Nice looking corals. The images are a little grainy, even on my phone, but still not bad at all. Can clearly tell what they are
