Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)
- Thread starter nineball
- Start date
- Status
ya ya ya enough of the mooshy stuff. Post some more pics LOL k Peter its been like 1 month now and you still have not invited me, ahahahh now its getting insulting LOL
Tank looks great, so does that new basement kitchen. When this is all done you need to host a Reefcentral, Ontario members welcome to see my amazing tank night. This way if there is more people you won't be as creeped out about me asking to come over 100 times hahahahah I just wanna see the tank!!!! Toronto Zoo tank sucks. I honestly think my tank is better. And yours beats both!!!!
Tank looks great, so does that new basement kitchen. When this is all done you need to host a Reefcentral, Ontario members welcome to see my amazing tank night. This way if there is more people you won't be as creeped out about me asking to come over 100 times hahahahah I just wanna see the tank!!!! Toronto Zoo tank sucks. I honestly think my tank is better. And yours beats both!!!!
nineball
Active member
Watch out for a bit more of the mooshy stuff........ My live rock is apparently truly, absolutely, for sure arriving Sat morning to be put into the storage vats with pumps and skimmers that have been cooking for the last couple of weeks. I expect that the rock will take between three and four weeks to 'simmer'. The fish room is going through a minor adjustment to steal some more space from my wife's storage space(do not tell her or we'll all be sitting in the fish pond with fish with no names).
That means more marble work in the fish room which means a delay before we can complete the plumbing and electrical work. Thanks to Mr Wilson and others we are struggling with some reorganization of the main equipment sled. The bulk of equipment will go onto the sled(as I call it) which is now 14 feet long by 3 feet deep by eight feet tall. we are trying to allow a passage way all around the sled for servicing and maintenance.
This should take another six weeks because John has to loose enough weight to crawl behind Robbie the robot (skimmer). Just kidding John. John is sitting in a puddle of salt water somewhere in Florida waving a plastic umbrella from an over sized Mai tai. He's due back Tuesday.......... I think that's the trademark for this project.......come work on Pete's fish tank and end up drunk with no memory somewhere in Florida!!!!
So yeah Chago, your invite is sitting in the corner behind that mountain of salt underneath the Miracle Mud.
On a serious note, I like the idea of hosting a Reef Central get together. I thought of getting together as soon as this thing is done but I just realized just how silly that is........these things never 'get done' do they.
I'm thinking John and I might organize an 'in progress' impromptu get together soon to review our progress to date with our current plans......warts and all. Yeah we'll call it the 'Warts and All' party. I just have to figure out how to narrow the guest list down from the 17,300 personal messages requesting invites. I'll work on this over the weekend.
Meanwhile I have some pics to take and post. Annnnnd some islands to name. Thats next I think, I have to get the Grand Master's chosen to bring the live rock design to the fore.
Peter
17,300 aquarium geeks, wow that party would suck ahahahah
I think you said it perfectly, "things never get done". Thats why I love this hobby. I love projects, I love when my wife asks me to build things, renovate etc. I think thats why I love this hobby, because no matter what I had or change. Its still not done and the project only continues. My 90 gallon is running now for about 3 years and I can always do more work to it. But I'm not going to because I just bought a new house with a 1500 sq ft basement. Its already been finished but nothing a little sledge hammer can't fix to make some room for my new 150 gallon build.
Coming Summer of 2010 Chago 150 gallon build!!!! crowd laughs and looks at nineballs thread instead:sad2:
9 Ball I have to say you have it going on. I am on the 150 gal level with a 2400 sf house and people love my tank and house... but MAN...I have to give you your props! You are MTV Crib material and I just love your contemporary design and how you incorporated an aquarium into your decor. When wife gets home I have to show her your thread! We do things big in TX but to have a crane on your street to deliver an aquarium?! :lol:
That's doing it big!!!!!!!!
That's doing it big!!!!!!!!
nineball
Active member
OK kids, on a serious note, this thread is not going to, nor was it ever intended to, turn into a belt measuring contest. Those of you who have been following this journey with me from the begining probably know me well enough to know that I truly belive that size......... only matters in one sport and it ain't this one!!!!!:love2:
I can't begin to tell you how much I have learned from this community BEFORE I knew what size tank was the basis for my new found knowledge. The biggest asset this project will provide to this community will be the huge number of issues that surfaced during the build. Thats not false modesty, that's a fact.
