Check this out!!! Crazy

Interesting issues pointed out here.

I do think that the behaviour of ich in a diverse, mature reef tank is not fully understood. While I fully endorse a comprehensive QT process, and have no reason to disagree with the published experts on the matter, my own observations after many years of keeping reef tanks suggests that ich CAN be managed. Doesn't mean it will always be manageable, but that it can be in certain circumstances. Trouble is, I cannot reliably state what those circumstances are, beyond anecdotal observation that my fish are clear. For example, I have been managing ich in my reef tank for close to 8 months now. I have a few fish that would be characterized as 'ich magnets' yet they are clear. I do occasionally see an ich spot, but only occasionally.

How does one explain this?

Although I think what I have is ich (95% certain), perhaps it is something else? Perhaps different strains of ich exhibit different levels of aggressiveness, and I have a mild one? Perhaps a divers, mature reef tank contains ich predators - after all, everything has a predator? Perhaps high flow, heavy skimming and UV reduces parasite pressures to the point that ich can be managed?

Clearly there are far worse things than ich, and as I noted, I do QT all fish and inverts. I also think there is value in experience - it may well be that a newcomer will fare far less well in attempting to manage ich.

Just my random thoughts on the subject!
 
I have no doubt ich can be successfully managed. Heck, I've done it myself. And there's something about Brook (clownfish) and Uronema (chromis) that keeps those diseases (usually) confined to those species. Bacterial infections can most times be overcome thru proper nutrition/vitamin supplements. I'll give you all that.

But how do you guys dodge Marine Velvet without QT? I've encountered it (in QT) probably at least half dozen times in the past 4-5 years.
 
Maybe I am lucky, maybe I don't pick sick fish, or maybe my tank also take care of MV the way it take care of Ich. I have never have anything but minor case of Ich in my tank for the last 20 years.
My fish died too, don't get me wrong.
About 12 months ago, I got 3 RG for my system. I put them in a 93 g cube, one of two cube tanks in the system with a sump. They developed fin rots and two died but the third one did fine. They got this as soon as they go into my tank. It was from the LFS but I did not see this there. They did not passed it to any of my other fishes. I ended up with just one lone Male RG for 1 year. Recently I added 5 more small RG to my tank to form a harem. All are doing well in my DT.
I had several fish died due to my many carpets. One PBT killed in a tank move. Spook and droves right into my carpet. A pair of Leopard wrasse, a pair of Mandarin and a pair of Orchid Dotty back killed by my carpets. I just have too many Carpets of death in my tank. This really affect my ability to keep certain fish. Inquisitive fish and sand/rock surface type of fish will not survive in my tank.
My second Regal Angel was recently harassed to death by my resident Regal. I could not catch one of them out in time. Hard to catch a fish out in a 320 g tank.

The two Royal Gramma death were the first diseased death for me for well over 10 years.
 
Other than the first year or two, I don't add much fish into the system. I have been adding fish to my DT for the last year. I am still need to add a second Regal Angel to my system and then a Powder Blue Tang. This will be it for me for the foreseeable future. My build thread is on the Large Tank Forum. If you are interested, I have document my build there.I guess I don't exposed my fish to disease that much since I rarely add new fish to the system.
 
I have no doubt ich can be successfully managed. Heck, I've done it myself. And there's something about Brook (clownfish) and Uronema (chromis) that keeps those diseases (usually) confined to those species. Bacterial infections can most times be overcome thru proper nutrition/vitamin supplements. I'll give you all that.

But how do you guys dodge Marine Velvet without QT? I've encountered it (in QT) probably at least half dozen times in the past 4-5 years.

I'm treating Velvet right now with copper. There is no way to dodge it. IMO it's less common than ICH unless you buy fish from Petco. The one by me has Brook, Velvet, ICH, Flukes, and you name it....constantly in their system. Never goes away.

Here's a pic of Velvet when it first appeared. It's a very deadly and rapid killer. Copper is the best way to treat it IMO.



 
I had several fish died due to my many carpets. One PBT killed in a tank move. Spook and droves right into my carpet. A pair of Leopard wrasse, a pair of Mandarin and a pair of Orchid Dotty back killed by my carpets. I just have too many Carpets of death in my tank. This really affect my ability to keep certain fish. Inquisitive fish and sand/rock surface type of fish will not survive in my tank.

