C Dogs 400g Sun Lit Peninsula Reef

C Dog

New member
I have been in the reef hobby for about 5-6 years. I am 24 yrs old, married with one amazing son and our daughter is due in march. I started with a BioCube 14g (made rimless), CadLights 34g, beta bowl 1.25g, custom 50g rimless. I have had very good success with SPS, softies, anemones.

I picked up a 400 gal 1" acrylic tank for $500. Its 60" L x 36" W x 48" T. It is in really good condition with hardly any scratches.

Most all of my tanks have used LED lighting and have had very good growth with them. Due to being 48" I have decided not to use LEDS.

After being inspired by this sun lit reef tank http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2040499 Thanks for all the info!
I wanted to go with solar tubes. I live in SWFL so I have plenty of sun!

This tank will be replacing my 50g rimless reef I have set up now. I will be closing in my patio and taking out one wall in my dining room for the new tank. This build will be slow but should turn out really well. I will take pics of the tank build and the before/after of the remodeling.

This tank will be view able on 3 sides.

Tank: 400g 60 L x 3" W x 48" T

Lighting: (2) 21" Sun Domes, metal halides for night time viewing.

Stand: DIY

This will be a reef tank. I do have a few questions:

1. How much can the over flow(teeth, see pics) handle?

2. What size GPH pump would you recommend? What brand?

3. Can some one help design a stand out of 2x4 or 2x6?

4. I plan on doing a closed loop system to move water instead of power heads in the tank. I was thinking on each side of the over flow on the backside to do 3 verticle returns ( bottom, middle, top, 6 total) What size pump would you recommend? Would having the returns on the bottom be a better choice? What size bulk heads?

5. What size heater?

I am sure I will have more questions but will take alot of pics when I can.
This will be a slow build. Sorry for the messy garage lol​


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1. How much can the over flow(teeth, see pics) handle?

2. What size GPH pump would you recommend? What brand?

3. Can some one help design a stand out of 2x4 or 2x6?

4. I plan on doing a closed loop system to move water instead of power heads in the tank. I was thinking on each side of the over flow on the backside to do 3 verticle returns ( bottom, middle, top, 6 total) What size pump would you recommend? Would having the returns on the bottom be a better choice? What size bulk heads?

5. What size heater?

1. It's a little hard to tell from the pic but those teeth look pretty shallow to me. Could be why a few are broken out, to allow more water to flow. Besides the teeth (which you could always enlarge) how much your overflow can handle will be dictated by the drain pipe size. How many are there (looks like 3?) and what size are they? If you go with too big of a pump, you can always valve it back, can never get more out of too small a pump though.

2. You want mimimum 3 times your tank volume flowing through the tank after head loss. Others won't agree with me but you could go more if your overflow will handle it. You want to shoot for at least 1500 GPH after head loss. As for brand, you need to decide if you want internal or external to the sump, can you tolerate noise or must it be super quiet, how much head loss will you have from the pump to the top of the tank + plumbing? Answers to these questions may dictate brand choices.

3. Start here DIY Stands Template and Calculator

4. I think 3 returns on each side would be ideal. Go for as big of bulkheads as you can (you can always step them down with PVC at the output). Pump size should probably be minimum of 10x tank volume for GPH if you want to keep SPS. I don't like returns on the bottom but that's a personal choice for me. Many have done it successfully. You might need to go that route if you don't have enough room on the sides of your overflow to drill for bulkheads. However, if you can drill next to the overflow, and if it were me, I would do two pumps that size and alternate having 1 on at a time every six hours. This will get the whole mass of water moving in a gyre flow and change direction every 6 hours. Some reading for interest on that.

Article on gyre flow

Reef Tank Fluid Mechanics

5. I would recommend getting your system set up and see where your tank's temperature is naturally at. Pumps, Sun Domes, and Halides will add heat to the water and big tanks hold temperature very well. And if it's going to be in an enclosed room that will help hold the heat in too. You may even find you need a chiller and not a heater. Which brings up another consideration. You MUST plan for moisture control. Once you put that much water in your house your AC will not be able to keep up with the amount of ambiant moisture you're going have, especially being in FL. Make a tank ventilation plan now or pay for it later.


It might be a tight squeeze getting Sun Domes and halide reflectors over the tank. Since the extra lighting will mainly be for your viewing needs, you might consider some of the "cannon" style LED's from Kessil or Ecoxotic. They have a very small footprint and might make good supplements.





