Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)

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Amazing build. I only found it about a month ago but decided I must start from the beginning, and now getting caught up it was very much worth the time.

Can you provide any info on the stand for the hospital tank?
 
:thumbsup: very nice update, thank you, tank is looking spectacular! Do you plan to eventually replace the MH's with LED's?

also, what is your current plan for QT and treatment of coral/fish? what pests have you discovered thus far in the display?

We would like to replace the mhl as soon as we can find similar LEDs. Orphek sent me some samples of their new 100 watt single source (high bay) light yesterday. They should be here this week. I'm just not sure if we can fit them over the tank with our low clearance.

We give all new corals a 15 minute bath in Lugol's iodine then a 15 minute bath in Two Little Fishies Revive. It's hard to identify all the "stuff" at the bottom of the buckets, but I have fount two mantis shrimp so far. If I miss an acro crab, it dies or at least staggers out of the coral within minutes. Now I wish we had bathed the live rock, as we are dealing with a 4" nuisance crab now. We had montipora nudibranchs (flatworms) on one of our smaller monitipora, but we managed to remove them with the coral. As soon as we see a significant problem, we remove the coral to the Mars quarantine system for concentrated feeding and observation.
 
Wow!! Your tank is amazing! I found this thread when I was researching the 24 Inch Orphek Power Reef PR156 LED Light Fixture. I am currently beginning a new build with a 68*30*30 tank. I want to migrate to LED to reduce heat and power usage but of course I want to get enough light to my clams at the bottom of the tank. I am currently thinking of two ortek fixtures, one at each end of the tank and a 400 watt 20k radium in a lumenarc reflector in the middle. It looks like the color and light penetration of the Ortek would be nice, I like a little more blue/purple in my tanks, closer to 20k rather than 14k. Once I had a bit more $$$ I would like to replace the halide with another Ortek. In your opinion is my plan a viable lighting solution? Thanks in advance for any input and again your system is simply amazing!
 
Amazing build. I only found it about a month ago but decided I must start from the beginning, and now getting caught up it was very much worth the time.

Can you provide any info on the stand for the hospital tank?

You can see it at 8020.net

It's corrosive resistant, versatile, has leveling feet, easy to engineer (deflection calculator), and you don't have to wait six weeks for a welder to make it. If you need to make any changes, it's all modular.
 
The rock was bone white when it went in 7 months ago. The corals have been steadily added over the past three months and have attached and grown well.

two things i want point out...
one is the 'valley' is already started to lose depth due to the growth,though only one picture shows it,need more clear one....
another is, if my memory serves right,you guys were against putting cynarina,tachyphilas in bed as just ornamental...but still you went to the conventional way...
 
Mr. Wilson,
I am in the process of setting up 2 RK2 systems one is the 75 and the other is a 50. What mods have you done to your rk2 skimmer that you would recommend to others with the same style skimmer? Also did you find a fix for the valves for the auto wash systems. Mine leak as well. Also have you been able to eliminate the micro bubbles coming from the skimmer?
Thank you,
Terry
 
Thanks for all the kind remarks everyone. I'm glad we have been able to share our experience and knowledge. I have kept the thread positive, focusing on the equipment we have been happy with, rather than dwelling on the brands that have been disappointing. One thing I would not like to see come out of this thread is a positive endorsement for these products.

A few people have asked about the acrylic tank manufacturer (ATM). I would like to go on record that I am not satisfied with the build quality and materials of the tank, refugium and original sump/wet-dry. To be fair, this is the only ATM tank, sump and refugium I have seen in person, but I'm, not impressed with any of them. The sump design was very poor with no top frame. It broke before I started on the project. The refugium design is poor and there was no top frame so I had to add an expensive aluminum frame and redesign the drain. The overflow teeth are much too big on the tank, the seams have a lot of void spaces and bubbles, the top and bottom edges aren't polished, and the top frame was built out of a bad pour sheet (1/2" variance in thickness). These seconds are common and usually get melted down into a new sheet.

Each and every day with this project there is a ton of learning and readjustment to standards and quality assessments commensurate with my growing exposure to this hobby. The tank has really met my needs to date in that it hasn't leaked and the optics are good. Having said that I have to admit that Mr. Wilson's comments are correct. The original design, delivery and install was before Mr. Wilson's time on this project but he has been slowly educating me on what the tank should have looked like if it had in effect been manufactured with best practices in mind. It is clearly not a best practice but to be honest this fact would only be in evidence by a trained professional. I do admit that the overall aesthetic would be improved if the edges had been polished. I suspect no one from ATM monitors these threads so these comments will probably go unheeded.
Having said all of that I do NOT want to dwell on the subject now as I will be commenting on this issue as well as others in the Mid Term Review.