Many years ago, I lost probably 5-6 fish to a green carpet. I kept moving it - it kept moving back & setting up shop right near a major fish thoroughfare. :headwalls: Even when I moved it to the other side of the tank. Probably wanted to be in that spot on purpose; figured it was good "hunting grounds". :uhoh2:

Instead of dismantling my rock work to remove the thoroughfare, I got rid of the anemone & clowns. I don't think I'd keep a carpet again except in a clown species tank.


My build thread is on the Large Tank Forum. If you are interested, I have document my build there.

I'll check it out!

I'm treating Velvet right now with copper. There is no way to dodge it. IMO it's less common than ICH unless you buy fish from Petco. The one by me has Brook, Velvet, ICH, Flukes, and you name it....constantly in their system. Never goes away.

Amen to that! All but 2 of the MV infected fish I have treated came from Petco. Chloroquine phosphate works great on MV!
 
Humblefish can testify. Mysterious fish deaths suck. Even the fish that have built up immunity can die later on and you would never know why because sometimes ICH will not be visible. If the fish is weak or sick, he will be unable to fight off the parasites as he normally would. That fish may get one or two small spots during this time- that you may never notice. ICH can remain in the gills undetected. The Trophont stage is the only visible stage of ICH and if the fish has a mild infection, you will probably never see the spots. It only last about 3-7 days and the Trophont's will exit the fish and are now called Protomont's and begin to crawl around on the substrate before they encyst and make thousands more.

That's only ICH...

I've had Velvet and Brook in the last month as well. I guess you can say I've got the triple crown as Dascamel would put it.

Out of the 7 QT tanks I have, 4 were for new fish arrivals. Only three were built to treat anemones.

After loosing a lot of fish to many different diseases/parasites, I got sick of it and started hanging around the disease forum. It was then that I realized just how vital it is to QT every fish that comes into your system. It does not matter 1% if the fish looks good and you see no visible symptoms.

I don't like mysterious fish deaths and I refuse to have them anymore.

Only trust yourself!!!

Check out this information posted by Snorvich:


Cryptocaryon irritans (Marine Ich)

So what about Marine Ich (cyrptocaryon irritans)?
The life cycle of this parasite is interesting and is important to understand when evaluating a treatment. The stage where the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish and that is what you see symptomatically when you see "salt sprinkled on the fish". After that, the trophont leaves the fish and becomes what is called a protomont. This protomont travels to the substrate and begins to crawl around for usually two to eight hours, but it could go for as long as eighteen hours after it leaves it's fish host. Once the protomont attaches to a surface, it begins to encyst and is now called a tomont. Division inside the cyst into hundreds of daughter parasites, called tomites, begins shortly thereafter. This noninfectious stage can last anywhere from three to twenty-eight days. During this extended period, the parasite cyst is lying in wait for a host. After this period, the tomites hatch and begin swimming around, looking for a fish host. At this point, they are called theronts, and they must find a host within twenty-four hours or die. They prefer to seek out the skin and gill tissue, then transform into trophonts, and begin the process all over again. What this means is that when your tank is infected, you can actually see symptoms during a very small part of the life cycle, and it why your tank is infected even though your fish are resistant. It will also explain why symptoms come and go.

Many hobbyists are fooled into believing they have cured their fish of the parasites, only to find Ich present again on fish a few weeks later; a reason why following through with a full treatment protocol is so important. Don't make this mistake and be lulled into a false sense of security. The parasites may be in a stage where they are merely regrouping and multiplying for their "next offensive." In the wild, this sort of massive reproductive phase ensures that a few will find a suitable host to continue on the cycle. In the close confines of our aquariums, though, it means comparatively massive infection rates.

This disease is usually associated with several environmental triggers. Changes in water temperature, exposure to high levels of ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate, low pH levels, low dissolved oxygen often associated with overcrowding, are all factors contributing to the onset of the disease. You could lump all of these in a general category of "stress", but it is more appropriate to think of all of these as "unnatural conditions". In fact, Cryptocaryon irritans is rare in the wild even more unlikely to be lethal. Ich is truly a disease that exploits the conditions of captivity to reproduce and easily find suitable hosts.

By the way, trophonts are under the skin so cleaner wrasses and cleaner shrimp have no real effect on reducing this parasite.



