Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)

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Mr. Wilson,

I follow this thread religiously and your incredible knowlage and the whole teams commitement to best practices has been the greatest influence on me to build a larger system. :spin1: I do read a few other threads and one (Diablo's 2300 g. cylinder) has been dicussing the merits and possible liabilities of Egg crate material. One contributor has spoken of personal experience and studies that show that there is some leaching from eggcrate into the water after extended periods of time. I am in the process of building a rather large Duplex refugium / benthic system for my new build and was planning on using egg crate extensively in the system. Have you had any experience with this material that would lead you to think it has any negative impact on a reef system?

Thank you so much for all the knowledge you share! :wavehand:
 
Peter, Shawn, Chingchai, and community,

It’s been a real pleasure catching up on this thread over the past week. I’ve been around the board for a while, but a couple tankless years have left me out of the loop. Over the break I started getting the itch again and figured I’d check in to see what was new (bubble plates! LEDs! Oh my!). But perhaps most significant and rewarding have been this and Chingchai’s build threads.

I’ve been astounded by the generosity, diligence, and grace with which these two extraordinary projects have been shared with the reefkeeping community. In memories of my (none too distant!) formative reefing years, aquaria such as these existed only in the pages of Delbeek and Sprung, veiled in mystique and so, so remote from the beginning aquarist. I really think that projects of such magnitude have a lot of useful lessons for everyone in the hobby, not least of which is the value of planning, foresight, and dedication. Peter, I applaud your efforts to establish “best practices” for the hobby, including, I think, the maintenance of such civility and honesty in online discussions...

I confess that after the first few pages of the thread I had some concern for the outcome of this enormous project. I have in the past been involved with the maintenance of an extremely large reef aquarium that suffered from some oversights in initial design, and these dramatically complicated the already enormous challenge of keeping it in good shape. (It heartens me that you won’t have to snorkel to place new corals.) But it was great to have those fears allayed over the course of 240 pages. It sounds like an amazing team you’ve got going!


Best luck and happy reefing,
-Jon
 
Mr. Wilson,

I follow this thread religiously and your incredible knowlage and the whole teams commitement to best practices has been the greatest influence on me to build a larger system. :spin1: I do read a few other threads and one (Diablo's 2300 g. cylinder) has been dicussing the merits and possible liabilities of Egg crate material. One contributor has spoken of personal experience and studies that show that there is some leaching from eggcrate into the water after extended periods of time. I am in the process of building a rather large Duplex refugium / benthic system for my new build and was planning on using egg crate extensively in the system. Have you had any experience with this material that would lead you to think it has any negative impact on a reef system?

Thank you so much for all the knowledge you share! :wavehand:

Standard eggcrate is made of polystyrene and I have heard some theories that it may leach something into the water that causes nuisance algae, but nothing has been substantiated. The quick fix is to use acrylic eggcrate, at about double the cost.
 
Sareefkeeping.com, Prostaff.

Zaheda Thanks. Do you have any more specific information, maybe a page link, thread name etc?? I tried to do a search using your username but no bites. I am assuming you are using a different name on that site. Thanks. I am very interested in reading about this
 
Now, there are a few ideas from recent posts that have been intriguing me. My reefing skills are a bit rusty from disuse since I've spent the last few years in the dusty halls of academia, but maybe I can say something interesting from that perspective. :)

First is the discussion of "˜Total Organic Carbon' and its relation to skimmers. Organic carbon in and of itself isn't strictly a problem for our aquaria, but rather the reduced nitrogen and phosphorous that go along with it. The organisms whose growth we're trying to inhibit generally fix their own organic carbon as quickly as they can acquire these limiting elements. Of course we all know this already.

The perspective I'd like to consider is that not all organic carbon is created equally. In the ocean, for instance, there are tremendous pools of really intransigent carbon compounds that get broken down extremely slowly or not at all. These will contribute to TOC but not to algal growth. More labile organic carbon that lacks associated N or P (such as polysaccharides and alcohols) will get consumed by heterotrophic bacteria which we don't care about (e.g. carbon dosing through vodka or whatever). Conversely labile carbon in the form of proteins or phosphorylated fatty acids are going to be more of a problem.

