Chili Coral (Alcyonium sp.)
- Thread starter Nick James
- Start date
lobsterotomy
I'd frag it.
I've had one for five months now, and it's doing well. It;s attached upside down to an overhang near the bottom of my tank. Get very little/no light. Heavy turbulent flow. It extends it's polyps only after 7pm, regardless of lights on or off. It's grown a bit with a few small limbs starting to form and one larger one starting to fork.
I don't target feed or specifically feed at night. Probably survives on planktonic matter from refugium (cheato and tons of pods and other life).
The only time it didn't open up was when I didn't have it upside down and detrius collected on it. Overall now it's pretty healthy (As far as I know) and is really nice with the bright red and white polyps.
I don't target feed or specifically feed at night. Probably survives on planktonic matter from refugium (cheato and tons of pods and other life).
The only time it didn't open up was when I didn't have it upside down and detrius collected on it. Overall now it's pretty healthy (As far as I know) and is really nice with the bright red and white polyps.
lobsterotomy:
Can you post tank setup, food, amount and frequency of feeding for the whole tank, size of refugium comparing to the size of the tank?
What salt mix are you using, salinity, alkalinity, how do you lower alkalinity of the newly prepared salt water, temperature, was amount of Ca and Mg increased in new water or dosing?
What flow tank has (tank volume per hour), speed of filtration (tank volume per hour, passing through the sump)?
What filtration do you use: skimmer (not just name of model, please: is it beckett, ETSS downdraft or venturi with needle wheel pump, how many times oversized for the tank), ozone, UV and so on.
Will appreciate input.
As always, will love to see photos of your setup (not just coral).
Can you post tank setup, food, amount and frequency of feeding for the whole tank, size of refugium comparing to the size of the tank?
What salt mix are you using, salinity, alkalinity, how do you lower alkalinity of the newly prepared salt water, temperature, was amount of Ca and Mg increased in new water or dosing?
What flow tank has (tank volume per hour), speed of filtration (tank volume per hour, passing through the sump)?
What filtration do you use: skimmer (not just name of model, please: is it beckett, ETSS downdraft or venturi with needle wheel pump, how many times oversized for the tank), ozone, UV and so on.
Will appreciate input.
As always, will love to see photos of your setup (not just coral).
jastak
New member
Hey guys,
I've had mine for 3 months now and it definitely seems to be a very hardy coral. I've have mine under another rock (sheltered) and it did great for a while with polyps blazing under actinics every night. But it does seem to cycle and go dormant for some unknown reason. It is doing fine with the exception that the polyps aren't coming out. I am running typical compact fluorescents with actinic lighting as well. My salinity is typically a little higher than average, and all other chemicals are normal.
Any help anyone can give me would be great. I've tried other locations in the tank, but it seems he'll come around when he feels like it.
I've had mine for 3 months now and it definitely seems to be a very hardy coral. I've have mine under another rock (sheltered) and it did great for a while with polyps blazing under actinics every night. But it does seem to cycle and go dormant for some unknown reason. It is doing fine with the exception that the polyps aren't coming out. I am running typical compact fluorescents with actinic lighting as well. My salinity is typically a little higher than average, and all other chemicals are normal.
Any help anyone can give me would be great. I've tried other locations in the tank, but it seems he'll come around when he feels like it.
Finsky
New member
Red Chili Coral
Red Chili Coral
Hello:
I just purchased one of these last Sunday and the shop worker had it in his $40 dollar section of corals. I asked him what it was and touched one of the smooth pinky size stalks and it was flexible so he named it "some type of leather coral". I purchased it and put it in the bottom front substrate of my five foot high 120 gallon reef tank with fish tank. I have 140 pounds of live rock. The lighting is two 344 watt power compact lights, half are actinic and half are 7,500/10,000 with 344 watts of actinic on for eight hours and the both lights on six hours. The actinics are on an hour earlier and an hour later than the daylight bulbs to simulate dawn/dusk. Nigt lights come on for 12 hours at night.
The coral perked up each day (with a smooth suface) when the lights came on and shrunk when the lights went out until I added Iodine, Strontium, and Essential Elements on Wednesday which I do weekly. The following morning before the lights came on the cora had sprouted up to twice is size and heighth and was covered with beautiful white polyps.