Current tunes: Sick Puppies - Don't Walk Away
 
1. It's a little hard to tell from the pic but those teeth look pretty shallow to me. Could be why a few are broken out, to allow more water to flow. Besides the teeth (which you could always enlarge) how much your overflow can handle will be dictated by the drain pipe size. How many are there (looks like 3?) and what size are they? If you go with too big of a pump, you can always valve it back, can never get more out of too small a pump though.

2. You want mimimum 3 times your tank volume flowing through the tank after head loss. Others won't agree with me but you could go more if your overflow will handle it. You want to shoot for at least 1500 GPH after head loss. As for brand, you need to decide if you want internal or external to the sump, can you tolerate noise or must it be super quiet, how much head loss will you have from the pump to the top of the tank + plumbing? Answers to these questions may dictate brand choices.

3. Start here DIY Stands Template and Calculator

4. I think 3 returns on each side would be ideal. Go for as big of bulkheads as you can (you can always step them down with PVC at the output). Pump size should probably be minimum of 10x tank volume for GPH if you want to keep SPS. I don't like returns on the bottom but that's a personal choice for me. Many have done it successfully. You might need to go that route if you don't have enough room on the sides of your overflow to drill for bulkheads. However, if you can drill next to the overflow, and if it were me, I would do two pumps that size and alternate having 1 on at a time every six hours. This will get the whole mass of water moving in a gyre flow and change direction every 6 hours. Some reading for interest on that.

Article on gyre flow

Reef Tank Fluid Mechanics

5. I would recommend getting your system set up and see where your tank's temperature is naturally at. Pumps, Sun Domes, and Halides will add heat to the water and big tanks hold temperature very well. And if it's going to be in an enclosed room that will help hold the heat in too. You may even find you need a chiller and not a heater. Which brings up another consideration. You MUST plan for moisture control. Once you put that much water in your house your AC will not be able to keep up with the amount of ambiant moisture you're going have, especially being in FL. Make a tank ventilation plan now or pay for it later.


It might be a tight squeeze getting Sun Domes and halide reflectors over the tank. Since the extra lighting will mainly be for your viewing needs, you might consider some of the "cannon" style LED's from Kessil or Ecoxotic. They have a very small footprint and might make good supplements.

Thanks for the help!

1. The two teeth are missing because the returns where there. There is 4 holes drilled in the over flow. 2 for returns, 2 for drains. a peice was in the way of the 4th hole when I took a picks.
 
Good luck with your build! Have you checked your roof trusses to see if you can fit 21" domes?

if you are going to run a coast to coast return I would use all 4 holes in the overflow as drains, you could even feed your skimmer with one.
 
Good luck with your build! Have you checked your roof trusses to see if you can fit 21" domes?

if you are going to run a coast to coast return I would use all 4 holes in the overflow as drains, you could even feed your skimmer with one.

Yes i measured it is 23-24" between my trusses.

Any one make a DIY PVC skimmer for a tank this big.
 
Pump....I like my blueline 100hd almost too strong. This will depend on where you will have your pump and what else are you planning on running off of the pump....skimmer, fuge, reactors...etc.

Heater...I just use a 1000w heater on my system. My basement stays pretty warm so it doesnt need to kick on too often but when it does, its not on for long.

Stand...do a search for username rocketengineer. he has a great thread on building stands and the directions are very easy to follow. I built one for my 80g frag tank and it literally took me 3-4 hrs to do.

Love the tank and anxious to see this grow. With that height you will be able to create some amazing rock structures!!!!
 
However, if you can drill next to the overflow, and if it were me, I would do two pumps that size and alternate having 1 on at a time every six hours. This will get the whole mass of water moving in a gyre flow and change direction every 6 hours.

It looks like I have plenty of room to drill on the back of the tank between the overflow and side of the tank. I will do 4 holes on each side(total 8) verticle. 3 holes will be returns and 1 will be the intake. Where can I buy cheap bulkheads? lowes, homedepot or online?

I like the idea of having each side of the closed loop alternate every few hours. Instead of running two pumps is there a electric valve that can alternate with only using 1 pump? I figured It would be cheaper.

I have been looking at the Dart pumps. Seems like alot of people like them.

Which brings up another consideration. You MUST plan for moisture control. Once you put that much water in your house your AC will not be able to keep up with the amount of ambiant moisture you're going have, especially being in FL. Make a tank ventilation plan now or pay for it later.

How would I ventilate? I am not making a canopy for the top of the tank. It will be mostly open.

Love the tank and anxious to see this grow. With that height you will be able to create some amazing rock structures!!!!

Thanks. I need to buy ALOT of rock and have to search on how to expoy them together to build it up. Hoping for maybe to do islands of some sort.