Another really important thing I think about in my research is rate of various processes. For example, most algae aren't going to be directly degrading the problematic nitrogen-containing source organic compounds, they'll be utilizing the byproducts of heterotrophic organisms that take that organic nitrogen and mineralize it into reduced inorganic nitrogen compounds like ammonia and nitrate. This process is comparatively slow. If you export your nitrogen biologically (using macroalgae, DSB, or what have you), you also have to wait for the nitrogen to be mineralized and then compete with the undesirable organisms for it. (The exception of course would be exporting biomass from heterotrophs like sponges). If you can remove the source organic nitrogen using a mechanical or chemical process that operates at a significantly faster rate than the biology, you can get it out of the system before your bad algae even has a chance to compete.

I've read in this thread about some experimental evidence suggesting that skimmers aren't very good at removing TOC. By contrast I've also read a lot of anecdotal evidence that suggests skimming might be pretty good at maintaining water chemistry that keeps algal growth in control. Although these observations might seem to be in tension, it could be that skimmers are very good at rapidly removing the 20% of TOC that is really problematic (also contains organic N and P) before it has a chance of entering the slower biological cycle. And maybe GAC is good at eventually adsorbing a lot of TOC, but it can't do it until that carbon is solubilized, and perhaps by that point you've already mineralized some of the N and P.

I don't really know. Something to consider!

And secondly (Good God I'm long winded; my apologies) I'm extremely curious about your plans for a plankton reactor system. I've always loved this idea, but the implementation seems pretty challenging. Phyto cultures like to crash at the drop of a hat (or a drop of water containing a predator), trophic considerations suggest you need much larger cultures of lower trophic levels, etc. Plus you need to consider that phyto needs those pesky mineralized nutrients to grow and if you grow them in happy phyto media and drip that directly into your tank you're essentially feeding the nuisance algae directly. I remember phyto reactors being discussed a lot a few years back and would be really curious to hear people's experiences with them since.

Batch culturing may have some advantages for autotrophic organisms in that they'll eventually soak up all the nutrients they can before being added to the aquarium, whereas in a chemostat-style continuous culture your output is going to be practically devoid of whatever the growth-limiting nutrient is but with surplus quantities of all other nutrients. You'll also be selecting for different characteristics in the two environments -- cells in the batch culture will tend to evolve faster rates of growth, while those in the chemostat will enhance their ability to suck out ever more quantities of the limiting nutrient out of the media. I'm not sure how practically relevant these considerations are to your project.

My feeling is that a system that combined several large enclosed (to keep out predators) periodic batch phyto culture system with controllable peristaltic delivery to your predator cascade might make for an interesting and tunable experiment. I have a hunch that your predator growth rates might not end up matching very evenly -- you'd be likely to have trouble maintaining acceptable densities of, say, mysids given the rate at which you were able to maintain an acceptable density of rotifers, for instance -- but it would be easy enough convert this whole thing to a more ad-hoc batch culture as necessary. It might be worth doing some rough estimates of growth rates and such for sizing the various compartments.

Anyway, I find this all fascinating, and thanks again for sharing it with all of us!


Cheers,
-Jon
 
Speaking of refugiums.........ours, not mine yet.....ours is running with a water level that is half way between the two exit ports with the top port totally exposed and the bottom siphoning. How do I raise the water level in the refugium?

Peter

You need to increase the flow through the refugium by turning up the DC pump control on the skimmer. It's at 1750 RPM now, but we had it at 1850 earlier. Keep turning it up until the water level is just starting to touch the upper strainer.

