Can't Grow "CERTAIN" Zoa's (In Mature Healthy Tank). Photo (Is this ChemicalWarfare?)

hmm, glad things are going better now. It is interesting that you decided to remove the zebra hermit, I haven't read/seen anything that would indicate possible irritation.

I am sure the automatic alk dosing is helping a lot though! I too dose my tank every once in a while, and noticed my Mg was at 1140 while Alk was at 7. Shortly after making the adjustments all of my corals looked 10000x times better. This of course, could have been the placebo effect. I now am looking at doing an auto doser with a jabeo set-up.

Yes, I put back the Zebra hermit, and to be safe, I throw in a few tiny pellets to sink to the bottom (not every day), so all the hermits have something to eat (other than Zoa's :) ). I may put back the Emerald crab, but he loves the sump.

Yes, I do agree with Dosing automatically, and this tank used to be dosed (Randy's A/B formula) but I borrowed the Dosing pumps for my SPS only tank, which needs it a lot more (for stability). LPS and Soft Corals can handle the little swings. And like you did, bringing back Alk will perk them up each time. It's either Dosing, or more frequent Water changes. But Alk/Calc dosing doesn't bring back lost trace elements, so I am switching my A/B dosing to better quality like (ESV) to include also some trace elements.

I also feed my Zoa's now once a week (Reef Roids, and Coral Frenzy). ONLY ONCE A WEEK (since any more, means algae).

And today, I just added a Algae Blenny to start picking at the little algae that is coming back (due to weekly Coral feedings, which are needed for Zoa's and Acans to keep them healthy. I learned that not feeding Zoa's makes them not too happy. Especially since I only have 1 fish)
 
Are These Colonial Hydroids Spreading all over my Tanks rocks?

I been feeding the Zoa's and that has helped Zoa's.

But I'm getting what appears to be Colonial Hyroids spreading over the tank. Kind of started when I also dosed ZeoVit Sponge Power.

Will try getting a more focused photo. but can anyone confirm what these are? I don't think they are Baby Zoa's.

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Zoa and Hydroids (Appears I can't have one without the other).

So as this thread started, I haven't been able to keep Zoa's for years.

And now things have really taken off with the Zoa's like never before. I have a nice color mix and the tank is looking very promising (Zoa wise).

BUT with this feeding that I've been doing for the Zoa's it appears it's also feeding the Hydroids. Pretty sure the (Hydroids) probably hitchhiked with the Zoa pods I bought, but they never flourished till I started feeding the tank.

Tonight, I was starting to look into remedies for the Hydroids, but everything appears to be drastic measures (and most measure don't really work anyway).

I've also read that Hydroids could just be a cycle and they may go away.

Will continue to observe the Hydriod outbreak, but I think I need to continue to move forward with the Zoa's (and not stop feeding the tank, to stop the Hydroids).

Maybe if these Zoa's take off and cover the rocks, they could out compete the Hydriods and use up the nutrients to starve the Hydriods.

I do plan to put back the Emerald Crab, since I've read that they may eat Hydroids.

BTW. The Algae Blenny is gone. I figure the Hawkfish killed him, since there were fish particle floating in my tank a day after he disappeared.
 
Update.

I stopped Dosing the Zevit Sponge Power a week ago, and the Hyrdoid outbreak has stopped.

It's starting to look like Hydroids are actually shrinking.

I am target feeding corals very closely to not feed the tank suspended food.

I know hydroids will never go away, but if they remain under control and don't increase in size or quantity that if fine by me.

BTW. I got another larger Algae Blenny. This one is doing wonders. Cleaning all Algae patches so well, I am starting to worry he won't have enough to eat eventually. May have to start putting in some SeaWeed sheets.
 
I know hydroids will never go away, but if they remain under control and don't increase in size or quantity that if fine by me.

sure they will , like all animals they need the basics of things to survive restrict those things and they will surely die off , place a thick sheet of epoxy over the hydroids like a blanket , press down around on the outer edges like a pie and leave for a couple weeks , you can either remove the epoxy easily later or let corals grow over it carefull not to stab yourself with the hydroids they can be sharp:)
 
sure they will , like all animals they need the basics of things to survive restrict those things and they will surely die off , place a thick sheet of epoxy over the hydroids like a blanket , press down around on the outer edges like a pie and leave for a couple weeks , you can either remove the epoxy easily later or let corals grow over it carefull not to stab yourself with the hydroids they can be sharp:)

Good idea, but they are kind of everywhere. Impossible to cover them. They are in nook and crannies. A polyp here and there. Covering with epoxy would make tank a visible mess, and use up a lot.

