Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)

Status
Not open for further replies.
Tank preparation and cleanup....

Tank preparation and cleanup....

I decided to have the team clean the tank inside and out from all the accumulated construction dust etc. We decided to leave the shrink wrap in place untill the water test.


0_0_9114799108f7e53db1c5e9ae81343bbf_1



0_0_9007e5a3c80a4255ad6ac40aaf38a2b9_1



0_0_588bda25b1e6cd62af428951015fcc64_1



0_0_1543bda1a4ad609a20a402d27fbcb502_1



0_0_8ab047189732dda41ccb8535f0a4beea_1
 
That's what I'm talking about. Now I get how the tank fits into the room and the perspective of the fishroom. Thanks.
 
Your wine tasting room is exceptional to say the least. I am sure that even an run of the mill bottle would taste wonderful sitting in there.

You must be ready to chew through nails waiting to be ready for the freshwater testing.
our new tank was supposed to be done last Friday, but I had to delay the shipping as my students and I were invited to dive with a coral research team off Abaco in the Bahamas. So we will not even see our tank until the first week of July.

But as you and Mr. Wilson have already noted: " good builds take time"
 
I didn't ask for pictures so I could pick them apart but... The bottom of the tank appears to be level with the top of the marble/granite ledge around it. This will show all the sand, kind of like Uncle Milton's ant farm. I assume lowering the tank or raising the ledge is out of the question so that leaves adding trim or leaving the sand exposed. Leaving it exposed isn't that unsightly, but it is another job to add to weekly maintenance (the sand turns black or green/brown from algae and detritus).
 
I didn't ask for pictures so I could pick them apart but... The bottom of the tank appears to be level with the top of the marble/granite ledge around it. This will show all the sand, kind of like Uncle Milton's ant farm. I assume lowering the tank or raising the ledge is out of the question so that leaves adding trim or leaving the sand exposed. Leaving it exposed isn't that unsightly, but it is another job to add to weekly maintenance (the sand turns black or green/brown from algae and detritus).

To be honest, that was one of three or so reasons I went bare bottom years ago. I am just not a fan of seeing that nor having one more thing to worry about. Not knocking your choice at all just agreeing with Mr. Wilson's take on it
 
Peter, Here is a dumb question for you. The pipes coming into the tank from the top: those are return lines from the sump correct? if so How are you balancing the flow from each outlet. my students and I still have not settled on the entire flow plan for our tank and think that might be what we need as well.

And how can I forget to say it again: wow
 
I didn't ask for pictures so I could pick them apart but... The bottom of the tank appears to be level with the top of the marble/granite ledge around it. This will show all the sand, kind of like Uncle Milton's ant farm. I assume lowering the tank or raising the ledge is out of the question so that leaves adding trim or leaving the sand exposed. Leaving it exposed isn't that unsightly, but it is another job to add to weekly maintenance (the sand turns black or green/brown from algae and detritus).

To be honest, that was one of three or so reasons I went bare bottom years ago. I am just not a fan of seeing that nor having one more thing to worry about. Not knocking your choice at all just agreeing with Mr. Wilson's take on it

Lets talk maintenance...........I believe that Mr. Wilsons points are all valid and should be stated as such in the book. There is no argument.

This build however is slightly out of the norm. I probably in all honesty did not realize just how much commitment would be required to truly respect a build of this magnitude. This is waaaay beyond a hobby for me. The investment in money, time and life priority has gone up measurably since the beginning. Chingchai's build did a great job in helping me prepare for the journey. I now have more appreciation than most for what it took for him to achieve the results that we all praise him for.

I have decided to have the equivalent of a full time person for the first two years. Because there's alot of learning for everyone involved my full time equivalent consists of a pool of four extremely bright and capable guys from the same company who will all handle the basics interchangeably and each individual will has committed to and will specialize in separate skills development such as fish, coral, water quality and food to name a few areas.

I did consider the maintenance with the aquarium floor being exposed as you have correctly noted. I will be shifting the sand once a week on Monday and sifting it on Thursday. The glass will be cleaned completely twice a week to prevent ........everything! The mars bars will also be cleaned twice a week.

My job, in case you are wondering, will be to water the mangrove forest. :wildone:

One of the primary resources for me will continue to be this thread, community and most importantly.................your book!!!!! When our project appears to be working we should be able to claim it was your book that captured the best practices.

So when you come over for your glass of wine and boat ride the aquaria should not be a deterrent.

Peter
 
Peter, Here is a dumb question for you. The pipes coming into the tank from the top: those are return lines from the sump correct? if so How are you balancing the flow from each outlet. my students and I still have not settled on the entire flow plan for our tank and think that might be what we need as well.

And how can I forget to say it again: wow

Yes you are right. These are the return lines from the open system. There are 14 somewhat aim-able nozzles. I have to be honest here, I need some help. What exactly do you mean by "balanced"? This is not a trick question, I have a lot to learn.

Thanks for the wow.

Peter
 
no tricks from me LOL
by balance, I mean how do you plan to keep the first outlets from the pump blowing like a storm will the last in line are a trickly.
 
no tricks from me LOL
by balance, I mean how do you plan to keep the first outlets from the pump blowing like a storm will the last in line are a trickly.

I'm on tricky ground here because Mike (the fish guy) should answer this one but we have a pump that could blow up the Zepplin. Also each of the outlet sets has a flow control that can manage the output to the point of closing it down for maintenance if necessary. I may have just put my foot in it so I will check with mike for verification.