If you don't want to increase the flow through the refugium and just raise the level, you could put a ball valve (or gate valve) on the output of the bottom port. Then you simply partially close the valve until the current flow (1750) is too much for the bottom port to handle and it will require the top port to handle the rest. This is basically the same concept as the silent durso's that people build in their overflow, just think of your refugium as a big overflow. :)

Now, if you DO want more flow through the fuge than the afformentioned 1750, by all means, crank that baby up to 1800+ then sit back and :beer:!


-Scott

Hi to all

It's not too often I feel I can contribute to this thread, I would also suggest a ball valve on the lower full syphon drain would be a good way to raise the level, but allowing for Murphy's law, I would also suggest a third, higher emergency drain, as the ball valve could become blocked one day, which means it will become blocked one day, or otherwise an oversized second drain would definetley be a "best practice" solution, I guess for the amount of people following this thread who don't have controllable pumps at least, this would be the better option, and if set up properly, completley silent as well.

I've been following this thread from the first week, I swear I'm learning something new every time I catch up on this thread, so thanks to Mr Wilson and everybody who's adding to this thread/build.

Cheers Ben :beer:
 
Now, there are a few ideas from recent posts that have been intriguing me. My reefing skills are a bit rusty from disuse since I've spent the last few years in the dusty halls of academia, but maybe I can say something interesting from that perspective. :)

First is the discussion of "˜Total Organic Carbon' and its relation to skimmers. Organic carbon in and of itself isn't strictly a problem for our aquaria, but rather the reduced nitrogen and phosphorous that go along with it. The organisms whose growth we're trying to inhibit generally fix their own organic carbon as quickly as they can acquire these limiting elements. Of course we all know this already.

The perspective I'd like to consider is that not all organic carbon is created equally. In the ocean, for instance, there are tremendous pools of really intransigent carbon compounds that get broken down extremely slowly or not at all. These will contribute to TOC but not to algal growth. More labile organic carbon that lacks associated N or P (such as polysaccharides and alcohols) will get consumed by heterotrophic bacteria which we don't care about (e.g. carbon dosing through vodka or whatever). Conversely labile carbon in the form of proteins or phosphorylated fatty acids are going to be more of a problem.

Another really important thing I think about in my research is rate of various processes. For example, most algae aren't going to be directly degrading the problematic nitrogen-containing source organic compounds, they'll be utilizing the byproducts of heterotrophic organisms that take that organic nitrogen and mineralize it into reduced inorganic nitrogen compounds like ammonia and nitrate. This process is comparatively slow. If you export your nitrogen biologically (using macroalgae, DSB, or what have you), you also have to wait for the nitrogen to be mineralized and then compete with the undesirable organisms for it. (The exception of course would be exporting biomass from heterotrophs like sponges). If you can remove the source organic nitrogen using a mechanical or chemical process that operates at a significantly faster rate than the biology, you can get it out of the system before your bad algae even has a chance to compete.

I've read in this thread about some experimental evidence suggesting that skimmers aren't very good at removing TOC. By contrast I've also read a lot of anecdotal evidence that suggests skimming might be pretty good at maintaining water chemistry that keeps algal growth in control. Although these observations might seem to be in tension, it could be that skimmers are very good at rapidly removing the 20% of TOC that is really problematic (also contains organic N and P) before it has a chance of entering the slower biological cycle. And maybe GAC is good at eventually adsorbing a lot of TOC, but it can't do it until that carbon is solubilized, and perhaps by that point you've already mineralized some of the N and P.

I don't really know. Something to consider!

And secondly (Good God I'm long winded; my apologies) I'm extremely curious about your plans for a plankton reactor system. I've always loved this idea, but the implementation seems pretty challenging. Phyto cultures like to crash at the drop of a hat (or a drop of water containing a predator), trophic considerations suggest you need much larger cultures of lower trophic levels, etc. Plus you need to consider that phyto needs those pesky mineralized nutrients to grow and if you grow them in happy phyto media and drip that directly into your tank you're essentially feeding the nuisance algae directly. I remember phyto reactors being discussed a lot a few years back and would be really curious to hear people's experiences with them since.