As I said they are thinning out. Not in quantity but each polyp size. I assume due to my effort to Target Feed corals.

I was considering another option. One of my Aquarium stores sell's a Aptasia Zapper. It a long stick with a metal pin at the end. A wire goes to a high votage transformer. You zap with high voltage any unwanted things like aptasia, mushrooms (they use it for incoming wild corals to clean them of unwanted hitchhikers). I called them today and they said it would work on Hydroids as well.

If thing get out of control I may get one, but no hurry. They are $50.
 
FINALLY (Got Lighting Setting figured out for ALL Corals to Like it!! ) :

So after months of tuning the lights to get all kinds of Corals to get Happy, I think I have reach a ideal setting.

I had issues with Zoa's not liking the Kessil, then LPS not having enough light, to other acclimatization challenges.

I make this programming change as below (to lower Kesil Intensity) during the time when T5's come on (T5 Full Pair, and T5 Dimmable Pair).

And kaboom!! All corals are Happy at the same time, all day.
Been like 3-4 days.

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Added 6 Chromis Fish a couple of week ago (Tank Doing Better with Natural Nutrients)

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I added 6 Blue Green Chromis ,which has sparked up tank activity.

Added an Algae Blenny who is keep the tank Algae free nicely.

I also put back the ATI Purple Plus bulb since Algae is gone from Algae Blenny, which is why the colors have improved.

Interesting part is the higher I place the Zoa's the better they are doing. So it appears I'm past acclimatization and can possible increase lighting. (But I've saving all the Light Settings, since I'm really tuned in right for health).
 
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Appears the Nutrients from the Fish Load is Helping

So it's been a few weeks with the Extra BioLoad after adding the Blue/Green Chromis School.

They are eating quite a bit, and I can tell this is helping all the Corals.
I now Target Feed the Corals every other week.

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Look's great !
Congrats on succeeding in winning the battle & dialing things in.
Thanks.

Tank continues to flourish. Got the confidence to purchase some high end Paly's & Zoa's (Darth Maul, Utter Chaos, Blue & Purple Hornets)

But that Finger Leather is just getting too big and shading some good Real Estate spots. (The price of progress :) )

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sure they will , like all animals they need the basics of things to survive restrict those things and they will surely die off , place a thick sheet of epoxy over the hydroids like a blanket , press down around on the outer edges like a pie and leave for a couple weeks , you can either remove the epoxy easily later or let corals grow over it carefull not to stab yourself with the hydroids they can be sharp:)

This. Also I forget the name but there's an additive that kills them too, I think maybe Fluke tabs.

I wouldn't underestimate hydroids, they can eat your tank and sting hard enough to kill some corals. I had those same ones and it took 3 years to get them all.
 
This. Also I forget the name but there's an additive that kills them too, I think maybe Fluke tabs.

I wouldn't underestimate hydroids, they can eat your tank and sting hard enough to kill some corals. I had those same ones and it took 3 years to get them all.

So how did you eradicate the Hydroids after 3 years?

Would love to find out if there is an Additive, but I doubt it.
Whatever would kill a Hyrdriod would have to hurt the other corals. I assume this solution would be a treatment done outside of tank.

I had a rock that was removable, and a blow torch singe did it. They never grew back (at least on that rock).

I have been trying to contain them and GOT one of the Aptasia Zappers. It's an Eletrode you place in the tank with a Titanium tip. There is a transformer and it will zap/vapourize anything in the tank. I have controller some Palays, and Mushroom with it (Works like a charm). It literally vaporizes a hairy mushroom, paly, anything made of liquid and flesh. I am careful with Palys since they can release toxins, so I run carbon in the system when zapping, and fine net catch any vapourized gunk (since it floats to top).

