Can ich be filtered out of the water?

Trailermann

New member
Yup, wondering if I can place a fine micron filter in line as I siphon out water from a suspect tank into a sterile one. Any knowledge on this subject? It makes sense to me but do not know if this is scientifically possible.
 
No, it is not. There was a thread a few years ago on that if you want to research the answers.
 
Well, you can filter the free swimming phase out of the water with a diatom or another micro filter, but this won't work as a treatment option since only a small portion of a tank's water goes through the filter and enough parasites remain there to reinfect fish.

A micro filter only works if either the tank is smaller than the filter (basically all the tank's water is pumped through the filter within a minute) or if the filter exits into a different tank to keep that tank ich free inside a connected system.
Though I wouldn't trust the health of my fish to this.
 
No, it is not. There was a thread a few years ago on that if you want to research the answers.
Still trying to get to the bottom of this. I respect your experience and knowledge, and especially your willingness to help others.

I did look back many years and found only two references to the subject of filtering out ich trophants. Both Pinnatas (11/03/14) and Ajolie (3/22/10) did state that one could filter out ich. But neither necessarily recommended using that to clear an infestation. Also neither referenced the science behind their statement, other than the logic of the size of the ich versus the fineness of the filter.

My plan, while obviously laborious, would be to siphon and filter (one micron) the top water of the first TTM tank and partially fill the second. Then add properly adjusted RODI to fill the second half or two thirds of the second clean tank. In the course of four transfers, watching carefully for build up of ammonia.

I do not expect you support for this, but would respect your thoughts on this keeping any ich from being transferred.
 
following along on this one just to understand the "whys" behind doing this if you're already doing TTM as indicated. No offense intended to the OP just curious.
 
I am always trying to find a better way, even better than the tried and proven methods described here. The reasoning behind my effort to use some of the first transfer tank's water is to make reduce the slight stress on the fish being transferred.
 
All Cryptocaryon stages have a finite size so with the right micron filter they can be captured.

However, within an infected tank you get at best a thinning effect on the free swimming phases but a complete elimination is highly unlikely.

Another issue is that the required micron size creates a high resistance to the pump. To get any meaningful flow you need a very large filter and a strong, high pressure pump.
On top of that the filter will clog up quickly, making the whole idea impractical.

This only works when you pump water from one tank to another (clean and empty one) = all the water in the destination tank has passed the filter.
But even then you still have some risk as filters are not always perfect. One little leak stream around the filter medium and the whole process may be in vain.
 
I am always trying to find a better way, even better than the tried and proven methods described here. The reasoning behind my effort to use some of the first transfer tank's water is to make reduce the slight stress on the fish being transferred.

like ThROewer said, ich can be filtered out. however, NH4 becomes a problem when reuseing the water on transfers.
 
OK, you guys win. I give up. My efforts to refine the TTM appear to be impractical at best. thanks for your multiple inputs.

As I think back, all my tank transfers have been successful. If the fish were stressed by being quickly thrown from one the old tank to the new water, it never (so far) has appeared to have hurt them. I will stick with the tried and proven!

But I do like the recommendation from other threads to quarantine coral, rocks, inverts et. al. Yes I have patience.
 
Why so complicated?

All you need is to TTM the water too.
The free Theront stage is only infective for 24h and are dead after 48.
The ripe Protomont stage encysts latest after a day and its tomites hatch earliest 3 days later.

To get ich free water you just need to siphon the water out of the TTM tank into another clean vessel, let it stand for two days and then pour in into another clean tank.

If you want it extra clean you can use a diatom filter to ump it from one vessel to the next.

Make sure you keep the temperature between around 25°C.

Ridding the water of ich is actually quite easy - as long as you have no fish in it.
 
You folks are missing the point completely. In tank transfer, there are never any of the infective stage of the life cycle as it never has the opportunity to exist. Just stick with the published method, it works. Throw the water away, dry the tank and get on with life.
 
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