Batch culturing may have some advantages for autotrophic organisms in that they'll eventually soak up all the nutrients they can before being added to the aquarium, whereas in a chemostat-style continuous culture your output is going to be practically devoid of whatever the growth-limiting nutrient is but with surplus quantities of all other nutrients. You'll also be selecting for different characteristics in the two environments -- cells in the batch culture will tend to evolve faster rates of growth, while those in the chemostat will enhance their ability to suck out ever more quantities of the limiting nutrient out of the media. I'm not sure how practically relevant these considerations are to your project.

My feeling is that a system that combined several large enclosed (to keep out predators) periodic batch phyto culture system with controllable peristaltic delivery to your predator cascade might make for an interesting and tunable experiment. I have a hunch that your predator growth rates might not end up matching very evenly -- you'd be likely to have trouble maintaining acceptable densities of, say, mysids given the rate at which you were able to maintain an acceptable density of rotifers, for instance -- but it would be easy enough convert this whole thing to a more ad-hoc batch culture as necessary. It might be worth doing some rough estimates of growth rates and such for sizing the various compartments.

Anyway, I find this all fascinating, and thanks again for sharing it with all of us!


Cheers,
-Jon



Well said!
 
+ + + + + + + 1

Acadamia where.... MIT!

Very high level post Jon I just learned a lot... especially vocabulary as I had to reference msn dictionary a couple of times to decipher some of your references: labile; chemostat... wow dude! thanks for the education...!!

Excellent post!

Sheldon
 
I will discuss it with Mr. Wilson. He and I are going on a field trip tomorrow to some LFS in the Toronto region.

Peter

Hi Peter,
I am curious as to what you thought of the coral selections on your recent field trip with Mr. Wilson.

Posting names of the stores will probably take this thread off topic quickly. However I am really curious as to how you and Mr. Wilson feel about the availability of corals overall in the GTA area compared to perhaps on-line vendors or other parts of Canada you may have visited.

Congratulations on all your success to date, I have been following along since page 3 and have learned so much from yourself and the talented people you have working with you on this project.

Thanks
Cam

P.s I do a tour around the GTA stores couple times a month just to see what new shipments have come in, I always look for the Bentley when pulling into the parking lots"¦ maybe one day we will meet up"¦
 
Posting names of the stores will probably take this thread off topic quickly. However I am really curious as to how you and Mr. Wilson feel about the availability of corals overall in the GTA area compared to perhaps on-line vendors or other parts of Canada you may have visited.

There isn't much that qualifies as off topic in this thread :) We have some great reef specialty stores in the Toronto area. My apologies to anyone I miss or misspell, but the short list (in no particular order) is...

Sea U Marine (Markham)
Reef Raft (Mississauga)
Oakville Reef Gallery (Oakville)
Aquatic Kingdom (Mississauga)
Reefquarium (Scarborough)
Incredible Aquarium (London)
North American Fish Breeders (Scarborough)
Dragon Aquarium (Mississauga)
Aquarium Depot (Brampton)

There are a few other places I have seen ads for but I haven't made it out to see them yet.
 
Hi to all

It's not too often I feel I can contribute to this thread, I would also suggest a ball valve on the lower full syphon drain would be a good way to raise the level, but allowing for Murphy's law, I would also suggest a third, higher emergency drain, as the ball valve could become blocked one day, which means it will become blocked one day, or otherwise an oversized second drain would definetley be a "best practice" solution, I guess for the amount of people following this thread who don't have controllable pumps at least, this would be the better option, and if set up properly, completley silent as well.

I've been following this thread from the first week, I swear I'm learning something new every time I catch up on this thread, so thanks to Mr Wilson and everybody who's adding to this thread/build.

Cheers Ben :beer:

Your comments and advice is always welcome here. It's great to have so much support as I put this thing together.

