Complete DIY Custom 144x15x15
- Thread starter calvin415
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calvin415
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Well it took me a lot longer to drill the tank than I expected but it's done! All 12 holes are finally drilled. 9 (5 drains 4 returns) in the tank for the closed loop, and 3 in the overflow (2 drains 1 return).
Because the stand was already built up before the leveling hiccup, the top is rather thick... LOL!
1/2" OSB on bottom, 1/2" drywall, spray foam to level the tank, 3/4" oak ply, 1/2" foam, 1/2" acrylic. Again, each hole took a while...
Because the stand was already built up before the leveling hiccup, the top is rather thick... LOL!
1/2" OSB on bottom, 1/2" drywall, spray foam to level the tank, 3/4" oak ply, 1/2" foam, 1/2" acrylic. Again, each hole took a while...
redtop03
moved slow
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13538438#post13538438 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calvin415
Well it took me a lot longer to drill the tank than I expected but it's done! All 12 holes are finally drilled. 9 (5 drains 4 returns) in the tank for the closed loop, and 3 in the overflow (2 drains 1 return).
1/2" OSB on bottom, 1/2" drywall, spray foam to level the tank, 3/4" oak ply, 1/2" foam, 1/2" acrylic. Again, each hole took a while...
I'm thinking you might need to add a few more layers to the stand LOLjavascript:smilie(':lolspin:')
melev
Well-known member
With a little frosting, those would make nice littel faux cakes. 
I don't know how I lost my subscription to this thread, but it looks like I rejoined just in time to see more action.
Great stairs man! Way back when I was talking about particle board, I didn't realize those were going to be completely hidden by real wood. I've seen some shoddy construction in the past, and couldn't believe particle board would ever be signed off upon. Now I get it finally. :hammer:
Did you do the handrails yourself? They look great. I never liked building the staircase handrails, but once it was done, and if it was nice and solid, I loved the final product.
So I'm thinking perhaps you could remodel a bathroom or something, documenting it in this thread for a while since you've got to earn more funds to finish the tank... :lol:
I don't know how I lost my subscription to this thread, but it looks like I rejoined just in time to see more action.
Great stairs man! Way back when I was talking about particle board, I didn't realize those were going to be completely hidden by real wood. I've seen some shoddy construction in the past, and couldn't believe particle board would ever be signed off upon. Now I get it finally. :hammer:
Did you do the handrails yourself? They look great. I never liked building the staircase handrails, but once it was done, and if it was nice and solid, I loved the final product.
So I'm thinking perhaps you could remodel a bathroom or something, documenting it in this thread for a while since you've got to earn more funds to finish the tank... :lol:
calvin415
New member
LOL! Thanks Marc, I had a family friend help out on the banister. Would cost too much to screw that up. After finally getting my basement done, I'm pretty burned on manual labor. 
I enjoy helping people out, but when I set a price to it, suddenly it's completely on me and no one wants to help. 
Think I'll stick to tanks/sumps/reactors for now.
I just finished running the CL drain and return lines, all I need to do is get some flex tubing to connect it all together and try to tighten some bulkheads... Still have to build my sumps, it's supposed to be nice and warm tomorrow so hopefully I can get going on that.
After finally getting my basement done, I'm pretty burned on manual labor. I enjoy helping people out, but when I set a price to it, suddenly it's completely on me and no one wants to help. Think I'll stick to tanks/sumps/reactors for now. I just finished running the CL drain and return lines, all I need to do is get some flex tubing to connect it all together and try to tighten some bulkheads... Still have to build my sumps, it's supposed to be nice and warm tomorrow so hopefully I can get going on that.
calvin415
New member
Well I'm 99% done with the closed loop, just have to get some 1" tubing to connect it all...
I thought I cut these holes large enough to tighten the bulkheads but my channel locks aren't long enough to reach up to tighten them. I ended up lifting the entire tank 1" to slide some locks under the tank to tighten the bulkheads nut (yes and lowered it back down)... 
Oh well.
Tomorrow is supposed to be nice and I hope to get some outdoor time to finish working on my cabinet doors, and sump work. The catch is we have our 18wk ultrasound appointment in the morning (hopefully we'll know the sex of our next child tomorrow) and I'm sure we'll end up on the phone with family for a lot of the day.
Updated pics tomorrow... sorry.
I thought I cut these holes large enough to tighten the bulkheads but my channel locks aren't long enough to reach up to tighten them.