Treatments which work and Myths and Truths about Marine Ich

Treatments which work:

1. Hyposalinity - Using a refractometer, hold salinity at 11ppt to 12ppt until 4 weeks after the last spot was seen. (Best to use salinity, but if you use specific gravity, that equates to roughly 1.008 to 1.009 sp. gr. units). Raise salinity slowly and observe fish for 4 more weeks. It is difficult to control pH and water quality during treatment, however this is the least stressful treatment for the fish.

2. Copper treatment - Follow medication recommendations. This can be effective in 2 to 4 weeks of treatment. After treatment, remove all copper and observe fish for 4 more weeks. Copper is a poison to the fish and creates some stress.

3.. Transfer method "“ The fish is moved from tank to tank to separate the fish from the cysts that fall off and the free-swimming stages of the parasite. Two hospital tanks are needed to perform this treatment. The fish is stressed by having to keep moving it between these hospital tanks.

4. These are the ONLY 3 known cures that work almost 100% of the time. Other chemicals will kill the Cryptocaryon irritans parasite, but only in special conditions that are not good for the fish. Some chemicals will only kill some of the organisms, letting the others escape death to go on to multiply and infect.

Observations, Claims, and Common Myths:

1. Some Tangs seem more susceptible. This is true. Their mucous coatings are reduced in thickness and composition.

2. Cryptocaryon irritans goes away on its own. This is definitely NOT true. While Cryptocaryon irritans is only visible at one stage of its life cycle if it was once seen, then it hasn't gone away -- it's just not visible to the aquarist. Reread the life cycle described above.

3. It goes away with a "˜reef-safe' remedy. This is not true; we all wish it was. This is one of the biggest and most 'dangerous' of the misrepresentations in the hobby. The aquarist thinks everything is okay when it isn't. What usually has happened is that the parasite has killed the fish it is able to kill and the rest have developed a resistance or immunity. The parasite is still in the aquarium, possibly infecting the gills of the fish where it can't be seen. About 40% of fish seem able to develop this immunity.

4. It was gone then when a new fish is added, it is there again. This is not true. See 3 above. Cryptocaryon irritans wasn't really gone or the new fish brought in the disease with it. A new addition to an aquarium can be the stress which triggers the other fish to reduce their defense or immunity, this will allow the parasite to 'bloom' to the point where the infection is now again visible to the aquarist.

5. The fish lived through the last outbreak then died during the second or subsequent outbreak. This can be true. The fish had a resistance or immunity that it lost.

6. It was accurately diagnosed as Cryptocaryon irritans, then never showed up again. It wasn't ich or the fish quickly developed an immediate immunity or resistance, or the fish is still infected in the gills.

7. Cryptocaryon irritans can "˜hang around' almost unnoticed with just a body spot now and then because it often resides just in the gills. This is true.

8. Aquariums always have Cryptocaryon irritans. This is untrue. Cryptocaryon irritans can be kept out of an aquarium. Just quarantine all fish, rock, sand, sponges, and filter medium and don't let non-quarantined livestock get into the aquarium.

9. Fish always have Cryptocaryon irritans. Untrue. In the wild fish often show up to a 30% infection rate (or more) but the wild fish survive minor infections. In the tank the parasite can 'bloom' since In the tank the fish can't get away. The combination of bloom and no escape will overcome the fish. In capture and transportation the fish can share the disease and thus many wild caught marine aquarium fishes do have this parasite, but not all.

10. A fish can't be made to be totally rid of Cryptocaryon irritans. Untrue. All marine fish can be cured and rid of any Cryptocaryon irritans infection.

11. Just feed the fish well and/or feed it garlic and it will be okay. Not true. Nutrition, foods, vitamins, etc. don't cure an infected fish. An infected fish is sick and is being tortured by the itching and discomfort. It might pull through and acquire resistance or immunity (see above) but the fish is being stressed by having to contend with a parasite. Don't let this happen to the fish. Cure it!!

12. A new cure has been discovered. Very unlikely. If the aquarist thinks they have found a new cure, then have it researched and independently tested. It's easy and cheap. If it is as good as the above 3 tried and true methods then the professional veterinarians, private and public aquariums, fish farms, and I will use it. The aquarist needs to keep the perspective of how devastating this parasite is not to just the hobby but to the whole fish farming industry. Any new way of 100% treatment will make headlines!