So all you 150 gal aspirants and superstars, welcome to my world. Let's exploit it together. Nature is boss in this house.....not the bank. OK OK maybe my wife gets billing in there somewhere but you guys get my drift.
Thank you both for your enthusiasm, as I have said before, it's the fuel for this thread. And wives (spouses etc) are definately welcome. Their comments questions and complaints are also part of any successful build, as we all know.
Peter
Peter
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Yes, there's no need to talk about size when this home aquarium is only 20 kms away from Peter. If you don't blink, you can see a younger mr.wilson cutting PVC pipe in the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWHSbu6kLwk
nineball
Active member
I'm not totaly positive but, I think someone just stole my belt.
To be sung with large thumping bass;
Pants on the floor, Pants on the floor, sombody get me a belt, Pants on the floor!!!!!
Peter
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
It would be a crying shame to tear up your beautiful garden with a backhoe to keep up with your neighbours, but I have a friend in the building permit office
Until you fill yours with water, Hal Johnson's 900 gallon tank is still the biggest in Oakville.
I quoted a huge curved tank for the beer baron at Chelster Hall (a 48,000 square foot home in Oakville) but he decided that the weekly maintenance was too intrusive with his privacy. I'm used to people changing their minds over budget, but never privacy. I guess he cleans all those toilets himself, or just uses a different bathroom every time
The tank was to be wrapped around a winding staircase across from his bowling alley. You must have a huge basement, I can't even see your bowling alley in the photos
stone.david
New member
less talky talky more picy picy :fun2::fun2:
nineball
Active member
Styles
Styles
There seem to be so many ways of describing aquariums that it will be difficult to narrow descriptors into a generic index of styles that we might agree on. However, my attempt to move the marble along its evolutionary path is to suggest a list, have a bit of fun with the labels, then select four of the styles to feature in our tank.
Choosing the best representative aquariums I suspect will require a herculean skill in diplomacy but one way or another we will manage it.
I asked Chingchai what label he would use to describe his style. After all he is the author and ought to know. His style he thought was "Mountain of SPS". Another member suggested "Cloud Mountain", similar to the distinctive tall mountains featured in the movie AVATAR. I felt that the best description would be "Cloud Mountain of SPS" ...............
Also, the style has been copied successfully by Last Version, another tank in Thailand, and it is this tank that I probably will try and copy as the tank is close to the same dimensions that I will have available for Chingchai's Island. So another criteria has emerged to help us in our challenge.....there must be more than one example. This just gives credence to the notion that there is real substance to the claim that the style is a legitimate repeatable creation.
I also believe that as an active member of Reef Central and past TOTM honouree he has earned the title of Grand Master with class and distinction.
Now I recognize that I have pre-emptively chosen a style and the best representation of that style for this first candidate in the quest to find the Four Grand Masters.
The other three are yours to identify and choose. I will honour them with your help by replicating as best I can, the chosen style in our tank.
If this starts to look or feel like American Idol I will step in to corral the loose energy.
So three styles to go...........remember we are NOT looking for any people yet just observable, repeatable and definable styles.
here is a short list to get us started:
vegetable stand
racetrack
canyon
underwater fjord
bonsai
Japanese zen
lagoon
So lets hold back on mentioning any personal candidates please just styles.
Can you suggest other styles that are not listed here? Would you modify or change any of the labels listed above?
Once we have an agreed upon list of styles I will choose ten of them and create a poll to select the preferred three styles.
Then I will ask who best represents those styles hopefully from the membership of Reef Central but not mandatory.
OK, again, please no people just names of styles............
vegetable stand
racetrack
canyon
underwater fjord
bonsai
Japanese zen
lagoon
Styles
There seem to be so many ways of describing aquariums that it will be difficult to narrow descriptors into a generic index of styles that we might agree on. However, my attempt to move the marble along its evolutionary path is to suggest a list, have a bit of fun with the labels, then select four of the styles to feature in our tank.