This link below is a similar model. Mine cost only $49.
https://www.tbaquatics.com/algae-cleaners-pest-control/majano-wand-majano-zapper/

I used the zapper on the hydroids, and it works, but they always come back in a few weeks since their roots are deep. But it helps contain any further spreading.
 
So how did you eradicate the Hydroids after 3 years?

With reef putty, just kept puttying over them every time they popped up.

I had a rock that was removable, and a blow torch singe did it. They never grew back (at least on that rock).

That's why it took 3 years. I'd start on them asap since it's a whole different ball game once they spread to parts of your rocks that you can't see like the back of your tank.
 
With reef putty, just kept puttying over them every time they popped up.



That's why it took 3 years. I'd start on them asap since it's a whole different ball game once they spread to parts of your rocks that you can't see like the back of your tank.

I'm DOOMED!!!

I have spots of Hydroids in many place.

Places I can't reach easy.

Plus how much putty will I need. The stuff ain't cheap.

I know these Hyroids are aggressive, but can other corals fight back?
Will Palys/Zoas overgrown them? or will They kill the Palys/Zoas.
 
ok. I'm going to start attacking the Colonia Hydroids more aggressively.

I noticed that after I Zap them they go away, but after a week they slowly start coming back (I guess spreading from the one's I missed zapping).

Instead of waiting a week, I'll zap daily any that I missed.

I'll see how things go.

At the same time, any loose rocks with Hydrioids I'll remove and blast them with a blow torch like before. The flame gets into the nooks and crannies and burns them down to the base.

I also have some purple putty that I can patch some un-removable rock.

There is nothing I can do to the unreachable places. I guess I have to live with the fact that this 90 Gallon tank with about 200lbs of live rock will be hydroid infected for life.

Hoping that the Paly's and zoa's get access to clean rock and overgrow/resist the hydroids.
 
So I picked up one of the Pencil Blow Torches at Home Depot.

Will try on one rock to see if burning the Hydroids will work. Pencil flame may be more precise than a regular torch.

I am being cautious on safety since burning live rock could release TOXIN smoke. So I'll doing the burn off in the garage with a Fan blowing away from me.

Also I built this dremil power tool attachment during a Algae Bloom I had last year.
It might be good to blast away the hard to reach Hydroids. I have to pull it out storage an try it.
Here is a you tube movie (fake advertisement) I did a while ago
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0FJ9_R6Fyg
 
Plus how much putty will I need. The stuff ain't cheap.

I know these Hyroids are aggressive, but can other corals fight back?
Will Palys/Zoas overgrown them? or will They kill the Palys/Zoas.

ime no corals kill them or keep them at bay, they sting stronger than any coral. I've had them kill zoas and palys, especially if one sprouted in the middle of a colony.

Tweezers worked great, for the harder to reach ones it doesn't take much putty at all, just enough to completely cover them and some of the rock next to them. You need to make sure they're completely covered though, otherwise a few months later a bunch of them will start poking out around the edges of the putty.
 
I spent some time today, pulling out most loose plugs with Corals (Zoas, Palys, Torches, Acans)

Put them into a QT tank.

I now have access to much of the rock scape that I want to grow the plug corals on. Want to make their base rock as Hydroid free as possible.

Tomorrow the loose rocks come out for a easy putty covering.

Been zapping whatever I now see left in the tank.

I've decide no Blow Torching for now. Too dangerous. I have lots of Zoa's and Palys, and there could be one inside a cranny.
The smoke from burning one could be EXTREMELY Dangerous (to eyes, lungs, etc)

If I ever consider that option, it would have to be in summer, plenty of ventilaztion, Goggles, breathing mask, painters clothes, etc.
Just not worth poisoning or killing myself. (Recently read some Warning articles about Paly Toxin).
 
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Cool.

I just discovered something useful.

I recently got a couple of those Chinese UV (Blue LED) Flashlights to observe my SPS coral at night for Polyp Extensions, and seeing SPS glow where growth is happening.

When I shine the light on even the smallest Hydriod Poly, it's tip glows green.
I came across this discouvery tonight when I shined into my New Frag tank to check out the removed Plugs. (and there on a plug was a Hydriod glowing green, that I never saw)

This will help find them in the tank. Even the youngest starters.
 
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