Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)
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golf nut
Premium Member
Sounds like there is a bit of a time restraint happening here, making hasty decisions isn't going to help, the closed loop returns, feeds and the sump returns if addressed correctly will at least save you some issues.
All the sump returns should be pointed towards the overflow ends, all the C/L returns should be pointing away from the overflows,the C/L drains should point towards the overflow boxes aiding in gaining momentum. this will cause some dynamic flow and get the crap at the surface out of the tank and to where it should be, as it is at the moment you will have surfactants pooling on the surface in a number of locations doing nothing but harm. It is hard to tell exactly what size pipe you have coming from below the tank but once it has been reduced adding a bunch of elbows realizes nothing, keep them mathematically correct ie if you have a 1 1/2 C/L return then use only two one inch outlets pointing away from overflow boxes for maximum effect.
Please install ball valves below wherever possible so that changes down the road will at least be an option.
All the sump returns should be pointed towards the overflow ends, all the C/L returns should be pointing away from the overflows,the C/L drains should point towards the overflow boxes aiding in gaining momentum. this will cause some dynamic flow and get the crap at the surface out of the tank and to where it should be, as it is at the moment you will have surfactants pooling on the surface in a number of locations doing nothing but harm. It is hard to tell exactly what size pipe you have coming from below the tank but once it has been reduced adding a bunch of elbows realizes nothing, keep them mathematically correct ie if you have a 1 1/2 C/L return then use only two one inch outlets pointing away from overflow boxes for maximum effect.
Please install ball valves below wherever possible so that changes down the road will at least be an option.
Untamed12
New member
Yes, you need to get those strainers replaced with the ones suggested by Mr. Wilson. I use one of those on each of my CLs and they work extremely well. I don't think you need two per CL, however. One has more than enough surface area to reduce suction to "completely harmless".
Make sure you can access them for quick cleaning and replacement. Yes, moving them a few inches higher is also a good idea to reduce the chances of sand getting sucked in.
Make sure you can access them for quick cleaning and replacement. Yes, moving them a few inches higher is also a good idea to reduce the chances of sand getting sucked in.
nineball
Active member
I'm smelling a golf game in here somewhere...........
The install team were here Friday doing some of the preliminary pipe work......it sort of smelled like a glue factory. I will take some pictures of the layout and post them tomorrow. I will also walk through your narrative to ensure we haven't missed anything. Then I will invite you to grade our progress. My hope is that Mr. Wilson doesn't agree with any of this because if he does I'm in for a ton of abuse I think!
Thanks very much for taking the time to comment, it is sincerely appreciated. Hopefully the results will give us both pride in the result.
Peter
nineball
Active member
Good, I'm hoping that Golf Nut's mentoring through this phase goes some distance to improving on some of the concerns the group had at the outset......
Peter
nineball
Active member
I have already set aside time to order them tomorrow. I'm pursuing the notion of raising the CLs 6 inches if possible.
It really does help by the way, when an idea or suggestion gets endorsed by others suggesting a consensus. There are real benefits when we can actually agree on anything...........
Peter
nineball
Active member
As I'm sure a majority on this thread would agree, money will NOT guarantee a success with this build. The issues noted so far have nothing to do with money......they have to do with planning, discipline, execution and attitude. Six figures is considerably easier to get than producing a quality build on this scale in my opinion. But what do I know............
Welcome Reefteck, this group can always use an intelligent/talented guy. Seriously, mistakes will be made and if you are willing to help reduce them you are very welcome to join this group.
Peter
Padrino
New member
CANNOT AGREE MORE!!! i wish i could get one of these on my next project.
Peter,
I'm not sure if you took this suggestion into consideration. It would really cut down on the amount of work you would need to do with respect to water changes.
Here is one of my favorite TOTM. Paul uses one of the Dailyseas and swears by it. I highly recommend you consider this with a system this large. You will thank me later. If you are unhappy with it at any time,let me know and ill buy it off you.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-12/totm/index.php
HTH
Rob
ReefTECK
New member
Well thank you for a welcome! lol
I couldn't agree more, this project will require so much of your own intelligence and talents to be done correctly, and I have to say what a great start.
I also think it's important not to equate sucess with expense, but it's hard not to equate granite counters, mahogany floors, and a 1500 gallon reef tank (that will surely consume near 400-500 dollars worth of energy/mth) with some astronomical expenses!
In fact probably the best way in which you can demonstrate your talents and attention to detail is by engineering the most energy effecient and failsafe design you can conjure. I already saw that natural gas powered standby generator you have, and that's just the type of thinking I admire!