During the day it partially sprouts up with no polyp extension so far.
I have read they are partially light sensitive and will react to light. One of my Julius Sprung's three volumes, I cannot remeber which, stated some of these have been seen growing in the light on the side of reef slopes.
My question is do they need to have an overhang or will they do well under light at the bottom of a tanks?
Finsky
Red Chili Coral
Hello:
I just purchased one of these last Sunday and the shop worker had it in his $40 dollar section of corals. I asked him what it was and touched one of the smooth pinky size stalks and it was flexible so he named it "some type of leather coral". I purchased it and put it in the bottom front substrate of my five foot high 120 gallon reef tank with fish tank. I have 140 pounds of live rock. The lighting is two 344 watt power compact lights, half are actinic and half are 7,500/10,000 with 344 watts of actinic on for eight hours and the both lights on six hours. The actinics are on an hour earlier and an hour later than the daylight bulbs to simulate dawn/dusk. Nigt lights come on for 12 hours at night.
The coral perked up each day (with a smooth suface) when the lights came on and shrunk when the lights went out until I added Iodine, Strontium, and Essential Elements on Wednesday which I do weekly. The following morning before the lights came on the cora had sprouted up to twice is size and heighth and was covered with beautiful white polyps.
During the day it partially sprouts up with no polyp extension so far.
I have read they are partially light sensitive and will react to light. One of my Julius Sprung's three volumes, I cannot remeber which, stated some of these have been seen growing in the light on the side of reef slopes.
My question is do they need to have an overhang or will they do well under light at the bottom of a tanks?
Finsky
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
mine is unshielded from above and now directly 20" below a 400watt metal halide.
This coral "opens up" at night to feed.
Regarding the dosing of Sr and I: I would strongly recommend not dosing anything you don't test for.
Fin: are you sure that your coral the species being discussed in this thread? It sounds like something else.....
This coral "opens up" at night to feed.
Regarding the dosing of Sr and I: I would strongly recommend not dosing anything you don't test for.
Fin: are you sure that your coral the species being discussed in this thread? It sounds like something else.....
Finsky
New member
http://www.marinecenter.com/corals/coralssoft/chilicactuscoral/
Gary this Web page has the exact species I am discussing.
A Non photosynthetic coral.
Latin Name Nephthyigorgia sp
Common Name Chili Cactus Coral
Also known as Strawberry Coral, Red Chili Coral
Fast Facts The Also Known as the Strawberry Coral, Nephthyigorgia sp are some of the only corals available to the trade in a bright red color. Non photosynthetic, does not require light. Do not place directly under bright lights, place in lower areas of the tank or in caves, out of the direct path of light, preferably in shaded areas. Generally easy to care for, it fares best under medium to high water current, does best with alternating/pulsating/changing water movement. Does best with supplemental feeding with foods such as liquid phytoplankton, but don't over do it. Most species
Does it look like what this thread is about?
Gary this Web page has the exact species I am discussing.
A Non photosynthetic coral.
Latin Name Nephthyigorgia sp
Common Name Chili Cactus Coral
Also known as Strawberry Coral, Red Chili Coral
Fast Facts The Also Known as the Strawberry Coral, Nephthyigorgia sp are some of the only corals available to the trade in a bright red color. Non photosynthetic, does not require light. Do not place directly under bright lights, place in lower areas of the tank or in caves, out of the direct path of light, preferably in shaded areas. Generally easy to care for, it fares best under medium to high water current, does best with alternating/pulsating/changing water movement. Does best with supplemental feeding with foods such as liquid phytoplankton, but don't over do it. Most species
Does it look like what this thread is about?
Finsky
New member
Also, Alcyonium sp. is the latin name for a Colt Coral, not for a Red Chili Coral. I did check with Dr. Fosters & Smith marine biologists i.e. tis coral and I went back to the shop where I purchased it to buy a three pound flat piece of tonga rock which is now the overhang and it is starting to show polyps during the daylight. The shop keeper admitted it was a Red Chili Coral, he was just busy when he sold it to me last Sunday.
:spin1: Does it look like colt coral? :lmao: :
Alcyonium palmatum or Alcyonium acaule
And
Don't take this seriously, it was just for fun
The first corals above seem to be temperate, but it is amazing how different genera look alike, and corals in the the same genus differ.