Choosing the best representative aquariums I suspect will require a herculean skill in diplomacy but one way or another we will manage it.
I asked Chingchai what label he would use to describe his style. After all he is the author and ought to know. His style he thought was "Mountain of SPS". Another member suggested "Cloud Mountain", similar to the distinctive tall mountains featured in the movie AVATAR. I felt that the best description would be "Cloud Mountain of SPS" ...............
Also, the style has been copied successfully by Last Version, another tank in Thailand, and it is this tank that I probably will try and copy as the tank is close to the same dimensions that I will have available for Chingchai's Island. So another criteria has emerged to help us in our challenge.....there must be more than one example. This just gives credence to the notion that there is real substance to the claim that the style is a legitimate repeatable creation.
I also believe that as an active member of Reef Central and past TOTM honouree he has earned the title of Grand Master with class and distinction.
Now I recognize that I have pre-emptively chosen a style and the best representation of that style for this first candidate in the quest to find the Four Grand Masters.
The other three are yours to identify and choose. I will honour them with your help by replicating as best I can, the chosen style in our tank.
If this starts to look or feel like American Idol I will step in to corral the loose energy.
So three styles to go...........remember we are NOT looking for any people yet just observable, repeatable and definable styles.
here is a short list to get us started:
vegetable stand
racetrack
canyon
underwater fjord
bonsai
Japanese zen
lagoon
So lets hold back on mentioning any personal candidates please just styles.
Can you suggest other styles that are not listed here? Would you modify or change any of the labels listed above?
Once we have an agreed upon list of styles I will choose ten of them and create a poll to select the preferred three styles.
Then I will ask who best represents those styles hopefully from the membership of Reef Central but not mandatory.
OK, again, please no people just names of styles............
vegetable stand
racetrack
canyon
underwater fjord
bonsai
Japanese zen
lagoon
nineball
Active member
It would be a crying shame to tear up your beautiful garden with a backhoe to keep up with your neighbours, but I have a friend in the building permit office
Until you fill yours with water, Hal Johnson's 900 gallon tank is still the biggest in Oakville.
I quoted a huge curved tank for the beer baron at Chelster Hall (a 48,000 square foot home in Oakville) but he decided that the weekly maintenance was too intrusive with his privacy. I'm used to people changing their minds over budget, but never privacy. I guess he cleans all those toilets himself, or just uses a different bathroom every time
The tank was to be wrapped around a winding staircase across from his bowling alley. You must have a huge basement, I can't even see your bowling alley in the photos
Map to bowling alley.........
Down the hall under the home theater towards the west wing!!!!!!
Weekly maintenence......WEEKLY?????......oh I get it big bowl with no rock, sand, fish or coral. WEEKLY???? must have no glass either. :jester:
Peter
Posidion
Coral Gardner
I believe you have finally come out of your dark closet where you had the affair (with your computer) and have now seen the light. I am certin that you will be heading down the right path here with all your decisions.
nineball
Active member
Tough crowd.....:rolleye1:
Pics will be coming....I took some today but frankly they were boring. I will be quite active tomorrow however as I will try and get as many decent pics of the live rock to use in the aqua sculpting challenge ahead. If you have not seen premium Jakarta branch rock you are in for a treat.
:bounce3:
Peter
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
What is your logic behind having four rock features? Decorating is traditionally done using asymmetry and uneven numbers. The size of each promontory should be different as well with a flow that guides the viewer.
You can have a distinctly different look with each feature, but they need to work with each other and blend with the margins of the tank, particularly the ends. There must e a transition from the substrate to the rock, the plumbing must be hidden, and the overflow boxes should be incorporated in the design without looking like book ends.
I've seen some nice tanks where the ends of the tank were shadowed and the rock structure was spotlighted like art work. You may be able to spotlight each rock formation individually for a less natural, yet more dramatic effect.
You also need to map out how many corals you intend to keep and of what type, as they will grow and change the shape and fabric of the landscape, or seascape in our case. One of the most common mistakes is building the skeleton of the reef too high, leaving no room for coral growth.