Peter
 
Peter, I have noticed that you did not take down the ductwork above the tank and per Mr.Wilson's request about 1000 posts ago. Do you forsee this as being a problem with maintenance? Forgive me if you have answered these questions but what lighting have you decided to use? Also, do you plan on using ozone?

Thanks,

Scott
 
Lets talk maintenance...........I believe that Mr. Wilsons points are all valid and should be stated as such in the book. There is no argument.

This build however is slightly out of the norm. I probably in all honesty did not realize just how much commitment would be required to truly respect a build of this magnitude. This is waaaay beyond a hobby for me. The investment in money, time and life priority has gone up measurably since the beginning. Chingchai's build did a great job in helping me prepare for the journey. I now have more appreciation than most for what it took for him to achieve the results that we all praise him for.

I have decided to have the equivalent of a full time person for the first two years. Because there's alot of learning for everyone involved my full time equivalent consists of a pool of four extremely bright and capable guys from the same company who will all handle the basics interchangeably and each individual will has committed to and will specialize in separate skills development such as fish, coral, water quality and food to name a few areas.

I did consider the maintenance with the aquarium floor being exposed as you have correctly noted. I will be shifting the sand once a week on Monday and sifting it on Thursday. The glass will be cleaned completely twice a week to prevent ........everything! The mars bars will also be cleaned twice a week.

My job, in case you are wondering, will be to water the mangrove forest. :wildone:

One of the primary resources for me will continue to be this thread, community and most importantly.................your book!!!!! When our project appears to be working we should be able to claim it was your book that captured the best practices.

So when you come over for your glass of wine and boat ride the aquaria should not be a deterrent.

Peter

Surrounding yourself with good help is a wise choice. The cost of the 4 in 1 person will not exceed the cost of your own follies and foibles if you were to go it alone. Getting the lads to specialize in one individual responsibility is another good idea as it assures nothing is overlooked, and they can take pride in making sure their cog in the machine runs smoothly. Assign one rock formation to each of the four helpers and they will work that much harder to make their peace of the reef the nicest. A little friendly competition between them is the best incentive you can get. Speaking of which, you do know how feared the number four is in Asian cultures. The number four and the word for death are the same. I'm surprised they even walk onto a golf course :) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Numbers_in_Chinese_culture
 
no tricks from me LOL
by balance, I mean how do you plan to keep the first outlets from the pump blowing like a storm will the last in line are a trickly.

This is an easy one, so I can save Mike from stepping out of the tank to answer. Flow can be distributed evenly two ways. The most efficient method is to install a manifold, not unlike the exhaust manifold on a car. The water enters a tee at the center of a flowchart-like network of pipes. As the water hits the tee it splits evenly 50/50 in both directions. Subsequent tees further divide the water until all of the effluent (return) lines are fed. You can also use a more linear manifold design whereby a larger 1.5" pipe splits off into a series of 1" tees and 90 degree elbows. The pressure is greater in the larger manifold pipe so water has an equal opportunity to escape through the smaller outlets along the length. The effluent port at the end of the pipe should be a 90 degree elbow. As water tends to find the path of least resistance, the water will tend to favour the shorter lengths of pipe. A control valve on each line is often necessary to make up for design shortcomings.

I have found that lockline either cavitates (sucks air in) or leaks water out in you use it above the water, especially with bends in it. Lockline is okay for short runs and I like the flare nozzles for surface returns a lot, but it does restrict flow due to friction loss and it can mess with your siphon break if it gets moved the wrong way.
 
Peter, I have noticed that you did not take down the ductwork above the tank and per Mr.Wilson's request about 1000 posts ago. Do you forsee this as being a problem with maintenance? Forgive me if you have answered these questions but what lighting have you decided to use? Also, do you plan on using ozone?

Thanks,

Scott

Hey, don't make all of the tough love come from me. Now it's gonna look bad if I point out that he needs to cover the first 3" or so at the top of the tank to hide the water level :)

You need to run the tank with the return pump on first to establish the operating water level. Covering the water level conceals the line of calcification and etching at the surface as well as creating the illusion of a deeper/taller tank.
 
thanks Mr. W. I was thinking shut off valves between the trunk pipe and each outlet. But that makes more sense. Any suggestion on the number of outlets for an 8' long tank (412 volume) supplied by a baracuda pump
 
thanks Mr. W. I was thinking shut off valves between the trunk pipe and each outlet. But that makes more sense. Any suggestion on the number of outlets for an 8' long tank (412 volume) supplied by a baracuda pump

That's a loaded question :) I assume this is a return pump and not a closed loop? If so, two returns at one end with the overflow at the opposing end will give you the best end-to-end flow. You can spread the two lines apart a little so they move the entire width across the surface. You can do a flake food test to make sure that all the food either sinks or overflows into the surface skimmer within 30 seconds. If you get pools of flake collecting along the sides or middle, you need to adjust the two return lines or move them closer to the surface.

The water moving from the sump to the display tank will have the full length of the tank to mix so it will not flow directly into the overflow box. You can test this with food colouring. You will see that the water swirls around and drops to the bottom, especially if it is intercepted by a closed loop.
 
Hey, don't make all of the tough love come from me. Now it's gonna look bad if I point out that he needs to cover the first 3" or so at the top of the tank to hide the water level :)

You need to run the tank with the return pump on first to establish the operating water level. Covering the water level conceals the line of calcification and etching at the surface as well as creating the illusion of a deeper/taller tank.

Done, the cabinet doors have been removed untill the live rock finds a home...........

Peter:bounce3:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top