Alcyonium palmatum or Alcyonium acaule
And
Octocoral Taxonomy Laboratory Manual
Don't take this seriously, it was just for fun
The first corals above seem to be temperate, but it is amazing how different genera look alike, and corals in the the same genus differ.
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
looks like you might have the same coral after all. Congrats. This is one of the few non-photosynthetic corals that might be a good choice for any reefkeeper.
jastak
New member
Hi Finsky,
Since my first post I have discovered that they definitely seem to prefer covered, dark areas. I recently added an additional powerhead (that makes 2) to my 28 gallon bowfront. With the addition of this powerhead my chili has resprouted polyps once again. Water movement seems to be critical. Of course, the additional water movement has now upset other corals that I need to find a new space for. I guess you can't make everyone happy!
Since my first post I have discovered that they definitely seem to prefer covered, dark areas. I recently added an additional powerhead (that makes 2) to my 28 gallon bowfront. With the addition of this powerhead my chili has resprouted polyps once again. Water movement seems to be critical. Of course, the additional water movement has now upset other corals that I need to find a new space for. I guess you can't make everyone happy!
Finsky
New member
Hello jastak:
I think you have the right idea for the Chili Coral from everything I have read it likes medium to high water flow with shaded areas.
My overhang is made of a very light slab of live rock with a few holes in it. I transplanted a blue mushroom from the substrate to cover one hole although I need to cover a couple more.
As far as water flow I probably could use more flow around the Chili although I am going to wait and see how it does when I cover a few more holes in the overhang.
My Chili is located at the bottom left of a 27 inch high tank and a third powerhead might distract from the look of the aquarium. I have managed to accumulate a few extra powerheads at this time which I am not using.
My two Seio pumps are on the top of the live rock about half way up tank pointing between the back glass and live rock.
Time will tell.
I think you have the right idea for the Chili Coral from everything I have read it likes medium to high water flow with shaded areas.
My overhang is made of a very light slab of live rock with a few holes in it. I transplanted a blue mushroom from the substrate to cover one hole although I need to cover a couple more.
As far as water flow I probably could use more flow around the Chili although I am going to wait and see how it does when I cover a few more holes in the overhang.
My Chili is located at the bottom left of a 27 inch high tank and a third powerhead might distract from the look of the aquarium. I have managed to accumulate a few extra powerheads at this time which I am not using.
My two Seio pumps are on the top of the live rock about half way up tank pointing between the back glass and live rock.
Time will tell.
Finsky
New member
Red Chili Coral upside down in cave
Red Chili Coral upside down in cave
Hail reefkeepers:
On Sunday in the middle of my 10% weekly water change I reached down and spent close to an hour arranging my cave in the left side of the tank. I moved the roof so I could get at my Chili Coral which had tipped over onto the substrate.
I finally manged to wedge the base which is a silver dollar size 1/4" thick piece of live rock between two large pieces of live rock with the Chili Coral upside down without using any epoxy or glue which I did not trust to dry in my tank with all the money and care I have invested in fish, anemones, polyps, soft corals, and LPS corals. I then put the roof back on and added mushrooms on top. The following morning the Chili Coral had extended its branches a good 4" from the top base with about 1 1/2" left to reach the bottom substrate. If it extends to the bottom I could scrape off some of the substrate directly under the Chili Coral.
I have yet to see the white polyps extending although the arms are now covered with the tiny bumps from which the polyps will hopefully start protruding.
I wonder whether the white polyps come out while I am sleeping or they will come out during the day later after it rests from the move.
I am just wondering when I will see the snow like white polyps instead of just the tiny pimples covering the arms.
Any thoughts out there?
Red Chili Coral upside down in cave
Hail reefkeepers:
On Sunday in the middle of my 10% weekly water change I reached down and spent close to an hour arranging my cave in the left side of the tank. I moved the roof so I could get at my Chili Coral which had tipped over onto the substrate.
I finally manged to wedge the base which is a silver dollar size 1/4" thick piece of live rock between two large pieces of live rock with the Chili Coral upside down without using any epoxy or glue which I did not trust to dry in my tank with all the money and care I have invested in fish, anemones, polyps, soft corals, and LPS corals. I then put the roof back on and added mushrooms on top. The following morning the Chili Coral had extended its branches a good 4" from the top base with about 1 1/2" left to reach the bottom substrate. If it extends to the bottom I could scrape off some of the substrate directly under the Chili Coral.