13. If the Cryptocaryon irritans can't always be detected, then why bother with a quarantine procedure? In the confines of a small quarantine and being there for no less than 6 weeks, the Cryptocaryon irritans parasite will make itself known because the fish is weakened and the fish can't get away from being re-infected by multiplying Cryptocaryon irritans parasites. In other words, the quarantine procedure instigates a 'bloom' of the parasite which will make it visible to the aquarist. When this happens, treatment is appropriate with one of the three proven treatments.

14. All white nodules fall off the fish and move on to the cyst stage. Untrue. It has been discovered that, on very rare occasions (we don't know why) the white nodule will encyst and rupture while still on the fish.

15. UV and/or Ozone kills Cryptocaryon irritans. Ozone doesn't kill all parasites that pass through the unit, nor does the water treated with ozone kill the parasites. UV only kills the parasites that pass through the unit. Since the entire water volume does not pass through the unit, not all ich parasites will pass through the unit, so the UV will not rid an aquarium of Cryptocaryon irritans. A UV can help prevent a 'bloom' of the parasites however, and thus help in its control. UV is not a cure nor a preventative measure for Cryptocaryon irritans. When water is shared by multiple tanks, usage of UV can make spreading this parasite from tank to tank significantly less likely.

16. All spots are Cryptocaryon irritans. Untrue. Probably one of the most problematic causes for rumors and "œmyth-information" in the hobby is assuming that a spot is Cryptocaryon irritans when it may be another parasites or conditions (e.g., pimple-like reaction to infection) that look like Cryptocaryon irritans. The mis-diagnosis is often the cause for claims of what cured Cryptocaryon irritans, when the fish didn't have Cryptocaryon irritans to start with.

17. My LFS quarantines their fishes for 2 weeks and I only buy them to be sure they are healthy and free of Cryptocaryon irritans. Have you been reading the above? First, 2 weeks is not long enough. Secondly most LFS share water among their fish system tanks so if any new arrivals happened, the clock is effectively reset back to zero.

The truth is out there. . .Trust no one except yourself.
 
Interesting facts about Cryptocaryon irritans Infections

Cryptocaryon irritans (Cryptocaryon) is a ciliated, protozoan parasite which causes a disease known as marine "ich" or marine "white spot" disease in wild and cultured marine fishes at temperatures between 59"“86°F. (Burgess and Matthews 1995; Diggles and Lester 1996a; Colorni and Burgess 1997). This will provide some hopefully interesting answers to some of the questions that have come up over time in the Reef Central Fish Diseases Forum.

Cryptocaryon is known to infect many different fish species, although there appear to be differences in susceptibility (Wilkie and Gordin 1969; Colorni 1985; Colorni and Burgess 1997). I tend to see Tangs, butterfly fish, and angels infected more than most other species of fish. On the other hand mandarins and other fish with a strong slime coating are rarely if ever affected.
Strain differences among different Cryptocaryon isolates from various parts of the world have been identified, and, although many have similar life cycles and salinity tolerances, others have been found to be outside previously described "normal" ranges (Yambot et al. 2003). That is one of several reasons I hesitate to suggest hyposalinity as a treatment option.

Signs of infection, complex life cycle stages, and the explosiveness with which infection and deaths can occur"”often within days in culture situations"”(Colorni and Burgess 1997) are similar in many ways to those seen for the freshwater parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (Floyd and Reed 2009). However, the two are only distantly related, and major differences exist with regard to salinity tolerance and duration of life cycle.
Accurate diagnosis and rapid response and treatment are necessary to reduce losses, which can be devastating.

Signs of Disease

Fish infected with Cryptocaryon will often have small white spots, nodules, or patches on their fins, skin, or gills but visual signs are not a requirement . They may also have ragged fins, cloudy eyes, pale gills, increased mucus production, or changes in skin color, and they may appear thin (Noga 1996; Colorni and Burgess 1997). Because the characteristic white spots might not be obvious in pale-colored fish or may not appear at all in infections with only gill involvement, absence of "white spots" or nodules"”or even parasites"”on the fin or skin does not rule out Cryptocaryon. Behavior is usually a good indicator
Behaviorally, fish may flash (scratch), swim abnormally, hang at the surface or on the bottom, act lethargic, or breathe more rapidly as if in distress (Colorni and Burgess 1997). Within a population, mortalities may increase rapidly over the course of several days. However, the extent of pathology will differ depending upon the strain of parasite, the species of fish, previous exposure to the parasite, and the temperature of the water. While lower temperature raise dissolved oxygen level in the water, it also prolongs the life cycle.

