Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)

Status
Not open for further replies.
We are playing it by ear. If the demand exceeds the supply from the Schuran Jetstream CA reactor, then we will employ our GHL Profilux dosing pumps.

We also have room inline with the auto top-off system for a kalkwasser reactor.

I have added a bit of calcium chloride, calcium hydroxide, magnesium, sodium carbonate, and sodium bicarbonate manually thus far to encourage the coraline algae.

How do you guys like the Schuran...? The first time I saw one of those in action I was really impressed. It really dissolves the CO2 well, capable of completely dissolving a fast rate of CO2, and you don't notice any bubbles at all in the chamber, and can barely tell there is any gas coming off of the Eheim pump... always wanted to get me hands on one. Any issues with yours so far?

SJ
 
Shawn.
Thanks so much for your reply and your PM.

Hi Chingchai,

I have 3 of the 420 eco pumps and also the propellor pump in my 1000 G system in UK.

I mentioned these to Shawn as I reckon is improbable to find a better pump and I'm glad he bought these. I suspect he is as sold as I was with these pumps.

The propellor pump is also amazing. Standard aquarium pumps can't compare and this includes the Tunze Master stream......

The flow is enormous. In my 1000G tank I run it between 20 and 40%. I think it's around 40W for the whole in tank circulation....

I haven't yet tried out the wave function, as I didn't realise you could do this without the surface wave motion!!....

You can get Torsten directly on

korallenwelt@web.de

He also made my tank ceramic rockscape:bounce3:.....

Mo
 
BTW, Shawn

Here's another one for you, straight out of Europe again!. In the interests of best practice, you need to check this thing out!.

I have a Schuran Jetstream2 too, which I haven't actually used. I did use Balling Light, but dose nearly a litre of kH per day, so looking to change....

There is a reactor from Belgium that can push 100dKH and only uses a single dial to control the tank kH/ Ca. No pH probes etc etc..... it's so simple with much less to go wrong than a standard ca reactor. Many many large European tanks are using this reactor and ALL rave about it. It keeps tank parameters very stable in larger systems.

It's called a DaStaCo Extreme 3 Calcium reactor.... and I would certainly suggest you look into it.

In fact, the links are difficult to read, but Luc Loyen (TOTM Reef Central Nov 2010) also uses this reactor. Mine is on order for delivery in a week or two.

Check this link. I can forward an email address if anybody is interested....

fts_lg.jpg


RC%208-2010%20026%20[1600x1200].jpg


http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1929821

Mo
 
Hi Chingchai,

I have 3 of the 420 eco pumps and also the propellor pump in my 1000 G system in UK.

I mentioned these to Shawn as I reckon is improbable to find a better pump and I'm glad he bought these. I suspect he is as sold as I was with these pumps.

The propellor pump is also amazing. Standard aquarium pumps can't compare and this includes the Tunze Master stream......

The flow is enormous. In my 1000G tank I run it between 20 and 40%. I think it's around 40W for the whole in tank circulation....

I haven't yet tried out the wave function, as I didn't realise you could do this without the surface wave motion!!....

You can get Torsten directly on

korallenwelt@web.de

He also made my tank ceramic rockscape:bounce3:.....

Mo

Mo. Thank you so much.
 
I think all Dastaco reactors are custom built. So I think the only way is to inquire at the emailadress of the inventor himself: atol23@hotmail.com.

Personally I don't have any experience with these reactors, but from what I've seen on multiple tanks in the Netherlands and Belgium they seem to work very well.
 
There has been quite a lot of discussion about garlic, both questioning its benefits and also raising some evidence that it may damage the livers of SW fish. Here's a link to a good thread here on RC:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=12393383&highlight=liver#post12393383

Thanks for posting the link, I'll take a look at it later tonight. Many medications can damage the liver. Bacterial infections can also target the liver, as well as fatty liver disease. It's enough to drive fish to drink :)

For the record, I have never made it a practice of using garlic as a treatment for disease. As it turned out, one of the flake foods I bought from OSI contains garlic, as well as the Ocean Nutrition nori I picked up. Seeing "contains garlic" on the container isn't a pro or con for me. I have always considered the practice of dosing garlic as a chicken soup treatment.

My official stance on the matter of quarantine is to prophylactically treat all fish with a cocktail of antibiotics, copper, quinine, hyposalinity and the use of oxidizing agents. I has a wholesale tropical fish importing business for 8 years with 30,000 gallons of holding tanks. Medicating fish is the only way to assure good health (along with good water quality, heavy feeding, and UV sterilization/ozonation). Safe acclimating procedures is another overlooked area.