I have yet to see the white polyps extending although the arms are now covered with the tiny bumps from which the polyps will hopefully start protruding.
I wonder whether the white polyps come out while I am sleeping or they will come out during the day later after it rests from the move.
I am just wondering when I will see the snow like white polyps instead of just the tiny pimples covering the arms.
Any thoughts out there?
Polyps are actually almost transparent 
.
This is vertical cactus shaped chili coral:
And more common here - finger shaped chili:
This is miniature finger-shaped chili coral. If your coral is already open as one on the left on this photo:
then, if it is in a good shape, it should open to the full extent of polyps within 1 hr.
If it doesn't happen, we both should re-read the techniques of the people for whom chili corals were easy to keep. Some component is missing
On the bright side, even if chili corals spend a lot of time in inactive state, they can be alive for 3+ years, IMHE.
.This is vertical cactus shaped chili coral:
And more common here - finger shaped chili:
This is miniature finger-shaped chili coral. If your coral is already open as one on the left on this photo:
then, if it is in a good shape, it should open to the full extent of polyps within 1 hr.
If it doesn't happen, we both should re-read the techniques of the people for whom chili corals were easy to keep. Some component is missing
On the bright side, even if chili corals spend a lot of time in inactive state, they can be alive for 3+ years, IMHE.
Finsky
New member
Chili Coral Polyps
Chili Coral Polyps
dendro982:
No white polyps since the Thursday after I purchased it.
I just looked at my Chili Coral with a flashlight, it is 6:30 am Pacific Time and it is extended without the white polyps coming out of its pimples (polyp base holes?).
This is funny as I did have white polyps came out the Thursday after the Sunday I bought it and put it in open water right side up. I do feed liquid coral food Mondays and Fridays with Vita-Chem also added on Fridays. I also feed Kent Marine Iodide, Strontium & M., and Essential Elements on Wednesday evening (maybe this brought out the polyps?).
Chili Coral Polyps
dendro982:
No white polyps since the Thursday after I purchased it.
I just looked at my Chili Coral with a flashlight, it is 6:30 am Pacific Time and it is extended without the white polyps coming out of its pimples (polyp base holes?).
This is funny as I did have white polyps came out the Thursday after the Sunday I bought it and put it in open water right side up. I do feed liquid coral food Mondays and Fridays with Vita-Chem also added on Fridays. I also feed Kent Marine Iodide, Strontium & M., and Essential Elements on Wednesday evening (maybe this brought out the polyps?).
Finsky: IMHO, it is unlikely that it was caused by reef additives.
I got impression that chili is more sensitive to what is excreted by microalgae, diodogorgia gorgonian, red cyano, decaying aiptasia or just react on high content of the organics in the water (if skimmer doesn't clean water well after feedings). Looks to me like it requires more clean water, than the rest on non-photosynthetic corals.
All my 4 kinds of chili coral - vertical cactus-, fingers-, miniature fingers- and large tree-shaped - opened at full the same day after bringing them home from the store. Most of them stopped to show polyps weeks later, stayed closed for several months, then opened again. Later that repeated, but it wasn't season related.
Temperate chili corals (Alcyonum sp., that look like the tropical chili corals we are keeping) have a dormancy period, which appearance is quite similar to what I saw with my chilis. Except that for temperate waters chilis it was season related, and all mine were bought in stores, who import exclusively from tropical and subtropical areas.
The last sound idea to try that was given to me - and I continue to use it now - to keep them in turbulent flow. Only moderately strong, not as strong as for dendronephthya and scleronephthya. Rather as for diodogorgia gorgonian.
It could be reflected from the glass, rotating around in the cube shaped tank, or in corner, where unidirectional flow that already started to lose its strength bounces from wall and creates mini twister. Wavemaker is even better.
200gph and 150 gph within few inches were too strong for mine, no matter was it turbulent or not.
Previous good idea - keeping chili in refugium type of the tank didn't help.
And one more thing: in first days I could see the open polyps only in the morning, before the lights were on. As soon as lights were on, the coral retracted polyps within minutes. Later, in dark tank (low ambient light, as in north facing room) chilis were open almost all day long.
