Closed Loop or Vortechs?
- Thread starter ChrisOzment
- Start date
leslie hempel
Member
in at the same crossroads although i only have a 500lt tank, my logic says that you already own some vortech's so from a pump placement perspective if you have one you may as well have a few, on the CLS side what are you aiming to achieve with this? im wanting to push dirt from below the rockwork but have decided to use my return for this.. so no real need for CLS anymore....
vortechs are great they reall look neat and perform well for the money spent they are also basically a once off buy wheras each pump bought for CLs is specific to the task..
vortechs are great they reall look neat and perform well for the money spent they are also basically a once off buy wheras each pump bought for CLs is specific to the task..
Reef Happy
New member
This is an interesting thread, one thing I have not heard mentioned is the noise factor of the vortech's. I have tried the vortechs before and found them to be to loud on ramping up, so I removed it. I was very impressed with the under tone current and flow. I would vote for the vortechs however noise was a problem for me. I would prefer to have closed loop. and continue running tunze 6100 which are dead silent.
lancepender
Clams and More Clams
You are talking about the 2" screens in the overflow and 1 1/2" screens on the back wall..
You can get them here,
Aquatic Eco- Systems
Marine Depot
Flex PVC.com
Hope all of this helps..
lancepender
Clams and More Clams
There is no reason to be scared of drilling Acrylic. I have drilled 1/4 to 2 1/2" thick.. The thicker it is.. I have found that its easier. Just take a hole saw and have fun.. It's nothing like drilling glass.. That scares me..hahaha
As far as heat.. I don't really agree with the heat added idea.. The pumps are out side the water, and the valve chamber or pump housing doesn't make heat. Its the actual motor that makes the heat. If you can put the pump out side a stand. Your golden...
I never liked pumps in the water ( Submersibles, power heads, ect.) because if they get dirty, they draw more electricity (and yes like any other pump), but being in the water makes them get dirty more often. That makes these pumps/power heads work harder in return make more heat. Besides, if the pumps/power heads decides to short out.. Stray voltage kills a lot and fast... Besides it hurts... not fun..
ChrisOzment
Premium Member
Since I am going with an island aquascaping with minimal rock touching the back wall I am going with 2-4 Vortechs on the far right side of the tank. The right side will be in the corner of the room with black vinyl (along with black back) so you won't see the wetsides very much at all.
I will then put a Vortech in between each section of LR like I have now i my display. When coraline grows on the wetsides and the back glass, they really blend in nicely.
Since it's just magnets on the wetside, there is virtually no heat transfer from the Vortechs
I had a loud Vortech before, upgraded the wetside to better parts and now it's very quiet.
You just can't beat the undertow and random programs of the Vortechs compare to the CL.
Also I felt like with the CL I was forcing myself to a specific aquascaping vs Vortechs if I change my mind, I can ust move the pumps.
With 4-5 returns from the top (maybe with wavysea units or on an OceanMotion unit) and 4-6 Vortechs, flow should not be a problem.
I will then put a Vortech in between each section of LR like I have now i my display. When coraline grows on the wetsides and the back glass, they really blend in nicely.
Since it's just magnets on the wetside, there is virtually no heat transfer from the Vortechs
I had a loud Vortech before, upgraded the wetside to better parts and now it's very quiet.
You just can't beat the undertow and random programs of the Vortechs compare to the CL.
Also I felt like with the CL I was forcing myself to a specific aquascaping vs Vortechs if I change my mind, I can ust move the pumps.
With 4-5 returns from the top (maybe with wavysea units or on an OceanMotion unit) and 4-6 Vortechs, flow should not be a problem.
ChrisOzment
Premium Member
Oh, and the Eurobraced 92x35x28 (3/4") starphire tank with 48x6x28 external overflow will be here in about 3 weeks!
lancepender
Clams and More Clams
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15614235#post15614235 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChrisOzment
Oh, and the Eurobraced 92x35x28 (3/4") starphire tank with 48x6x28 external overflow will be here in about 3 weeks!
Woo Hooo!! Nice tank..
Ya our 520 stand is getting built right now.. 96" x 48" x 24" w/ 90" x 6" x 12" tall external overflow.
tangtang clown
New member
I'm tagging right along, I am trying to decide on where to drill my intake and return CL holes, and what pump to use. I figure if I use 2 intake 1.5" bulkheads with screens, and 3 or 4 (.75") reutrns I should be alright. I need to see pics before I make my final decision, but I am leaning toward a CL over $500 MP40s.
ChrisOzment
Premium Member
I have had 4 Vortech's on my 155 display for a year and they have at times been running at 100%. I run Reeft Crest and Lagoon mode so the pumps pulling force varies constantly.
Never had an issue with a stuck fish and I have small anthias, mandarin, etc.
ChrisOzment
Premium Member
From what I hear, you need to be careful with small returns on a closed loop. It puts out a constant small strong focused stream versus broad flow pattern. The CL experts can comment with more accurate detail.
lancepender
Clams and More Clams
Plus, it will kill your gph and head pressure.. The way I do CL's, is for every 2 intakes (11/2" - 2"), 4 exits no smaller then 1". I prefer to keep the same size through out the system. 11/2" in 11/2" out, 2" in 2" out. Hope this helps. Lance
tangtang clown
New member
Damn, I just ordered 3/4" bulkheads and 3/4" to1/2" wye loc-line reducers. Good thing is that I haven't drilled my tank yet. I was told to use 1.25" return plumbing and smaller bulkheads to increase water movement.
lancepender
Clams and More Clams
What pump are you going to use?? What size tank? What type of turnover do you want???
tangtang clown
New member
I am setting up a 125 72" . I am thinking about using a MAG 12 for my return, and maybe getting a Iwaki for the CL. I want to run a manifold to the fuge, and possibly a reactor or two in the future.
I haven't drilled the CL holes yet.
I haven't drilled the CL holes yet.
lancepender
Clams and More Clams
What size Iwaki?? For less electricity per month and upfront cost of the pump and flow. You can do a lot better then those pumps. Just my .02 cents..
Depending on how much turn over you want, and what you are going to house (Like sps, lps, soft, ect.). I would run any of the Dart Golds, or even a Snapper Gold, and if its to much flow just valve it back...
Snapper Gold, 2600 gph at 97w
Dart Gold, 3800 gph at 132w
Supper Dart Gold, 4300 gph at 165w
Goby Gold, 3400 gph at 198
Bigger pumps.. But still better then the Mag drives..
Barracuda Gold, 4680 gph at 237w
Hammerhead Gold, 5555 gph at 272w
You compare these to an Iwaki, Blueline, Pan World.. There all the same.
20 - 480 gph at 45w
30 - 590 gph at 90w
30X - 1100 gph at 90w
40 - 790 gph at 120w
40X - 1270 gph at 130w
55 - 1100 gph at 180w
70 - 1750 gph at 290w
100 - 1900 gph at 390w
ChrisOzment
Premium Member
Mags are big time heaters as well. I mix water in a 100g container and my mag 18 brings the water to 80 in 24 hours.
