Buildup of a 210 gallon Reef

goby and cabbage - great stand ideas! Bird's eye maple is really nice!

This is mine, red oak.


180-052.jpg


180-056.jpg
 
Another thing you might want to consider in building a stand - if you make it so that it will hold a few inches of water in case of a plumbing problem, you can rig a drain for that water. I managed to rig up a 1.5" drain that goes from the bottom of my stand out through an exterior wall and then there is a Ptrap out there next to the wall. That way if I ever have a serious leak under there it will at least buy me some time before flooding into the house.

Here are some pictures and stuff about the drain http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=5865565#post5865565

I coated the whole inside of the stand with water sealer and caulked the seams around the bottom and sides. Adds some peace of mind, especially for my wife.
 
Cabbage- What is the accent wood you used? Was that maple ply or solid wood?

rdmpe- I was looking at your thread last night... good idea for the drain. I should have done that.

Steve
 
The accent wood is solid pine stock. I wanted to use maple but after shelling out the dough for the bird's eye I was a little short of cash. I stained the pine trim with a gel stain. The whole stand was then poly-urethaned. The birds eye now matches the trim and realy looks cool.
 
Here is an updated picture of the stand in its new home. I'm just waiting for three friends to come over to help me lift the tank on to the stand

3454733923232%7Ffp334%3Enu%3D3243%3E596%3E436%3EWSNRCG%3D3232%3C%3B97%3B463%3Bnu0mrj


Here is a picture of my exsisting tank

3454733923232%7Ffp64%3Dot%3E2334%3D687%3D527%3DXROQDF%3E2323%3B%3C88%3B7845ot1lsi


3454733923232%7Ffp58%3Dot%3E2334%3D687%3D527%3DXROQDF%3E2323%3B%3C88%3B7854ot1lsi
 
Nice Cabbage - will all of your plumbing be in the stand or are you taking it through that wall behind the tank?
 
Thanks rdmpe!
All of the plumbing will be under the stand. Unfortunately the kitchen is behind that wall and as of yet I have been unable to convince the wife that a fish room and a stove can coexist. My current 55gal will serve as my fuge. I have made doors on the sides of the stand so that I can service the sump/fuge easily.
 
That looks great cabbagehead!

I little verbal update....

The front and sides are on, the OSB floor is sealed with 2 part epoxy and the back is on. The next step is to paint and prime the inside, then either start on the doors or start on the canopy.

Screwing down these panels really stiffened up the frame.

I ended up using 3/4" pine pieces on the rear since it will be against a wall. I figured there is no sense in spending $40 extra on wood that won't be seen and will be painted white anyways.
 
Here are the pictures to back-up the verbal update.

I used a 2-part epoxy to seal the OSB on the bottom of the tank:

IMG_0575.jpg


I also used the 2-part on the little step for the fuge:

IMG_0576.jpg


Here is the stand with the face and sides attached:

IMG_0577.jpg


Here is the somewhat rough finished product:

IMG_0581.jpg


It still needs sanding as well as trim but it's getting there.
 
Looks good.

That solid oak is alot more fun to work with than plywood!

How are you planning to trim it?

What kind of finish are you planning? (you may have mentioned this before but I forgot)


Steve
 
I have had a lot more fun with this solid oak than that darn plywood. Making the openings for the doors was much easier! I love that pocket jig as well.

I plan to trim it as much like my 90 as possible:

DSCF1384.jpg


I don't intend to trim the corners like before though.
 
Your 90 stand looks great. I bet the bigger one will turn out really nice. I love the idea of sealing the floor of the stand with epoxy. I wish I had thought of that. I guess I could still try it. I sealed mine with a bunch of Thompsons water sealant. But the plywood was pretty rough with knots and such so I don't really trust that seal so well. Epoxy would a lot more reliable. I guess I could do it while it's in the house but I imagine it was pretty stinky huh? Maybe I could do it on a day when we'll be leaving the house for several hours...
 
cabbagehead said:
I been following this thread for a while. Glad to see the stand finally being assembled. I have a 135 that I am currently about to add water to. I have two large doors just like thrlride's. Is the issue with the doors warping or the stand itself? This is my stand still under construction. I used 2x4 and 2x6 for the guts and wraped it with
birds eye maple

we have two large bi-fold doors on our 140. use good strong hardware and we have not had a problem with ours. they are about 3 feet long each
 
rdmpe said:
Your 90 stand looks great. I bet the bigger one will turn out really nice. I love the idea of sealing the floor of the stand with epoxy. I wish I had thought of that. I guess I could still try it. I sealed mine with a bunch of Thompsons water sealant. But the plywood was pretty rough with knots and such so I don't really trust that seal so well. Epoxy would a lot more reliable. I guess I could do it while it's in the house but I imagine it was pretty stinky huh? Maybe I could do it on a day when we'll be leaving the house for several hours...

Yeah, this stuff is nasty. When you pour the hardner it starts smoking and all that fun stuff. The entire garage smelled like it for days.

<hr>

My openings on the front are 27x29. The sides are 19x29.

I think I am just going to do two larger doors. If they warp I'll just rethink the whole thing, at least the doors will be easy to replace.
 
Here is the one of the doors on my stand. I thought this might help with door ideas.

IMGP1444.jpg


The photo is kind of bad it makes the wood look a little "ashy":)

I personally don't think you need to do anything to the corners. If you really think is needs some additional decoration you could add one of these to each end.

43565a-lg.jpg


Steve
 
How do you guys think I should do the side of the canopy? The dimensions don't fit any single boards and I didn't really want to use plywood. I don't have a planner or jointer either.
 
You really don't need that strip. It is designed to hide the rough edge of the plywood. Since you used solid wood there is no need for the L molding.

Another option would be a fluted molding like this

42730-lg.jpg


But like I said I would not add anything if it were me:)

I would do some nice trim around the top and bottom and leave it at that.

I will make the case one more time for 4 doors across the front. I think that visually two large doors would not look as good as 4 regular size doors. I think the scale of the stand would be diminished with 2 large doors. But this is simply my opinion.

This is the last you will hear about this from me :D
 
Back
Top