Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)

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Things sure are progressing, the tank is looking great. Hard to believe how much time has passed already since this thread was started, more than a year already. I wish I had more to add, but must be satisfied with sitting back and learning, please keep it up!

The discussion of the potential health hazards of the copper is new to me, has this been formally documented somewhere? Would the same problem occur with the copper products we use to control algae in ponds? My grandkids swim ponds that were treated in the past with copper sulfate:worried2:

Any more thoughts on Mr. Wilson's book, or a timeframe?

And lastly, we have been hearing for years that the LED pricing would get to a place where it was within reach of the average hobbiest. I know you don't like to talk dollars in the thread, but do you see a shift yet, or have any feeling on how far in the future that is?

Thanks in advance!
Matt
 
Peter and Shawn,

Is there any chance of some PAR numbers and comparison of all the new lighting? I know there is a difference with the PAR/PUR issue and I am sure you'll explain that for us in a manner we can understand....... :)

I think this would help to educate us in regards to lighting and coral propagation. It would also give us some insight into your ideas of best practices.
 
is the lighting even throughout the tank? or are there some areas that you want lower light corals or is that achieved by the distance to the lighting only?

i too would like to know what PAR values are.
 
Mr Wilson I would like to get your view on filter socks. Do you think they do more harm than good by removing necessary food that the corals would otherwise consume. I remember reading something from Dr Shimek about this very thing. Proponents of the socks say it helps prevent detritus for building up in their sump whereas I'm thinking that if you set up a duplex sump that you mentioned in the advanced section this detritus would be beneficial.

Thanks
 
Mr Wilson I am interested in your viewpoint on this subject matter as well. I was running 200 micron filter socks on a 2 day replacement schedule so as to avoid breakdown of the organics as I too was concerned with detritus build up in the sump due to it's slower turnover. Additionally I've maintained the use of a K4 in the sump to suspend detritus in the skimmer chamber which then seems to mostly settle in the middle sandbed chamber or return where it's very easy to siphon or sponge out.
Needless to say I got tired of the swapping and stopped using the socks and have not noticed much difference other than slightly less film build up on the glass and better polyp extension on some of my SPS.
 
Padrino said:
Mr. Wilson,
You may have mentioned this already a couple hundred pages back and for that i apologize.
http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af109/reefandrainforest/fe3e583e.jpg

These pumps in the above picture? They control the closed loop? Which pumps are they? DC brushless? Controllable? Where did you get them?

Thanks
Rob
Click to expand...

Four of them are for the closed loop and there is another one attached to the sump as a return pump.

They are made by Venotech in Germany. The model is Abyzz 420.

They are DC brushless with a controller that does up to 8 pumps individually. It monitors/controls rpm, pump temp, water at pump, power consumption, 4 day speed cycles from 0-100% in one second or one minute intervals, 4 night cycles, audible alarm, thermal and run dry on/off. Absolutely silent, 6,500 GPH, 9m head pressure, titanium shaft and stater. The wet end of the pump runs at about 85˚ F, compared to most at 130˚F.

You can order from several distributors in germany. They do not make a North American version or have a distributor.
 
muttley000 said:
Things sure are progressing, the tank is looking great. Hard to believe how much time has passed already since this thread was started, more than a year already. I wish I had more to add, but must be satisfied with sitting back and learning, please keep it up!

The discussion of the potential health hazards of the copper is new to me, has this been formally documented somewhere? Would the same problem occur with the copper products we use to control algae in ponds? My grandkids swim ponds that were treated in the past with copper sulfate:worried2:

Any more thoughts on Mr. Wilson's book, or a timeframe?

And lastly, we have been hearing for years that the LED pricing would get to a place where it was within reach of the average hobbiest. I know you don't like to talk dollars in the thread, but do you see a shift yet, or have any feeling on how far in the future that is?

Thanks in advance!
Matt
Click to expand...

I don't know anything about the human dangers of copper exposure, other than the dangers of ingesting it.

Symazine is a common algaecide, and it is a known carcinogen. there is heavy regulation on products sold as algaecides, that's why some companies sell algaecides as water clarifiers or under other names.

No time for books or writing now, maybe next year.

LED pricing has gone down, but quality and intensity has gone up so it's hard to notice. The 120 watt Orphek LEDs we are using retail for $850. Some manufacturers have invested in controller R&D while Orphek has invested in the emitter technology. As soon as the Chinese manufacturers catch up with current technology, prices will drop. We still have a few years before advances plateau. The next big thing in LED is high bay lighting with 100 or 300 watt single light sources. These lights run about $750 and won't drop in price for a few years.
 
msr224 said:
Peter and Shawn,

Is there any chance of some PAR numbers and comparison of all the new lighting? I know there is a difference with the PAR/PUR issue and I am sure you'll explain that for us in a manner we can understand....... :)

I think this would help to educate us in regards to lighting and coral propagation. It would also give us some insight into your ideas of best practices.
Click to expand...