Sizing the siphon pipe/hose properly is more efficient than oversizing it and using a ball or gate valve to restrict it. If the feed rate was static, it would make more sense to control the water level in the refugium with a valve rather than the input pump. The water level fluctuation is due to a variable water level in the sump. Once we get the float switch and auto top off hooked up this will be a thing of the past. Our temporary sump was only 12" deep so the water level, however variable, made no impact on the skimmer pump which in turn feeds the refugium.

I try to respect Murphy's law, but even crafty ole Murphy has his limitations. An oversized siphon drain requires a restriction valve to close it off substantially. This is where a stray snail can plug a drain line. Our 1" siphon is draining about 1,000 GPH while the upper vented drain is moving about 300 GPH for a total of 1,500 GPH. If the siphon drain plugs 100% the 1.5" vented drain will kick into siphon with the capability to drain double that amount.

If your overflow is properly protected against stray fish and inverts, clogging is virtually impossible. Our refugium has intake strainers on the two drains so clogging is a non-issue. The display tank on the other hand has oversized teeth that need to be backed up with plastic gutter guard, sooner than later... we already had three fish take the plunge.

So yes, a restriction/control valve should be placed on the siphon line, but correctly sizing the hose is less likely to clog. I find ball valves to be adequate, and gate valves to be unnecessary and too expensive.
 
Good point Mr. Wilson....
So two questions
1) Did you guys pick up any new corals or fish on your outing ?
2) Did he let you drive the Bently ? :lol2:

Thanks for the list of LFS. There are two on 3 on the list that I have never been to. I will check them out this week.
 
Now, there are a few ideas from recent posts that have been intriguing me. My reefing skills are a bit rusty from disuse since I've spent the last few years in the dusty halls of academia, but maybe I can say something interesting from that perspective. :)

First is the discussion of "˜Total Organic Carbon' and its relation to skimmers. Organic carbon in and of itself isn't strictly a problem for our aquaria, but rather the reduced nitrogen and phosphorous that go along with it. The organisms whose growth we're trying to inhibit generally fix their own organic carbon as quickly as they can acquire these limiting elements. Of course we all know this already.

The perspective I'd like to consider is that not all organic carbon is created equally. In the ocean, for instance, there are tremendous pools of really intransigent carbon compounds that get broken down extremely slowly or not at all. These will contribute to TOC but not to algal growth. More labile organic carbon that lacks associated N or P (such as polysaccharides and alcohols) will get consumed by heterotrophic bacteria which we don't care about (e.g. carbon dosing through vodka or whatever). Conversely labile carbon in the form of proteins or phosphorylated fatty acids are going to be more of a problem.

Another really important thing I think about in my research is rate of various processes. For example, most algae aren't going to be directly degrading the problematic nitrogen-containing source organic compounds, they'll be utilizing the byproducts of heterotrophic organisms that take that organic nitrogen and mineralize it into reduced inorganic nitrogen compounds like ammonia and nitrate. This process is comparatively slow. If you export your nitrogen biologically (using macroalgae, DSB, or what have you), you also have to wait for the nitrogen to be mineralized and then compete with the undesirable organisms for it. (The exception of course would be exporting biomass from heterotrophs like sponges). If you can remove the source organic nitrogen using a mechanical or chemical process that operates at a significantly faster rate than the biology, you can get it out of the system before your bad algae even has a chance to compete.

I've read in this thread about some experimental evidence suggesting that skimmers aren't very good at removing TOC. By contrast I've also read a lot of anecdotal evidence that suggests skimming might be pretty good at maintaining water chemistry that keeps algal growth in control. Although these observations might seem to be in tension, it could be that skimmers are very good at rapidly removing the 20% of TOC that is really problematic (also contains organic N and P) before it has a chance of entering the slower biological cycle. And maybe GAC is good at eventually adsorbing a lot of TOC, but it can't do it until that carbon is solubilized, and perhaps by that point you've already mineralized some of the N and P.

I don't really know. Something to consider!