I ended up lifting the entire tank 1" to slide some locks under the tank to tighten the bulkheads nut (yes and lowered it back down)... Oh well. Tomorrow is supposed to be nice and I hope to get some outdoor time to finish working on my cabinet doors, and sump work. The catch is we have our 18wk ultrasound appointment in the morning (hopefully we'll know the sex of our next child tomorrow) and I'm sure we'll end up on the phone with family for a lot of the day.
Updated pics tomorrow... sorry.
Congrats and all the best to Mom as well 
calvin415
New member
Here's the progress I've made on the tank... Sump pieces are all cut, 1 sump is assembled (just have to attach the bottom) and the second one is almost completely assembled, should have it done tonight. 3 of the 6 doors have been painted and just need a final sanding, the other 3 have been primed and should be painted tomorrow.
Here's some sump shots:
The T's will have a strainer on each end (5 T's 10 strainers) and 4 returns which will be split into 2 loclines (8 heads total).
Here's the Dart plumbed up:
and the feed pipes, the bottom one is the drain line (2") w/ 5 1" bushings and nips, the upper one is the return line (1.5") w/ 4 1" bushins and nips.
Here' my dilemma today, I think I'm going to have to buy lots more tubing and connect them to nips further away to keep the kinks out of the hose. I found some ultra soft tubing, but the largest they make is 1/2 and I need 1" ID... If anyone has some better suggestion, please let me know!!!
And for a test fit, here the skimmer in the first sump under the tank, zone 1 will be for skimming, zone 2 will be for acclimating new fish or to seperate existing fish... This will connect to Sump 2 with a 2" pipe with strainer to keep fish from swimming through to zone 3 which will be fuge, and finally zone 4 which will be for return and ATO float valve.
Here's some sump shots:
The T's will have a strainer on each end (5 T's 10 strainers) and 4 returns which will be split into 2 loclines (8 heads total).
Here's the Dart plumbed up:
and the feed pipes, the bottom one is the drain line (2") w/ 5 1" bushings and nips, the upper one is the return line (1.5") w/ 4 1" bushins and nips.
Here' my dilemma today, I think I'm going to have to buy lots more tubing and connect them to nips further away to keep the kinks out of the hose.
I found some ultra soft tubing, but the largest they make is 1/2 and I need 1" ID... If anyone has some better suggestion, please let me know!!!
And for a test fit, here the skimmer in the first sump under the tank, zone 1 will be for skimming, zone 2 will be for acclimating new fish or to seperate existing fish... This will connect to Sump 2 with a 2" pipe with strainer to keep fish from swimming through to zone 3 which will be fuge, and finally zone 4 which will be for return and ATO float valve.
melev
Well-known member
More progress - you are sooo spoiling us.
Btw, you were totally right about #3. I've been using it for the past few weeks, and am so much happier with my seams. I can't believe how long I've been using #4 with less than stellar results.
You can purchase 1" flexible tubing online. It would have been nicer if each nipple pointed out at 90 degrees so you had a simple bend from the plumbing to the bulkhead.
Btw, you were totally right about #3. I've been using it for the past few weeks, and am so much happier with my seams. I can't believe how long I've been using #4 with less than stellar results.
You can purchase 1" flexible tubing online. It would have been nicer if each nipple pointed out at 90 degrees so you had a simple bend from the plumbing to the bulkhead.
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melev
Well-known member
I would suggest Savko.com or AquaticEco.com
And here's one more link that may carry it. The link will take you to SpaFlex tubing though.
http://www.flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=Flex_PVC_By_The_Foot
Keep in mind, you can put the tubing in the oven for five minutes at 200F to help make it more pliable.
ls7corvete
New member
http://www.mcmaster.com/
search for masterkleer. 1" ID tubbing has a 3" bend radius, only 2.46$/foot.
Learned that from watercooling computers, not much room inside a case to make curves.
search for masterkleer. 1" ID tubbing has a 3" bend radius, only 2.46$/foot.
Learned that from watercooling computers, not much room inside a case to make curves.
Looking really good, and as always, can't wait for more progress! One thing I wanted to mention. In this picture, you have what looks like an electrical wire (yellow) going into the top of an outlet box. I would suggest you remove the outlet box and flip it around so the wire goes into the bottom of the box. This will prevent water from splashing onto the wire and having a nice direct path to the 110V outlet that's inside the blue box. Just a thought.
-Scott
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