Biology and Life Cycle of Cryptocaryon irritans

This information is summarized in a sticky in this forum. The length of the entire life cycle varies, depending upon a number of factors, including strain of Cryptocaryon, temperature, salinity, and fish host (Colorni 1985; Diggles and Lester 1996a, b, c; Colorni and Burgess 1997; Yambot et al. 2003). Even for a specific strain and fish host, the life cycle may vary by weeks or months (Colorni and Burgess 1997). An average life cycle appears to be 1 to 2 weeks; however, life cycle durations may range from 6 days to 11 weeks, primarily because of the unpredictability of tomont development (Colorni and Burgess 1997; Dickerson 2006; Yambot 2003). I normally encourage a minimum of 9 weeks of a tank being fallow in order to eliminate the parasite; obviously 12 weeks would be better still.
In addition, some characteristics of the different life cycle stages (e.g., size and time required for development) vary depending upon the strain of Cryptocaryon irritans, the salinity and temperature of the water, and the species of fish infected (Diggles and Lester 1996 a, b, c).
Temperatures for optimal growth of most strains of Cryptocaryon appear to be about 73.4"“86°F (Dickerson 2006; Yoshinaga 2001), although active infections at 59°F have been documented (Diggles and Lester 1996). Encysted stages, off the host (tomonts), were also observed to survive for 2"“4 weeks under experimental hypoxic conditions (24% oxygen saturation); these released free-swimming infective stages (theronts) 10"“11 days after excystment (Yoshinaga 2001).

A more recent study demonstrated that two life stages of one strain of Cryptocaryon (trophonts, i.e. the feeding stage during which the parasite can be found on the fish, and tomonts) survived dormant for 4"“5 months at 53.6°F, and, after the water temperature increased to 80.6°F, developed and infected fish (Dan et al. 2009).

The most commonly observed stage is the trophont, or "feeding" stage. The trophont is found on the fish, usually underneath the outer skin layers. Spherical to club- or pear-shaped, with cilia all over its body, the trophont will normally be seen "rolling" or rotating slowly under the epithelium (outer cell layers of the skin or gills) (see figures 3"“6 ). Because the trophont is embedded within the skin, it is relatively protected from any potential treatments. The organism's cytoplasm is more opaque in this phase, which means the lobed macronucleus (and several smaller micronuclei) can be difficult to see in live specimens (Dickerson 2006). Trophonts can range in size from about 48 x 27 µm (~1/20 x 1/40 of a mm) to 452 x 360 µm (~1/2 x 1/3 mm) (1 µm = 1 micron; 1,000 microns = 1 millimeter). The trophont feeds on the body fluids and cells of the fish for about 3"“7 days before leaving the host.
Trophonts will also actively leave fish that have died, but are not immediately infective. They require additional time to develop from protomonts to tomonts, just as they would if leaving a live host.

Once a trophont leaves the fish, it becomes a protomont. During this phase, it loses its cilia, flattens its surfaces, and moves onto a substrate for about 2"“18 hours. After this stage, the organism stops, sticks to the surface, and encysts, whereupon it becomes a tomont. The cyst hardens in about 8"“12 hours (Colorni 1985). Before the cyst forms, the protomont may be susceptible to some treatments for a short period of time. However, once the cyst has formed and hardened around the tomont, it has greater protection against common treatments
Tomonts range in size from 94.5 x 170 µm (~ 1/10 mm x 1/6 mm) to 252 x 441 µm (~1/4 x 1/2 mm). The tomont of one strain of Cryptocaryon was 210 x 763 μm (~1/5 x 3/4 mm). The encysted tomont undergoes many divisions, producing numerous daughter tomites (approximately 100 to 1000, depending upon strain and temperature [Colorni and Burgess 1997]). These tomites are released as theronts, the free-swimming infective stage which is also the stage most susceptible to most salinity or chemical treatments.

The time required for theront development varies. In one study (Colorni and Burgess 1997), theronts emerged from a group of tomonts sometime between 3 and 72 days, with most released from 4 to 8 days after tomont formation. In another study (Diggles and Lester 1996c ), tomite development and theront release occurred, on average, between 5 and 12.1 days after tomont formation, depending upon strain and temperature. There was no correlation between tomont size and theront release.