I have been trying to debate which spot the tank will sit in my house. I think i am going to have to build a stand and bring the stand and tank in my house to decide where to put it before I do any remodeling.
 
It looks like I have plenty of room to drill on the back of the tank between the overflow and side of the tank. I will do 4 holes on each side(total 8) verticle. 3 holes will be returns and 1 will be the intake. Where can I buy cheap bulkheads? lowes, homedepot or online?

I like the idea of having each side of the closed loop alternate every few hours. Instead of running two pumps is there a electric valve that can alternate with only using 1 pump? I figured It would be cheaper.

I have been looking at the Dart pumps. Seems like alot of people like them.



How would I ventilate? I am not making a canopy for the top of the tank. It will be mostly open.



Thanks. I need to buy ALOT of rock and have to search on how to expoy them together to build it up. Hoping for maybe to do islands of some sort.

I have been trying to debate which spot the tank will sit in my house. I think i am going to have to build a stand and bring the stand and tank in my house to decide where to put it before I do any remodeling.



You can buy cheap bulkheads at Bulk Reef Supply. Many people will tell you to use schedule 80 bulkheads becuase of how stout they are. I don't and have never had a problem.

Yes you can use an actuated 3 way valve to divert the flow to each side and use only one pump. It won't be cheaper. The actuated valve with timer circuit that I use on my surge was $600 (I did not DIY this) and that's only a two way and doesn't include a pump. Two pumps with two timers will be simpler and cheaper.

I'm not a fan of Dart pumps but many people are. The one I had was noisey and the seal leaked in under a year.

If your tank is going to be open to the living space of the house the only option you're going to have is an HRV (Heat Recovory Ventilator). This is not an inexpensive proposition but you'll need to do something. I live in MT where the summers are mostly dry and the winters are exceedingly dry. My first reef tank was only 75 gals and I still got mold growing becuase I didn't vetilate to the outside. If you would consider having your tank as an in wall, you could vent the space the tank is sitting in (your closed in patio) with an inline or through wall ventilation fan and humidistat control. That's exactly what I did for my 300 (see my build thread for more information).

You could make your own rock.

The Ultimate DIY Rocks!

And then use pond foam to build your islands.

The Foam/Rock Projects Here Thread

Mock up your tank and stand with cardboard boxes. That will be much easier to move around and you could even do it this weekend. ;)
 
Just a small update. I will be starting my stand soon. I figured out where the tank will go and will have to start remodeling when I can. Here are some pics of purple barnacles I picked up. Roughly 30" L x 26"W. Now I just have to make some DIY rock

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A update in the last few days. Got some sweet deals on used equipment:

Reeflo Hamerhead 4,115 GPH pump for my closed loop $125

Jandy electric actuator valve $25 (Just have to buy the 3 way valve for the closed loop)

400 gallon skimmer $50

50" L x 23" W x 24" T 114 gallon 1/2 thick acrylic tank $50 (Use it as a refugium or sump)

So far I have about $750 in the build including the tank. I am waiting for my tax return to start remodeling and building the wood stand.


So what do you guys recommend on what to do about the filter? I was plan on running a refugium but have been see people building algae scrubbers. Do you think if I build a big algae scrubber in my sump it would work? This would let me grow frags in the sump instead of putting baffles in it.

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I am guessing with the equipment, (2) 21" sun domes and the remodeling my house I will be under $4,000-6,000 DIY everything.
 
damm man Im jealous where are you getting all this sweet deals!! nice dimmensions by the way on the aquariums
 
Great looking tank.

I was just looking at the Jandy electric actuator valve and it looks like it has metal parts. You should confirm whether or not it does because it cannot be used if it has metal parts. There are very few actuator valves that are all plastic and they are usually very expensive.
 
I have decided that I am going to cut out the current over flow box on the back wall. It just takes up too much space. So I have 2 options. Help me pick the best one.

#1 do a glass holes 3000 GPH overflow $140 http://www.glass-holes.com/3000-Overflow-Box-Complete-Kit-gh3000kit.htm
18.25" L x 3.5" W x 7" T Uses (2) 2" bulk heads. Max flow 3000 GPH. Recommended continuous flow rates: 1000-2000 gph

OR

#2 do a internal bean animal type over flow. I dont know much about them and dont know how big or how to plumb one. If you recommend this one please help me design it.
 
gl*******s overflows tend to be noisy if you run a large amount of flow through them. if the amount of space the overflow takes up really bothers you, judging from the picture and what apears to be the placement of the holes, it looks like you can cut it out and resize it. Maybe you can make an external overflow, but i'm not sure about the structural engineering part of that option.
 
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