The flow and lighting will influence the orientation of the coral, that is to say the form they take, and direction they grow. Corals don't turn towards the sun like sunflowers do, but they do evolve using real estate that has the most light. I was at a club member's house recently and noticed his sps were all facing toward the middle of the tank where light and water flow was coming from, rather than offering a front view. I suggested he angle the lighting towards the back of the tank and positing it more towards the front to minimize shadows, properly orient coral growth direction, and cut down on viewing panel illumination and subsequent nuisance algae growth. reflector selection is also very important, as many people select over-sized reflectors that illuminate the viewing panel as much as the reef structure. This however is rarely a problem with a tank 36" wide or greater.
You can have a distinctly different look with each feature, but they need to work with each other and blend with the margins of the tank, particularly the ends. There must e a transition from the substrate to the rock, the plumbing must be hidden, and the overflow boxes should be incorporated in the design without looking like book ends.
I've seen some nice tanks where the ends of the tank were shadowed and the rock structure was spotlighted like art work. You may be able to spotlight each rock formation individually for a less natural, yet more dramatic effect.
You also need to map out how many corals you intend to keep and of what type, as they will grow and change the shape and fabric of the landscape, or seascape in our case. One of the most common mistakes is building the skeleton of the reef too high, leaving no room for coral growth.
The flow and lighting will influence the orientation of the coral, that is to say the form they take, and direction they grow. Corals don't turn towards the sun like sunflowers do, but they do evolve using real estate that has the most light. I was at a club member's house recently and noticed his sps were all facing toward the middle of the tank where light and water flow was coming from, rather than offering a front view. I suggested he angle the lighting towards the back of the tank and positing it more towards the front to minimize shadows, properly orient coral growth direction, and cut down on viewing panel illumination and subsequent nuisance algae growth. reflector selection is also very important, as many people select over-sized reflectors that illuminate the viewing panel as much as the reef structure. This however is rarely a problem with a tank 36" wide or greater.
Ok well enough of the comments about coming over, but have you talked about lighting yet? I have seen your "sled" looks awesome. I would loveto know what your going to do for lighting? For my 150 I am researching ways on making my own LED system. I would love to see if you did the same thing. It would be educational to everyone who wants LED. I don't like MH for two reasons, HEAT!!!! and rediculous power useage. Now don't get me wrong in anyway I'm no tree hugger, my wife drives a Dodge Journey V6 and I have a Toyota Tundra TRD King Cab. So I'm no hippy. But I honestly don't like the thought that my lights will run over 1000watts for 10 hours non stop every day. I honestly feel more guilty about that then I do about my truck. I currently use T5HO on my 90 and like I said for my 150 because I neeeeeeeed shimmer I will be looking into a DIY LED.
skanderson
New member
my 2 cents is that to accompany cloud mountain style i would look for canyon, lagoon, and one more that is absolutely, positively not vegetable stand. that would stick out like a sore thumb with the other styles in my opinion. just to suggest yet another piece of equiptment, other than the awesomely effective ecoaqualizer, i would recommend getting or having access to a decent par meter. it will take alot of guesswork out of how much light is at different spots in the tank. that will make it easier to move corals around if you think they need more or less light. it can also be used to tell when you need to replace bulbs and how much to dim them by when you do so. keep up the good work. steve
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Here are a few general aquascaping tips...
- try to make it asymmetrical. Symmetry makes it look fake.
- use the small (orange size) pieces on the bottom to make a smaller footprint in the sand and create caves.
- hide plumbing etc. first, then continue with the rest of the tank.
- make sure you orient each rock with the "good side" up, while maintaining the natural strata (the position the rock was formed in) of the rock.
- don't place rocks precariously, for function (balance & stability) and aesthetic reasons.
- every rock has a centre of gravity you need to ascertain and respect.
- add substrate when the rock work is half done so the rock sits on the glass and not the sand. Otherwise fish and inverts will undermine, and collapse the structure.
- make an effort to have a low foreground, medium height mid-ground, and taller background, but don't make it too contrived or it will look fake.
- add more depth by using flat rocks on the back and end walls and through smaller islands or steps in the foreground. You can link these to the mid-ground with bridges, but don't make it too cute... and no Chinese fisherman statues
- remember to leave room for coral to grow at the top of the tank (don't go too high).
