Can't Grow "CERTAIN" Zoa's (In Mature Healthy Tank). Photo (Is this ChemicalWarfare?)

[Wally.B]

HYRDROID WARS

So if you haven't been part of the ALGAE WARS movie making thread here it is.

After last Battle with Algae Made a movie and ALGAE WARS Episode 2 is coming out this week.

THIS IS THE THREAD that started the movie (Algae Struggle and CUC)
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2546250&page=7

Here is the movie (Algae Wars Episode 1) from last year.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycQ9YPuAaVk

So this new battle is now Hydroid WARS. And I think this battle will take much more time as you mention (3 years for you). Mine will take more based my current observations (I'm infested all over). Seem to me hopeless, but I will try my best. Promising news is that my Paly growths are not affected, and I'm hoping solid coverage over time will give less places for hydroids to attach.

FIRST I must remove the Hydroids on the pumps. They must be seeding the tank.

NEXT will be removing and cleaning loose rocks.

As shown below.

In above Photo, the loose coral have been removed.

And stored in QT Frag Tank while I clean DT as best as I can.

 

[Wally.B]

Colonial Hydroid Blasting/Torching (Couldn't Resist)

I took out that Pencil torch and saw how pin point that (3200 Degree F) flame was.

Couldn't resist trying it on a small rock.

Barely a puff of smoke. They fried while I giggled.

Now I'll watch to see if they come back. (I highly doubt it, but you never know)

 

[Wally.B]

Tweezers worked great, for the harder to reach ones .....

Hey, thanks for the tweezer idea.

At first I brushed it off thinking that would only work for the rocks I remove, but these pinching forceps I have are great. I can almost reach anywhere, and around corners, to get any tall Hydroids RIGHT IN THE TANK (Won't be perfect, but will reduce the population).

Plus, I've been using the forceps them to chomp at the Live Rock (Since they have bite, and long arm leverage). The rock is crusty and crumbly, so I can get deeper in at the Hydroids.

BTW. I think the torch works best. Maybe drain the tank 90% (for fish sake) into a reservoir (I can since no SPS) and blast the buggers.

 

[Wally.B]

Found the Queen Hydroid Hive.

Hey "Organism", many thanks for the words of encouragement, inspiration to tackle the Hydroids, Sooner rather than Later.

Since I am off this week I had time to tackle this long overdue Hydroid War.

I worked on a few small rocks and it wasn't much of a task plucking them clean.

However when I remove a recessed rock in the middle of the rock scape it was totally infested with Hydroids. It isn't going back in for a while.

I soaked it in Vinegar, but not too long as to dissolve the rock.
Now I'm soaking it in fresh water.
I'll blowtorch and scrub it clean and kill the rock, till someday when I want the piece.

At least this buys me some time till the summer when I can do a better job.

So after the best I could do effort, I put back the rock and corals, since family will be over for Christmas.

Since I had the corals out, I did some tidy up putting them back.
I like the layout and coral placements better.

Thank again.

 

[Wally.B]

New Tank Renovate (finger leather removed)

When Actinic lights came on, I was disappointed. Many of the Corals under the Center Leather were not glowing form Actinic lights. LEATHER was Shading them all.

I've been planning for sometime to remove it, and now was the time.
It's in QT Tank and I'll sell it, trade it, whatever.

HERE IS THE NEW TANK LOOK.

Much more ROCK REAL-ESTATE for coral spread growth.
Better circulation with that WATER DAM Gone. I can tell the Acan's like the better flow.

ALSO HAVE A nice FLAT Top Spot High up (Middle under Kessil). Placed my First SPS up there. A "Bird of Paradise" Perfect flowing kind of SPS to match the LPS look.

Looking forward to spring for a proper Hydroid Clean up. NOT!!

No where near done right now.

 

[Wally.B]

One more Photo with Actinic Lights Only..., the whole reason the Leather is Gone and not missed at all.
(Missed only by the Long Nose Hawkfish since it was one of his Hangouts).

If I can manage to Keep the Zoa's growing and spreading. Plus the Acans, Ricordias and Mixed LPS... this tank will Eventually look like fireworks show each evening.

That was my goal and reason This Thread got Started.

 

[Wally.B]

There may be hope for killing Hydroids. Passing this on from another thread I am in.