And secondly (Good God I'm long winded; my apologies) I'm extremely curious about your plans for a plankton reactor system. I've always loved this idea, but the implementation seems pretty challenging. Phyto cultures like to crash at the drop of a hat (or a drop of water containing a predator), trophic considerations suggest you need much larger cultures of lower trophic levels, etc. Plus you need to consider that phyto needs those pesky mineralized nutrients to grow and if you grow them in happy phyto media and drip that directly into your tank you're essentially feeding the nuisance algae directly. I remember phyto reactors being discussed a lot a few years back and would be really curious to hear people's experiences with them since.

Batch culturing may have some advantages for autotrophic organisms in that they'll eventually soak up all the nutrients they can before being added to the aquarium, whereas in a chemostat-style continuous culture your output is going to be practically devoid of whatever the growth-limiting nutrient is but with surplus quantities of all other nutrients. You'll also be selecting for different characteristics in the two environments -- cells in the batch culture will tend to evolve faster rates of growth, while those in the chemostat will enhance their ability to suck out ever more quantities of the limiting nutrient out of the media. I'm not sure how practically relevant these considerations are to your project.

My feeling is that a system that combined several large enclosed (to keep out predators) periodic batch phyto culture system with controllable peristaltic delivery to your predator cascade might make for an interesting and tunable experiment. I have a hunch that your predator growth rates might not end up matching very evenly -- you'd be likely to have trouble maintaining acceptable densities of, say, mysids given the rate at which you were able to maintain an acceptable density of rotifers, for instance -- but it would be easy enough convert this whole thing to a more ad-hoc batch culture as necessary. It might be worth doing some rough estimates of growth rates and such for sizing the various compartments.

Anyway, I find this all fascinating, and thanks again for sharing it with all of us!


Cheers,
-Jon

It's good to see someone else's (long) words on the screen for a change. I couldn't have said it better myself... hell, I couldn't have said most of it at all :) I try to keep science at arms length for my own protection, but as an aquarist, I must roll my sleeves up now and then.

Thanks for your interest in the live food contraption. We briefly touched on the subject, then quickly moved on to another topic. You are exactly right, it will be an ad hoc, tuneable device. I will be happy if it just keeps live food items alive for a week and I'm prepared to clean it out and start all over on a weekly basis. With a little luck and some collective head scratching, it may work out to have its own legs. I really would like to fit this thing over the display tank to expedite food, but not at the cost of service access and photoperiod conflicts. The mysis shrimp will probably be a netted item for an occasional treat, due to space limitations, but I have some culture tank space available and I could use the feeding tank as more of an on-deck circle (hopper) than a culturing vessel. The artemia, rotifers, and phytoplankton will also have a farm team and bullpen.

I will order version 1.0 soon and start 'speriment'n. I'm open to anyones sizing and set-up submissions. For anyone who missed it, here is the drawing...

CultureSystem.jpg
 
1) Did you guys pick up any new corals or fish on your outing ?
Yes... coral & fish. Peter is the designated photographer.

2) Did he let you drive the Bently ? :lol2:
He offered, but his tires (or should I say tyres) are basically racing slicks and with rear wheel drive it was dicey driving home in the snowstorm. It took us 40 minutes to get there and 3 hrs to go back.
 
Yes... coral & fish. Peter is the designated photographer.


He offered, but his tires (or should I say tyres) are basically racing slicks and with rear wheel drive it was dicey driving home in the snowstorm. It took us 40 minutes to get there and 3 hrs to go back.

Most car folks Mr. Wilson would be confused with your reference to the rear wheel drive as the Flying Spur is a 12 cylinder all wheel drive vehicle and that is the only historical car reference they would have. They would not know about the new one yet. If we started to talk about that one then the thread would become unmanageable for both of us. Besides since this would be the first one in North America there would be even less familiarity with the car. Even Sara would be confused.

By the way, I have not seen the Gorgonia for two days now. They have closed up and gone home. They are not into the new formula and I would like to see the reaction to your old secret formula.......I would also like to see the reaction form all the new corals......... Can I go back please?? Also the new stuff calls for one capful per 20 gallons ......so that would be 67.5 capfuls.......I did NOT put 67.5 capfuls into the display tank but I did make a sincere effort to spot feed those animals that would benefit from it.........clearly, they did not based on physical observation. Your thoughts??

