chadfarmer
Premium Member
MINE is down for the count came home to the crabs eatting it
I will get another one later
I will get another one later
Clams closed up
- Thread starter HOC
- Start date
maxxII
Super Housemonkey!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14622343#post14622343 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by smoothdog
We used to use data loggers / strip charts like that when I worked in a produce house. They are very accurate and tamper proof and will show the temp for the entire duration of the delivery. The only problem is that you have to ship by temperature controlled courier. It doesn't really do any good to use heat / cold packs if the external temp of the package can swing many degrees as it can in the back of a standard delivery truck. Now if you could come up with a cheap temperature regulating container, then you'd have something!
How much would the interior of a foam cooler stuffed with packing peanuts and hot or cold packs be influenced by the exterior temp?
Nick
smoothdog
Active member
It's hard to say at a guess, but reason tells me that the heat packs are there to replace lost heat due to cold temps. I don't recall what the weather was like that day but if it was very cold the night they shipped and then it warmed up 20 deg (like it has been lately) while they were on the truck for delivery for several hours then I could see the temp in the box taking a good upswing. I've seen some people that post in the forums that won't order livestock during these times of the year and wait for the middle of summer or winter when temps tend not to swing wildly for this reason.
That sucks to hear Chad.
Mine are doing OK I guess. The brown/green one is looking pretty good but it is gaping a bit. It does respond well to light stimulation, so I'm hoping it's just a little stress. The blue one on the other hand is looking pretty pinched. Strange because yesterday it looked pretty good. It does not respond as well to light stimulation.
I did a water change and dosed with the metro again tonight.
Question...
How long should I have the light on for? It's on for 6 hours now. Also any suggestions to help with keeping the PH up? I've been using Seachem PH 8.3.
Do I need to be too concerned about Ca and Alk?
Thanks,
Jamie
Mine are doing OK I guess. The brown/green one is looking pretty good but it is gaping a bit. It does respond well to light stimulation, so I'm hoping it's just a little stress. The blue one on the other hand is looking pretty pinched. Strange because yesterday it looked pretty good. It does not respond as well to light stimulation.
I did a water change and dosed with the metro again tonight.
Question...
How long should I have the light on for? It's on for 6 hours now. Also any suggestions to help with keeping the PH up? I've been using Seachem PH 8.3.
Do I need to be too concerned about Ca and Alk?
Thanks,
Jamie
HOC
Premium Member
I have one of the three that shows no more retraction, one barely noticeable, and the last one just a bit on the end. I think I will dip the two showing signs one last time and cross my fingers. I've done one 10 min dip and two days later a 30 min dip. I've also been doing water changes and added quite a bit of carbon.
maxxII
Super Housemonkey!
Tonya's is showing Pm again. I will be setting up the QT and going hypo with a metro treatment.
Jaime,
You can use sodium bicarb as a drip to maintain pH, however you will need to monitor it to keep it where you want it to be. Yes, you need to maintain Ca and Alk. One way to do this is to pull water from your main display and use it for your water changes with the clam QT.
Nick
Nick
Jaime,
You can use sodium bicarb as a drip to maintain pH, however you will need to monitor it to keep it where you want it to be. Yes, you need to maintain Ca and Alk. One way to do this is to pull water from your main display and use it for your water changes with the clam QT.
Nick
Nick
HOC
Premium Member
Barry told me they found what they think causes PM in the water column too, not just on the clams. Not sure using Tank water is a good idea. Makes me wonder though as fresh water dips shouldn't work if it's in the water....similar to Ich on fish.
That gets me thinking. I wonder if the fresh water dips would be more effective if the clams were then put in a new hospital tank with fresh salt water instead of putting them back in the display.
I did this with mine last night. I was up till 2:30. I mounted a small dish in my sump (rim above the water level) to help keep the temp stable and slowly lower to 1.016, let it set for 1 hr and then slowly raised it back to tank level. The clam looked better today. Still not real wide open but he was extened out of is shell all around. During the dip he did close up quite a bit but not completely like he did during the fresh water dip I did on Friday. Hoping the pentration was better since he was more open.
Today my clams appear to be doing slightly better. The brown one is showing no signs of PM and is gaping less then yesterday. The blue one is still pinched but less then yesterday is not gaping much if at all. I'll post pics when I get some time.
I have not lowered the SG since they entered QT. I'm thinking I should. How fast can I lower it to .015?
I have not lowered the SG since they entered QT. I'm thinking I should. How fast can I lower it to .015?
Here is what mine looks like today. This is about 36hr after the the 1hr hypo treatment. Still does not have the extension of the pic from CD but appears better.
Should I do another hypo treatment in the next day or so to try to continue to knock it out or wait and see how he does?
Before FWD
After FWD
After hypo treatment
Should I do another hypo treatment in the next day or so to try to continue to knock it out or wait and see how he does?
Before FWD
After FWD
After hypo treatment
