Sorry for the off topic, but I was wondering if any of you guys were using the hanging kit on your lighting system and no longer needed the acrylic legs. I just bought one of these lights but it didnt come with the legs and eddie said they wont have any availible till early april. If you do send me a PM or email to computer_warfare@yahoo.com Thanks!!!
CADlights 39g Pro build thread
- Thread starter ArtC
- Start date
itsdarrow - I have one of the home-made style screens on my nano at the office and I wanted to try something a little different here. If I don't like the eggcrate (I am using black, btw) I can always go make another net screen.
I am not sure why, but my skimmer had to be set all the way on the bottom (I actually picked it up just a TINY bit) and then I raised the water level about an inch or so above the bottom baffles.
I am not sure why, but my skimmer had to be set all the way on the bottom (I actually picked it up just a TINY bit) and then I raised the water level about an inch or so above the bottom baffles.
California Crow
New member
Black eggcrate here too. I think it looks quite nice, actually. I may need to go the mesh route though, if I end up with a firefish.
I've had to keep my skimmer raised up pretty high, but then I'm still getting very wet skimmate. I'm betting that will change quite a bit within the next week or so.
CC
I've had to keep my skimmer raised up pretty high, but then I'm still getting very wet skimmate. I'm betting that will change quite a bit within the next week or so.
CC
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmPehYNj5cA
check this!
check this!
Euro-Reef NS 3.0-2P
Euro-Reef NS 3.0-2P
I was out of town for a couple of days and when I got back there was a grinding noise coming out of my skimmer.
Disassembly showed that one of the mesh disks came off of its plastic setting. No evidence that any foreign object or snail had crawled in - looks like it just came apart.
I put one of the smaller 'alternate' mesh wheels in until I can get Euro-Reef to replace...
Are people finding the E-R stays tuned once set up? I was looking at the sponge plug and thinking it must clog over time and drive the column height up.
Euro-Reef NS 3.0-2P
I was out of town for a couple of days and when I got back there was a grinding noise coming out of my skimmer.
Disassembly showed that one of the mesh disks came off of its plastic setting. No evidence that any foreign object or snail had crawled in - looks like it just came apart.
I put one of the smaller 'alternate' mesh wheels in until I can get Euro-Reef to replace...
Are people finding the E-R stays tuned once set up? I was looking at the sponge plug and thinking it must clog over time and drive the column height up.
http://www.nanoreefsystems.com/nano-protein-skimmers-ns30-2P.asp
The "sponge plug" is shown at the bottom of the skimmer. It is just a sponge insert into the bottom of the unit.
As far as driving the column height up, I have my skimmer placed almost flat on the bottom of the sump so there really isn't much that will change the flow through that sponge. I will let ya'll know how it is running in a week or two.
The "sponge plug" is shown at the bottom of the skimmer. It is just a sponge insert into the bottom of the unit.
As far as driving the column height up, I have my skimmer placed almost flat on the bottom of the sump so there really isn't much that will change the flow through that sponge. I will let ya'll know how it is running in a week or two.
Re: Re: Euro-Reef NS 3.0-2P
Re: Re: Euro-Reef NS 3.0-2P
No pic. The mesh didn't come apart - it's some kind of solid (~welded) metal mesh disk.
What happened was that the disk came off of the plastic impeller. Looks like E-R melted the impeller to attach it to the disk, and that attachment failed.
Re: Re: Euro-Reef NS 3.0-2P
No pic. The mesh didn't come apart - it's some kind of solid (~welded) metal mesh disk.
What happened was that the disk came off of the plastic impeller. Looks like E-R melted the impeller to attach it to the disk, and that attachment failed.
California Crow
New member
Hey Art, how the heck did you get that Perch Light installed in the sump. I can't get the light to pass through the opening in the stand back... even after taking it partially apart.
CC
CC
The stand has two doors in the front - I opened one of them and passed the Perch light through...
OK, OK, I know I'm missing something here. Not at home right now - you mean there's a transformer block that won't pass through the holes in the back of the stand? I installed a GFI power strip inside my cabinet - way back when and before the Perch light. So I guess I never dealt with having to pass the plug through the back holes.