Peter
 
It's good to see someone else's (long) words on the screen for a change. I couldn't have said it better myself... hell, I couldn't have said most of it at all :) I try to keep science at arms length for my own protection, but as an aquarist, I must roll my sleeves up now and then.

Thanks for your interest in the live food contraption. We briefly touched on the subject, then quickly moved on to another topic. You are exactly right, it will be an ad hoc, tuneable device. I will be happy if it just keeps live food items alive for a week and I'm prepared to clean it out and start all over on a weekly basis. With a little luck and some collective head scratching, it may work out to have its own legs. I really would like to fit this thing over the display tank to expedite food, but not at the cost of service access and photoperiod conflicts. The mysis shrimp will probably be a netted item for an occasional treat, due to space limitations, but I have some culture tank space available and I could use the feeding tank as more of an on-deck circle (hopper) than a culturing vessel. The artemia, rotifers, and phytoplankton will also have a farm team and bullpen.

I will order version 1.0 soon and start 'speriment'n. I'm open to anyones sizing and set-up submissions. For anyone who missed it, here is the drawing...

CultureSystem.jpg

Jon did have some great info on this subject and a couple of elements that I was able to extract from a design perspective would be around the notions of variable rate adjustments given actual experience with the prototype behaviour. If it was possible it would be worthwhile to make the compartments adjustable so that growth rates would be optimized to maintain ideal ratios throughout the ecosystem. I also suspect you might even reduce the number of crashes caused by overcrowding as well. Of course you have already thought of these things so I'll continue my photo taking.........speaking of which. I was thinking of releasing a long photo essay of the current status including the fish, coral etc, as well as most of the elements in the fish room. I would number each shot to ensure we reduce the inevitable redundancy in quoting posts with pictures in them. Do you want to wait until the second Mangrove unit is populated?

Peter
 
You can round it up to 68 caps :) Yes, by all means go back to the Mr.Wilson approved feeding protocol.

Interesting... no feeding response at all... not even drooling? That was a good test. It's $20 down the drain trying that liquid food, but that's a cheap lesson.

Don't worry about new anything, I'l leave it to you to let the cats out of their respective bags as you deem fit.
 
You can round it up to 68 caps :) Yes, by all means go back to the Mr.Wilson approved feeding protocol.

Interesting... no feeding response at all... not even drooling? That was a good test. It's $20 down the drain trying that liquid food, but that's a cheap lesson.

Don't worry about new anything, I'l leave it to you to let the cats out of their respective bags as you deem fit.


Thank you Mr. Wilson..........here is the before state. That is it's current state before the magic elixer:bounce2::wildone::wildone::wildone::bounce1:



0_0_99c869f9c241f076036c86442a4928c2_1



I will feed them in about an hour............from .........now!!!!


Peter
 
Jon did have some great info on this subject and a couple of elements that I was able to extract from a design perspective would be around the notions of variable rate adjustments given actual experience with the prototype behaviour. If it was possible it would be worthwhile to make the compartments adjustable so that growth rates would be optimized to maintain ideal ratios throughout the ecosystem. I also suspect you might even reduce the number of crashes caused by overcrowding as well. Of course you have already thought of these things so I'll continue my photo taking.........speaking of which. I was thinking of releasing a long photo essay of the current status including the fish, coral etc, as well as most of the elements in the fish room. I would number each shot to ensure we reduce the inevitable redundancy in quoting posts with pictures in them. Do you want to wait until the second Mangrove unit is populated?

Peter

We have a 4 pump peristaltic pump coming from GHL Profilux soon. It can feed each compartment independently, or I can add a gang valve to split one line. Adjustable compartments are out of the question, as each live food item prey upon their immediate neighbours.

Go ahead with the photos to keep the angry mob at bay. You can label them with Judy's names so there is no confusion with identification.
 
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