- try not to make a straight line of uniform height, break it up with peaks and valleys.
- leave some caves for non-photosynthetic corals and cave dwelling fish.
- create stable shelves for corals. You can use a pedestal to hold it up.
- drill the rock for coral pegs or magnets to hold corals in place.
- keep in mind that you want as much area as possible exposed to light. Too many overhangs or steep drop-offs will cause excess shadowing.
- use key stones to hold the reef structure together. These can double as bridges. Longer, flat bridge-stones will tie the mid-ground and background together for more stability.
- Test the stability of the reef as you go. Gently push down on it from above so the rocks lock together naturally.
- when it's done, go around the base and middle and remove rocks that aren't structural. This will open up the reef and create caves without losing structural integrity.
- try to picture what kind of corals you want in each location and design around that. Create a gentle sweeping base for mushrooms or colonial polyps on the bottom, and holes in the middle regions to hold euphylia branches for an overhang effect. Leave large areas for leather corals to fill. SPS corals look best if they are perched with little rock surrounding it.
- avoid the straight brick wall style at all costs.
- use the biggest rocks before you get stuck with them at the end, when they no longer fit. You can always break them into smaller pieces, but it's a shame when they traveled so far to get to your tank. You have all the puzzle pieces to complete the landscape, you just don't have the box with the picture of the finished product on it
- diversity in rock shape and size is key. Branches and flat pieces look great, but not if you have too many of them.
- most cable ties only last a few years under water, but they can help hold it together as you build and later as corals grow and bond it together. The clear/white cable ties last longer than the black ones.
- if you use powerheads, build caves to hide them and make sure you are able to remove them every couple of months to service.
- make sure that your rock-work doesn't impede with flow from returns or powerheads.
- leave access points for closed loop intakes, so you can use a tooth brush to clean them periodically.
- incorporate large enough coral perches and nooks to avoid stinging from neighbouring corals.
- use large shells or rock rubble at the base so sand sifting fish & inverts can build permanent, stable tunnels. This will stop them from constantly digging.
- leave room between the rock-work and glass for cleaning pads and magnets.
- use the ugly rocks at the back for stability, but don't pack it tight, as you need room for fish and water flow.
- try to leave a channel across the back at the bottom for a closed loop return or powerhead, to eliminate dead spots.
- test fit pieces out of the tank before you put them in.
- large island look good, but even better if one of them is somehow linked to another by rock. This helps with eye flow and continuity.
- don't be afraid of breaking pieces to fit. A small hammer is al you need.
- use only as much rock as you need. Don't feel obligated to add more rock just because you have it.
- if you don't like the way it looks, start again.
- always aquascape while the tank is empty (no water).
- remember to keep looking at the tank from different perspectives as you work, as you need to be sympathetic to all views of the reef. What looks great from one side of the tank may not from another. Even from a sitting or standing position, the look can be affected.
- drill out the rock with a diamond hole saw so you can place the rock over a PVC pipe skeleton.
- drill holes in rocks to allow effluent ports to have free flow while concealing them.
- you can use expanding spray foam to hold rock together, but don't fill void spaces for the sake of doing it, and cover it with aragocrete when it is finished.
- bond your reef structure together with waterproof marine grade cement that is protected against sulphide attack. Microsilica as a 10% admix will help make it more sculptable, cure faster, PH balanced, stickier, and stringer without shrinkage cracks.
- try to make it asymmetrical. Symmetry makes it look fake.
- use the small (orange size) pieces on the bottom to make a smaller footprint in the sand and create caves.
- hide plumbing etc. first, then continue with the rest of the tank.
- make sure you orient each rock with the "good side" up, while maintaining the natural strata (the position the rock was formed in) of the rock.
- don't place rocks precariously, for function (balance & stability) and aesthetic reasons.
- every rock has a centre of gravity you need to ascertain and respect.
- add substrate when the rock work is half done so the rock sits on the glass and not the sand. Otherwise fish and inverts will undermine, and collapse the structure.