Yoshinaga and Dickerson (1994) observed, in laboratory studies, that theronts were released only between the hours of 2:00 am and 9:00 am, even in total darkness; some suggest this strategy increases the chance for theronts to find a host, as many fish may be resting or closer to substrate during this time period. This is why I always suggest moving fish during tank transfer quarantine protocols in the morning.

Theronts are oval to pear-shaped and motile; they actively seek fish. The theront is the most exposed, unprotected life stage and therefore the most logical target for treatment. Once the theront locates a host, it invades its skin within 5 minutes (Dickerson 2006). During gill invasion, the parasite becomes enclosed by a thin layer of cells within 20"“30 minutes (Dickerson 2006). Theronts of one strain were 20"“30 x 50"“70 µm (Colorni 1985), but size will vary depending upon strain, host species, and temperature. The theront's infectivity is highest early in its life. By 6"“8 hours after it leaves the cyst, its infectivity is greatly reduced (Burgess 1992; Yoshinaga and Dickerson 1994; Colorni and Burgess 1997; Dan et al. 2009), although a non-infective theront may still be able to move for up to 48 hours.

Immunity

As is seen with other diseases, general fish health and environmental factors including water quality will affect the status of the fish's immune system and may worsen the effects of an infection. If the immune status of the fish is compromised or if environmental factors are less than optimal, Cryptocaryon infection will be even more explosive and harmful. People that advocate boosting the immune system make survival more probable, but this does not rid the tank of Cryptocaryon irritans.
Fish that survive a Cryptocaryon infection develop immunity to that particular strain of Cryptocaryon, which can prevent significant disease reoccurrence for up to 6 months (Burgess 1992; Burgess and Matthews 1995). However, these survivors may act as carriers and provide a reservoir for future outbreaks (Colorni and Burgess 1997).

More targeted development of a vaccine to protect against Cryptocaryon irritans has been ongoing for a number of years (Yambot and Song 2006; Hatanaka 2007; Luo et al. 2007; Bai et al. 2008), and preliminary results are encouraging. However, vaccine development is a lengthy process, and no commercial vaccines are currently available.

Prevention and Control

An understanding of Cryptocaryon's life cycle provides a scientific framework for disease prevention and management. The ultimate goal of a prevention or control program is to break the life cycle of the parasite and stop future infections.
How long each life stage will need for development will depend upon the fish species affected, the fish's immune status, the strain of Cryptocaryon, and environmental factors including temperature and salinity. However, the wide variability and length of the Cryptocaryon life cycle, and in particular, the time required for tomite development and theront release; the presence of protected, "embedded" and encysted stages on and off the fish; and the potentially devastating consequences of an outbreak of this infection necessitate a prolonged quarantine and treatment period. A minimum quarantine period of 3"“6 weeks at 75.2"“80.6°F, is advised, and longer time frames (e.g., 7"“11 weeks) may be necessary.

The water in the affected system must be treated in some way to kill the theronts living in the water column. Likewise, substrate (including, possibly, parts of the fish) may harbor encysted tomonts, and therefore tanks and associated substrate and materials will act as "incubators" of Cryptocaryon. Clean or replace these to help to reduce reinfection.

Use of ultraviolet (UV) sterilization to kill theronts has been suggested, based on research involving Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (freshwater "ich"). The recommended UV dose for Ichthyophthirius theronts is 100,000 µWsec/cm2 (Hoffman 1974). However, UV doses required for Cryptocaryon irritans are anecdotal or extrapolated, and range from 280,000 µWsec/cm2 (industry numbers) to 800,000 µWsec/cm2 (Colorni and Burgess 1997).

Theronts must go through the UV sterilization unit in order to be exposed, so any theronts that are not exposed to UV radiation and remain in the tank or holding areas will be unaffected. Similarly, encysted tomonts within the tank or holding area will not be affected. UV is not a bad thing but it is not a solution to this problem. However if water is shared among tanks usage of UV will isolate other tanks from infection.

Ozonation is a highly effective method for disinfection of water, but is more complicated and may affect water quality, especially with regard to reaction products in salt water. There is limited information on doses required to kill theronts or other life stages (Colorni and Burgess 1997).