California Crow
New member
Yep, that's it. The block is way too big to pass through the hole. Looks like my only option is to cut the wiring, pass it through the hole, and resplice the cord. No, biggie. It just took me by surprise.
CC
CC
California Crow
New member
We're talking about the aftermarket 'Perch Light"... not the stock light that came with the tank. Is that what you have?
CC
CC
I am not sure if it is aftermarket or what. It is a small CF 2-pin bulb in a plastic shielded metal housing, a clamp-on base with 2 thumb screws, a movable neck, and attached to a transformer that I know for sure doesn't fit through the hole in the back of the stand. I can take a picture of it after I get home if that description doesnt help.
California Crow
New member
That's the stock light. The Perch Light is just a little too big to pass through the hole like the stock light does. It's singular advantage, though, is that it doesn't immediately start to rust.
http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/215657/product.web
CC
http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/215657/product.web
CC
Perch light install
Perch light install
OK, not everybody has power distribution inside of their cabinet. And that's probably a good thing at least with the new sumps where there isn't much room to run cords. And maybe a good idea period. So I pulled my Perch out this afternoon and tried to install it with the block outside the cabinet and the light inside.
Two things you can try. At least one of them works.
If you have a tiny Torx driver, then you can take the block apart and see if you can disconnect the power cord from the block and pass just the power cord through. But it might be potted/spotwelded - I don't have a Torx small enough.
The other way is the same as how I installed the legacy SuperRust model, only you have to remove the bulb/cover from the Perch first. The trick here is to remember that the hole in the cabinet is bigger than the hole in the plastic trim ring.
Remove the bulb and cover via the two Phillips screws. In the cabinet, push the black plastic trim ring out of the cabinet hole from inside the cabinet. Then (from the back of the cabinet
) put the lamp assembly through the ring (bend or cut the trim ring - I cut the ring ages ago) and then through the cabinet hole. Start with the lamp end of the lamp assembly, and rotate the assembly as you put it through the hole. It's a tight fit, but didn't come anywhere near breaking anything. Once its inside, reinstall cabinet trim ring, and Perch lamp cover.
Maybe we should suggest slightly bigger pass-through holes to CADlights.
Perch light install
OK, not everybody has power distribution inside of their cabinet. And that's probably a good thing at least with the new sumps where there isn't much room to run cords. And maybe a good idea period. So I pulled my Perch out this afternoon and tried to install it with the block outside the cabinet and the light inside.
Two things you can try. At least one of them works.
If you have a tiny Torx driver, then you can take the block apart and see if you can disconnect the power cord from the block and pass just the power cord through. But it might be potted/spotwelded - I don't have a Torx small enough.
The other way is the same as how I installed the legacy SuperRust model, only you have to remove the bulb/cover from the Perch first. The trick here is to remember that the hole in the cabinet is bigger than the hole in the plastic trim ring.
Remove the bulb and cover via the two Phillips screws. In the cabinet, push the black plastic trim ring out of the cabinet hole from inside the cabinet. Then (from the back of the cabinet
) put the lamp assembly through the ring (bend or cut the trim ring - I cut the ring ages ago) and then through the cabinet hole. Start with the lamp end of the lamp assembly, and rotate the assembly as you put it through the hole. It's a tight fit, but didn't come anywhere near breaking anything. Once its inside, reinstall cabinet trim ring, and Perch lamp cover.Maybe we should suggest slightly bigger pass-through holes to CADlights.
California Crow
New member
Yeah, I spotted the torx screws when I was exploring options, but I don't have any drivers that small, I think. I'll give the trim ring option a try.
I wanted to keep the power stuff out of the sump area, as it's just so humid in there. I think once I have all the bigger stuff sorted out, I'll install a small vent fan just to keep things reasonably dry inside the cabinet.
CC
I wanted to keep the power stuff out of the sump area, as it's just so humid in there. I think once I have all the bigger stuff sorted out, I'll install a small vent fan just to keep things reasonably dry inside the cabinet.
CC
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