Regards,
Andy
ReefTECK
New member
At a discounted price right? lol
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I came for the plumbing challenge and stayed for the fumes 
I fully agree with Golf nut with regard to the flow dynamics. Your basics are there, you just need to make that flow do more for you. Flow is a matter of quality, not quantity. You should have no dead spots at the surface where "floating stuff" can collect, and the substrate should have minimal areas where "heavy stuff" can settle. A circular flow pattern whereby the sump returns direct water toward the overflows at the ends, and the closed loop returns direct the water away from the end overflows. Of course rock work wreaks havoc with this perfect storm we are conjuring, but you can't have it all.
I fully agree with Golf nut with regard to the flow dynamics. Your basics are there, you just need to make that flow do more for you. Flow is a matter of quality, not quantity. You should have no dead spots at the surface where "floating stuff" can collect, and the substrate should have minimal areas where "heavy stuff" can settle. A circular flow pattern whereby the sump returns direct water toward the overflows at the ends, and the closed loop returns direct the water away from the end overflows. Of course rock work wreaks havoc with this perfect storm we are conjuring, but you can't have it all.
cloakerpoked
New member
I remember reading this TOTM, and besides the absolutely beautiful tank and environment that Paul created...I remember being totally impressed by the Dailyseas unit. This is a top of the line unit that would implement everything we were discussing as far as water changes was concerned with as limited of a risk as possible. It's at least worth looking into if you're wanting to automate your water change procedure. Of course, you've alluded to having a full time fish guy anyway, and anyone worth (forgive the pun) their weight in salt would be able to execute a daily water change.
May I just say that I really admire the attention that has been given to the entire environment of the tank, and not just the tank itself, and though you are a rookie, your openness and methodical system by system review here should give you an excellent chance at success. I've had reefs for about 6 years now, and just a year ago, made a boneheaded mistake on my tank leading to a catastrophic failure. Of course, I am doing this hobby on a very limited budget and didn't have the option of having some of the fail-safe options that were available. The bottom line, I guess, is that I feel as though through your openness to learn from the collective experience of everyone out here, and implement as many fail-safe procedures as possible, I'm very optimistic about the success both short term and long term of this tank! :bounce1:
OK, one last question. How long do you plan to have the rock in the system with it running before you begin to add fish. I've seen that you plan to cure it for 3-4 weeks in the vat, which is fine as long as you're not going to be adding an Achilles tang to the tank as soon as that time period is up. I personally don't see what the difference would be in curing it in the tank or the vat...maybe I missed something.
Padrino
New member
Peter,
Not to really jump the gun here.......... I know you haven't even talked about lighting yet BUT
How will you attach these corals you will be importing to the live rock. Personally a lot of people have used reef safe 2 part epoxy. Ive used it in the past and if you bump the coral by accident it looses the hold and becomes loose. Some of the better reefers in toronto have utilized a small trick you may or may not be aware of. It consists of drilling your live rock with 1/4" holes. When you have your corals ready, you drill a small hole into the bottom of the coral base and insert a piece of acrylic rod or airline tubing will work as well. This can be super glued into place safely for rigidity,
With pre-drilled holes, you will see how easy it is to move corals easily from one spot to the next without changing the chemistry of the water with the two part epoxies. This is one thing i wish i did before adding the water. Since you have a fish guy to take care of this system, perhaps he could get started now so that all rock will be nicely prepared for aquascaping.
There was a great you tube video "carls reef" or something like that and shows the benefits, Seriously i wish i drilled small holes in my rock work
Always trying to think ahead!! It also makes the rock more porous which is good in soo many different ways. You'll thank me later
Rob
Not to really jump the gun here.......... I know you haven't even talked about lighting yet BUT
How will you attach these corals you will be importing to the live rock. Personally a lot of people have used reef safe 2 part epoxy. Ive used it in the past and if you bump the coral by accident it looses the hold and becomes loose. Some of the better reefers in toronto have utilized a small trick you may or may not be aware of. It consists of drilling your live rock with 1/4" holes. When you have your corals ready, you drill a small hole into the bottom of the coral base and insert a piece of acrylic rod or airline tubing will work as well. This can be super glued into place safely for rigidity,
With pre-drilled holes, you will see how easy it is to move corals easily from one spot to the next without changing the chemistry of the water with the two part epoxies. This is one thing i wish i did before adding the water. Since you have a fish guy to take care of this system, perhaps he could get started now so that all rock will be nicely prepared for aquascaping.