Although generally not feasible for large populations, large or complex systems, or weak or debilitated fish, one approach that has been suggested is transfer of affected fish into new, bare bottom tanks every 3 days (Colorni 1987). Tanks are cleaned, disinfected (see Disinfection below), and dried between moves. This approach reduces or prevents tomont development on the substrates, and subsequent reinfection. Depending upon temperature, fish may need to be moved 3"“5 times. For normal aquarium temperature 4 times should be sufficient. This is the option I recommend.

Several chemical treatment options have been used most commonly and effectively against Cryptocaryon in marine aquaria and aquaculture systems. Most treatments target the free-swimming theront. Standard immersion (bath) treatments include copper, considered by many to be the most effective; hyposalinity (reducing salt concentration); and chloroquine. Formalin, though less commonly described in the literature to treat Cryptocaryon, has also been used with varying success.
Copper, in the form of copper sulfate pentahydrate (CuSO4"¢5H20; the "blue" copper), is perhaps the most commonly used chemical against external protistan (protozoal) parasites of marine finfish. When used in marine systems, copper sulfate pentahydrate is considered 25.5% active ingredient (i.e., 25.5% is active, "free copper" (Cu2+).
The recommended dose is 0.15"“0.20 mg/L free copper (Cu2+) (Noga 1996); however, this treatment concentration should be attained gradually, preferably over the course of 2"“3 days, and careful measurement during dosing is necessary. This "breaking in" period will allow the fish time to increase their ability to reduce the toxic effect of copper (de Boeck et al. 2003). Having and using a good copper test kit is important, because copper levels can fluctuate during treatment. Free copper levels should be checked at least twice a day to ensure that copper levels are within the desired range.

Because of the prolonged life cycle of Cryptocaryon, affected systems should be treated for a minimum of 3"“6 weeks (Noga 1996; C. Innis, pers. comm., T. Clauss, pers. comm.). As described above, in some reports at lower temperatures, theronts were not released until 72 days after initial tomont formation, so some situations may require longer treatment time periods.

Chelated copper (copper that has been bound or "complexed" to other substances, such as citrate or EDTA, to increase its stability in water) has also been used, but safety and effectiveness are more variable than with copper sulfate pentahydrate (Noga 1996). If using a commercial product, refer to the manufacturer's directions and/or speak with a company representative for best results.

Hyposalinity refers to exposure of fish to a salt concentration that is lower than that in which they normally live (typical tropical marine systems range between 30"“35 g/L (g/L=ppt)). Lower salinities are less easily tolerated by many common marine tropical species, which prefer a tighter range of salinity (stenohaline). Therefore, for many species, the lower the salinity, the shorter the time period the fish can tolerate. Freshwater or lower salinity dips (duration in minutes) or short or prolonged immersion baths (duration in hours or days) for tolerant fish species are commonly used to kill or reduce the numbers of external parasites on marine species. Since Cryptocaryon is deeply embedded, fresh water dips often do not reach and therefore do not affect the parasite.
However, Cryptocaryon has proven to be more challenging to treat using salinity changes. Because trophonts and tomonts are more protected, longer dips and baths will be required than for many other species of parasites. Exposure to freshwater for up to 18 hours did not seem to affect Cryptocaryon trophonts on the host (Colorni 1985). Prolonged exposure to 15"“16 g/L salinity or less (Cheung et al. 1979; Colorni 1985) appeared to affect some life stages. Tomonts of one strain of Cryptocaryon were effectively killed after 48 hours of exposure to 15 g/L or less (Colorni 1985). Temperature will also determine whether hyposalinity will control the parasite, with temperatures outside the optimal range (23"“30°C) causing greater breakdown of tomonts (Cheung et al. 1979).

More recently, studies have demonstrated different salinity tolerances among strains of Cryptocaryon. Yambot (2003) described one Taiwanese outbreak occurring in sea bream Sparus sarba at a salinity of 5 g/L, and another outbreak in sea perch Lates calcarifer occurring at a salinity of 10 g/L. These two strains were successfully propagated in the laboratory at 7 and 10 g/L, respectively, and are well below previously documented preferred salinities.

One suggested protocol that may have some effectiveness, depending upon temperature and the strain's salinity tolerance, is to maintain water at 15 g/L for 21"“30 days (Noga 1996; Kinsler, pers. comm.). Salinity should be reduced gradually by 5 to 10 g/L per day until 15 g/L is reached.