The Blueface angel was quarantined at a local store and appeared very healthy over a two week period that I observed it. We don't have room to QT such a large fish so it was decided that it was the lesser of the two evils to add it directly to the tank while there were few fish and corals and it could be easily caught. Thus far, the tank has only had relatively ich-resistant fish such as anthias, wrasse, gobies and blennies. This was by design, with more sensative fish like angels, tangs and butterflies coming later. We have two tangs in QT now and they will be medicated before addition. Quinine is soaked into the fishes tissue and remains there for 10 days, while it only lasts in water for two, due to photo-degradation. By treating the tangs with quinine just before moving them to the display tank, they get a 10 day protective coating that will ward off protozoans like cryptocaryon.

Blennies and gobies are particularly well adapted to hyposlainity since many of them live in tidal areas where salinity ranges. Hyposlainity, metronidazole and quinine are adequate for treating cryptocaryon but not effective against amyloodinium which is far more fatal and rapid. Cupramine and coppersafe are ionized or chelated to be safer, but gobies and blennies are "scaleless" fish which are very sensitive to copper. If the level is too high, they may jump out or die. Often these fish are more sensitive to copper than the well protected amyloodinium cysts under the safe mucous coating of the fish or on gill plates. Copper medications deplete the fishes immune system. In the end I feel that it does more good than bad, but not in the case of ich resistant fish like gobies and blennies. The negatives have outweighed the positives of adding copper thus far, but we are at the point of using it now, particularly with winter temperature fluctuations during shipping, and the time for tangs, angels and butterflies approaching.

One problem we have with our QT is the aragonite sand and live rock, as they readily absorb copper medications and can release them later. We will be adding a hospital tank some time soon, once we make some space. We may be better off stripping (removing substrates) some of the tanks in the MARS system and running them on air-driven sponge filters with a lower water level. This way we can dose elevated levels of antibiotics and other meds for short periods, then dilute them down to standard therapeutic levels. Sterilizing tanks with chlorine and moving fish helps break the parasite cycle, but netting fish is counterproductive as it damages fish tissue.
 
We actually did look into a light mover, but a new design I came up with. Traditionally light movers are either "walkers" that move a single or multiple lights along a linear track, or a two, three or four branch rotating circle of lights. My design was brought on by the limited light spread of LED lighting.

The small footprint of LED lighting can be shifted over the photoperiod from "East" to "West" like the sun. My design called for a servo motor to slowly rotate a rod or pipe 20˚ in one direction to bring the light parallel with the surface of the water, then rotate another 20˚ farther for the afternoon sun. This would achieve the goals of diminishing shadows, limiting illumination of viewing panels, light variation & coverage, while providing a natural look. In the evening, when the lights go out, the motor would turn the light back to its original position (rising in the East).

I don't know if the idea would work, or if it is worth the trouble, as we decided to go with MHL instead. I liked the idea that numerous fixtures could be mounted on one central rotating rod/pipe. One of the benefits is silent operation, which you don't get with clunky agricultural light movers. Here is a drawing of a top view...

OrphekLayout.jpg
 
How do you guys like the Schuran...? The first time I saw one of those in action I was really impressed. It really dissolves the CO2 well, capable of completely dissolving a fast rate of CO2, and you don't notice any bubbles at all in the chamber, and can barely tell there is any gas coming off of the Eheim pump... always wanted to get me hands on one. Any issues with yours so far?

SJ

We haven't used the Schuran reactor yet because we are still working with a temporary sump. I tried to adapt it to be a fluidized bed calcium reactor with sugar-fine aragonite media, but the pump was too strong and there is no room to add a control valve as it is configured (in metric as well). We will do a full review once it is up and running.
 
BTW, Shawn

Here's another one for you, straight out of Europe again!. In the interests of best practice, you need to check this thing out!.

I have a Schuran Jetstream2 too, which I haven't actually used. I did use Balling Light, but dose nearly a litre of kH per day, so looking to change....

There is a reactor from Belgium that can push 100dKH and only uses a single dial to control the tank kH/ Ca. No pH probes etc etc..... it's so simple with much less to go wrong than a standard ca reactor. Many many large European tanks are using this reactor and ALL rave about it. It keeps tank parameters very stable in larger systems.

It's called a DaStaCo Extreme 3 Calcium reactor.... and I would certainly suggest you look into it.