I found this article on "r e e f 2 r e e f " talking about a complete cure for Digitate Hydroids: http://www.*********.com/threads/here-it-is-fenbendazole-use-against-hydroids.214950/

and one of our facebook group guys recommended it as it killed all of his hydroids by following the exact instructions in that post. he although said one of his GSP heads is dead which the method creator warned about. they say that you can use it in your tank directly if you isolate all snails and GSPs alone. attention should be paid when you isolate them not to take with them any digitate hydroids that could find a way back in your DT.

i got the Fish Bendazole of Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009TAQ4OI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and waiting for the package to arrive. ill use it on my tank and report back the results.

The other forum thread is here.
http://gtaaquaria.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1482386#post1482386

 

[Wally.B]

Another good article on using Fenbendazole for Eliminating Hydroids.

With good picture details on how the process works.

https://maxdraco.wordpress.com/2013/03/14/fenbendazole-eliminate-invasive-soft-corals-blue-cloves-polyps-xenia-aiptasia-hydriods-etc/

After reviewing this I'm pretty convinced, I'll be treating the hydroid rocks by removing them and treating in my Quarantine Tank.
** THIS TREATMENT APPEARS TO BE Quite Harmful (other reading "google Panacur"). Stays in Live Rock and will harm Snails that graze on the live rock, will wipe out biodiversity in a DT. Unknown coral damage, etc **

I should be able to remove most of nasty hydroid rocks from the DT and just treat those.

Then consider future treatments as needed.

 

[rickzter]

In all my reefing experience and enjoying zoa's, every zoa is just different. Some like high light while others enjoy low light low flow. Hell I've even see bristles eat my zoas. Zoa pox is another culprit and even nudis. In the future try different placements and see if it's not the placement , I.e. light intensity that's killing them.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

[Wally.B]

In all my reefing experience and enjoying zoa's, every zoa is just different. Some like high light while others enjoy low light low flow. Hell I've even see bristles eat my zoas. Zoa pox is another culprit and even nudis. In the future try different placements and see if it's not the placement , I.e. light intensity that's killing them.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

I agree with you. Each is a roll of a dice with success.
I find I have better success if I get a few polyps instead of just one, but the high ends are pricey for multiple polyps.

 

[Wally.B]

Queen Hydroid Rock Clean (Take 1)

This isn't the Dip Method, but I cleaned up the First Queen Hive Rock.

Just soaked it in diluted Vinegar for a hour.
Then in Fresh water for a few days.
Then back in Salt Water for couple days.
Blow torched it, and plucked it with cutter.

Now it soaking in my QT Tank for final cleanup Polishing and bring it back to life.

I kind of like this method since it's pure and chemical/medicine free.

Risk Free, but all corals have to be removed for the Rock Curing.

I couldn't do this to all my rocks, so hoping the dip method will work.

 

[rickzter]

I agree with you. Each is a roll of a dice with success.
I find I have better success if I get a few polyps instead of just one, but the high ends are pricey for multiple polyps.

That's why I stay away from high end, zoa's are like u said a roll of the dice. A lot of people say they are hardy, but u can lose them overnight like acro.

And yes, if u get in clusters the better your chances. I've seen zoa's do bad and one polyp harnesses the energy of the colony so ur chance of keeping them is greater for sure.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

[Wally.B]

That's why I stay away from high end, zoa's are like u said a roll of the dice. A lot of people say they are hardy, but u can lose them overnight like acro.

And yes, if u get in clusters the better your chances. I've seen zoa's do bad and one polyp harnesses the energy of the colony so ur chance of keeping them is greater for sure.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

Yup, I just lost a Purple Hornet (overnight), I get a feeling a hermit picked it off for it to be gone so fast. Hermit is in Sump since I saw him picking at another Zoa.

But good news is the Blue Hornet pair is now 3, and the LA Laker is hanging in, The Darth Maul and Utter Chaos are doing very well.

If there survive, I'm done collecting Zoa's and Palys.

 

[Wally.B]

11 MONTHS (LATER) TANK Photo Update

Hydroids continue (but haven't treated the tank yet).
Maybe I'll treat next summer, but my tests in TEST Tank show Hydroids come back even after Treatment.

Even mushroom have started spreading a lot. Better than those Green Paly's which I keep Zapping to control them.

LPS Corals continue to Flourish.

This photo is after some LPS pruning and one move.

Even the Zoa garden has Started. Zoa's appeared from nowhere (since non were added)
Some Rasta's, and other nice one.