Chloroquine, a quinine derivative, and other related compounds have been recommended for use against Cryptocaryon and other protozoan parasites including Amyloodinium (Dickerson 2006; Stoskopf 1993; Noga 1996; Roberts et al. 2009; I Berzins, pers. comm.; T. Clauss, pers. comm.). One recommended treatment regimen is 10 mg/L chloroquine diphosphate as a prolonged bath; duration of 2 to 3 weeks or more may be required. Chloroquine appears to be fairly stable. If water changes are necessary, redose in amounts proportional to quantity of water removed.

Formalin has been used with variable success and differing dosage regimens (Hoff 1996; Colorni and Burgess 1997; R. Francis-Floyd and D. Petty pers. comm. 2009). One suggested regimen is concurrent hyposalinity (16"“18 g/L) and 25 mg/L formalin every other day, for 4 weeks (R. Francis-Floyd and D. Petty pers. comm.). Consider species sensitivities and specific system idiosyncrasies, as well as properties of formalin; be aware of these prior to use (Francis-Floyd 1996).

Use of hyposalinity, drugs, or chemicals during quarantine should also further reduce chance of spread. Trophonts on the fish and encysted stages (tomont) off the fish are well-protected against many common treatments. The free-swimming theronts are considered the most susceptible stage, and are the target of most treatments.

However, keep in mind that carriers may also be present in the established (resident) population and thereby infect any new, naïve fish that have been added to that system, even if these new fish were quarantined.

Summary

Cryptocaryon irritans, the causative agent of "marine white spot disease" is an important disease of marine and brackish water finfish, and has been documented in aquacultured, captive display, and wild populations. Common disease signs include white spots or areas of increased mucus, flashing, or respiratory distress; however, other signs may be seen, and fish should be sampled by a fish health specialist to verify presence of the parasite with a microscope. This is infeasible for most aquarists.

A number of factors determine how severe the disease and mortalities will be and the length of the parasite life cycle. These factors include the strain of Cryptocaryon, the temperature and salinity of the water, the species and age of the fish and their general immune status, previous exposure to the parasite, the number of infective parasites present, and the dissolved oxygen concentration of the water. The life cycle can last from 6"“11 weeks, but an average parasite life cycle appears to be 1"“2 weeks. However, because the time required until release of infective theronts after tomont formation varies so widely, prolonged treatment periods (3"“6 weeks) are recommended. Longer treatment time may be necessary.

Treatments recommended here for any given outbreak should provide significant mitigation of disease. Copper sulfate pentahydrate appears to be the most effective treatment to date. Chloroquine and salinity, as well as formalin, have also proven to have some effectiveness. If the Cryptocaryon strain affecting your fish is tolerant of low salinity, however, hyposalinity will not be an effective control.

Quarantine of any new fish for 30"“90 days before introducing them into an established population will provide time for observation, treatment, and reduction of spread. Source water should also be considered a potential reservoir, and therefore should be handled appropriately. In addition, any equipment, tank structures, or other inert materials should be disinfected properly prior to reuse in other systems. Clinically healthy fish that have survived an infection may act as carriers. Similarly, slow developing or dormant tomonts in the environment may act as a reservoir.

 
The Petco close to where I used to live would oftentimes have the s/w section "closed" due to water all over the floor. I don't know if it was a sump that kept overflowing or a leaky tank or what... but this went on for MONTHS (off & on).

I'll never forget my last time visiting the store before we moved. I went in there to get an algae scrub pad. There was water all over the floor (as usual), but this time the lights were also flickering pretty bad (on both the tanks & overhead lights). The icing on the cake was this evil looking goth kid (employee) just standing there right in the middle of the water, with mop in hand and a look of disgust on his face. It was like something right out of a horror flick! :lmao:
 
The Petco here in Corpus Christi is not so bad. I got a few fish from there direct to my DT with no problem.
No QT for fish but never for clams or anemones.
 
But how do you guys dodge Marine Velvet without QT? I've encountered it (in QT) probably at least half dozen times in the past 4-5 years.

I do QT as you know, but regardless have been extraordinarily fortunate apparently because I have literally never had a fish bring in velvet since starting salt water in about 1988. Flukes, check .... internal worms, check .... ich, check .... but no velvet, brook, or uronema. I never buy fish from any big-box; in fact beyond the original CL purchase, all the fish in my current build came from either DD/LA or a single LFS.
 
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