In fact, the links are difficult to read, but Luc Loyen (TOTM Reef Central Nov 2010) also uses this reactor. Mine is on order for delivery in a week or two.

Check this link. I can forward an email address if anybody is interested....

fts_lg.jpg


RC%208-2010%20026%20[1600x1200].jpg


http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1929821

Mo

I will certainly look into it. Hopefully it is as simple as you report, and if it has good reviews with people who have high demands, then it looks promising.
 
mr.wilson, for your rotating light shaft (there's a joke in there somewhere) wouldn't that end up shining a lot of light on the side panes of the aquarium? Wouldn't it be better if the LED units rotated such that the light always stayed in/over the aquarium? I realize that would involve many short axes width-ways and complicate your design somewhat.

Dave.M
 
I have always considered the practice of dosing garlic as a chicken soup treatment. QUOTE]

You bite your tongue Mr. Wilson.... Mama's chicken soup cures everything!!!

... and water puts out fires, but you can't fight a forest fore wish a plant mister.

Garlic is too little, too late when fighting off fish parasites. It's a great tool for getting them to eat though. I think the amount most hobbyists use is too little to cause liver damage and too little to effect a cure.

Now if you are talking about Mama's garlic soup, that's completely different.
 
mr.wilson, for your rotating light shaft (there's a joke in there somewhere) wouldn't that end up shining a lot of light on the side panes of the aquarium? Wouldn't it be better if the LED units rotated such that the light always stayed in/over the aquarium? I realize that would involve many short axes width-ways and complicate your design somewhat.

Dave.M

The idea behind light movers is to get another 25-50% more coverage. This extra coverage comes at a compromise of light in other areas, but not if you have already met/exceeded the photosynthetic compensation point for the day.

LED light in particular has a very limited coverage area. One option is to raise the light several feet over the tank for better coverage, once again, at the cost of intensity. This is not a viable option for taller tanks with limited overhead clearance, as in Peter's case. We found that angling LED light fixtures about 20˚ allowed the light to travel farther and spread out more while remaining close to the surface of the tank.

Our first idea was to angle two parallel lights inward from both sides of the tank. This would illuminate the centre rock structure without shadows while keeping light off of the viewing panels and from casting shadows on fish. A simple shaft could cover the same area with just one light. Perhaps a longer photoperiod would be required, but that would move our 8 hour photoperiod closer to the 14 hour day corals would get on a natural coral reef. Keep in mind, this is 14 hours of varying intensity, not an instant on without shadows.

Back to your question, the angle of the fixture would have to be customized to keep light off of the viewing panels. At present, very little light would get within 4" of the front and back panels due to the nature of LED light. There is room for probably a 15-20˚ degree swing in each direction. Metal halide lighting is a completely different story as reflectors spread the light considerable more. The light mover idea was more of an idea for making up for the shortcomings of LED than a method of reducing the number of fixtures needed or a way of providing more natural looking light.

A rotating light mover would only create a disco floor revolving spotlight. They are noisy, corrode easily, and use exponentially more electricity than the rotating horizontal rod idea (RPMs).

Running LED lighting on an angle also breaks up the unnatural shimmer they create and minimizes hot spots in the centre and shadowing between fixture overlap.

One nice thing about Peter's tank is it gets very little algae on the viewing panels. We have cut back to cleaning the walls once a week, and it is easily carried out with a magnet without a scraper. Less cleaning isn't just less work, it's also fewer scratches in the acrylic.

An alternative to the rotating shaft idea would be to mount each LED at opposing angles, but I don't know how you could shift them efficiently. There are some methods of moving things with heat expansion such as gas charged greenhouse vents. As the heat increase, the gas expands and open a roof vent; as it cools, it contracts the vent closed. You could always use a monster fan to blow your suspended lights around for a swinging mobile effect :)
 
I will certainly look into it. Hopefully it is as simple as you report, and if it has good reviews with people who have high demands, then it looks promising.

It certainly does.

6m Pieter, Luc Loyen. Jan Wilem all use it.... VERY large SPS demands.
The Jetstream2 really is small fry in comparison.

Mo
 
I think all Dastaco reactors are custom built. So I think the only way is to inquire at the emailadress of the inventor himself: atol23@hotmail.com.

Personally I don't have any experience with these reactors, but from what I've seen on multiple tanks in the Netherlands and Belgium they seem to work very well.

:thumbsup:

Mo
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top