Classic Turbelles

Big E

Premium Member
Hi Roger,

I'm looking for some specifics on your air cooled turbelles........

--Will they also be controllable with the 7095 as now with the 7094?

--Are there any restrictions as far as on/off time lengths?

--Can they be mounted on an acrylic tank by drilling an access hole & dropping in?

--Do the pumps have any manual or auto output controls?

--What is the inner diameter of the output pipe?

--What's the Watt consuption of the 2002? 4002?

Thanks, Ed
 
You can control them with the 7095 but you need to buy the adpaters seperately- part 7094.40.

Their are no on and off restrictions.

They can be mounted this way, you will want to put rubber feet or cork under the pump to dampen the vibration and prevent the pump from turning.

Outside of a 7091 or 7095 with a socket their are no control options.

The inner diameter of a 2002 is about 3/4" and on the 4002 just shy of an 1"- .97 I believe.

The watt consumption is about 42 and 50W on the US versions, I think the catalogue says 38 and 46 but I have never gotten those readings in my tests. I also have not corrected for the 115V the test is based on so the ratings could be correct, my readings are based on 124V which is pretty much the norm around Austin- 117- 127V depending on load and location from my tests in different buildings, it also varies with time of year.
 
Thanks for the quick response........got a few more

Just to clarify.....With the adapter & the 7095 will I be able to control the output & on/ff function? If yes on the output,how many options would I have?

On mounting.......will I have to fabricate a mount? I would imagine I'd have to control more than just vibration, or would the weight of the pump be enough to hold it from tipping over. Does the 851.420.S holder come with each pump?
 
Giving you some food for thought while you wait for Roger's reply....

I run 4 Turbelle classics on a 7095 controller. Yes you can control output and on/off using the controller. Do a look up on the controller to see all the options you have. There are many and they are the same as using a stream or electronic powerhead.

The pump comes with a vertical mount and you can purchase another piece to allow horizontal pane mounting. If you drop it in to a hole you shouldn't need a special mount but will need to have some vibration dampening and keep the pump from moving sideways a bit. A rubber pad would probalby do the trick. But they won't tip over, particluarly since it'll be locked in place in the hole because of the impellor assemply on the bottom of the pump shaft.
 
Thanks for the info kelhuffman. Which models of classics are you using? I was thinking these would be a great option for having flow from the front corners without the obstructions of a big housing in the water. Its also nice to not have to run return or closed loop pipes across the top edges of the tank.

Tell me more about how you have your streams & classics positioned.........if you don't mind.
 
I run two 2002s and two 2004s on my 120G tank. The 2002s are in the back rear corners and the 2004s in front corners, all pointing diagonally at opposite corners. The streams are in my basement, one on my growout 100G tank and the other on my fuge/sump 150G rubbermaid tank, both running on the 7094 controller that used to run the main tank.

I originally purchased them for precisely the same reason you mentioned, having as little machinery in the tank as possible. This was also pre-stream days (2002.) I never considered the closed loop option at the time but I do think closed loop can be a good option for the front returns if you have the space etc. As Roger will attest, this is OLD technology, but the pumps apparently still sell well enough to warrant keeping them in production. Personally I still love them and I had a stream in the tank for a while but just found it to be too big and intrusive. That said, I might still add one in addition to the classics because my tank is getting really overgrown and the additional flow may be needed. The pumps are not without their drawbacks. Roger will tell you they need bearing replacements every 3-4 years I think. I take each of them apart every 6 months or so to replace some plastic components in the drive shaft ($12 parts) because salt creeps up the inside of the drive shaft and destroys these pieces. They get noisier over time when the salt is doing its damage. Also, since they are air cooled you can hear them. And, depending I guess on the tank, stand, and floor you can also get some resonance from them that you can hear like a hum. This may be particular to my setup on a hardwood floors that are not solid underneath.

None of which bothers me as they're in an enclosed hood. Also, while you may never have to take a stream completely apart, I have to work on my stream's impellors for calcium buildup more often than the classics.

Finally, as Roger mentioned, you need the pump adaptor to run the pump on the controller. You can run more than one pump off of each adaptor, but by doing that you can't have 4 independantly controlled pumps on the 7095 if you only have say two pump adaptors. You need one adaptor for each pump if you want separate control of each pump. So there's additional cost. That said, for my application I'd never need 4 separate controls, just two settings for two pumps running on each adaptor. Hope this helps!
 
Oh, and anticipating your next question..... I run Interval 2 on the 7095 adaptor. This pulses the two left pumps between 40 and 100% every 6 seconds for a total time of 4 minutes while the right side idles at 30%. Then they switch. This interval thing is new to this controller and is awesome. At night they do the same thing but only one side running at 40% while the other idles at 30% and visa versa.
 
Are the original turbelles electronic pumps? I thought they were AC induction motors? Are they actually DC motors with drivers like in the Streams?

That's cool that you can control them, I had no idea.
 
It converts the signal from the multicontroller into a change in the power being delivered to the motor. It plugs into the wall, the pump plugs into it and the multicontroller is connected. It only works with this style of motor though.
 
No, it will not work, all submersible pumps use synchronous motors, the permanent magnet inside rotates in response to the changing polarity of the electromagnetic coil which changes polarity at the HZ cycle, 60Hz for the US. So, 60 times per second the magnet changes from + to - charge, this gives 3600 RPM. This is also the reason European 50Hz pumps don't work in the US. They are built to spin at that one frequency which is provided by the mains power. The 2002 and 4002 are asynchronous and the rotational frequency is not related to the Hz. These motors can be controlled but it is not possible to make a submersible version because the rotor construction is far more complicated.
 
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