Can I build a High amp to attach the Profilux device?

I think I must have a new one as my instructions are different

The new instructions that came with the unit say:

"The powerbar has no fuses inside -> therefore it must be
connected on a mains supply which is protected by a 15 amp fuse."
 
That is correct. And so will tanyas also.

The confusion is caused by yours truly I was not aware of the 200amp upgrade until today.

Anyway moving on swiftly cough cough! Even though some of you will have 200amp protected in rush relays PLEASE take my advise above regarding loadings of the power bar and the importance of HIGH AMP extensions.

The relays will protect against welding your relays shut with striking loads but it does nothing for the 15amp max load of the power bar.

Golden rule - MH lighting or high power T5 = Spread the load = High am extansion socket.

Starting to feel like a broken record now sorry guys!
 
I have to check my powerbar when I get home. I am pretty sure I have one of the new ones. Since I was not going to spread the load with the High Amp expansion anyways I might as well cancel that order. :)
 
Ok I can see where this is going and slightly concerns me.

So to clarify

The reason for the 200 amp upgrade is to eleviate the miss use of too high striking loads, correct.

However this must not be an excuse not to spread your loads properly across your ring main of your house.

As I said before if you use MH or Compacts T5's use the HIGH AMPs, you then have way more flexibility with other devises you may wish to run off the plug bar with little risk of over load.

As we live in a country(s) of 110V it does not take much to hit a 13amp (recommended not to exceed) target.

This is NOT sales driven it is SAFETY driven.

Bottom line as recommended - If you use high output lighting (most do) Please concider a HIGH AMP.
 
Actually both, when your MH start it's create a surge that may exceed the initial 15 amp, A ballast that start may get surge up to 40 amp for a very small moment, not enought to trip your household breaker, but with time will weld your powerbar in a open state permanetly.

Now the other part, which is a diferent mather completly for the previous one, is the continuous load, most household wall socket are protected by a breaker in panel that is rated for 15amp in most case, some 20amp but rarely. So if you try to pull more than 15 amp continuously alot of thing is going to happen to you. First your household wire and panel breaker will heat up alot, your panel breaker should also trip, but the ultimate worst case is if your breaker does trip because it's really old then thing start to worst, you wire can heat up to a point where it will become dangerous.

Anyone if him wrong please feel free to correct me!
 
If I may add since the new strips apparantly do not contain a
fuse then you have to be a little more careful in adding up to
make sure you dont go ove 15 amps Total for the strip.

Instead of popping just a fuse you may pop the whole strip.

This may be a good time to make sure your GFCI that your
digital strip is plugged into has a 15 amp breaker in it.
 
Onboard Circuit breakers could be a consideration in future. But would push the cost of the Digital power bar above the cost of a simple HIGH AMP

GHL always has our users safety in mind and when these days so many third party equipment types are pulling such high loads through a relative small voltage it is our duty to advise accordingly. If other controller manufacturers choose not to that is their own personal choice, as they all will have the same rating requiements.

But we put you first and give you the information as it really is, what you do with that info only you can decide. GHL has provided you with the tools to accomodate modern equipment ratings and loadings.

I just hope all this has provided a minimum of electrical safety awareness if nothing else.
 
Last edited:
The most neglicated thing when someone build a large reef system is the electricity, not that I am any better, but I decided to build a large reef system, one of my first action was to run 2 dedicated 15amp circuits from the Electrical panel to my tank, and once there I put one GFCI on each circuits also just to be on the safe side.
 
About 20 years a go I had a Powerhead with bad sealing.

I stuck my hands in and the jolt was quite shocking.

I now Always run A GFCI.
 
I think this subject has now been exhausted.

My final comment is as said many many times, calculate your load accurately if anywhere close to 13amps split the load with a high amp.

I think in life in general there is a lot of electrical miss conceptions and miss understandings, and with todays circuit breakers we rely on them way too much.
 
I still think it is a little short sighted not to provide a ghl controlled relay that can be used by those that wish to. I have many applications where a relay countrolled by the ghl would be a great advantage but when i suggested it in the hardware//software thread it was poo-poo'd. Im glad im not the only one who can see a market for these units and im also glad im not the only one who thinks they would be easy to make. Anyway, as you say, this thread is probably exhausted and there is no need for another reply.
Good day to you all! :)
 
GHL always look at ways to improve and I have spoken to Matthias about this yesterday.

If the demand was globally great enough I am sure it would be looked at again, as Matthias said he looks at all ideas.

As it was explained to me, as there are already enough devises produced by GHL to help spread the load at present there is not high enough demand to go into costly production of another similar devise.

The loading issues are mainly associated with USA usage due to the relative low voltage compared to Europe also. As you know the High AMP is not made for anywhere other than North America as there is not the general requirement.
 
You are still looking at demand based solely on home markets though. I work in a public aquarium and the facility to control 20 metal halides on one channel and 10 on another, 5 on another and a couple of 90 cubic meter an hour pumps on another would be a real advantage and at the cost of buying a PLC, relays, housing etc we would be prepared to buy an item specifically for the ghl just to save the cash! GHL has an opportunity to really get into the public aquarium market and make it work for them with just a little forward thinking. I imagine the cost to develop these items which are pretty simple would be much less than lets say the new chilling units, but in turn the R and D would cost less as would production.
 
To those who would like to have their own relay. Why not wire a relay to a 12v (or 5 or 6v) transformer. Plug the transformer into the powerbar and then do what you want.
 
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