Camera question

[Jeremy_Martin]

In terms of reducing blur, it all comes down to shutter speed. A good rule of thumb is to keep it over 1/60th a sec. I like 1/200th of a sec for anything that's moving. To get a good exposure at a specific shutter speed you can change the lens apature (the f-stop), change the ISO (film speed), or add artificial light like with a flash. Good luck with whatever you get, but be careful. It can be a very expensive hobby, and we all already have one of them.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

In terms of reducing blur, it all comes down to shutter speed.

...and having a big enough aperture in the lens that you can still get enough light at high speeds! Which again repeats what some people have said, it's gonna depend on the glass, not just the body.

My "nice" digital camera is really old but even it can shoot as fast as I can press the button, so that's covered. I'd just get the cheapest body you like, and spend on a really nice standard zoom lens (i.e. a 28-80 or something like that), since that's where it sounds like 80% of your photos will be. Get one with a really low f-stop and you'll be able to use a fast shutter speed while still taking good photos.

And I'll second what NirvanaFan said about the screw-on macro "filters." Camera snobs will turn their noses at them but they can give really good results and $20 is sure better than $400.

 

[Capt_Cully]

Ok thanks dudes! I'm thoroughly convinced a T1i will be plenty. The lenses will be a different issue. I'll just stick with what I get and work outward. The Macro stuff isn't anything that tickles my fancy right now. Again, I'm just as good with my point and shoot when it comes to that.

Once I get one, we will expand the discussion.

 

[Capt_Cully]

Actually, lets say I get just the body, no lens at all. What would be a decent (not exorbitant) lens for all around 28-80 like Nate said.

 

[Jeremy_Martin]

Kit lenses are not too bad if you don't push them too hard. To step up in any appreciable way from them is going to cost you at least $500 up to $1500. Getting a lens with image stabilization would be the #1 thing I would look for. A good lens will also have a constant aperture, usually f4 or f2.8 for zoom lenses. In Canon the "L" series glass is top quality. I have the 24-105mm f4 and it is a workhorse. I would start with the kit and figure out how to use the SLR and then upgrade when you find out what you really need.

 

[Stusdesktop]

I use a Fuji for action shooting. When I get home this evening I'll link the model ( it's also a superzoom) and my Flickr account. You can check the pictures for some high speed archery, fencing, armored combat and jousting shots.

 

[Capt_Cully]

Man, I was just watching a T1i body on eBay, thought I was going to jump on it for $209 and it shot to $255 in last 10 seconds. I can go with factory lens and be done for like $300-350.

The point of all this was to get an older model and settle for 5 year old technology. Not drop $200-250 on a body the $700 on a lens.

 

[NirvanaFan]

The kit lens that comes with it will more than likely be fine. In fact, those are the only two lenses I have (18-55 and 55-200, both vibration reduction). When I need a prime lens, I just borrow my friends. Very rarely do I ever need it.

Couple any decent DSLR with a good flash, and you should be fine taking 99% of the pictures you want to take. I've got the SB-600 and am happy with it.

Photography can get addicting. I've got my camera, lenses, flashes, lighting equipment, a green screen, tripods, CD/DVD inkjet printer, and more.

 

[AmherstReef]

I picked up the Rebel T3i this summer before a family vacation. I upgraded to a single lens 18mm-135mm. The perfect walk around lens.

The only thing I need now is a quality macro for coral pics

 

[Stusdesktop]

Fuji HS20 exr 24 - 720 equivalent (30x zoom) is my go to camera, still learning how to use after replacing an older Fuji.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54005523@N03/sets for some action shots, older pictures are with the older Fuji.