Closed Loop or Vortechs?

[ChrisOzment]

I am about to have a 400g (94"L) tank built and can't decide on using a CL system with an OceanMotion 4way and wavy seas on the main sump returns or staying with Vortechs.

The tank will be open on the left pane and front which is why I was contemplating putting 6 Vortechs on the RT wall. I have 4 in my 155 now and like them but they are on 3 different walls.

What do you guys think for a larger display?

Also for the CL, I was going to drill the back wall, where would you suggest if I had a 36-48" external overflow on a 94"L tank?

Almost there, thanks in advance.

Chris

 

[jahorgos]

I vote vortechs. No matter what you do you will end up with powerheads which is why I say vortechs. Vortechs have way more adjustability as far as power or how many and settings..yadda yadda. A closed loop system is something you are stuck with once the tank is setup.

I would save yourself the hassle and not do a closed loop. If you want you could always run your return line over the top and in at the far end. Although this won't be a huge amount of flow since its only return it would be something depending on your design plans.

 

[ChrisOzment]

Yeah, I am leaning towards that since I already have 4 Vortech's now but wanted to hear some other opinions.

If I did run 4 Vortechs on the right wall I could have returns in all 4 corners and and just ball valve down the returns on that right side.

 

[pmrossetti]

Vortechs hands down. Versitility and NO LEAKS.

 

[Lightsluvr]

Why not both?

Why not both?

I had a pair of Vortechs from previous tanks, which I kept for my new build... but I supplemented them with a closed loop on our 96" tank.

I run both systems during the day, and just the Vortechs at night...

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1638966&perpage=25&pagenumber=27

I have the Vortechs configured for closkwise flow, while the closed loop current pushes in opposing direction...

Just another option for you.

LL

P.S. - The Vortechs have no problem pushing water 96" and back...

 

[elijaher]

If your electric bill not a problem maybe both. Vortechs use less electricity.

 

[johnnyroastbeef]

I have a 1200 gph closed loop with 2 vortechs on my 300. Even without the barracuda return pump going, I have quite a bit of flow. I am using the closed loop against the back wall to send water left and right from the center. Each of the vortechs are on the ends of the tank.

If you add a few capfulls of purple up to the tank, you can really see how the flow is moving.

 

[lancepender]

I'm a CL fan.. Why clutter a beautiful tank with power heads and such.. I have a Reeflo HH for return and Two HH on there own CL.

Yes, they use elec. but thats what the cost is for a good looking tank without s*** hanging and dangling all over..

For the amount of flow I have.. I would need to spend alot of money in power heads (3- Tunze 6305 at 738.28 each= 2214.84 or 6- Vortech MP-40W GEN 2 at 419.95 each= 2519.70) and would be spending alot of time cleaning them also.

Just my .02...

 

[justinm0424]

Im an CL fan also, I like the fact I don't have any wires inside of my tank and nothing to hide like with powerheads. Plus cleaning a CL pump is a lot easier than taking out all the powerheads and cleaning.

If i were you i'd keep your vortech's and add a CL with a smaller pump if you wanted. Then you can upgrade if you like the CL over the vortechs. Also ywith the OM 4way and wavyseas you'll have amazing flow.

 

[ChrisOzment]

CL

CL

Great feedback guys. My new tank is now being built so I have a week or so to finalize my decision. 92x35x28 with external 48x6x28 overflow

As of now I am not going with a CL since I already have 4 Vortechs and having 4 top corner and front center returns on an Oceanmotion unit with them should give me nice flow. Sequence 3200 main pump.

The Vortech's will be on the back wall and far RT side that will be hidden so it will be clean and I am not stuck with certain CL positions.

 

[lancepender]

Is there a reason why you are going 28 deep on your overflow??

More room for crap to accumulate.. I always go 12" deep on external overflows. Nice amount of flow/ turbulence.. So, you don't need to pop the stan pipes so often if ever...

This is with 6000 gph going over, 2- 2" drains going down stairs.

 

[ChrisOzment]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15586713#post15586713 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lancepender
Is there a reason why you are going 28 deep on your overflow??

More room for crap to accumulate.. I always go 12" deep on external overflows. Nice amount of flow/ turbulence.. So, you don't need to pop the stan pipes so often if ever...

This is with 6000 gph going over, 2- 2" drains going down stairs.

I like your setup but I won't have much access to the rear of the tank since it will back up to a wall. I wanted to be able to get to the overflow bulkheads from underneath the tank (through the steel stand). In my design, the bulkheads will be level with the bottom of the tank.

 

[ChrisOzment]

I saw a very cool setup the other day where there were 2 main drains in the overflow. 1 had a durso and the other was wide open. There was a gate valve below the open drain and he was able to "tune" the open drain to move the water at the bottom of the overflow and yet silence everything with the single durso.

This was on a 240 with plenty of GPH transfer and it had a 2" emergency open pipe above the overflow water line as well. I am going to try and copy that setup.

 

[lancepender]

This isn't my tank.. Its just a tank that I installed. Its a 180 gal.

My tank is a 240 gal 330 gal system. We are in the process right now, building a 520 gal 700 gal system. It will be our upgrade tank..

 

[murfman]

I have a CL being run by 2 Darts on my 300. Build your manifold 1st (dont glue it) and then drill the holes. You can always add a Vortech to pick up any dead spots and keep it looking clean. I use adjustable eye jet bulkheads. Ohhh I have a Tunze wavebox in there too and get 1 1/2" wave.

 

[SMOOTHIE]

Sweet OZ can't wait for the build. I would count on vortecs since you have an end open to put them and get a wave going. Money now instead of later on power and less leaking plumbing. Especially on such a long tank.

 

[lancepender]

HAHA, I really haven't yet understood where you all are getting this leaky plumbing idea from??

If you guys just take your time, prime and glue both ends, hold for a few seconds, Take your time!! You don't get leaks..

I would defiantly decide before you set it up.. Its a lot cheaper to do a CL while its new, clean, and EMPTY... To decided later will get expensive also, drain the tank, your in a hurry to get the holes drilled, prime and glue, and will mess up on cutting.. That's not including all new makeup water, salt, and dealing with the stress of your livestock and rocks..

or, you could wait and go over the top.. but then you have stuff hanging and it wont look the same.. The flow will be a little off, and over time you will be just wasting all that money in plumbing, time and getting the "I told you to just to wait, and just drain the tank" from your better half..

Been there done that... very expensive, and the worst of it, you have her over your back telling you, "If you just listened to me" haha

 

[SMOOTHIE]

Lance- where did you get those big screens from for the overflow in the pic?

 

[wetWolger]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15587634#post15587634 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChrisOzment
I like your setup but I won't have much access to the rear of the tank since it will back up to a wall.

This is something I would just never do with a large tank...you have no way to reach the bottom back of the tank from the front (at least in my tank). Sometimes being able to barely squeeze in behind the tank to reach things is so worth it. Not to mention plumbing task/etc being easier.

 

[mgers21]

I went all vortechs with my 300g build. First I'm scared to death of drilling it, second no heat added. Plus if you can add/remove as many as you like if your coral preferences change without having to plug holes.