I posted the general PAR numbers recently. I will take some pics and post the par for a few areas soon.
 
Reefski's said:
is the lighting even throughout the tank? or are there some areas that you want lower light corals or is that achieved by the distance to the lighting only?

i too would like to know what PAR values are.
Click to expand...

PAR values range from 650 near the surface to 450 in the middle and 300 on the bottom near the viewing panels. Height, angle, and shadows provide an area for low light corals. We have some caves and overhangs for sponges and dendronephthya.
 
klviper said:
Any update on the clearwater tech ozone system... Is it up and running?
Click to expand...

I'll admit I've been lazy in wiring the relay. I've turned it on a few times, and it works, but it will have to wait until the relay can turn it on and off via Profilux. For now, we are using the Del Zone T3 ozonizer.
 
nuccadoc said:
Mr Wilson I would like to get your view on filter socks. Do you think they do more harm than good by removing necessary food that the corals would otherwise consume. I remember reading something from Dr Shimek about this very thing. Proponents of the socks say it helps prevent detritus for building up in their sump whereas I'm thinking that if you set up a duplex sump that you mentioned in the advanced section this detritus would be beneficial.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Our tank is a snow globe of detritus even with four 100 micron filter socks. There is no shortage of free-floating food. If you are concerned, you can turn your return pump off (feed mode) during feeding time or at night.

If you don't feed 50-150 micron coral food to your tank, then yes, you should lose the filter socks to keep detritus suspended. If your flow is poorly engineered then you don't need a filter sock because it will settle in the substrate and rock work, but you will have nuisance algae problems and elevated nutrient levels.

The idea is to feed heavily, then remove uneaten food with various forms of mechanical filtration. A cryptic zone in the sump will help process detritus biologically. I use starfish and urchins in the sump to vacuum up whatever settles. A surge system in the sump or anywhere that detritus can settle is a good idea.
 
aquainas said:
Mr Wilson I am interested in your viewpoint on this subject matter as well. I was running 200 micron filter socks on a 2 day replacement schedule so as to avoid breakdown of the organics as I too was concerned with detritus build up in the sump due to it's slower turnover. Additionally I've maintained the use of a K4 in the sump to suspend detritus in the skimmer chamber which then seems to mostly settle in the middle sandbed chamber or return where it's very easy to siphon or sponge out.
Needless to say I got tired of the swapping and stopped using the socks and have not noticed much difference other than slightly less film build up on the glass and better polyp extension on some of my SPS.
Click to expand...

I agree filter socks are a PITA. If the burden of cleaning them exceeds the rewards, then they simply aren't worth it. Protein skimmers collect some detritus. If you keep detritus suspended long enough, it will eventually reach the open mouth of a coral. Settling containers allow detritus to be siphoned out easily.

In summary, I use filter socks but don't consider them to be necessary. The main reason why I value them is to keep the snow globe from getting too turbid for visibility.
 
mr.wilson said:
Four of them are for the closed loop and there is another one attached to the sump as a return pump.

They are made by Venotech in Germany. The model is Abyzz 420.

They are DC brushless with a controller that does up to 8 pumps individually. It monitors/controls rpm, pump temp, water at pump, power consumption, 4 day speed cycles from 0-100% in one second or one minute intervals, 4 night cycles, audible alarm, thermal and run dry on/off. Absolutely silent, 6,500 GPH, 9m head pressure, titanium shaft and stater. The wet end of the pump runs at about 85˚ F, compared to most at 130˚F.

You can order from several distributors in germany. They do not make a North American version or have a distributor.
Click to expand...


Wow that is some serious pocket change. How do you like them thus far? If i remember correctly when you came to visit me in Barrie, that they were really late on delivery? Definately has some awesome features that I cannot afford. Perhaps you know of a similar pump that would be good for a closed loop setup on a 220 that has variable flow and is more affordable.

Thanks Shawn!
Rob
 
Padrino said:
Wow that is some serious pocket change. How do you like them thus far? If i remember correctly when you came to visit me in Barrie, that they were really late on delivery? Definately has some awesome features that I cannot afford. Perhaps you know of a similar pump that would be good for a closed loop setup on a 220 that has variable flow and is more affordable.

Thanks Shawn!
Rob
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, there aren't very many options at this point in time. Royal Exclusiv has a new DC pump called "Speedy" that looks promising, and at half the price. No news as to when it will be available in North America.
 
its made from aluminum Extrusion. You make it yourself. However i would only use this product on small nano tanks only. Ive seen this stuff bent under load
 
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