Here are a few general aquascaping tips...
- try to make it asymmetrical. Symmetry makes it look fake.
- use the small (orange size) pieces on the bottom to make a smaller footprint in the sand and create caves.
- hide plumbing etc. first, then continue with the rest of the tank.
- make sure you orient each rock with the "good side" up, while maintaining the natural strata (the position the rock was formed in) of the rock.
- don't place rocks precariously, for function (balance & stability) and aesthetic reasons.
- every rock has a centre of gravity you need to ascertain and respect.
- add substrate when the rock work is half done so the rock sits on the glass and not the sand. Otherwise fish and inverts will undermine, and collapse the structure.
- make an effort to have a low foreground, medium height mid-ground, and taller background, but don't make it too contrived or it will look fake.
- add more depth by using flat rocks on the back and end walls and through smaller islands or steps in the foreground. You can link these to the mid-ground with bridges, but don't make it too cute... and no Chinese fisherman statues
- remember to leave room for coral to grow at the top of the tank (don't go too high).
- try not to make a straight line of uniform height, break it up with peaks and valleys.
- leave some caves for non-photosynthetic corals and cave dwelling fish.
- create stable shelves for corals. You can use a pedestal to hold it up.
- drill the rock for coral pegs or magnets to hold corals in place.
- keep in mind that you want as much area as possible exposed to light. Too many overhangs or steep drop-offs will cause excess shadowing.
- use key stones to hold the reef structure together. These can double as bridges. Longer, flat bridge-stones will tie the mid-ground and background together for more stability.
- Test the stability of the reef as you go. Gently push down on it from above so the rocks lock together naturally.
- when it's done, go around the base and middle and remove rocks that aren't structural. This will open up the reef and create caves without losing structural integrity.
- try to picture what kind of corals you want in each location and design around that. Create a gentle sweeping base for mushrooms or colonial polyps on the bottom, and holes in the middle regions to hold euphylia branches for an overhang effect. Leave large areas for leather corals to fill. SPS corals look best if they are perched with little rock surrounding it.
- avoid the straight brick wall style at all costs.
- use the biggest rocks before you get stuck with them at the end, when they no longer fit. You can always break them into smaller pieces, but it's a shame when they traveled so far to get to your tank. You have all the puzzle pieces to complete the landscape, you just don't have the box with the picture of the finished product on it
- diversity in rock shape and size is key. Branches and flat pieces look great, but not if you have too many of them.
- most cable ties only last a few years under water, but they can help hold it together as you build and later as corals grow and bond it together. The clear/white cable ties last longer than the black ones.
- if you use powerheads, build caves to hide them and make sure you are able to remove them every couple of months to service.
- make sure that your rock-work doesn't impede with flow from returns or powerheads.
- leave access points for closed loop intakes, so you can use a tooth brush to clean them periodically.
- incorporate large enough coral perches and nooks to avoid stinging from neighbouring corals.
- use large shells or rock rubble at the base so sand sifting fish & inverts can build permanent, stable tunnels. This will stop them from constantly digging.
- leave room between the rock-work and glass for cleaning pads and magnets.
- use the ugly rocks at the back for stability, but don't pack it tight, as you need room for fish and water flow.
- try to leave a channel across the back at the bottom for a closed loop return or powerhead, to eliminate dead spots.
- test fit pieces out of the tank before you put them in.
- large island look good, but even better if one of them is somehow linked to another by rock. This helps with eye flow and continuity.
- don't be afraid of breaking pieces to fit. A small hammer is al you need.
- use only as much rock as you need. Don't feel obligated to add more rock just because you have it.
- if you don't like the way it looks, start again.
- always aquascape while the tank is empty (no water).
- remember to keep looking at the tank from different perspectives as you work, as you need to be sympathetic to all views of the reef. What looks great from one side of the tank may not from another. Even from a sitting or standing position, the look can be affected.
- drill out the rock with a diamond hole saw so you can place the rock over a PVC pipe skeleton.
- drill holes in rocks to allow effluent ports to have free flow while concealing them.
- you can use expanding spray foam to hold rock together, but don't fill void spaces for the sake of doing it, and cover it with aragocrete when it is finished.
- bond your reef structure together with waterproof marine grade cement that is protected against sulphide attack. Microsilica as a 10% admix will help make it more sculptable, cure faster, PH balanced, stickier, and stringer without shrinkage cracks.
