controlling cyano and a vortech tip

[Reef Bass]

I've learned an important lesson recently about controlling cyano. Back around the time of the BAR swap, I had a raging case of cyano in my lps tank. I could peel the layer off on my sandbed by siphon in the afternoon and it would grow back by the next morning. Unbelievable.

I've made two changes which have greatly reduced my cyano woes. It's not gone, but I don't get wall to wall carpeting growing back over night any more.

I've been tending water filled glass boxes for 40 years, most of those fresh water. Part of my success (defined by successful breeding and fry rearing) with fresh water tanks was due to "vacuuming" the gravel frequently, removing the accumulated detritus. This improved water quality and subsequently fish health. I had not been applying this simple technique to my reef tanks. The sandbeds in my tanks are only one and two years old, so not that ancient or as filled with gunk as they could be.

I dug out my old fresh water Python gravel vac (basically a 2 or 3" diameter clear pipe with 3/4" vinyl tubing at the end leading to a bucket) and hit the lps tank sandbed. 5 gallons fills pretty quick but I was able to do a third of sandbed. Very little sand was removed but boy there was some "very high tds, off color water", shall I say , in the bucket.

The happy moment for me though was the next morning, when the cyano carpet had not grown back where I had vacuumed. I repeated the process by thirds over a couple days and it was like a tranformation in the tank. Clearly the cyano had been at least partially enabled / fueled by stuff in the sandbed. I am not cyano free, but now it takes like a week for it to accumulate instead of overnight.

The advantage I see in vacuuming / siphoning over simply "stirring up" is that vacuuming actually removes the stuff that was in the sandbed from the tank entirely. Stirring it up just redistributes it.

The other minor change I made was with my vortech. In case you weren't aware, one portion (roughly 45 degrees of the 360 degree circular form) of the plastic basket around the impeller is not as vented / slotted. The impact of the minor difference is that there is a stronger flow in that direction. I had that less vented area pointed towards the bottom of the tank, which caused a larger scour area in the sand. By directing the more solid area toward the side of the tank, there has been a significant increase in flow in the tank.

I am 3/4 of the way through the process of vacuuming my sps tank sandbed now and just like my lps tank, it's very apparent where I've vacuumed and where I haven't by the presence or absence of cyano.

The change I'll probably make to my long term maintenance is that when I go to remove water for a water change, a siginficant portion of the water I remove will be through vacuuming of the sandbeds.

 

[northbay-reefer]

Good job Ken, I am glad to see you and your tanks coming back to the way they were. It takes a lot of energy and determination. But the reward is great. We are pulling for you.

the sand bed is a very neglected part of the tank, the other is the sump, and then fuge and then the frag tank. These are the area that need to be clean out on a regular basis. Also I think a little of the old sand need to be replaced every year to help with buffering PH.

I do my water change biweekly by just draining the water out and replace with new water but after about 2 months I will do a major water change and that is when I vacuum the sand beds.

On a side note, I am in the process of making a DIY filter for the sump so when it's time to clean the sump, I mount this filter at the main pump and use a small powerhead to stir up the sediments hopefully everything will get sucked into this sock. The theory is there but I am not sure if it will works I think it's worth a try.

 

[thysrof]

Ken,

I also gravel vac my sand,although I've never done so to the sump. I will definately clean the sump. I wonder if that is effecting some of my SPS

 

[Reef Bass]

When I rebaffled my sump, it was clean and empty before I siliconed in the baffles.

Tom, I like the filter sock adaptation to the return pump return idea so that debris from the sump can be captured and water recycled back into the sump.

 

[northbay-reefer]

Bob, if you try doing a weekly 5-10% water change for about 1-2 months, you will see result. Make sure your make up water has the same parameter as your tank. While doing the water change also clean your skimmer, filter sock, sump and vacuum part of your gravel every week, you will see your sps color up. Once you see result, you can go back to biweekly. During this time if you are using a calcium reactor then don't change anything on it, if you dose then make sure to test and make adjustments as needed.

Ken when it's done I'll show picture, the idea is in my head and it's working in my head but in practice I am not sure LOL

 

[northbay-reefer]

Ken, this is what I was thinking about the sump filter. I also show the float valve and the water line. Next I'll draw up the filter box

 

[Reef Bass]

Nice diagram. I see now how the "prefilter" would work, going on the intake to your return. At first I was thinking that you were planning on "T-ing" off your return pump line and sending the water back through your usual incoming tank return filter sock(s). This is "cleaner" (pun intenteded!).

 

[Bamm Bamm]

good tip on the mp40 Im gonna try that tommorow