- make an effort to have a low foreground, medium height mid-ground, and taller background, but don't make it too contrived or it will look fake.
- add more depth by using flat rocks on the back and end walls and through smaller islands or steps in the foreground. You can link these to the mid-ground with bridges, but don't make it too cute... and no Chinese fisherman statues
- remember to leave room for coral to grow at the top of the tank (don't go too high).
- try not to make a straight line of uniform height, break it up with peaks and valleys.
- leave some caves for non-photosynthetic corals and cave dwelling fish.
- create stable shelves for corals. You can use a pedestal to hold it up.
- drill the rock for coral pegs or magnets to hold corals in place.
- keep in mind that you want as much area as possible exposed to light. Too many overhangs or steep drop-offs will cause excess shadowing.
- use key stones to hold the reef structure together. These can double as bridges. Longer, flat bridge-stones will tie the mid-ground and background together for more stability.
- Test the stability of the reef as you go. Gently push down on it from above so the rocks lock together naturally.
- when it's done, go around the base and middle and remove rocks that aren't structural. This will open up the reef and create caves without losing structural integrity.
- try to picture what kind of corals you want in each location and design around that. Create a gentle sweeping base for mushrooms or colonial polyps on the bottom, and holes in the middle regions to hold euphylia branches for an overhang effect. Leave large areas for leather corals to fill. SPS corals look best if they are perched with little rock surrounding it.
- avoid the straight brick wall style at all costs.
- use the biggest rocks before you get stuck with them at the end, when they no longer fit. You can always break them into smaller pieces, but it's a shame when they traveled so far to get to your tank. You have all the puzzle pieces to complete the landscape, you just don't have the box with the picture of the finished product on it
- diversity in rock shape and size is key. Branches and flat pieces look great, but not if you have too many of them.
- most cable ties only last a few years under water, but they can help hold it together as you build and later as corals grow and bond it together. The clear/white cable ties last longer than the black ones.
- if you use powerheads, build caves to hide them and make sure you are able to remove them every couple of months to service.
- make sure that your rock-work doesn't impede with flow from returns or powerheads.
- leave access points for closed loop intakes, so you can use a tooth brush to clean them periodically.
- incorporate large enough coral perches and nooks to avoid stinging from neighbouring corals.
- use large shells or rock rubble at the base so sand sifting fish & inverts can build permanent, stable tunnels. This will stop them from constantly digging.
- leave room between the rock-work and glass for cleaning pads and magnets.
- use the ugly rocks at the back for stability, but don't pack it tight, as you need room for fish and water flow.
- try to leave a channel across the back at the bottom for a closed loop return or powerhead, to eliminate dead spots.
- test fit pieces out of the tank before you put them in.
- large island look good, but even better if one of them is somehow linked to another by rock. This helps with eye flow and continuity.
- don't be afraid of breaking pieces to fit. A small hammer is al you need.
- use only as much rock as you need. Don't feel obligated to add more rock just because you have it.
- if you don't like the way it looks, start again.
- always aquascape while the tank is empty (no water).
- remember to keep looking at the tank from different perspectives as you work, as you need to be sympathetic to all views of the reef. What looks great from one side of the tank may not from another. Even from a sitting or standing position, the look can be affected.
- drill out the rock with a diamond hole saw so you can place the rock over a PVC pipe skeleton.
- drill holes in rocks to allow effluent ports to have free flow while concealing them.
- you can use expanding spray foam to hold rock together, but don't fill void spaces for the sake of doing it, and cover it with aragocrete when it is finished.
- bond your reef structure together with waterproof marine grade cement that is protected against sulphide attack. Microsilica as a 10% admix will help make it more sculptable, cure faster, PH balanced, stickier, and stringer without shrinkage cracks.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
1000 watts @ 10 hrs per day will cost you $35 a month. Any utility economy is a good thing, but you have to put it into perspective.
iluzhun
New member
Be glad you don't live in Nor. Cal. That 350 KWH will jack you into the third tier billing and cost you no less than $100 bucks. trust me I know. I had 2 years of $450 a month bills when running my 180 gal with 3 400 watt halides. It really sucks.:mad2:
- Status
Similar threads
