CA drought and RO/DI productions.

I've actually met a couple reefers here in the bay that have had real good success with using tap. They actually swear by the tap and the minerals that we get rid of through using RODI. Then again, our tds is a lot lower than most places. I live in San Bruno and my tds out of the tap is at 65.
 
If its just RO then your fine I believe to drink but once its deionized then not something you want to drink from what I've read but someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 
If its just RO then your fine I believe to drink but once its deionized then not something you want to drink from what I've read but someone correct me if I'm wrong.


I've heard mixed thoughts on drinking RO. Some people say it's fine but some say that the filters harbor bacteria that might not be good to drink.
 
RO water is good not the waste water. Tehy sell the RO system for drinking water i don't see why you can't drink it.
 
Keep in mind the wastewater is still mechanically filtered and ran through carbon. Has a higher mineral content but still, Very safe to drink
 
I've heard mixed thoughts on drinking RO. Some people say it's fine but some say that the filters harbor bacteria that might not be good to drink.

But wouldn't the filter get sterilized from the chloromine filled tap water?

Don't filter water built into the fridge just use carbon? (not sure, never had one)
 
A lot of these RO units sold for reefs were originally sold for making filter drinking water. I'm sure it's drinkable after filter. most of the blocks we have is carbon, micro filter then the membrane. It's going through the DI part that i am not sure of.
 
I only have a 20G nano but I bought the BRS 150 GPD unit with "water saver" aka two RO membranes. I thought this was 1:1 at the right pressure but now I'm not 100% sure of that. It's about $320 and it seems to be working well. I got it on sale for $288 and apparently they go on sale once a month. I'm debating upgrading to a booster -- according to BRS, it should have one below 65 PSI and my water seems to be around 46-50 PSI.

I use the waste water in the garden.

A lot of these RO units sold for reefs were originally sold for making filter drinking water. I'm sure it's drinkable after filter. most of the blocks we have is carbon, micro filter then the membrane. It's going through the DI part that i am not sure of.

You can get a 3-Way Ball Valve with John Guest 1/4" Push Connect from BRS to put between your RO output and your DI. That way, you can turn the valve and get water out before it goes through the DI. You can also flush the high TDS that builds up when the RO/DI unit sits not producing water. So each time I want to make a bunch of water, I can flip the valve, drain out the first 60 seconds of production that has high TDS and then flip the valve to go through the DI. Some people have automated it. I like being able to make a gallon of RO water for drinking.
 
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quick question, instead of the 75gpd RO saver kit, can I run 2 100gpd membranes to get 200gpd? in which case what would my product/waste water ratio be?

This thread got me thinking of capitalizing on my high water pressure, I can get close to 100psi right before the RO/DI setup, I'm already running an extra sediment stage to increase life of carbon stages, now I'm thinking why not double up RO membranes & save water too :D
 
So what's the difference between those kitchen reverse osmosis systems for faucets compared to aquarium systems? besides the addition of De-ionization?? and maybe difference in membrane usage??
 
The main difference is in the sediment filters, we us 1 & 5 micron, many home systems use 5-50 micron, also we use 1 & 2 stage carbon (granulated and blocks) where as a home system would use a single carbon stage....

At least that's what I've gathered by simply looking at them.
 
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