There was a great you tube video "carls reef" or something like that and shows the benefits, Seriously i wish i drilled small holes in my rock work
Always trying to think ahead!! It also makes the rock more porous which is good in soo many different ways. You'll thank me later
Rob
skanderson
New member
i would put a strong second in for predrilling your live rock. put a lot of holes in it, more than you think you would ever need. i believe that a 3/8 inch masonary bit will allow you to put most frag plugs directly into the holes you have drilled, at least until they get filled with coraline algae. also you can use the holes to place fiberglass or acylic rods to keep your reef structure stable. the advantage of using predrilled holes for placement of corals is that it is very hard to reach all the spots in a big tank and most of the adhesives you can use are not all that stable all that fast. drill baby drill.
Padrino
New member
Check out this really old video, there is a section where he touches on this subject
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pzKZpkfiLpg&feature=related
NOTE: i would not take anything for gospel in this video as many would disagree about having an Achilles tang in a small tank. But lets not open this can of worms. Look for the part where he describes how he moves the corals to different position
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pzKZpkfiLpg&feature=related
NOTE: i would not take anything for gospel in this video as many would disagree about having an Achilles tang in a small tank. But lets not open this can of worms. Look for the part where he describes how he moves the corals to different position
nineball
Active member
What's Happening Now???
What's Happening Now???
We have decided not to put the cabinet doors on over the tank until the live rock is finished. The final coat will be completed with lots of drying time to avoid any off gassing.
All of the fish room prep will have to be completed before any activity can take place in the tank. The plans for the fish room are quite elaborate and will require time to complete.....its almost like a complete building within a building. The room as noted earlier will be insulated for sound, moisture and have its own separate HVAC.
We are finishing the drawings for the electrical and plumbing and have modified a considerable number of elements from the original design based on the feedback we got from this thread. The underlying principles guiding our blueprints are that change and evolution is a constant reality so flexibility is paramount.
We think a separate panel for electrical that is bound exclusively to the generator is mandatory. This way a catastrophic event can trigger an instant automated response first for safety and second for containment. We need a special kind of panic switch that will kill all systems and NOT go to backup based on environmental rules we define. On the other hand all things being equal a normal power fail should automatically fail over. This system already goes through automatic weekly test to verify.
Obviously water management is key and we are trying to make sure that our ability to respond to a number of scenarios is put in place. We are planning to surface mount as much of the plumbing as possible.
John from DQI is the PM for this phase and can help answer any questions should they arise.
I will be looking into the Dailyseas unit as it certainly has a huge appeal.
For folks looking for the next photo fix. There will be some progress shots as we motor through this phase warts and all.
I just realized my fish guy told me that the live rock is now expected this Friday which is the first day of a four day holiday..........I have some checking to do.........
I will answer the posts above soon but I have some scheduling issues I've got to straighten out first............
Peter
What's Happening Now???
We have decided not to put the cabinet doors on over the tank until the live rock is finished. The final coat will be completed with lots of drying time to avoid any off gassing.
All of the fish room prep will have to be completed before any activity can take place in the tank. The plans for the fish room are quite elaborate and will require time to complete.....its almost like a complete building within a building. The room as noted earlier will be insulated for sound, moisture and have its own separate HVAC.
We are finishing the drawings for the electrical and plumbing and have modified a considerable number of elements from the original design based on the feedback we got from this thread. The underlying principles guiding our blueprints are that change and evolution is a constant reality so flexibility is paramount.
We think a separate panel for electrical that is bound exclusively to the generator is mandatory. This way a catastrophic event can trigger an instant automated response first for safety and second for containment. We need a special kind of panic switch that will kill all systems and NOT go to backup based on environmental rules we define. On the other hand all things being equal a normal power fail should automatically fail over. This system already goes through automatic weekly test to verify.
Obviously water management is key and we are trying to make sure that our ability to respond to a number of scenarios is put in place. We are planning to surface mount as much of the plumbing as possible.
John from DQI is the PM for this phase and can help answer any questions should they arise.
I will be looking into the Dailyseas unit as it certainly has a huge appeal.
For folks looking for the next photo fix. There will be some progress shots as we motor through this phase warts and all.
I just realized my fish guy told me that the live rock is now expected this Friday which is the first day of a four day holiday..........I have some checking to do.........
I will answer the posts above soon but I have some scheduling issues I've got to straighten out first............
Peter
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