Peter
 
We would like to replace the mhl as soon as we can find similar LEDs. Orphek sent me some samples of their new 100 watt single source (high bay) light yesterday. They should be here this week. I'm just not sure if we can fit them over the tank with our low clearance.

We give all new corals a 15 minute bath in Lugol's iodine then a 15 minute bath in Two Little Fishies Revive. It's hard to identify all the "stuff" at the bottom of the buckets, but I have fount two mantis shrimp so far. If I miss an acro crab, it dies or at least staggers out of the coral within minutes. Now I wish we had bathed the live rock, as we are dealing with a 4" nuisance crab now. We had montipora nudibranchs (flatworms) on one of our smaller monitipora, but we managed to remove them with the coral. As soon as we see a significant problem, we remove the coral to the Mars quarantine system for concentrated feeding and observation.

what is your QT protocol for fish? Do you prophylactically treat for anything?
 
Mr. Wilson,
Do we skip the Wison Bar water change today??

Peter

ps. We now have a total of three new baby cardinals two days old and two one month old. Not bad for a beginner!!!! Just in case you are confused, the beginners would be me and the fish of course.
 
Mr. Wilson,
Do we skip the Wison Bar water change today??

Peter

ps. We now have a total of three new baby cardinals two days old and two one month old. Not bad for a beginner!!!! Just in case you are confused, the beginners would be me and the fish of course.

skip it. They can get caught up with the other stuff.
 
what is your QT protocol for fish? Do you prophylactically treat for anything?

We hold all fish in QT Mars system for 3 weeks minimum. We have one system for copper tolerant and another for copper sensitive fish like wrasse gobies, wrasse, blennies and some laterally compressed (flat) fish. We use copper, praziquantel, and neomycin in one system. The other system has metronidazole, praziquantel, neomycin, and quinine as needed. I also use malachite green in baths when the need arises. Fresh water dips from time to time as well.

We keep the copper system salinity at 1.014, and slowly raise it over three weeks. The other system is kept at 1.024 and raised to 1.026 to match the display in the last week of QT.

The new HT was added to hold larger fish. We will be adding some moorish idols soon so we need a place to put them. The Mars system is too small for some corals as well, so it's good to have the space when you need it. Six months from now, the 130 gallon HT will likely be a predator tank with azoox (non-photosynthetic) corals.
 
Algae

Algae

A very enjoyable read. And you are having fun too !

Did the aiptasia pasting work. Any more show up.

I noticed some green bubble algae in a coral pic. Warmed my heart as I stare at it nightly in my tank and muse. Do you expect it to clear up or do you plan on attacking it also.

:beer:
 
A very enjoyable read. And you are having fun too !

Did the aiptasia pasting work. Any more show up.

I noticed some green bubble algae in a coral pic. Warmed my heart as I stare at it nightly in my tank and muse. Do you expect it to clear up or do you plan on attacking it also.

:beer:

The enjoyment lies in the ability to live with a small handful of potential pests like aiptasia and bubble algae. As long as they are kept in check, they are beneficial organisms. The crab on the other hand crossed the line:hammer:

The calcium hydroxide paste in the syringe killed the aiptasia back enough for my satisfaction after about 5 treatments. The kalkwasser in the marine epoxy wasn't successful. We pull out a few bubble algae here and there as we see fit, but there isn't much of it. We also have a similar turf algae that stays in check.
 
I dont know which i have enjoyed the most, watching the tank "come alive" or following the excellent discussions found in the thread. I must admit that as a result of the excellent documentation found within these pages i am a little sad that the tank is up and running. I almost would like you to start again so we could enjoy more lengthy disscussions on the "best practices" of filtration, RO water etc etc.
Whilst I have very much enjoyed reading these discussions, and i now miss them somewhat, i do look forward to what is around the corner as we all follow this tank avidly.

I have a couple of questions if you wouldnt mind.
I have read that some species of fish should be quarenteened for longer than others, infections that they may carry could lay dorment in some species for long periods. Is this something you are familiar with Mr Wilson? Do you consider it? Tbh I am bouyed by your 3 week policy. I have read elsewhere that 3 months is reasonable. I consider myself a patient man but 3 months is a looong time.
Also I am pressuming that you add or have added fish to the QT tanks in bulk, ie you know what you want and order in one fell swoop, QT en mass and then add to the display after 3 weeks at which time you then consider the next batch of lucky tank mates. Has there ever been any cross over?....how was that handled?

Peter I have been a fan of this thread since the first sighting of the crane. I think we have all been humbled by your openess, your elegance and your ability to bring together what has to be one of the most inspiring threads the world over. I can only assume that in person you are a remarkable man and one that leaves a lasting impression on those around you.
 
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