Other reefers had different experiences - see this thread and chili thread at Ultimate Reef Azoo forum for details - and I still don't know, was it because they were different species with different requirements, or advanced type of skimmer kept water clean, or they didn't have diodogorgia, nuisance microalgae and cyanobacteria, aiptasia or isopods, bothering this coral.
I got impression that chili is more sensitive to what is excreted by microalgae, diodogorgia gorgonian, red cyano, decaying aiptasia or just react on high content of the organics in the water (if skimmer doesn't clean water well after feedings). Looks to me like it requires more clean water, than the rest on non-photosynthetic corals.
All my 4 kinds of chili coral - vertical cactus-, fingers-, miniature fingers- and large tree-shaped - opened at full the same day after bringing them home from the store. Most of them stopped to show polyps weeks later, stayed closed for several months, then opened again. Later that repeated, but it wasn't season related.
Temperate chili corals (Alcyonum sp., that look like the tropical chili corals we are keeping) have a dormancy period, which appearance is quite similar to what I saw with my chilis. Except that for temperate waters chilis it was season related, and all mine were bought in stores, who import exclusively from tropical and subtropical areas.
The last sound idea to try that was given to me - and I continue to use it now - to keep them in turbulent flow. Only moderately strong, not as strong as for dendronephthya and scleronephthya. Rather as for diodogorgia gorgonian.
It could be reflected from the glass, rotating around in the cube shaped tank, or in corner, where unidirectional flow that already started to lose its strength bounces from wall and creates mini twister. Wavemaker is even better.
200gph and 150 gph within few inches were too strong for mine, no matter was it turbulent or not.
Previous good idea - keeping chili in refugium type of the tank didn't help.
And one more thing: in first days I could see the open polyps only in the morning, before the lights were on. As soon as lights were on, the coral retracted polyps within minutes. Later, in dark tank (low ambient light, as in north facing room) chilis were open almost all day long.
Other reefers had different experiences - see this thread and chili thread at Ultimate Reef Azoo forum for details - and I still don't know, was it because they were different species with different requirements, or advanced type of skimmer kept water clean, or they didn't have diodogorgia, nuisance microalgae and cyanobacteria, aiptasia or isopods, bothering this coral.
Finsky
New member
Red Chili Coral upside down in cave extends polyps
Red Chili Coral upside down in cave extends polyps
Hello folks:
I did my 10% weekly water change at 5:00 pm I looked in the cave with a flashlight and saw the arms extended with white polyps extended like the picture of the fingers above. Yippee, I think I finally have this coral placed in the correct position with the correct parameters.
http://www.marinecenter.com/corals/coralssoft/chilicactuscoral/
Latin Name Nephthyigorgia sp
Common Name Chili Cactus Coral
Also known as Strawberry Coral, Red Chili Coral
Fast Facts The Also Known as the Strawberry Coral, Nephthyigorgia sp are some of the only corals available to the trade in a bright red color. Non photosynthetic, does not require light. Do not place directly under bright lights, place in lower areas of the tank or in caves, out of the direct path of light, preferably in shaded areas. Generally easy to care for, it fares best under medium to high water current, does best with alternating/pulsating/changing water movement. Does best with supplemental feeding with foods such as liquid phytoplankton, but don't over do it. Most species
Red Chili Coral upside down in cave extends polyps
Hello folks:
I did my 10% weekly water change at 5:00 pm I looked in the cave with a flashlight and saw the arms extended with white polyps extended like the picture of the fingers above. Yippee, I think I finally have this coral placed in the correct position with the correct parameters.
http://www.marinecenter.com/corals/coralssoft/chilicactuscoral/
Latin Name Nephthyigorgia sp
Common Name Chili Cactus Coral
Also known as Strawberry Coral, Red Chili Coral
Fast Facts The Also Known as the Strawberry Coral, Nephthyigorgia sp are some of the only corals available to the trade in a bright red color. Non photosynthetic, does not require light. Do not place directly under bright lights, place in lower areas of the tank or in caves, out of the direct path of light, preferably in shaded areas. Generally easy to care for, it fares best under medium to high water current, does best with alternating/pulsating/changing water movement. Does best with supplemental feeding with foods such as liquid phytoplankton, but don't over do it. Most species
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