Hello. New to reef central and first post. First off, I'm in the planning stages of setting up a 220 fowlr. This will be my first saltwater tank. I've done a ton of research on required equipment and setting up. But I've been reading about evaporation. I new there would be some. But it seems there will be 4-5 gallons a day. 35 a week! That is too much for me. I really don't like humidity in my house. I thought of running a dehumidifier. But I don't really want the extra equipment. The tank will be in the open living room in the front of my house. So I can't shut it in a room. I thought about downgrading the size. But I'm really fascinated with the large angels. My thoughts are on covering the tank. I know full coverage isn't recommended. But I thought about fabricating a top out of acrylic or glass. And drilling holes in it to help gas exchange but slow down evaporation. Again, the problem is the humidity in the house. Not the water loss. I plan on an ATO. Thanks alot. Any advice offered is appreciated.
controlling evaporation
- Thread starter Jeff G
- Start date
schristi69
Master of Space and Time
No top also contributes to heat exchange. Put a top on it and you will have to find a way to get ride of the heat from lights, pumps, etc. Gas exchange can be accomplished in your overflow, skimmer, sump, etc. Turbulent water exchanges gases better than surface water. Humidity is all part of the hobby
I don't think you will have that much evaporation. There are a lot of variables due to lighting and equipment, but generally plan on about one gallon a day per 100 gallons of water in your system, so I would think you would be closer to the 2-3 gallons a day mark. Limiting the evaporation is not a good idea for the long term health of your aquarium. You would be better off adding a dehumidifier IMHO. If you do go with a cover, you will almost certainly need a chiller to compensate for the heat trapped by the cover. A protein skimmer (if you planned on one) will help maintain air/gas exchange, but an open tank is recommended.
Deinonych
New member
+1
I have a 105gal and evap about a gallon a day (about double that in winter, but that's fine with me).
Reef Frog
New member
A few points:
Evaporation & any resulting humidity changes is more a function of tank surface area than total volume.
The temperature & humidity levels of the room will be the main drivers of how much water actually evaporates.
The total air volume of your room, combined with the air exchange with other rooms and or with the air in the outside environment are important factors in the room's eventual humidity level.
So it's a moving target trying to figure out what humidity levels will eventually be reached with a tank that size. Since most modern houses have central heating operating half the year and AC running in the summer, a few gallons of water evaporation per day won't affect room humidity much, in most cases. However, damp basements with high baseline humidity or a room with higher humidity levels because of open windows with high outside humidity might be exceptions.
Modern homes with capable HVAC systems often yield very low humidity levels equivalent to a desert. A few gallons of evap per day might not be noticed. It may even improve the environment a little. A 30'x20'x10' room is 6,000 square feet of air not including air exchange with other adjacent rooms. If your baseline humidity is low, it's going to take a lot more water than ~3 gallons to turn it into a swamp.
Good luck & welcome to RC!
Evaporation & any resulting humidity changes is more a function of tank surface area than total volume.
The temperature & humidity levels of the room will be the main drivers of how much water actually evaporates.
The total air volume of your room, combined with the air exchange with other rooms and or with the air in the outside environment are important factors in the room's eventual humidity level.
So it's a moving target trying to figure out what humidity levels will eventually be reached with a tank that size. Since most modern houses have central heating operating half the year and AC running in the summer, a few gallons of water evaporation per day won't affect room humidity much, in most cases. However, damp basements with high baseline humidity or a room with higher humidity levels because of open windows with high outside humidity might be exceptions.
Modern homes with capable HVAC systems often yield very low humidity levels equivalent to a desert. A few gallons of evap per day might not be noticed. It may even improve the environment a little. A 30'x20'x10' room is 6,000 square feet of air not including air exchange with other adjacent rooms. If your baseline humidity is low, it's going to take a lot more water than ~3 gallons to turn it into a swamp.
Good luck & welcome to RC!
Thanks for getting back with me guys. I was hoping that much evap was too high. I'm just going off of what some other things I've read. I was wondering about it holding too much heat. I figured to use led lighting so that should help. If I did go with a dehumidifier. How much a day do you guys run them. And if evap was 2 gallons a day. Do you guys notice it. I'd rather the tank not cause dampness all in the house.
gone fishin
New member
My fish room is in a dry partially finished basement. I have dehumidifier that has a built in controller. I set the humidity that I want and it kicks on and off. I really do not hear it any more but, I would say a few hours a day depending on if the windows are open or not. Also, runs more in the winter time.
Tankerblade
New member
I'm curious, granted the thought of the evap and humidity would be low in a room to begin with, on the thoughts of installing duct work, similar to a dryer vent, from an enclosed hood to either the attic or vent. Install a fan for cooling if needed but otherwise leave it open.
Vinny Kreyling
Premium Member
One thing I will recommend: If you have Central Air --
Run the fan on the ac unit year round.
Had to replace all the ducting hoses & both ends of the fan unit because of water & mold.
Run the fan on the ac unit year round.
Had to replace all the ducting hoses & both ends of the fan unit because of water & mold.
YOu might cover part of the tank with glass. That would slow it down a bit. You want some evap, to drive things like kalk. But I use a full wooden canopy with a partial glass cover on my tank (36 inch wedge bowfront with about a 30" depth) so that my exposed water is only under the 30"x8" light kit, and have no serious issues. Fans are your friend: mount a fan kit (see aquarium fans) where your lights are, one, mount another in your sump, and use them to help control and stabilize temperature. Likewise, get a skimmer rated for a larger tank, and rely on that froth of bubbles to help oxygenate your water. A powerhead (submerged fan) can also help agitate the water in a deep tank, and improve gas exchange. My sump, in the basement, is completely open: but the greater amount of oxygen is provided by a needle-jet type skimmer and a big ball of cheato moss lit 24-7
